Hakko 230V conversion

[Molybdo42]

Hello guys.

After watching the Youtube video below, I finally managed to switch my Hakko FX-888 from 110V to 230V.



I used a 50 VA toroidal transformer (Radiospares N°2237894), a 0.63 A fuse (Radiospares N°1677689) and two 3D printed parts.

Overall I am satisfied with the result. Before I was using a 110->230 voltage converter, but the iron was emitting a buzing noise and was running hot (might be because of the 50Hz). After modification the iron is completely silent and doesn't run hot anymore.

Now for the technical question :
Apparently I should have used a 90 VA transformer (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/230v-transformer-for-110v-hakko-fx-888/msg202610/#msg202610).
But when I measured the power consumption, I noticed that in order to reach the maximum temperature, the iron consumes around 60-70 W during 1 minute, then stabilizes at 20-25 W (I used a wattmeter with a slow response time, so I might need to make better measurements).
So when warmed up the power consumption is alright for my 50 VA transformer, but when warming up it is above the transformer's power rating for a short period of time. Can this damage the transformer or is it ok ?

[SeanB]

Small overloads are fine, so long as the transformer does not get too hot. Check surface temperature in operation after holding the tip on a large heatsink to draw a lot of power from the tip for about 2 minutes and if it is below the max surface temperature in the datasheet it will be fine. Measure with a probe in the middle of the hole, as this will be the hottest part with no airflow. Best is to drill out some holes in the end cheeks to allow airflow through there, and note that if the surface goes over 70C the mountings will melt.

[Molybdo42]

Nice ideas, I will modify the CAD file of the printed part and make some temperature measurements later.

I also tested the maximum power consumption at max temp while holding the iron on a small anvil (don't have any heatsink). The power consumption stabilized around 40 W, so it's still within the  transformer power rating.

[Relaxed]

It's great to see such a neat mod. Even with 3D printed parts and everything.

Do you own a 3D printer or did you order the parts?

[dannyf]

I have built a few of those, driving a Hakko handle from laptop power supplies. It can be controlled via a mcu (8pdip PIC, or bigger chips if lcd readout is needed).

For handles with a thermocouple, you need an opamp to read. Otherwise, it is just the mcu - truly a minimalist approach.

[Molybdo42]

Ok I measured the temperatures, here are the results :
- took 2H to reach a stabilized temperature at the iron's max heat ;
- measured a temperature difference of 30°C with ambient temperature ;
- the temperature inside and outside of the transformer showed only a 1°C difference, so there is no real need to modify the printed part ;
- when the tip was in contact with the anvil the temperature rose of only 2-3 °C.

In conclusion, everything seems ok, no risk in modifying the soldering iron and in normal usage the soldering iron shouldn't heat as much.

Now, depending on the ambient temperature, the stabilized temperature can get quite close of 70°C, where PLA (the plastic used for my printed part) starts to lose its shape.
So for those of you wanting to make the same thing, either print in ABS or DON'T USE THE SOLDERING IRON IN A DESERT !

It's great to see such a neat mod. Even with 3D printed parts and everything.

Do you own a 3D printer or did you order the parts?

Thanks ! I own a 650 € ghetto style 3D printer (ReprapPro Mendel Prusa). Amongst useless things I also printed : a companion cube, a Yoda ; amongst useful things : a lab jack, a file holder and a tweezers holder...

[dannyf]

Can this damage the transformer or is it ok ?

Typical transformers can deal with overloading easily. I wouldn't worry about that.

In my case, my iron will head up from cold to working condition in 10 - 15 seconds. The DC voltage drops from 19.5v to just over 16v. No ill effect whatsoever.

[nukie]

No problem with toroid inrush current blowing the fuse? What fuse rating are you using?

[nowlan]

I know these are cheaper in America, but is there a real saving to be made converting it?
Or was it just because that it buzzed.

[Molybdo42]

No problem with toroid inrush current blowing the fuse? What fuse rating are you using?

I use the fuse recommended by Hakko : 630 mA.

Just look on the pcb board soldered to the 110V transformer, they marked that
- for 250V, 630 mA fuse
- for 125V, 2 A fuse

Now I didn't put too much thought in how fast my fuse should blow, I used F FSF. I desoldered the original Hakko fuse and saw that they use <PS> ENSFFCT, what does this mean ?
Up until now my fuse held well.

I know these are cheaper in America, but is there a real saving to be made converting it?
Or was it just because that it buzzed.

In France the Hakko sell for 188 € or 254 USD ! I bought the soldering iron last year, but at current market price you can find it from ebay for around 108€ (145 USD) + transformer ~20€ (you can find cheaper) + fuse 2.1€ + fuse holder 2€ + some screws I had laying around + my 3D printed parts (you might be able to print parts for dirt cheap at some hackerspace, or be creative and use lots of glue like in the youtube video !)

Total 132.1 €, I saved 56€ (75 USD).
Not much but still worth the effort, I also learned how to swap a transformer (never played with mains).

[ivan747]

The oposite happens with this Atten hot air rework station Dave likes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-AT-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Solder-220V-/310539474247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item484d985547

Almost twice as epensive in the 120V version, if you can find one. I had been thinking of wiring a 220V outlet in my lab using the split supply the US electric grid uses (two 120V lines in opposite phases) or just getting an isolation transformer that can be wired for both 110V and 220V.

But since so far I haven't had a need for a rework station, I don't really mind.

[Molybdo42]

Hey I have the same desoldering station !

This one is special, it doesn't need a big transformer to work, I think that the heating element located in the blowing gun is directly powered by the mains (reassuring). The transformer is small and seems only used to power the regulating electronics.

I will have a look, I suggest that you open a new thread for this.

I don't know if it's useful to wire a 220V line in your lab, the 60 Hz might give you some issues. In my case, the Hakko with US transformer at 110V 50Hz gets quite hot and emits a humming noise.

And finally, trust me on this, you will need a rework station. It's quite useful to preheat PCBs when doing some soldering on double sided boards having a huge copper ground. The Hakko alone, even at full temp, wasn't able to make nice solder joints. The best solution will be to use a preheat plate, but they can be quite expensive.

[Molybdo42]

Ouch I took a closer look at the desoldering station, not very reassuring...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station/msg310610/#msg310610

Anyway, you will need a transformer able to output 10V and 24V for the control electronics and the blowing fan. It doesn't require much power so you should be able to use some low VA transformer. Read the "DEADLY WIRING FAULT" thread, some users have taken pictures of their 110V version showing the transformer.

Now where to get that transformer is another question... This case is different because you need two voltages, the Hakko needs only one.

[lpc32]

Why use a toroidal transformer and not something more compact?

What about the 50/60Hz difference?

[Zero999]

Why use a toroidal transformer and not something more compact?

Toroidal transformers take up less space than laminated transformers.

What about the 50/60Hz difference?

It doesn't matter. In fact I run a 120V Hakko from a 230V to 120V transformer at 50Hz with no problems.

[lpc32]

That's what I read about the size as well, but doesn't Hakko use a laminated transformer in their original 230V version? And seemingly the toroidals people used are slightly underrated.

Where did you get your 120V version? Some people reported hum, and if I recall also some heating, when using 60Hz versions at 50Hz. I wonder if there may be different 60Hz versions around, or randomly different transformers used.

BTW: This is the transformer in the 230V version:


(posted here: http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.ca/2013/03/hakko-fx-888d-solder-station-hi-res.html)

[Zero999]

I got my 120V Hakko from the US via ebay.

I haven't experienced any problems with hum. The case does get hot but not noticiably more than that of the other solder stations where I work which are designed to run at 50Hz.

[made2hack]

Amongst useless things I also printed : a companion cube, a Yoda ;

I am a useless thing to print not.  Never useless, printing me is.  Quite possibly, the most useful 3d print ever, I am, in the entire galaxy!  - Yoda

[lpc32]

Hero999, thanks. I might try that as well.

[Molybdo42]

I also got my soldering station from ebay via niosales.

For me, I did the transformer swap in order to have something easy to carry around.

Using your Hakko with a 230->110 transformer won't damage your soldering station, unless you leave it on for days (which isn't recommended for any kind of soldering iron).
But, if I remember well, my FX888 got hot to the touch a lot quicker when using a 230->110V transformer at 50Hz, rather than after the swap with a proper 50Hz transformer.

The lower power rating isn't an issue, because when the desired temperature is reached, the iron is only heated during short period of time.

[GingGangGooly]

Thanks ! I own a 650 € ghetto style 3D printer (ReprapPro Mendel Prusa). Amongst useless things I also printed : a companion cube, a Yoda ; amongst useful things : a lab jack, a file holder and a tweezers holder...

Does anybody know where can I get the 3D files for the lab jack, file holder and tweezer holders?
Thanks

[bneo99]

Hi, I am planning to get a Hakko FX888d US version and mod it for 240V use. Based on what I've read on a few posts about this mod I found out that people have successfully modded their station with only a 50VA toroidal transformer while the recommended is 90VA. I would like to ask a few questions just to be sure before I actually buy anything.

I chose a 80VA toroidal transformer because it's quite near the 90VA recommended and it's output is 2x12V and the VA rating is 2x40VA. So if i connect them in series I should get 24 volts at about 3.33 amps right?
Also, since the OP stated that 50VA works should I get 50VA too or should I stay closer to the recommended VA ratings? (I'm new to these AC power stuffs so I would like to be sure.)
Based on OP, a fuse @630mA is needed in the primary side. Should I get a fast blow or a slow blow fuse? Again just to be sure as I think that a fastblow would be good to protect against power surges.

I'm quite new to these AC power stuff so it would be great if someone who have experience dealing with them to explain them to me.

Links:
The toroidal transformer: http://my.element14.com/multicomp/mcta080-12/transformer-toroidal-2-x-12v-80va/dp/9532706
Datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1829278.pdf

Fuse: http://my.element14.com/multicomp/mcf05g-630ma/fuse-glass-fast-acting-630ma/dp/1123185
Datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1858542.pdf