Handheld 3d printer devices for building enclosures and supports?

[e100]

Has anyone had any luck in using things like this

to build PCB or display supports using ABS or PLA plastic?

I would be interested to know how well the molten plastic adheres to FR4 PCB material.

[wraper]

Are you even serious? It's a 3d doodling pen for artists. You cannot make anything remotely precision or functional with it.

[e100]

Are you even serious? It's a 3d doodling pen for artists. You cannot make anything remotely precision or functional with it.

I'm thinking prototype, not production use.

[wraper]

And what sort of prototype it will be? If +/- few cm of precision is ok, then maybe. And you need to be an artist with a steady hand in the first place, to make something more or less resembling what you want to do. They even say: "3d doodling experience" in the video.

[Mechatrommer]

Are you even serious? It's a 3d doodling pen for artists. You cannot make anything remotely precision or functional with it.

I'm thinking prototype, not production use.

not even close. we are struggling to get the precision on even the robotics 3 axis (normal 3d) printer. now you want to do it freehand? i can understand if you are superman...

[electr_peter]

Hand-held 3d printer for enclosures? No way, just no.
Just use normal 3D printer or make a box from paper/carton with scissors and glue or try any other reasonable technique.

[CopperCone]

i can see if being done if you coat the thing you made with epoxy later.

I have done super ghetto things like making aluminum foil molds for pouring epoxy into, coated with olive oil.. I don't see why you could not make a skeleton out of something 3d printer (hand held) and coat it with epoxy. Sounds kind of useful actually. Big time saver..

might actually be quite strong too. it will just look kinda bad and not stack well. then just weedle it into shape using a knife, file, dremel, etc. kind of like making a composite using a wicker basket.

alot better then some bullshit made out of water logged cardboard, but again if you coat cardboard with epoxy its also strongs... but this would allow very interesting geometries to be made easily without fixtures etc

the only thing I would worry about is brittleness due to age/UV.. it should be fairly dimensionally stable.. you guys are acting like he is trying to make a crank shaft for a muscle car lol

also, a benefit to using a hand held one is that you don't have fixed dimensions, only your patience and cash reserves. You could build something 12 feet long if you want.

[donotdespisethesnake]

I would be interested to know how well the molten plastic adheres to FR4 PCB material.

To FR4 or solder mask? Either way, not very well. Molten plastic doesn't stick much to anything apart from other molten plastic. It's quite difficult finding a base material for 3D printers that molten plastic will actually stick to.

I've tried using cheap FDM 3D printers for prototyping enclosures, it's very limited. Our CAD dept have started using SLS for space models, these are a lot closer in form to the injection moulded production versions. SLS printers are a lot more expensive than typical hobby printers though.

[xani]

Are you even serious? It's a 3d doodling pen for artists. You cannot make anything remotely precision or functional with it.

I'm thinking prototype, not production use.

For prototype you'd just use 3d printer.

You really do not want prototype that can't even have second iteration that is precise.

If you really want to model a case without one, hot snot and cardboard is cheapest option.

Glue or resin and plywood is also cheap way to prototype.