My DIY alarm clock finally done

[bfrigon]

Hi!

This is my arduino based alarm clock...

It's open source. In case anyone is interested in building it, all schematics, gerber files, STL files are available on my blog :

https://www.frigon.info/posts/projects/alarm-clock-v3/

[Peabody]

Looks like you've done a great job.  It doesn't look "DIY" at all.  :-)

[bfrigon]

Thank you

[DaJMasta]

Probably some of the most comprehensive documentation I've seen with a project yet, and neat effect with the digit texturing!

[Terry01]

Hi!

This is my arduino based alarm clock...

It's open source. In case anyone is interested in building it, all schematics, gerber files, STL files are available on my blog :

https://www.frigon.info/posts/projects/alarm-clock-v3/

That really is something cool buddy! You should be well proud of that! I know I would be!

Well done for real... 

[bitbanger]

Awesome job - I'll echo the previous comment about documentation. I've seen commercial product mechanical packages with less detail than yours. Well done.

BTW curious what programs did you use? In particular, for the PCB in the mechanical assy prints. Also, schematics have hints of Altium but it also reminds me of Eagle (I haven't used Eagle in 10+ years so could be way off base).

This brings to mind an idea I've had for a while regarding an alarm clock...to be honest, I'll probably never get around to it (so if you feel so inclined, by all means..!). Personally I live and die by my Google calendar, and my alarm clock schedule is constantly changing. I thought it would be cool to somehow have an alarm clock synced with a Google calendar - at a most basic level a calendar specifically for setting alarms. You could go nuts and add some 'smarts' based on first calendar entry, it's location, my location (if phone is at home), how long it takes to get there, etc. A default weekday time (or whatever) could be set just in case.

Anyway I digress.... keep up the great work!

[Mr. Scram]

Very cool. I appreciate the extra effort taken to make it look manufactured, rather than just getting it near and calling it quits.

[battlecoder]

Love how the finished product looks.
And your mechanical drawings are a work of art indeed.

[bfrigon]

BTW curious what programs did you use? In particular, for the PCB in the mechanical assy prints. Also, schematics have hints of Altium but it also reminds me of Eagle (I haven't used Eagle in 10+ years so could be way off base).

Thank you,

I use KiCad. I did use Eagle, long time ago... When i made the move to KiCad, i converted my libraries.

The PCB's you see in the mechanical drawings are modeled using SolidWorks. I include only the components that have a major impact on the rest of the assembly such as connectors, switches, etc. to check for clearance and to align enclosure openings. I usually start with the 3D model before i even start placing the components in Kicad and go back and forth to make adjustments as needed along the way.

[james_s]

I need another clock like I need a hole in my head but that's pretty cool looking.

[Edison]

Super work, both from industrial production 

[Mr. Scram]

I see you've used metal inserts. I assume they were melted into the plastic, but they look exceptionally clean. Can you tell us more about how you did those?

[bfrigon]

I see you've used metal inserts. I assume they were melted into the plastic, but they look exceptionally clean. Can you tell us more about how you did those?

They are press-fitted initially. Then i insert a screw and heat it with a soldering iron until the plastic around the threaded insert starts to melt. After it cools down completely, i remove the screw.

One thing though. The hole dimension required for this #4 threaded insert is 156 mils (5/32"). Shapeways print 3D objects with nylon powder using the SLS process. This can leaves excess material around the edges, so i had to drill the holes to make sure they were the right size.

Also, this type of plastic takes a long time to melt. The trick i found to know when it's hot enough is to wiggle the screw slightly with the iron (btw, i do this step with an old soldering iron). When it starts moving, then the plastic is melted enough. After it cools down, it's really solid.