Author Topic: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply  (Read 39358 times)

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Offline Alex30Topic starter

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My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« on: December 15, 2014, 12:13:17 pm »
So I have pretty much finished my design for my benchtop power supply. It is loosely based on a few different supplies I have seen on this forum and Dave's eevblog tutorial. I am still fairly new to all this stuff but have tried to learn as much as I possibly can to design this. I have already mostly set up this in LTspice (minus the preregulator and one or two other things) and it seems to work okay. I have not provided the ltspice project as it is very messy and not quite the same as my drawing, but I can supply it if someone wants to see it.

I have not included any mains transforming or anything like that as I do not have the experience to mess around with mains and did not feel comfortable doing this, so I plan on powering it with an existing 16V laptop charger I have picked up.

My supply uses a tracking pre regulator to provide the linear regulators (I chose 2 x 1.5A ones because they were easier for me to get) with an appropriate voltage to regulate such that the voltage drop should only be about 1.7V. It also uses current sensing \ setting that limits the output voltage to ensure the set current isn't exceeded. In addition to this, there is an optional fuse mode that can be turned on with a switch that will use a monostable that turns off the preregulator (therefore the supply) for about 800ms if the set current is exceeded. This set current is previewed on a voltmeter.

Please excuse my drawing, I am actually a civil draftsman but I am not used to eagle or electrical drawings so I have done my best without going crazy.

Hopefully you guys will be kind enough to give me some feedback\comments\criticism. I'm sure there's a few mistakes, hopefully not so many I have to reconsider large portions of the design  |O! Cheers guys!  :-+

EDIT

Design has now been upreved, see latest post
« Last Edit: January 11, 2015, 05:28:58 am by Alex30 »
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2014, 01:24:45 pm »
would it make sense to make a 555 power inversion module to get a negative rail and enable to supply the go close to zero? i suppose this would be the 1 supply for the next few years of experiments

** edit, is a load share/balancer resistor required before/after the lm1086?

Might be a good idea as long as it's not too hard to implement. Would the best way be to invert the 10V reference and then allow the voltage set opamp (IC4A) to swing from -1.2V -> 10.8V? Then perhaps put the subsequent 2N3904 transistor to -1.2V instead of ground? Would that work? Having a negative rail should help the opamp outputs go to 0 aswell actually so it will help with the current sensing etc

I think you are probably right about the balancer resistor. Probably before the lm1086's...

EDIT
Oh and I hope this doesn't take a year haha. I plan on prototyping it over the christmas break if possible.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2014, 01:45:09 pm by Alex30 »
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2014, 02:31:27 pm »
First thought: seems awfully complex for such a simple function?

It does illustrate you have a good understanding of block level design, and putting together functions to make a complete system.

Obvious pitfalls: I haven't spotted many, so that's good.  I've spotted a few:
- The linear regulators are strapped in parallel
- The REG_ON_OFF is overdriven by IC7A.  Which it might be able to do (CD4000 outputs are pretty weak), but it's not nice.  Probably, you just need a series resistor there to make that OK, so no big deal.
- If MODE_SW is just a switch, then MONOSTABLE pin 8 will never turn on (switch closed), limited to 0.7V by T1 base-emitter.  Or it will have an undefined (hi-Z) logic level (switch open), which is bad (floating CMOS inputs!).  It should have a pull-down resistor for when the switch is open.  And, I guess, it should be connected before R28, or even better, IC7A, which is performing the same function but open loop.  Perhaps that's where D3 was intended to go, not REG_ON_OFF?  (Still with a pull-down -- the LED won't pull all the way to 0V, at least not very quickly.)

Less obvious pitfalls:
- Common mode range: does LT1013 input include positive supply rail?  I don't remember offhand.
- Also, does LT1013 input and output range include GND?
- Voltage loop should be okay.  You're setting the linear reg ADJ pin voltage, which works.  More subtle matters remain, however (see below).
- Current loop won't work.  At least, I shouldn't think so.  You've got an oscillator.  IC4B needs compensation, otherwise as soon as it goes near current limit, it will overshoot, overcompensate, and bounce around.  An R+C from out to -in is recommended there.  (But since ISET connects to other things, ISET should be buffered, then use a series resistor from the buffer to -in to set compensation with the R+C.)  This is compounded by T1, which is wired for maximum gain (and what's worse, the gain varies with operating point, so it's impossible to compensate properly, and C5, which slows down the gain node.
- On the plus side, it won't sit there and oscillate (at high frequency); if IC7A is wired to trip the monostable, then it'll overshoot once then sit around for a while.  IC7A should probably be slowed down to allow for inevitable transients -- but not grossly just because "well it only works if I put 10uF here".  If you get into that situation... reconsider a lot more of the circuit, because you're making it worse overall if you have to do that.

"wut"s:
- LM234Z current sinks?  For... so the output pulls down normally?  But why two, and why not just a dumb resistor?
- I guess D2 is intended to prevent accidental overvoltage or reversal of the output, but... it's a tiny 1/2W zener.  If that's the purpose, a bigass 1.5KE12A (or more) would be better.
- Tantalum on a rail that can be shorted out is probably not a great idea (surges make tantalum much more likely to burst into flames).  Likely, you'd be better off with a few 0.1's -- enough to keep the regulators stable, while also reducing the possible output surge -- handy if you're going to be, like, testing LEDs or something, which do not appreciate large current spikes.
- You've got a kickass reference -- REF102 is +/-2.5mV from nominal.  But it's all wasted because IC4A is looped back to the reg ADJ pins, not the output.  And the LM1086s are +/-25mV, so the fantastic reference is buried in the noise!

Not that very precise voltages are all that useful in an adjustable supply anyway: you lose the voltage accuracy as soon as you put a potentiometer on it.  But you do keep the stability and drift.

The readouts are where you need both accuracy and precision, since you're basically calibrating the output voltage to the display, every time you turn the knob.

So, you could save a few pennies by using a low accuracy but high precision ref (like, +/-1% or something bad like that, but kickass stability/drift).

- C1 is placed after the current shunt, so ALL the ripple in your 15V supply goes straight into the current sense... ahh... nasty.  Plus whatever switching noise is left from the pre-regulator!
- PN3638A is more or less setting PREREG to 0.7V above the output, but, there's no pull-down resistor, and the LM1086 says 1.5V max dropout.  The transistor also increases the regulator's loop gain, which may render it unstable.  An R+C from base to collector can help with that, but with the internal compensation on this switching regulator, there's only so much you can do.  It should really be a proper controller, the kind with the error amp pins taken outside, so you have more control over its compensation.

Nice-to-haves:
- Better current limit response time, or being able to keep it from oscillating at all.  The complete current limit loop is IC4B, T1, REG1/2, C2, C6, C7, PREREG and associated components (including its internal compensation time constant) and C1, back through IC1A.
- Input protection (you've got a diode on the output, but you're perfectly happy to place a poor, defenseless CD4047 right across a lumbering, looming 15V, 3A+ supply rail?)
- Higher efficiency -- lower shunt voltage drop, perhaps using one of those 5 terminal current sense amplifier chips instead of the op-amp requiring matched resistors?

Tim
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Offline prasimix

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2014, 04:58:36 pm »
- Higher efficiency -- lower shunt voltage drop, perhaps using one of those 5 terminal current sense amplifier chips instead of the op-amp requiring matched resistors?

I'd like to suggest shunt such as LT6118 which comes with comparator that include latch functionality that can be used for OCP (over-current protection). I tested it recently and it works nicely if you don't require programmable OCP function. If that is a case you can use shunt like LT6101 or LT6102 in combination with fast comparator such as LT1671 or LT1712 (both comes with latch functionality). I was playing previously with some TI solutions such as INA282 and INA193 but as far as I learned from testing they are inferior to mentioned LTC solution.

Offline Marco

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2014, 05:57:02 pm »
Why not just do a opamp+pass transistor regulator for the post regulator?
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2014, 11:58:27 am »
First thought: seems awfully complex for such a simple function?

It does illustrate you have a good understanding of block level design, and putting together functions to make a complete system.

Yeah mate I may have overcomplicated some things I'm sure. Just wanted all those features there so I kind of followed some design logic and adjusted it to my needs, i'm sure there's a few smarter\more efficient ways to go about things that would simplify the design, but all that comes with experience. Thanks for the comment on my design though! I have put in my comments in red.

Obvious pitfalls: I haven't spotted many, so that's good.  I've spotted a few:
- The linear regulators are strapped in parallel Yes, it's because I already have a few of the linear regulators so instead of getting an equivalent higher current reg I have just used two in parallel, I will need to add in a couple of balance resistors as per previous comment. I will probably amend this to just one reg on the final version
- The REG_ON_OFF is overdriven by IC7A.  Which it might be able to do (CD4000 outputs are pretty weak), but it's not nice.  Probably, you just need a series resistor there to make that OK, so no big deal. Yes good point
- If MODE_SW is just a switch, then MONOSTABLE pin 8 will never turn on (switch closed), limited to 0.7V by T1 base-emitter.  Or it will have an undefined (hi-Z) logic level (switch open), which is bad (floating CMOS inputs!).  It should have a pull-down resistor for when the switch is open.  And, I guess, it should be connected before R28, or even better, IC7A, which is performing the same function but open loop.  Perhaps that's where D3 was intended to go, not REG_ON_OFF?  (Still with a pull-down -- the LED won't pull all the way to 0V, at least not very quickly.) Definitely need a pull down resistor there, just missed it. Yes I actually had D3 in the wrong place, I should place it on the REG_ON_OFF just before the LED


Less obvious pitfalls:
- Common mode range: does LT1013 input include positive supply rail?  I don't remember offhand. Yes it does
- Also, does LT1013 input and output range include GND? Yes it does, but only if the negative supply rail is below ground, in LTSpice the opamp still got to about 20mV which wasn't too bad on first pass, but I have since decided I want to have a negative rail to allow the opamps to swing to ground
- Voltage loop should be okay.  You're setting the linear reg ADJ pin voltage, which works.  More subtle matters remain, however (see below).
- Current loop won't work.  At least, I shouldn't think so.  You've got an oscillator.  IC4B needs compensation, otherwise as soon as it goes near current limit, it will overshoot, overcompensate, and bounce around.  An R+C from out to -in is recommended there.  (But since ISET connects to other things, ISET should be buffered, then use a series resistor from the buffer to -in to set compensation with the R+C.)  This is compounded by T1, which is wired for maximum gain (and what's worse, the gain varies with operating point, so it's impossible to compensate properly, and C5, which slows down the gain node. I was concerned about this for my prototype and was hoping someone would comment on this. My thinking was that C5 should filter some of the noise out but still had an aching feeling it wasn't going to be enough. I'm not too sure I follow you with your buffer suggestion though, are you sure you don't mean the currentsense? Also I don't quite follow your suggested buffer layout...
- On the plus side, it won't sit there and oscillate (at high frequency); if IC7A is wired to trip the monostable, then it'll overshoot once then sit around for a while.  IC7A should probably be slowed down to allow for inevitable transients -- but not grossly just because "well it only works if I put 10uF here".  If you get into that situation... reconsider a lot more of the circuit, because you're making it worse overall if you have to do that.Yeah I thought the main thing I would need to play with would be filter caps hey, just pretty hard to tell what I need until I set up the prototype

"wut"s:
- LM234Z current sinks?  For... so the output pulls down normally?  But why two, and why not just a dumb resistor? The purpose of the sinks is that the lm1086 needs 10mA current draw to provide proper regulation, the LM234's are set to about 9mA each (10mA maximum as per datasheet). In this config my theoretical load can be 2mA (probly just lost in the wire anyway) and I will still get good regulation
- I guess D2 is intended to prevent accidental overvoltage or reversal of the output, but... it's a tiny 1/2W zener.  If that's the purpose, a bigass 1.5KE12A (or more) would be better. That's exactly why it's there, I actually deliberately picked the wrong zener because it matched the size of a larger zener I was going to use of about 5W and just forgot to change the description on the schematic, thanks for the pickup though as I may have forgotten
- Tantalum on a rail that can be shorted out is probably not a great idea (surges make tantalum much more likely to burst into flames).  Likely, you'd be better off with a few 0.1's -- enough to keep the regulators stable, while also reducing the possible output surge -- handy if you're going to be, like, testing LEDs or something, which do not appreciate large current spikes. Excellent point, would rather not turn my power supply into a fire place if I can help it! :)
- You've got a kickass reference -- REF102 is +/-2.5mV from nominal.  But it's all wasted because IC4A is looped back to the reg ADJ pins, not the output.  And the LM1086s are +/-25mV, so the fantastic reference is buried in the noise!

Not that very precise voltages are all that useful in an adjustable supply anyway: you lose the voltage accuracy as soon as you put a potentiometer on it.  But you do keep the stability and drift.

The readouts are where you need both accuracy and precision, since you're basically calibrating the output voltage to the display, every time you turn the knob.

So, you could save a few pennies by using a low accuracy but high precision ref (like, +/-1% or something bad like that, but kickass stability/drift).
Excellent point, I will investigate that

- C1 is placed after the current shunt, so ALL the ripple in your 15V supply goes straight into the current sense... ahh... nasty.  Plus whatever switching noise is left from the pre-regulator! Yes I probably should put a cap at the start. Do you think it would be better to put the current sense after the prereg? Only thing is that in the current configuration I would have to allow the prereg to track an extra volt higher, but shouldn't matter too much as the shunt resistors would dissapate the heat at higher currents
- PN3638A is more or less setting PREREG to 0.7V above the output, but, there's no pull-down resistor, and the LM1086 says 1.5V max dropout.  The transistor also increases the regulator's loop gain, which may render it unstable.  An R+C from base to collector can help with that, but with the internal compensation on this switching regulator, there's only so much you can do.  It should really be a proper controller, the kind with the error amp pins taken outside, so you have more control over its compensation. The resistors around the transistor actually set PREREG to about 1.7 volt higher than the output, I breadboarded this to get the resistors right as I wasn't sure how to calculate it

Nice-to-haves:
- Better current limit response time, or being able to keep it from oscillating at all.  The complete current limit loop is IC4B, T1, REG1/2, C2, C6, C7, PREREG and associated components (including its internal compensation time constant) and C1, back through IC1A. Yes i'm sure it will even get worse when I start to try and buffer things. I will be using my oscope and playing with some cap values  on the prototype until I'm happy
- Input protection (you've got a diode on the output, but you're perfectly happy to place a poor, defenseless CD4047 right across a lumbering, looming 15V, 3A+ supply rail?) Good point! How much effort do you thing I should go to? Would a zener and SCR crowbar with a fuse arrangement be too much considering I am using a laptop adapter? Or should I just use a zener similar to the one on the output?
- Higher efficiency -- lower shunt voltage drop, perhaps using one of those 5 terminal current sense amplifier chips instead of the op-amp requiring matched resistors? Good advice, I kind of started with the barebones opamp arrangement while I was learning, but a current sense amp would probably be a good investment to bring the voltage drop down. Perhaps I could even squeeze out an extra volt or two from the output.

Tim

Thanks very much for all those comments Tim. I just find it absolutely awesome people are willing to review my designs on here because I know how time consuming it is to go through peoples work! Really appreciate it!

Thanks for all the other comments too I will have a think about them.
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2014, 03:24:28 pm »
Yes it does, but only if the negative supply rail is below ground, in LTSpice the opamp still got to about 20mV which wasn't too bad on first pass, but I have since decided I want to have a negative rail to allow the opamps to swing to ground

Just because the simulator says it might happen, doesn't mean the model is right, and that it will always happen in practice. ;)

LM358 for example is rated for single supply operation (inputs work down to -0.3V, output will pull down to ~mV), but if you try drawing any current with the output, it won't saturate at mV, it will saturate more like 0.5V.  The actual saturation curve is kind of three-stepped, as different parts of the output stage start turning on.  The "single supply" characteristic is only true if current is very low (sub 1mA), or even negative (you can use a pull-down resistor from the output to -V, without needing to power the op-amp itself from -V as well).  The typical example is a pull-down resistor to 0V, so the output stage ideally never has to sink current at all.  Which also keeps it in class A (LM358 output stage has relatively bad crossover distortion, i.e., when output current reverses).

Subtle things like these are useful to know about op-amps.  Old parts usually came with an equivalent schematic, which gives you some ideas... if you can decipher it.  Sometimes they don't tell you anything, and you just have to guess, or suck it and see.  (Example: early MOS op-amps where output range and bandwidth depend on input common mode voltage!  Later CMOS (RRIO) amps are better behaved, but the input offset voltage changes suddenly at certain common mode voltages -- because the entire amp is actually two strapped in parallel, so when one polarity of input stage turns off from the common mode voltage, the other is still there to function.  But the transistors have slightly different offsets.)

Quote
I was concerned about this for my prototype and was hoping someone would comment on this. My thinking was that C5 should filter some of the noise out but still had an aching feeling it wasn't going to be enough. I'm not too sure I follow you with your buffer suggestion though, are you sure you don't mean the currentsense? Also I don't quite follow your suggested buffer layout...

I mean, since you'll have an R+C feedback, the ISET voltage will be disturbed by it (namely, the input into the "op-amp plus feedback" looks like a virtual ground at high frequencies).  The compensation will also depend on how much resistance is on the ISET node.  Putting a voltage follower after ISET and before the amp isolates this, and lets you set a fixed series resistance.

Quote
The purpose of the sinks is that the lm1086 needs 10mA current draw to provide proper regulation, the LM234's are set to about 9mA each (10mA maximum as per datasheet). In this config my theoretical load can be 2mA (probly just lost in the wire anyway) and I will still get good regulation

A BJT current sink would be fine -- easy enough to set for 20mA (plus temp range), no need for a regulated current ref.

Or if you'll be using a negative supply, a resistor wouldn't be terrifically bad.  It will draw a bit more current at full output, which you need to be able to sink through that negative rail.

Quote
Yes I probably should put a cap at the start. Do you think it would be better to put the current sense after the prereg? Only thing is that in the current configuration I would have to allow the prereg to track an extra volt higher, but shouldn't matter too much as the shunt resistors would dissapate the heat at higher currents

Yes, I would suggest putting it at the output.  The voltage drop shows up after the regulators, but you aren't really using them to regulate, anyway.  You're using them as followers with a stable offset voltage (namely, Vo = Vin + 1.25V or whatever).

Which, since you're just doing that, you might as well kill two or three birds with one stone:
- Drop the regs, go with regular power BJTs instead (TIP31 or better?)
- Which has crappy offset (Vbe, which depends on load and temp), but
- low dropout (you can drive base voltage up to 0.7V above collector voltage -- dropout is limited by Vce(sat) alone!)

The offset is bad, so you need feedback from the output anyway.  But you want that regardless, because you're already wasting the REF accuracy with the REG error -- and, obviously, if you put the current sense at the output, it directly ruins the output resistance.  So you need feedback after that, anyway.

So you'd change IC4A feedback from the ADJ node to the output, with a little compensation, and... some other things, such as to implement the current limit safely.

You still want the series resistor R24 from IC4A output to follower input (was ADJ, now the power transistor bases), to limit base current (and to a looser extent, collector current) and allow the op-amp some freedom from the BJT capacitance.

Depending on ratings and all, you may want several BJTs in parallel.  Usually with current-sharing emitter resistors.  But base resistors may be necessary to prevent oscillation.  You may also need additional current, usually a Darlington strapped configuration -- but, you don't need to source that voltage from the preregulator (which would waste your low dropout) -- you can draw that from the primary supply.

Quote
The resistors around the transistor actually set PREREG to about 1.7 volt higher than the output, I breadboarded this to get the resistors right as I wasn't sure how to calculate it

Probably because it's in a beta or device dependent manner.  In any event, the feedback pin must have a pulldown, because the pin is something like an op-amp input -- high impedance.  (If the SPICE model didn't capture this... well...)

Quote
- Input protection (you've got a diode on the output, but you're perfectly happy to place a poor, defenseless CD4047 right across a lumbering, looming 15V, 3A+ supply rail?) Good point! How much effort do you thing I should go to? Would a zener and SCR crowbar with a fuse arrangement be too much considering I am using a laptop adapter? Or should I just use a zener similar to the one on the output?

If the adapter is permanently connected, probably not a big deal.  But if it's hot plugged and stuff, it's going to see all sorts of nasty transients.  I once lost a laptop motherboard to, as far as I know, an intermittent short in the adapter cable.  Probably a combination of things: the transient itself causing severe undershoot and large peak reverse currents, and the power management circuitry not responding fast enough to disconnect the battery from the charger (remember, just because it works at DC, doesn't mean it will work at all, or not explode under unusual conditions!).

So, it's better simply not to -- if you can arrange, say, a low voltage rail to handle the logic supply, then that isolates the pansy chips from the mean old outside world.   You also get a nice and clean rail to run the REF from, so it's even cleaner.

It would also be nice to run the op-amps from such a supply, but you may not have the opportunity to (i.e., you need to drive the output follower with a voltage range that covers most of the supply range).  That said, you can use an analog level shifter or gain stage to accommodate wider ranges from lower voltage op-amps.  So there are many ways to attack it, depending on how fancy you want to get.

With the extra regulators, you can then do a couple things: extended supply range (maybe it's good up to 30V instead of 18), put on a very reasonable value TVS (18-24V rating is good for a circuit rated 30-36V abs. max. -- it should survive, say, distant lightning with that protection!*), and maybe even overvoltage or reverse protection (good for automotive use?!).

*There's not really a good working example for this, since the adapter takes the brunt of lightning on AC mains, and probably just blows up under that kind of stress (without making much trouble at the output itself).  The working example would be, you have the 18VDC (or whatever) connected through a few hundred feet of wiring, say if you routed it through a house for... who knows why.  So nearby lightning causes EMP causes induction in the cable = transients into the thing.  Telecoms are a better example (36-72VDC routed through large exchanges and such?), but obviously not the use-case here.

But yeah, just a TVS at the input should be fine to keep things safe under most conditions, as long as everything connected to the rail is safe to run at those voltages (30-36 say).  You may then need a level translator to use the CMOS with the rest of the circuit... though I guess you only have it running LEDs and little switches, so that won't actually be a problem at all here, and is actually very handy.

Tim
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Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 1.25-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2014, 11:48:52 am »
this is a crude portion of the charge pump negative rail supply. 555 used as charge pump, fed to 7905. give -5v. i used the 3v3 zener to further "complicate things" to -3v3 ... practically im not sure if the 7905 alone have enough ripple rejection to bring down the charge pump ripple to a low level. then again, im also not sure what kind of low ripple is attainable or should be expected, and so therefore ... the 3v3 zener + additional smoothing caps. maybe precision voltage regulator have better ripple rejection  :-// ? or maybe a super large bypass cap? so in fact, what the neg reference rail here is trying to be is as flat or dead in noise as possible. maybe some of you have better ideas :P

btw i like the pre-reg section ... i have a spare LM2599 somewhere .... (stuck on a breadboard). i think it will address the problem of excessive heat dropped from normal linear regulation just by chucking it the full voltage. i am also mucking around with a linear PSU ... and i kept thinking of what to do to put in the LM2599 to good use. PRE-REG !

Yeah I will probably just end up using two 12V regulators, one inverting to get clean +12 -12 for my opamps as per below.

Thanks yeah, linear regulators get pretty useless when you are trying to drop several volts at anything more than an amp. You end up wasting power and having huge heat sinks.

Just because the simulator says it might happen, doesn't mean the model is right, and that it will always happen in practice. ;)

LM358 for example is rated for single supply operation (inputs work down to -0.3V, output will pull down to ~mV), but if you try drawing any current with the output, it won't saturate at mV, it will saturate more like 0.5V.  The actual saturation curve is kind of three-stepped, as different parts of the output stage start turning on.  The "single supply" characteristic is only true if current is very low (sub 1mA), or even negative (you can use a pull-down resistor from the output to -V, without needing to power the op-amp itself from -V as well).  The typical example is a pull-down resistor to 0V, so the output stage ideally never has to sink current at all.  Which also keeps it in class A (LM358 output stage has relatively bad crossover distortion, i.e., when output current reverses).

Subtle things like these are useful to know about op-amps.  Old parts usually came with an equivalent schematic, which gives you some ideas... if you can decipher it.  Sometimes they don't tell you anything, and you just have to guess, or suck it and see.  (Example: early MOS op-amps where output range and bandwidth depend on input common mode voltage!  Later CMOS (RRIO) amps are better behaved, but the input offset voltage changes suddenly at certain common mode voltages -- because the entire amp is actually two strapped in parallel, so when one polarity of input stage turns off from the common mode voltage, the other is still there to function.  But the transistors have slightly different offsets.)

Yeah lol I know that LTSpice doesn't offer very good simulation of opamps. But thanks for the explanation there it was interesting.

I mean, since you'll have an R+C feedback, the ISET voltage will be disturbed by it (namely, the input into the "op-amp plus feedback" looks like a virtual ground at high frequencies).  The compensation will also depend on how much resistance is on the ISET node.  Putting a voltage follower after ISET and before the amp isolates this, and lets you set a fixed series resistance.

Yes that is very true. I was wondering, can I use the negative input of IC7B (just before the 10K resistor) as a voltage follower or do I need a dedicated opamp for this? Also with the RC filtering, what would the purpose be of filtering ISET if I have already buffered it with a voltage follower? Are you sure you do not mean to filter CURRENTSENSE? If that is the case what sort of cut off frequency would be typical of such an application?

A BJT current sink would be fine -- easy enough to set for 20mA (plus temp range), no need for a regulated current ref.

Or if you'll be using a negative supply, a resistor wouldn't be terrifically bad.  It will draw a bit more current at full output, which you need to be able to sink through that negative rail.

Yeah I might just do that, good idea. I was just thinking too hard I think :)

Yes, I would suggest putting it at the output.  The voltage drop shows up after the regulators, but you aren't really using them to regulate, anyway.  You're using them as followers with a stable offset voltage (namely, Vo = Vin + 1.25V or whatever).

Which, since you're just doing that, you might as well kill two or three birds with one stone:
- Drop the regs, go with regular power BJTs instead (TIP31 or better?)
- Which has crappy offset (Vbe, which depends on load and temp), but
- low dropout (you can drive base voltage up to 0.7V above collector voltage -- dropout is limited by Vce(sat) alone!)

The offset is bad, so you need feedback from the output anyway.  But you want that regardless, because you're already wasting the REF accuracy with the REG error -- and, obviously, if you put the current sense at the output, it directly ruins the output resistance.  So you need feedback after that, anyway.

So you'd change IC4A feedback from the ADJ node to the output, with a little compensation, and... some other things, such as to implement the current limit safely.

You still want the series resistor R24 from IC4A output to follower input (was ADJ, now the power transistor bases), to limit base current (and to a looser extent, collector current) and allow the op-amp some freedom from the BJT capacitance.

Depending on ratings and all, you may want several BJTs in parallel.  Usually with current-sharing emitter resistors.  But base resistors may be necessary to prevent oscillation.  You may also need additional current, usually a Darlington strapped configuration -- but, you don't need to source that voltage from the preregulator (which would waste your low dropout) -- you can draw that from the primary supply.

Hmm you do offer an interesting perspective there but I sort of disagree. Just to clarify on my original comment though, I was asking whether I should put the shunt between the prereg and the linear regs, not after the linear regs. This is why I would have to increase the voltage following as I would expect some dropout at full load over the shunt.

Just a little confused by your comment though as I am not using the regs as voltage followers, I am using them as regulators and just driving the voltage adjust separately (by using a good voltage reference). If you mean dropping the prereg completely, i'm not entirely convinced. IMO using a switching regulator is just more efficient than using a bunch of transistors with cost and simplicity.

Probably because it's in a beta or device dependent manner.  In any event, the feedback pin must have a pulldown, because the pin is something like an op-amp input -- high impedance.  (If the SPICE model didn't capture this... well...)

?? I meant I physically breadboarded the prereg circuit to make sure it was working right. But yeah I actually did miss a pull down resistor in my schematic, I had one on my breadboard though :)

If the adapter is permanently connected, probably not a big deal.  But if it's hot plugged and stuff, it's going to see all sorts of nasty transients.  I once lost a laptop motherboard to, as far as I know, an intermittent short in the adapter cable.  Probably a combination of things: the transient itself causing severe undershoot and large peak reverse currents, and the power management circuitry not responding fast enough to disconnect the battery from the charger (remember, just because it works at DC, doesn't mean it will work at all, or not explode under unusual conditions!).

So, it's better simply not to -- if you can arrange, say, a low voltage rail to handle the logic supply, then that isolates the pansy chips from the mean old outside world.   You also get a nice and clean rail to run the REF from, so it's even cleaner.

It would also be nice to run the op-amps from such a supply, but you may not have the opportunity to (i.e., you need to drive the output follower with a voltage range that covers most of the supply range).  That said, you can use an analog level shifter or gain stage to accommodate wider ranges from lower voltage op-amps.  So there are many ways to attack it, depending on how fancy you want to get.

With the extra regulators, you can then do a couple things: extended supply range (maybe it's good up to 30V instead of 18), put on a very reasonable value TVS (18-24V rating is good for a circuit rated 30-36V abs. max. -- it should survive, say, distant lightning with that protection!*), and maybe even overvoltage or reverse protection (good for automotive use?!).

*There's not really a good working example for this, since the adapter takes the brunt of lightning on AC mains, and probably just blows up under that kind of stress (without making much trouble at the output itself).  The working example would be, you have the 18VDC (or whatever) connected through a few hundred feet of wiring, say if you routed it through a house for... who knows why.  So nearby lightning causes EMP causes induction in the cable = transients into the thing.  Telecoms are a better example (36-72VDC routed through large exchanges and such?), but obviously not the use-case here.

But yeah, just a TVS at the input should be fine to keep things safe under most conditions, as long as everything connected to the rail is safe to run at those voltages (30-36 say).  You may then need a level translator to use the CMOS with the rest of the circuit... though I guess you only have it running LEDs and little switches, so that won't actually be a problem at all here, and is actually very handy.

Tim

Good suggestions. That does give me a few ideas. Perhaps I could use a couple of 12V regs for +/- 12V for my opamps and monostable and get an extra couple of opamps and then use those with my pots instead of voltage dividers, that way I have buffered my ISET and VSET signals. I won't need the full +/-15V swing anymore anyway as I will be replacing the current sense shunt and opamp with an IC.

Yeah sticking a TVS at the input sounds like about as much effort as I would have expected I'd need. Nice to have as you said.

Looks like it's back to the drawing board as they say. I will need to overhaul a few things, but it will be worth it. New prototype deadline: end of feb :) I should get the new drawing done before christmas though so I will check back in with that before I start. Cheers mate
« Last Edit: December 17, 2014, 12:00:49 pm by Alex30 »
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2014, 11:39:13 am »
So I got a little bit addicted to getting this design sorted and have a new revision. I have addressed a number of comments from Tim (T3sl4co1l) and improved others. Changes are as follows

-Added a negative rail to allow supply to go down to near 0V. (Decided to just aadd another lm2596 to get the negative rail)
-Added RC oscillation suppression on comparators (thanks Tim my simulator really showed me the benefits of this)
-Changed the way current limiting is applied so that the opamp input is pulled down to -0.6V, this improved noise reduction.
-Changed the current sensing to use a shunt comparator (unfortunately I could only find an SMD package, I wanted to hand solder and etch everything so I will just have to put up with this)
-Added a TVS protection diode and 15V rail for low current parts, this should offer some protection against overvoltage.
-Removed monostable, realized that the On\Off pin on the lm2596 could just be run by a simple RC circuit. But had to remove the LED signal from this as I couldn't think of a simple way of making the LED turn on during this time without over complicating things. Hopefully the On\Off time of ~10-20ms on, to 150-400ms off is enough to flash the LED visibly as this loop occurs.
-Decided to just get a single linear voltage ref instead of using ones in my bin as they aren't that expensive and worth the money for the amount of time I've sunk into this project.
-Added a number of probing points to attach a multimeter and oscilloscope.
-Added plug for a freq gen, this will allow me to use my analog oscilloscope to probe the turn on transient time and the current limiting transient time. The freq gen will change the current limit to 3A to 0A over and over.
-A few other improvements


Few that took me a while, had to create a couple of parts in eagle as well for this. Also got confused over negative voltages for T1 NPN but got that all sussed now which is why I needed D4 and D5.

Looking forward to comments and suggestions as always! :)
« Last Edit: December 22, 2014, 11:49:07 am by Alex30 »
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2014, 05:26:09 pm »
It's so slow!  I'm cryin' here! :P

It would be so much faster if you...
- Dump C14, C15, C9 entirely, possibly C10 as well (or reduced value)
- Reduce the R+Cs until the step response is critically damped, or as reasonable as you can get.  (Test with a step superimposed on VSET, then ISET, then a stepped load resistor too, enough such that it operates in pure voltage mode, pure current mode, or transitions between the two -- the latter being the worst offender.  Don't forget to test over a range of operating points, because things often speed up or slow down at different voltages and currents.)
- LM350A is still +/-25mV, so your regulation is relatively poor (I don't see feedback from the output -- which, if you do that, you get < mV error for one, and can use cheap BJTs instead of LM350 for another)
- The -0.7V node (not really a supply) is squishy.  To the tune of 6-7kohms squishy.  If T1 turns on hard, it's going to be a lot higher than -0.7V.  Which matters, because 10KPOT2 references it.  The LM4040Z is also lower precision than REF01HP, however this is actually fine because 0.7V is a small enough part of 10V that it won't upset things too much.  It is being used as an offset, which means it's more sensitive to variations in the -0.7V node when set to low output voltages.  To have -0.7V be a supply, it needs to be buffered with a voltage follower.
- The current sense will be incredibly slow: everything in this circuit is geared towards miliseconds, but current sense also has to slew from -6V in cutoff, all the way up to... wherever it kicks in, somewhere around 0.5-1.0V at IC2B output.  The sudden transition is also hard to compensate (gain changes nearly instantly, from "ain't doin shit" to "oh holy crap that just collapsed the output, sorry about that").

Actually, on closer inspection, ISET is buffered (yay!), but there's no series resistor between ISET and IC2B, so the compensation R+C will do just about nothing!

- Also, it still looks weird that you're taking an apparently logic level output from IC2B, when it's wired for linear operation, when IC1A is wired as a comparator, and it's just blinking an LED.
- T3 doesn't seem to be biased at a useful voltage or current..?  Usually the emitter resistor is quite small, and the base is biased for a couple volts.
- The zener reglated 15V supply is, uh, interesting, but wasteful if the input is ever more than 16V.  Maybe better with an LDO?
- Also, there's no such thing as a 15KE13.6.  The next closest in the 1.5KE series are 12 or 15V (suffix A = unidirectional, CA = bidirectional).  Speaking of, D7 looks fine, but it probably shouldn't be bidirectional.  Maybe bigger, just so it's the same size as D10?  I like the symmetry, but maybe you don't need much in either position if you don't know what to protect against.


So... not at all optimized, or even considered really, for speed.  Given the ~25mV error of the LM350A, it is DC correct, and if it's AC-stable, then it's usable.  (Ding ding ding, we have a winner?)

The reason I harp on speed is because: by reducing gain EVERYWHERE, you're completely throwing away every opportunity, that the circuit just gives you, to improve performance.  As a result, the AC output impedance suffers.  It can be that much stiffer at frequencies up to the roll-off frequency, but now you're depending on capacitors to get that impedance down (namely, C10, which doesn't have a current limit circuit, either).

In my opinion at least, the ideal regulator is one which requires no output filter capacitors at all: it's fast enough, and stable enough, that no matter what load you attach, it remains rock solid and steady.  It's also easier to current limit such a circuit, because you don't have a big old capacitor sitting across the output rail.

Engineering being the art of optimization, the goal should always be to pick component values that are in some way optimal.  The part about speed that bothers me is, all the capacitor values chosen here were chosen arbitrarily.  If they were chosen optimally, they would give time constants comparable to the devices they serve: the LM350A (which should be 1~10us kind of range I think?), the LM2596 (~1ms?), and so on.  The exact values are controlled by how the loops interact, so that even though, say, IC2B is needs to be stable by itself (which may be quite fast), it needs to cooperate with everything around it (IC2A plus the LM350A).  The combination of elements is what sets the transfer function poles: the loop speed and damping factor.

The ways in which things are optimal varies, just as, in a painting, the optimal positions for brush strokes varies with the underlying sketch and the image that has been built up so far.  You can very easily engineer your way into a corner, where you have no choice but to sacrifice performance for stability, or something like that.  Even on that level, you can still do well: a circuit can be optimal in component values and such, while not necessarily being very good overall.  "It's something!"  Of course, as with the master painter, the master engineer is able to recognize the limitations of certain approaches, and is able to select a much more suitable sketch to build upon, then bring it to completion with a beautifully optimized design.

Tim
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Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2014, 10:27:06 am »
Thanks Tim. Excellent suggestions as always. This project has been such a great learning experience for me so far but I have struggled with optimisation a lot. I have mainly been using LTspice and just playing with values until it looks right to be honest. I suppose that can be a good way to tweak things but not make significant change so I do appreciate your input regarding design changes.

I am pretty happy to make all the changes in your first paragraph.  I plan on redoing my LTSpice sim at this revision (C) to give you some pretty graphs. Only problem is I don't have LTSpice models for most parts on here so it will be an approximation at best.

Not sure what you mean with IC2B as it is still wired as a comparator, just has a bit of buffering there. Do you mean making the mode_sw attach to IC1A? Why would I do this? Not sure on the benefits here? T3 was designed to consume 5mA which was the spec for LM350, but I agree with you that the voltage should be lower to allow it to function over a wider voltage range. LDO sounds good. Regarding D10, yes that was an error on my part I meant to specify 1.5KE15 thanks and yeah good point about D7.

Good insight again in your last section. I guess I am still unable to fully identify optimisation opportunities, but I am definitely learning. I was also unsure about how far I could get this optimised? Like what would be a good transient time for start up or current limiting in your opinion given my design approach?

Thanks.
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2014, 11:13:58 am »
Limiting time constants will be the switcher, and either the linear regulator, or whatever's driving it (the latter if BJTs are used instead).  More generally, the pass device (whether reg or BJT).

For small step changes in VSET, the error amp and pass device are able to work within some headroom, so the response time of the switcher doesn't matter.

For slightly larger steps in VSET (over a volt, rising), the output saturates and we must wait for the switcher to catch up.  An acceptable sacrifice, in exchange for efficiency.

Falling steps are not limited by the switcher (the pass device is just making more and more headroom for itself before the switcher catches up), but the slew rate will be limited by output capacitance and load resistance or current.  For a very agile output, you might attempt to minimize or eliminate the output capacitance, and/or provide more sinking capability (something beefier than a 2N3904 pulldown -- you can even build a full complementary push-pull output stage, just like an audio amplifier -- which is simply a bidirectional voltage regulator with specified bandwidth).

BJTs can be pushed quite fast, but you need a lot of push to make them move near a fraction of f_T.  Realistically, over 100kHz bandwidth is pretty easy to achieve, and a few MHz isn't unreasonable.  It does get harder to stabilize an amp that fast, especially in the presence of complex, low impedance loads (inevitably, you're going to be connecting series wiring inductance plus parallel bypass capacitance to the output of this thing -- you don't want it to start singing on a load like that!).  So again, a reasonable sacrifice would be a more modest circuit, that's fast enough, without pushing it to "bleeding fast", or having to worry too much about oscillation and stuff.

Which is also reasonable for the op-amps.  I forget LT1013 specs, but even something like an LM358 would be sufficient (though you'd want a part with lower Vos and higher gain, so as not to spoil the REF's excellent drift characteristics).  That has a GBW (~= same thing as f_T) of a few MHz, more than enough to push around BJTs in the 100s of kHz range.  If you use plain ol' power transistors (generally low hFE), you'll need a driver stage between them and the op-amp output (usually another follower with a smaller transistor).  You can also use pre-made Darlington types, but the saturation (aka dropout) voltage is a little higher.

General rule of thumb: you can stack, and stabilize, multiple control loops around each other, if they're a reasonable factor different in frequency response.  If the cutoff frequencies overlap too much, the phase shifts conspire to give you an oscillator.  So, you want 3MHz+ amps set for a 1MHz roll off, used as part of a control loop with 300kHz bandwidth, and so on.  Your bandwidth limits external to the amp include the current sense circuit, BJT capacitance, current error amp response / slew time, and so on.

Corollary: if you need low distortion or low error from the error amplifier, within a certain time frame, it needs more gain at the frequencies corresponding to that time.  Since gain drops as -20dB/dec on dominant-pole compensated voltage op-amps (i.e., the garden variety op-amp), it's very easy to predict how much loop gain you have at some frequency (or time frame), and therefore how much error will be left at that frequency.

So, a 3MHz amp might work in a 300kHz BW loop, but the distortion will only be corrected to 10% of its open-loop value; if you need below 1%, you need GBW > 300MHz(!) (which probably isn't even practical, because you're still limited by the speed of everything around it), or you have to wait 100 times longer (= test at 3kHz) for the error to stabilize.  Error simply means any non-ideality in what the error amp is amplifying, so in this case, loop gain limits output impedance.  That's why it's important to have a fast circuit: you get more precision sooner.  But it's also important to start with an inherently low impedance circuit, so the error amp has less to deal with.  This is why emitter followers are preferred over LDO type (PNP collector, etc.) configurations in power supplies such as these.

Because your current loop is outside the voltage loop, it will have to be compensated for both itself, and the inner (voltage) loop, and the response time of the INA current amplifier device.  So, all the more reason to keep everything fast if you can -- the current limit will be the slowest to kick in.

Tim
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Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2014, 12:24:14 pm »
You kind of just blew my mind there haha. But I think I understand what you mean. Definitely given me things to think about but I will struggle to enact them. I do appreciate the comment though I will go through what you said and try and build and learn from it.
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #13 on: December 24, 2014, 12:52:07 am »
Now you're getting into two custom things: capacity and feedback.  I would suggest using a more general part, like a controller chip, plus high side driver and external NMOS switch.  Instead of sending VSET to it, use either VSET + 1V or so (introducing the offset somehow), or VOUTPUT + 1V (same idea).

Which one you use doesn't really matter in steady state, or dynamically, because the switcher will be much slower, so we're always going to be waiting for it to play catch-up.  VOUTPUT would be better depending on how the current limit is introduced -- if you do it by pulling down on the VSET, then that signal is pretty much the same as the output anyway.

You can't simply wire VOUTPUT to FB, because VOUTPUT is very specifically isolated from what the controller is doing -- that's the point of the postreg.  The reg chip needs to know what its output is doing.  Or to put it another way, FB is a high gain input, it goes from full off to full on over a span of just a few millivolts.

You can't connect regulators in parallel, but some controllers offer scalable operation.  Two main methods: One, using a controller with enough output phases to handle the current (usually with outboard switches).  Two, use current mode controllers, with feedback to each of their current outputs, and run all of them from a single error amp.  The converters are transconductance stages (voltage in, current out).

Tim
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Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2014, 03:43:35 am »
i have a question about the pre-reg. the sense FB input that is retrieving "V" information from the final output rail, would it make sense to just use a low voltage zener on it? (and add a small bypass cap? 10nF?) instead of the transistor? or maybe even a series of in914 to get maybe even 1.8v-2.5v of difference ?

FB pin ---- |>|---------- (output rail) ----||---- GND

and if in order to get a peak current output of say 10A, are these suitable for parallel operation?

Yeah as Tim said, the point of using a transistor is to isolate the prereg from the rest of the regulated circuit. I would advise against using that configuration for this purpose. Plus why would you? Using a PNP and 3 resistors is cheap.

Using regs in parallel is usually not a good idea but I have seen it done before in other designs and even in a datasheet... here http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317.pdf . Although the LM317 isn't a switching regulator like the LM2596. I wouldn't say you couldn't do it, but ideally you would use a different switching reg that can handle the current. Do a few experiments and see how it goes. In my breadboard when I was playing around with ideas I was using 2 linear regs in parallel and it seemed to be fine, but again they weren't switching regs.

EDIT

Oh and I was going to say. I'm taking a few days off working on the design over christmas so I won't have the next revision done for at least a week to a week and a half.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2014, 03:47:10 am by Alex30 »
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #15 on: December 29, 2014, 01:02:48 pm »
Well I managed to beat my own deadline again and ready to show you rev C :) As promised, I have also fixed up the LTSpice model and got it fairly organised. As always there are a few missing components in ltspice so I have substituted as best as I can and flat out excluded the preregulator section (which shouldn't matter too much as the only time that will slow things down is when the voltage is increased so i'm not concerned about that). I have attached this model so it can shed some light on my design if you want to check things out.

There are quite a lot of changes but some of them are:
1. Optimised the capacitor layout and values to achieve between 1-1.5ms reaction time to current limiting
2. Substituted the linear regulator with a BJT, removing the need for IC2A to swing to negative voltages, still required a negative voltage rail to allow my expensive 20 turn bourns 10k pots to set vset and iset to 0.
3. Removed several trim pots to remove noise here and there
4. Added 15V low drop out regulator for 15V supply. I have included a pmos to delay the turn on of this due to lots of overshooting during initial startup.
5. Removed the need for an ammeter and instead included an extra opamp to allow the current to be displayed using existing currentsense with a voltmeter. This will reduce any impedance due to using a cheap ammeter.

The reason why I have not reduced capacitor values any further is I did some experimentation with capacitive loads which resulted in the current sense ringing like crazy. I have since fixed this by changing to the capacitor values shown, however this is my main driving force behind not wanting to reduce capacitor values any further.

I have attached several screen captures of the voltage transients at the output. In all the pictures the line marked 'short_circuit' is basically a transistor turning on with a small value resistor on the collector, therefore changing the current draw and forcing the current limiting to kick in. The reason why I have changed to using this method instead of pulsing the iset is because iset is buffered and I found more realistic results could be achieved by using this new method.

The first picture shows the current limiting kicking in when the resistor associated with the 'short circuit' transistor is at 0.1 ohms. The first knee at the top of the curve is due to the sudden current draw which causes a slight voltage drop, there is a small amount of recovery on this knee before IC2B kicks in and collapses the output. All in all the load experiences high current for a total of about 0.5ms.

The second picture shows current limiting kicking in when the resistor on the 'short circuit' transistor is about 4 ohms.  Again there is a knee at the top of the curve due to the current draw. The is a bit of undershoot from about 16.1-16.4ms  which maxes at about 300mv on this occasion. The entire response takes about 1.5ms. The only way I could reduce the undershoot is by increasing C3 or C9, which increased the overall overcurrent response to about 2-2.5ms. I figured that an undervoltage lasting about half a millisecond was reasonable, not sure if others will disagree though.

As previously mentioned I had some trouble with the initial power on. The main problem was that if the power supply was started on current limiting mode there was quite a long time (20ms) until the current limiting kicked in. This was due to the delay due to capacitors charging and etc i think. So I added the pmos (Q2) to delay the startup of the 15V supply until about 30ms in to the initial power on. Additionally I have soft started the 10V reference, as there was significant overshoot from this. Picture 3 shows the supply being turned on in current limiting mode which takes significantly longer than normal for the voltage to ramp up (8ms). There is some bouncing around until it settles out but at least it doesn't ramp up to several volts higher than it should. Picture 4 shows the supply being turned on without any current limiting being required, however there is a slow down due to the soft start of the 10V reference. This again, takes about 6-7ms to turn on.

After this initial power on the voltage is able to rise quite quickly after the short circuit is removed as shown in picture 5. After doing some testing at various voltages there is sometimes overshoot of about 100mv for 0.2ms which again I think is reasonable.

Looking forward to comments and suggestions as so far I have really appreciated the help.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2014, 03:58:42 pm by Alex30 »
 

Offline Kevin.D

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #16 on: December 30, 2014, 10:11:15 pm »
Hi Alex .
 I don't see any feedback for your V cntrl loop, so it will change with load current. Feedback was internally provided when you used 3 legged reg's ,  but with discreet pass elements you need feedback .
The other circuit problems aside though, probably the best tip I can give you would be to stop breaking your schematics into little jigsaw pieces . These types are terrible to read  and you'd probably get much more reply's if readers didn't have to do a jigsaw puzzle/match the labels puzzle first in order to read your schematics.  :)
 Best Regards
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #17 on: December 31, 2014, 04:57:20 am »
Hi Alex .
 I don't see any feedback for your V cntrl loop, so it will change with load current. Feedback was internally provided when you used 3 legged reg's ,  but with discreet pass elements you need feedback .
The other circuit problems aside though, probably the best tip I can give you would be to stop breaking your schematics into little jigsaw pieces . These types are terrible to read  and you'd probably get much more reply's if readers didn't have to do a jigsaw puzzle/match the labels puzzle first in order to read your schematics.  :)
 Best Regards

Thanks for the reply Kevin. Yes now that you mention it it was something that I have been meaning to add, thanks for reminding me!

I will certainly change the layout of the schematic. I guess it's a habit I have picked up due to my drafting job where I do a lot of pipeline detailing, although breaking up a pipeline schematic is not something you would normally do either. I have seen some electrical schematics that are broken up into certain buses, but usually I have just seen the VCC, VSS etc broken into flag type connections. If I just make say, the voltage supply (15V, 16V) and ground broken up into flag type connections would that be a logical approach to drafting this?

Cheers.
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #18 on: December 31, 2014, 10:53:29 am »
How's this one look?
« Last Edit: December 31, 2014, 10:55:07 am by Alex30 »
 

Offline prasimix

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #19 on: December 31, 2014, 11:07:46 am »
Much much better  :-+. I don't know what EDA you are using but if it supports multiple layer in schematics then I'd like to suggest that all what is not really required for discussion (such as bunch of "probe point"!) to move into separate layer that will not be visible in version which you'll post here.

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #20 on: December 31, 2014, 11:46:40 am »
Much much better  :-+. I don't know what EDA you are using but if it supports multiple layer in schematics then I'd like to suggest that all what is not really required for discussion (such as bunch of "probe point"!) to move into separate layer that will not be visible in version which you'll post here.

Thanks! Starting to get used to electrical drafting! :)

I am using eagle and I should be able to do that. Will have a go for the next revision.
 

Offline prasimix

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #21 on: December 31, 2014, 01:00:31 pm »
I am using eagle and I should be able to do that. Will have a go for the next revision.

Yes, go to Display/Hide layers and add a new one (eagle_display2.png). Use that layer with component/text which you'd like to keep private (eagle_properties.png).


Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2015, 12:27:17 pm »
Okay so I have just made a few fixes to my design. One of the things was that the old differential amplifier for current sensing fell out of spec at low currents. I have now changed to a different device for this (AD8418A). Quite a nice differential amplifier, just a little expensive but it was the only one that RS would sell one unit of that met my needs.

I have also made a few fixes here and there and changed the trimming behavior for the displays so that it is possible to get them to display 0A for the ammeter and ISET even though the supply is consuming some power in the current sink.

I also picked up 2 of these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390727749972?var=660192233360&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

I will display my output voltage and current on this. I know my current measurement will probably only be accurate to 0.001A but I thought I may as well use a 5 digit display just because 2 of these things next to each other would look pretty cool. For the ISET display I am just using a 3 digit display as I don't think there's any point in even trying to see if I can set the current limit to less than 5mA accuracy simply I don't think it will work based on the tolerances of the components and I really don't see the point anyway.

I will start to design the board now I think. I prefer to etch my own boards using toner transfer so my submission probably won't be sufficient to send to a manufacturing place, but it will certainly be enough for my needs. Perhaps I will supply the eagle project after I am finished and have everything tweaked so that others can use my design if they want.

Oh and I suspect I will be lowering C9 at some stage for better current limiting response, but I will be playing with this value on the prototype and see how low it can go.

PS
Couldn't get eagle to hide the probing points I put in. Seems like at least with the version I have, I can't place components on any other layer than symbols. Same goes for the nets.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2015, 12:37:19 pm by Alex30 »
 

Offline electr_peter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2015, 12:58:57 pm »
I also picked up 2 of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390727749972?var=660192233360&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

I will display my output voltage and current on this. I know my current measurement will probably only be accurate to 0.001A but I thought I may as well use a 5 digit display just because 2 of these things next to each other would look pretty cool. For the ISET display I am just using a 3 digit display as I don't think there's any point in even trying to see if I can set the current limit to less than 5mA accuracy simply I don't think it will work based on the tolerances of the components and I really don't see the point anyway.
How will you provide power for panel meters? These meters require isolated supply to provide accurate reading.
I also plan to use such type of panel meters with 2 isolated supplies for my PS. I chose those because of a bit higher claimed accuracy (resolution is a bit bogus I suspect) -> less time messing around with adjustment pots.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2015, 01:30:59 pm by electr_peter »
 

Offline Alex30Topic starter

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Re: My analog 0-12V 3A benchtop power supply
« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2015, 01:09:35 pm »
I also picked up 2 of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390727749972?var=660192233360&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

I will display my output voltage and current on this. I know my current measurement will probably only be accurate to 0.001A but I thought I may as well use a 5 digit display just because 2 of these things next to each other would look pretty cool. For the ISET display I am just using a 3 digit display as I don't think there's any point in even trying to see if I can set the current limit to less than 5mA accuracy simply I don't think it will work based on the tolerances of the components and I really don't see the point anyway.
How will you provide power for panel meters? These meters require isolate supply to provide accurate reading.
I also plan to use such type of panel meters with 2 isolated supplies for my PS. I chose those because of a bit higher claimed accuracy (resolution is a bit bogus I suspect) -> less time messing around with adjustment pots.

That was one thing I was going to work out in the prototype actually. I was thinking that as there is some degree of isolation with the multiple rails I have (+16, +15, +5, -6) I may just be able to power it off those. I will then compare it to powering it with a completely isolated supply and see what kind of accuracy I can get.
 


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