EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff => Topic started by: Kiriakos-GR on August 29, 2010, 07:36:39 pm
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I took the decision many weeks back to build my own ,
high quality resistor box " Decade " , plus I liked to have other than reference resistor values,
and one reference DC source.
The resistors are Dale ( USA) 0.1% accuracy , or this is what the seller told me.
The DC reference chip are the Precision Reference LT1021
Ultralow Drift: 5ppm/°C Max Slope
? Very Low Noise: <1ppm P-P (0.1Hz to 10Hz)
? 100% Noise Tested
Linear Technology Corporation
1630 McCarthy Blvd., Milpitas, CA 95035-7417
www.linear.com (http://www.linear.com)
( I had power it up with 5 coin type batteries 3Vx5=15V , so no matter the specs , there is no noise. )
The total cost got up to 120 EUR , with the addition of the seventh stage (extra new switch ) .
The upcome its an truly perfect device .
Enjoy the pictures , as the words , are very poor to explain the amount of work ,
that I had invest on it.
The pictures will be divided in Topics.
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Topic 1 = Parts & Planning
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Topic 1 = Parts & Planning
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Topic 2= drilling
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Topic 3= Labels
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Topic 4= Assembly
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Topic 4= Assembly
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This is the last page of the primary presentation. :)
I will be happy to answer any questions .
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First question:
What do you use to print the Labels ?
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That looks pretty professional. Good job!
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For the less ambitious, you can easily knock up an R box with a bunch of thumbwheel switches with the R's wired on the backs of the switches.
With BCD thumbwheel switches, you can also do a cheap capacitance box (http://electricstuff.co.uk/capbox.html)
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First question:
What do you use to print the Labels ?
HP 970 Cxi + 250 grm Glossy photo paper. :)
( Legal Photoshop 7 )
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For the less ambitious, you can easily knock up an R box with a bunch of thumbwheel switches with the R's wired on the backs of the switches.
With BCD thumbwheel switches, you can also do a cheap capacitance box (http://electricstuff.co.uk/capbox.html)
I had knowledge about it , before I start my project ,
as you had said , its for the less ambitious .
There is no space to it , for calibration = adding extra resistors so to correct possible imperfections.
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Just lovely!, thanks for sharing.
Dave.
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Very neat job!
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I started building a resistance box but never finished.
Lol, I didn't think of connecting resistors in series like that, I used 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k resistors and made non-standard values by connecting resistors in series and parallel and I'm pretty embarrassed I didn't think of connecting them in series, which would've been easier.
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Nice work. :)
All is ok for this accuracy class what was designed, I think.
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But then one small question and some freestyle thinking around it:
"( I had power it up with 5 coin type batteries 3Vx5=15V , so no matter the specs , there is no noise. ) "
What is this meaning? You mean that reference power 15V have "not noise"? Yes in this accuracy class we can think that it (battery) have "no noise". (yes there are noise but not meaningful for this purpose)
But then, you tell that "no matter about specs , there is no noise." Do you mean that output of V ref have not noise becouse power V have very low noise? This is absolutely not truth afaik. (yes noise is "low" and not meaningful in your use but there is LOT of noise and many kind of noise what need take count if use these kind of reference chips for other purpose where need high accuracy and low noise level)
This datasheet specified noise is noise what reference chip itself made with "clean" power and isolated so that any other noise sources are eliminated.. (also trim resistors noise)
Chip itself noise is around 6 uV p-p between 0.1 - 10Hz and careful with specs. As note 6 explain... it have measured only 10second period. (yes it is "maybe" enough but... this "flicker" noise (aka 1/f noise) is very random. What about 0.01 - 0.1Hz noise? They do not tell anything but it really do not mean that there are no.
I know this reference is very good for you purpose and meet maybe all needs. I do NOT make any question about it for you needs. I think it is ok for normal handheld DVM check and specially if have some posibility to adjust it one time with good reference (if want more accuracy than factory "initial" accuracy.
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I want only "take this on the table" becouse I did not understand this: "( I had power it up with 5 coin type batteries 3Vx5=15V , so no matter the specs , there is no noise. ) " and also becouse making good (high-end) voltage reference is extremely difficult case. So if someone want make very accurate voltage reference then need read extremely careful these manufactures specs... (they tell only these values what they like... and also there are full mix of ways how to tell these... comparation between different voltage references are very very difficult if read only datasheets. Noise is one big difficult and other is long time stability and also thermal stability and thermal hysteresis. Every manufacturer measure and tell these things so that comparation is very difficult in real life. Only road is nearly so that need buy all and test with same methods and compare then. Long time stability example... they tell that typical 1000hrs 15ppm (non cumulative) then note 7 "consult factory for long term stability data... oh yes very clever not publish it on datasheet. Next 1000hrs is maybe 0.7 x 15 (typical) and next maybe 0.57 x 15 and so on... this is not cumulative... it is "square root rule".
This is NOT negative opinion about your project. My opinion is on the first row of this message.
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...err shouldn't that last switch be labelled either 100m? or 0.1?, not 0.1m?....?
And the wiring looks quite thin for a box going down that low.
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Very professional looking job.
I confess that I had never heard of a 'WAIDNER-WOLFF DECADE' before seeing your post.
Are there some resistors missing from your parts list?
I cannot understand how this works without non-decade resistor values.
I found this reference
http://www.isotechna.com/v/vspfiles/pdf_other/journal-2.2.pdf (starting about half way down page 18)
helpful in my understanding of the theory.
Jim
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But then, you tell that "no matter about specs , there is no noise." Do you mean that output of V ref have not noise becouse power V have very low noise? This is absolutely not truth afaik. (yes noise is "low" and not meaningful in your use but there is LOT of noise and many kind of noise what need take count if use these kind of reference chips for other purpose where need high accuracy and low noise level)
Thanks for your message , I am not specialist so to get in-depth about the called noise effect,
but I have do my homework over the years and the " Noise" it could be an friend on enemy ,
and this depends from the application.
At the current design " reference stabilization circuitry " , the hostile " Noise " are the one who cames in from the converted AC to DC .
In theory the " stabilization circuitry " , it should be able to suppress " filter " the input source,
so to help it even more, at becoming " Clear and stable " .
I know that I am not saying anything new up to here .
I agree that in any conversion , we have unwanted factors , like a bit of extra noise or heat.
But the major question are :
Does this amount of side-effects haves an negative influence in our circuitry ?
And the answer comes by it self , by looking at what this design it will be connected with .
The " Noise " as cause , its the major enemy of any circuity used at modulating acoustic frequency.
Like pre-amplifiers and broadcast systems ( example the FM band transmitter ).
If you are happy , with my new description like .... " this circuitry its an (Very Very) Low-noise one "
then I have no reason to defend it , as we all do agree on that. :)
Personally, I have so much faith to it , that I did not add any capacitor on it , as extra filtering ;)
Additionally ..
In praxis the Reference LT1021 stabilizes to 10V with just 10.48 volts as input voltage.
The white paper suggests 12V stabilized input voltage , and I have add 15 V ..
The schematic says that any voltage above the 12V it will cause an small drift .
So I will remove as test, one battery from the chain , and test to see if the Fluke 87-5 it will detect the change, as an perfect 10.0.0.0. volt indication. :)
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...err shouldn't that last switch be labelled either 100m? or 0.1?, not 0.1m?....?
;D I had 50 Greeks electronics engineers ( on another forum ) debating on that ... about the ultra correct description.
And no one win ... ;D
So we ended up to agree , that we have to accept the labeling on the resistor as guide.
Its an 0.10 Ohm ones , equals to 9 X 0.10 = 0.90 Ohm = 1 Ohm minus 0.10 mOhm :)
And the wiring looks quite thin for a box going down that low.
This is an copper wire with silver at 1mm , more than enough for an low current circuitry,
like 0-250 mA .
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I cannot understand how this works without non-decade resistor values.
Jim
The word "decade" are explained as the number ten .
Example .... 10 + 10 + 10 or 100 + 100 + 100 .. the base number are always the number ten.
So by my understanding , the current resistor values , they are " Decade compatible ",
if there is an such an term . :)
Are there some resistors missing from your parts list?
The 1 Ohm value its at the bottom left ( got this from another seller ) :)
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Just lovely!, thanks for sharing.
Dave.
Thanks Dave , I did my best for my age ... ;D
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As my opinion before. You reference is well good in this purpose (example with this fluke).
Fluke last digit is 1000 uV if measure 10V ;)
For this kind of needs this your reference is ok.
Backround for my message before: This time I try fight with 0.1 - 1uV at 10V. This is "littlebit" different case. ;)
Many weeks I have think that I need stop fighting. But also it is interesting to find new things to learn. So I do not stop yet.
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Sorry for my poor explanation.
If you are using a 'Waidner-Wolff' arrangement for the 0.1ohm decade, then if the shunt resistor is 1ohm, the resistor values around the switch are not all the same value but need to be (ohms):
0, 0.111, 0.139, 0.179, 0.238 ,0.333, 0.500, 0.833, 1.667, 5.000, open
to get a combined resistance of:
0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0
Jim
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...err shouldn't that last switch be labelled either 100m? or 0.1?, not 0.1m?....?
;D I had 50 Greeks electronics engineers ( on another forum ) debating on that ... about the ultra correct description.
And no one win ... ;D
Yes but 0.1m? can't be right - it should be either 100m? or 0.1?
So we ended up to agree , that we have to accept the labeling on the resistor as guide.
Its an 0.10 Ohm ones , equals to 9 X 0.10 = 0.90 Ohm = 1 Ohm minus 0.10 mOhm :)
And the wiring looks quite thin for a box going down that low.
This is an copper wire with silver at 1mm , more than enough for an low current circuitry,
like 0-250 mA .
I was thinking about its effect on resistance accuracy, not current-carrying capability, although switch contact resistance may be a more significant effect.
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Hello jimmc , its possible to be my fault , and I was not clear from the start.
I did not copy or recreate the exact 'Waidner-Wolff' schematic , its just an rough idea of how I connected my resistors ....
And as I explained and above ... the main concept are the " decade " box.
The total resistance of the all box , all stages included , are 00,04 Ohms ( 10,00 ohm range).
So if I enter the first stage in , I get 00,14 Ohms.
And then goes 00,24 00,34 00,44 etc etc
I have not measure yet the "quick exit" resistance = the three first stages,
I was busy up to now testing the reference DC source.
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Ok did my testing about the input volts at the reference chip .
After my second tests , I can verify that it stabilizes to 10V with just 10.80 input voltage.
I tested the input voltage VS mA consumption ( important factor for my battery source )
And found that the chip and the LED, they draw 2mA at 12 volts input , and almost 2,5mA at 15V ,
so I removed the one battery , and now they are 4 by 3V its one = 12v (12.34 actually )
The output, it continuously fluctuate like 10,000 - 10,001 in both 20.000 count Fluke meters.
In the last of the three pictures , its my home made battery holder , and I added one 100nano capacitor,
in the input of the TL Chip, so to comply 100% with the reference schematic.
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it should be either 100m? or 0.1?
Ok I agree , as long the 1 Ohm = 1000 milliohm , you are correct.
Thanks God , I had save the original Photoshop files with all the layers,
and the change will be a piece of cake . ;)
I will print it tomorrow. its 2 am here .... at 6:15 I have to get up ;)
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That's a lot of Fluke 80x0's you've got there. Have you considered a HP 3478A. They go for at most $150 and are way better. Or the 3468A which is under $100.
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That's a lot of Fluke 80x0's you've got there.
Well it has not planed to get that many, but now I am happy with them .
And they are more than good for my needs. :)
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How-ly it's looking good Kiriakos. :) I have made a resistance box too,but it's not anywhere near this. I used cheap rotary selectors from china and 1% resistors. It is more than adequate for my needs and I'm glad I built it.
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Hello @eternal_noob and welcome ..
Well I had found on ebay , ready made Decade boxes from China at 60 Euro .. (shipped)
But It was not an true solution. ( low manufacturing quality )
Because there is allot of labor involved at making one decade,
also the quality of the components has an primary value, so worth at the end ( trouble and money) .
About the 1% resistors ... well, even at the expensive 0.1% , I noticed that the lower values,
are more stable and accurate than the high ones .
I had also use the 1 Ohm range 1% resistors and they are fine.
From 100mOhm up to 1K Ohm , I had no problems .
At the x10K stage only two resistors was a bit off , of the ten , and at 100K 7 of the 10 was off ( yes 0,1% ) :)
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Very nice looking work, K.
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It seems like you paid far too much, you can buy the components for much cheaper.
0.1% resistors cost £0.15 (0.18 EUR) each at my local supplier (although they don't have <10R you still save a lot), even with 17.5% VAT they're still cheaper than the ebay supplier which might also be selling knock-offs.
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Resistors-Potentiometer/Metal-Film-Resistors/0.4W-0.1-25ppm-Precision-metal-film-resistors/83009
1% resistors are even cheaper but you have to buy in packs of 100.
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Resistors-Potentiometer/Metal-Film-Resistors/MF60-0.6W-1-Metal-film-resistors/30822
Rotary switches cost £0.70 (0.84 EUR) each.
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rotary-Switches/Rotary-switches/30304
EDIT:
Corrected currancy conversions)
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It seems like you paid far too much, you can buy the components for much cheaper.
0.1% resistors cost £0.15 (0.13 EUR) ..........1% resistors are even cheaper but you have to buy in packs of 100.......... Rotary switches cost £0.70 (0.58 EUR) each.
I know that I payed allot for the resistors , but this is the effect of what called as monopoly ..
No choices = high price .
And funny enough , also some ebayers from USA , was charging that high.
Even so , I think that I got " lucky " ...at list I found the parts that I was in need.
For the only thing that I can not complain, are the build quality of the switches that I got.
Thanks for pointing out this sources , it could be useful to some one. :)
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I was hesitating to post pictures of measurements with it ...
Because the " decade " it looks to me as the " master cheater device " .. ;D ;D ;D
You name it ... I can fix the value ... ;)
Any way, seriously its fun playing with it .
I did the final measurement of the inner resistance of it ...
I even clean the banana plugs with clean alcohol ..
Its an 0.02 at the " quick exit" point ( three stages)
and 0.04 at all seven stages.
The 0.04 divided by seven gives an 0.0057 value ,
the specs of the switches was saying about 0.005 contacts resistance.
So by removing the hypothetical contacts resistance,
I have the resistance of the wire = 0.0007 X 7 = 0,0049 .
I think that I had come very close to all parts specs,
and this numbers are my reinsurance , that I did not drill an hole in the water ( Greek phrase ) ,
( attempt with out result ) .
And so, this is the last images from this project .. :)
Now I got in trouble.
I need an small hard case for it , so to keep it protected , from dust and bumps . :D
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All your hard work certainly paid off Kiriakos. Well done on a great project. It looks fantastic.
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Nice job, I was surprised to read that the labels were just printed on a home printer.
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My next project would had to do with capacitors , not actually an decade .. :)
More like some standard values , with banana plugs in a star shape , and everything inside in an crystal clear, plexy glass case...
I will say more , when I will take the decision to make it .. :)
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Awesome job...looks beautiful!
My attention span is somewhat shorter<g>, so I've used a different approach for my needs. I use a 10-turn pot which is useful for things like providing a variable voltage to an ADC input.
http://digital-diy.com/home/handy-tips/235-simulating-analog-sensor-input.html (http://digital-diy.com/home/handy-tips/235-simulating-analog-sensor-input.html)
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What a pretty box of resistors
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Beautiful and well done project.
You got some nice coverage over at Hacked Gadgets
http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/09/04/diy-resistors-decade-box/ (http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/09/04/diy-resistors-decade-box/)
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Beautiful and well done project.
You got some nice coverage over at Hacked Gadgets
http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/09/04/diy-resistors-decade-box/ (http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/09/04/diy-resistors-decade-box/)
You are welcome , but you need to add my full Name as:
Kiriakos Triantafyllou from Volos - Greece ,
an 40 years old Industrial electrician knowledgeable at electronics repairs.
(And my contact email ... ) kiriakost@freemail.gr
Usually any such " sharing " is done by permission ,
if you add the above info , you have my permission.
Thanks.
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You are welcome , but you need to add my full Name as:
Kiriakos Triantafyllou from Volos - Greece ,
an 40 years old Industrial electrician knowledgeable at electronics repairs.
(And my contact email ... ) kiriakost@freemail.gr
I doubt that Johns_AZ was the one that posted this, he's not mentioned at all. Sending an email to Alan or posting a comment on Hacked Gadgets would probably be more productive.
Usually any such " sharing " is done by permission ,
You posted this on a public forum on the internet, don't expect people to treat this as your private pictures. People rarely complain about some extra exposure. These blogs exist to point people at cool projects, they don't usually ask permission. People usually notice because their traffic suddenly skyrocketed. This was posted with attribution and a link to the original thread and your profile, I'd say that's as good as it gets. If people want to send you an email or find out your full name, they can easily get that information. But if you want to complain about copyright infringement without permission, I'm sure Hacked Gadgets will gladly remove this.
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You posted this on a public forum on the internet, don't expect people to treat this as your private pictures.
Those pictures are available only at the registered forum members ...
And so an registered forum member had snatch them .
My only argument are that I am not an person, who has an limited identity over the internet,
and so I am not " living surrounded " by an just an forum name ..
About the " snatch " , some one of our members did it .
AND SO mister Alan Parekh that you are on our forum members ,
add and the rest of the " info " in good will .
To all , thanks for your good words , and I am happy that this project of my , helps the publicity of this forum,
and some how I am returning back ( payback) , the help ( awareness about DMM ) that I got from here too. :)
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Alm is correct, I didn't place your project on Hacked Gadgets. I also did not suggest it to them, although I might have had I thought of it. I'm usually proud when those sites cover one of my projects and presumed that you would feel the same. I have had many projects picked up by other blogs and have never been asked permission.
Also, I don't think a person has to be registered here to read the forums so anyone could have copied the photos.
As Dave gets more and more popular, his website, videos, and this forum are going to get more and more exposure. I think Hack-a-Day posted about his Kindle teardown the same day he posted it.
I also believe that Alan would remove your project from his site, or to revise the reference to your name if you wish.
It seems to me that you've built an awesome project, and that kind of coverage is high praise.
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Also, I don't think a person has to be registered here to read the forums so anyone could have copied the photos.
Yes and No ... yes = text No= pictures uploaded to the EEV server .
I also believe that Alan would remove your project from his site, or to revise the reference to your name if you wish.
I have clarify my wish , and this is my only expectation.
It seems to me that you've built an awesome project, and that kind of coverage is high praise.
The highest praise , are to own one ... ;)
And to be publicly verified ( world wide ) that it works ........ ;D
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Also, I don't think a person has to be registered here to read the forums so anyone could have copied the photos.
Yes and No ... yes = text No= pictures uploaded to the EEV server .
I also believe that Alan would remove your project from his site, or to revise the reference to your name if you wish.
I have clarify my wish , and this is my only expectation.
It seems to me that you've built an awesome project, and that kind of coverage is high praise.
The highest praise , are to own one ... ;)
And to be publicly verified ( world wide ) that it works ........ ;D
Hi Kiriakos,
I just saw the comment you left on the post I did over at Hacked Gadgets. Sorry I didn't know about your concerns that you posted here about the article. I have added the information that you requested, I didn't add your email address since that would just lead to a ton of junk mail. If you really want it in there I will do it though...
Please note that attribution was always there linking to this forum post so readers could get more information if they desired and I also linked to your profile using your forum name so there was sure to be no confusion that you built it.
I wasn't trying to steal your project or anything like that, I was just sharing it with the readers of Hacked Gadgets. I am not sure if non-registered members of the forum can see the pictures or not since I am a member and actually did post some feedback you you on this post. :)
Regards,
Alan Parekh
http://hackedgadgets.com (http://hackedgadgets.com)
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Thank you Alan ,
I did take the time to have an look and in other presentations at the " hackedgadgets ",
there is interesting stuff in there .
Regards
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I will add and another three high quality pictures , as proof that I had corrected my minor mistake about the 0.10mOhm .. :)
.
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I was actually pretty pleased when a project of mine showed up on Hack-A-Day (http://hackaday.com/2010/01/16/volt-meter-clock/).
And I had a real sense of accomplishment when I showed it at a local hacker space and a girl saw it and said "Wow. Just like the one on Hack-A-Day." and I was able to correct her "No, this is the one from Hack-A-Day!
(http://hackadaycom.files.wordpress.com/2010/01/vmclock.jpg?w=470&h=341)
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Kiriakos-Gr, have you put your decade box to good use yet? Is it really useful to have around?
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I had check all my multimeter's about correct calibration ,
and I have it on my bench for quick tests too.
I had use low wattage resistors on it,
and I can not use it for currents over 600mA .
And so it can be used so to " match" ( find ) the resistance value for LEDs or small DC motors.
You can find the resistor that you need so to keep an computer fan silent at easy ;)
The truth are that the resistors decade box, and the voltage calibrators,
are not items for daily use .
But with out them , you do have the feeling that something missing among your tools.
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It looks that my project become more famous than expected.
I just did an search on Google about decade resistors box.
And got many pictures of my own .. :D
Its one are posted to several other forums ... Example:
http://www.eaglecentral.ca/forums/index.php?S=7d6c909b9a628944de0853b870f2b1c8&t=msg&th=38622 (http://www.eaglecentral.ca/forums/index.php?S=7d6c909b9a628944de0853b870f2b1c8&t=msg&th=38622)
Google Link ( decade pictures ) : http://www.google.gr/images?q=decade+resistors&hl=el&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=s&prmd=i&source=lnms&tbs=isch:1&ei=uwngTLBNw8yzBpTG7foL&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&ved=0CBMQ_AU&biw=1024&bih=610 (http://www.google.gr/images?q=decade+resistors&hl=el&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=s&prmd=i&source=lnms&tbs=isch:1&ei=uwngTLBNw8yzBpTG7foL&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&ved=0CBMQ_AU&biw=1024&bih=610)
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:D
Are you crazy !! I got even in, at the Science Projects Archives ;D
I had become part of the recorded history , about handmade electronic designs .
I bet that even Dave , he must be proud for me. ;)
http://science-projects.mattters.com/2010/9/4/how-to-make-a-robot--lesson-3-making-sense-of-actuators (http://science-projects.mattters.com/2010/9/4/how-to-make-a-robot--lesson-3-making-sense-of-actuators)
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I think your Decade box is excellent, and has inspired me to make my own, yours look very professional, and I'll bet your really proud of your work, you should be, :-+ :-+ :-+ :-+
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For the less ambitious, you can easily knock up an R box with a bunch of thumbwheel switches with the R's wired on the backs of the switches.
With BCD thumbwheel switches, you can also do a cheap capacitance box (http://electricstuff.co.uk/capbox.html)
Good job Kiriakos-GR, very good job!..........Love it.
Per Mike, here's mine (cheap & cheerful category). Range= 0.1 ohm to 99.9999999M ohms
Ian.
(http://www.ianjohnston.com/images/stories/IanJ/ResistanceDecadeBox/final.jpg)
(http://www.ianjohnston.com/images/stories/IanJ/ResistanceDecadeBox/IMG_3308.JPG)
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I will add and another three high quality pictures , as proof that I had corrected my minor mistake about the 0.10mOhm .. :)
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Sir ,
Apologies if i missed it in some discussion .Are there any schematics of this .I could not understand what " DC power " is doing in a decade box .
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This is the last page of the primary presentation. :)
I will be happy to answer any questions .
Just a beautiful build.
Good Job
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Hello Kiriakos-GR,
Firstly your project is beautifully designed. My hearty wishes for that. Can i check with you if we can use this Decade Resistance Box for Calibration of Insulation Testers ? Whats your suggestion ?
Thanks
Cane
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Quote from: curiouscane on Today at 05:06:32 AM (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=1148.msg523541#msg523541)
Hello Kiriakos-GR,
Firstly your project is beautifully designed. My hearty wishes for that. Can i check with you if we can use this Decade Resistance Box for Calibration of Insulation Testers ? Whats your suggestion ?
Thanks
Cane
He was banned from this forum years ago.
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I think he has his own forum now
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Is it ? Sorry Iam a newbie. Can you share the link to his new forum ?
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Decade boxes are test instruments which use a series of resistors, capacitors, or inductors to simulate very specific electrical values. They can be quickly and easily substituted into a circuit and replace any standard value component. Their ability to be configured to nearly any resistance, capacitance, or inductance makes decade boxes a convenient way to find the optimum value for circuit operation. Highly useful for laboratory, education, or design work; decade boxes are also ideal for verifying the accuracy of test equipment prior to use as well as troubleshooting in the field or on the factory floor.
I came late to the party.
I would like to build one . 7 segment display? Or showing numbers instead using lots of knobs?
I think he has his own forum now
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Very good job.