Universal Soldering Controller 5.2 - Kit and General Construction Questions!

[Chris56000]

Hi!

Some questions about the Universal Soldering Controller o/s 5.2 project, with regard to building one at home:-

1) Are complete kits of the PCB and electronic parts used on it available for home assembly, and can anyone recommend a good metal bench-top case that's not to difficult to drill etc;

2) Are there any Mounting Bezels compatible with LCD Display Modules (character or graphic) that only need a simple rectangular cut-out to mount that will provide a nice "factory assembled" type finish?

3) Does it need anything unusual in the way of transformers or chokes? - I'm happy to use more than one mains transformer!

4) Can anyone recommend a good iron? Can I use Weller "Magnastat" irons on these and simply short-out the Magnastat switch, or would I be better getting a multicore DSX-type cable and bringing the "Magnastat" contacts back to the control PCB?

All the available info seems to be a bit scattered/fragmented and if any Member who's built a nice "Pace Style" one can point me in the direction of hints/tips/docs/suggested part types/construction blog I'd be very grateful!

In addition to that, if there's any UK member with access to routing/milling/drilling facilities who's willing to do the front & rear panel cutouts for a reasonable price that'd be a great help as I'm absolutely useless with metalwork!

I'm thinking of using a simple self-adhesive or plain-paper front & rear panel overlay covered with that matt film used for covering maps on wall display, and using Abacom's "Front Designer" to make artwork - it's not building it & getting it to work that puts me off but rather rounding up bits from a multitude of suppliers and making it look presentable and not a bodged-up mess full of innumerable gashes and scratches!

I know there's any number of ready-made ones in all sorts of price-ranges and quality, but I especially enjoy kit/equipment building and having the knowledge that it's fully documented and I know exactly what parts are in it (for future replacement purposes!) down to the last screw & washer! Also limited funds mean bits have to be purchased in easy monthly instalments!

Chris Williams

[CCB]

Hi Chris,

I've built the UniSolder 5.2 and am very happy with it. Thanks to SparkyBG ! 

http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175

I did manage to purchase a kit from a guy in Russia through Ebay but he doesn't sell them anymore  . If you have trouble tracking down all the parts then project might be a bit much?

You can purchase the PCB here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/UniSolder-5-2-DIY-PCB-Universal-soldering-station-for-Hakko-JBC-Stock-EU-Spain/152735966660?hash=item238fc5e5c4:g:umEAAOSwi7RZHfti

Instead of purchasing an enclosure and cutting the front etc you can purchase the BK2000+ soldering station, that's what the UniSolder was designed for so it mounts easily. It comes with an iron holder and isn't too badly priced considering you don't need to pay to have a front machined etc. You basically remove the insides and install the UniSolder PCB's.
https://www.amazon.com/Blackjack-SolderWerks-BK2000-Soldering-Station/dp/B00CXAC3PK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509166893&sr=8-4&keywords=blackjack+soldering

See here for a demo showing the case


Transformer is suggested to use a Toroidal 120w 24v.

I purchased a Hakko clone handle and bare T12 Contoller/tips to use to assemble the UniSolder. The iron then works fine on the UniSolder and I'm going to purchase a JBC handle and tips soon.

I wouldn't say the project is cheap to finish. But considering that in New Zealand the Hakko FX-951 costs about $600-800 then this is cheaper. When you consider the cost of JBC stations this is much cheaper.

Cheers,
Carl

[Chris56000]

Hi!

Thanks for your tip Carl - unfortunately the seller at the link you posted doesn't ship to the UK, but I've found the very thing to build the UniSolder in:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T12-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-aluminum-shell-case-Power-IEC-Socket-kits/152761328551?epid=706328148&hash=item239148e3a7:g:mt8AAOSwNrBZ8w1y

So I've ordered one plus a UniSolder PCB - all I need now is a link to the Construction Docs, BOM, etc., etc!

Chris Williams

[ciccio]

Be cautious: te link you post is offers the  case for another kit, the ubiquitous T12 clone kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-DIY-Kits-For-HAKKO-T12/122752642940?hash=item1c94a0af7c:m:mpLxpSTSj8LyqPMMXfd9ZsA
There is no room inside for a suitable power transformer, the front panel is completely different, no pushbuttons, no correct diplay cut-out.
I mounted the above kit (one similar, in effect) and it is very good. The only problem is tip grounding, which in my case causes instability in the tip temperature display.
Best regards

[CCB]

Hi Chris,

Looking back through my emails I actually purchased the BK2000+ via Circuit Specialists Ebay site and they do ship internationally. I used Paypal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BK2000-premium-digital-soldering-station-temperature-controlled-solder-iron/221584087075?hash=item339770d823:g:3SYAAOSwcnpTqua1

Sellers name is csi4u

The BOM is on the first page of the dangerous prototypes project log in the first link in my first post. There are no step by step instructions. You purchase the components and solder them on the PCB . You really need to spend a little time reading/skimming through at the first 50-100 pages and make your own notes.

Once assembled power up the back board and check voltages before connecting it to the front board. There are forum posts on that also.

I did come across this github repository which attempts to add some documentation: https://github.com/5N44P/unisolder-notes

I don't want to replicate the info from DP forums. But these pics really helped me..

Cheers,
Carl

[TheAmmoniacal]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

[anilverma.b]

not sure if someone would respond on this topic but i thought would be worth trying and would really appreciate any help here as the original thread and site is not accepting any queries.

i had built this project couple of months back but did not have a decent temperature tester to measure the accuracy, i found the C245 tip was off by about -70C at a set temperature of 350C after calibrating with a decent 10Ohm 0.1% resistor. So i pushed the trimmer to both ends on the calibration menu and found the gap reduce to 20C from 70C at the anti-clockwise end. I think ill have to play around the values on R57 and R59 and probably go higher to get close to the actual temperature but my PCB is pretty beaten up and i dont think the pads will survive anymore heat cycles. If someone has any insight on what values needs to be updated in this part of the circuit so that i can jump right to it?

[anilverma.b]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

I used to get 21 while powering the PIC32 with the Pickit3 for programming. I suggest you check both the four pin power and 10pin ribbom for connection issues with the back board.

[TheAmmoniacal]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

I used to get 21 while powering the PIC32 with the Pickit3 for programming. I suggest you check both the four pin power and 10pin ribbom for connection issues with the back board.

That problem has long been fixed, but now I've got a new one. Using a JBC C245 the station outputs 130W continously while the temperature displays 21-84 C. Will have to recheck the wiring...

[anilverma.b]

That problem has long been fixed, but now I've got a new one. Using a JBC C245 the station outputs 130W continously while the temperature displays 21-84 C. Will have to recheck the wiring...
[/quote]

That's because PIC32 is not getting any VTemp data from ADC and it keeps sending full power to the iron, is your iron getting red hot?
Disconnect C245 goto calibration menu and see what the ADC is outputting. Move the trimmer and see if the ADC value changes if not then its something wrong with ADC or the path before that. I had the same problem U15 had a loose solder joint.

[w9gb]

Regarding the Magnistat ... NO.

The Universal Controller is designed for Heater and Temperature Sensor (PTC, resistive, thermocouple, etc.).

Magnistat (Magnetic Switch with Ferrous plug tips) uses “Curie Effect” with NO electronics.
Designed and Patented in 1959-1964 when electronics (Triac, ICs, modern solid-state) did not heat exist.
Damn innovative by Carl Weller’s team (adjacent to world’s best ferrous metallurgists at Bethlehem Steel).
Metcal/OKI uses magnetic switches with Inductive (RF) heating in its high-end solder stations.

[usabyken]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

Hi TheAmmoniacal
How do you fixed this?
I has the same problem display 21 then 45 in the upper left.

[TheAmmoniacal]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

Hi TheAmmoniacal
How do you fixed this?
I has the same problem display 21 then 45 in the upper left.

I did fix this problem, sadly I don't remember how. The project remains in my drawer unfinished, the problem I have now is that the iron just heats up at max power continuously.

[sixtimesseven]

I have a question regarding calibration:

I got the ADC on the calibration screen to show something now but I cannot get down to R=1000, lowest would be about R=1400.
Also, there one can set "Current" from 0 to 1023(?), but as soon as I touch that value ("current") my ADC readings change and my "R" goes all over the place. At "Current: 0 0" the ADC and R stays at 0. What does that variable "Current" set?


Is there a list of the error codes somewhere? I get error 21 but have no idea what it means...


This hole Unisolder thing is really frustrating. I should have looked into it more before starting on that one. I cannot help but think that this project is far to complicated for what it is trying to archive. The BOM alone is huge and it baffles my why that should be  Documentation is pretty much non existent (unfortunately).

[L.R Johansson]

Hiya', EEVbloggers - newbie here - my pursuit of obtaining the necessary materials for developing my skills for serious electronics-work, has finally led me here. (I wanna' make motherboards for computers)

Unisolder 5.2 seems like the only way someone in my economic situation can ever (I'm about to enter long-term sick-leave) hope to obtain a quality soldering iron. Plus, it's just cool...

Anyways, I have some questions which I haven't quite been able to figure out yet, after checking youtube videos and reading here and on the Dangerousprototypes forum:


1. How many LAYERS does the pcb have? Is it merely two? 4? I can't see anyone mentioning this, anywhere. (yes, I admit it, I haven't looked at the gerber files yet)

2. Is it plausible that PCBway could manufacture the pcb for me, with their free prototype program? How much does one get, when it comes to their capability? What dimensions, how many layers, how complex, et c.

3. Is it plausible that Unisolder could function reasonably well with the tips from PACE ADS200? This has been asked in the past, but no one seems to be quite sure.

4. How does the compatibility actually work here? There's a list of multiple tips and manufacturers which are confirmed to be working - but is that just "PLUG AND PLAY", or does that mean that someone has created complex firmware-profiles for these brands, to make Unisolder work with those tips?

[Shock]

3. Is it plausible that Unisolder could function reasonably well with the tips from PACE ADS200? This has been asked in the past, but no one seems to be quite sure.

How does the compatibility actually work here? There's a list of multiple tips and manufacturers which are confirmed to be working - but is that just "PLUG AND PLAY", or does that mean that someone has created complex firmware-profiles for these brands, to make Unisolder work with those tips?

Sparkybg the owner of the project hasn't been on the eevblog forums in a few years. Send him a message with the link to this thread hopefully he will get the email notification. Otherwise you could also ask him on the dangerous prototypes forum.

I believe you add a resistor to the handpiece. Software matches the detected resistance to the profile.

The Unisolder seemed to support the Pace TD-100 handpiece. It may work with the TD-200, from what I can tell the new tips are a series wired k type thermocouple and that is supported on other Unisolder handpieces. So at a minimum a new a profile, but there may be other requirements for the power delivery. If you intend to run the new 120W aluminum tweezers for the ADS200 some time in the future that is a consideration as well.

I don't want to put you off your project, but assembling a Unisolder is a lot of work, once you do all the parts ordering, assembly, troubleshooting it's far easier just ordering a complete ADS200. I was looking a making a Unisolder myself, but its an overkill if the station is already reasonably priced and efficient.

Edit:

Now you can buy complete pcbs so much less effort and expense.

[TheAmmoniacal]

I would also advice against the UniSolder project, I'm a year into it, almost $200 in parts and it's still not working properly.

[L.R Johansson]

3. Is it plausible that Unisolder could function reasonably well with the tips from PACE ADS200? This has been asked in the past, but no one seems to be quite sure.

How does the compatibility actually work here? There's a list of multiple tips and manufacturers which are confirmed to be working - but is that just "PLUG AND PLAY", or does that mean that someone has created complex firmware-profiles for these brands, to make Unisolder work with those tips?

Sparkybg the owner of the project hasn't been on the eevblog forums in a few years. Send him a message with the link to this thread hopefully he will get the email notification. Otherwise you could also ask him on the dangerous prototypes forum.

I believe you add a resistor to the handpiece. Software matches the detected resistance to the profile.

The Unisolder seemed to support the Pace TD-100 handpiece. It may work with the TD-200, from what I can tell the new tips are a series wired k type thermocouple and that is supported on other Unisolder handpieces. So at a minimum a new a profile, but there may be other requirements for the power delivery. If you intend to run the new 120W aluminum tweezers for the ADS200 some time in the future that is a consideration as well.

I don't want to put you off your project, but assembling a Unisolder is a lot of work, once you do all the parts ordering, assembly, troubleshooting it's far easier just ordering a complete ADS200. I was looking a making a Unisolder myself, but its an overkill if the station is already reasonably priced and efficient.

Hmm, I suppose it is... Money is immensely tight right now though, so I have to find some other solution. Cheers for the info though.

I would also advice against the UniSolder project, I'm a year into it, almost $200 in parts and it's still not working properly.

DAMN! : O Yeah... 200$ worth of parts, et c, to make the project, is certainly a bit too much.

All right, you guys have given me some more realistic perspectives on things, so I'll be leaving Unisolder for the time being - I'll revisit it in the future, once I've gotten some more skills and, above all, funding.

[TheAmmoniacal]

Even with a fully assembled and tested UniSolder, it will give you a lot of headache correctly wiring the iron, changing the socket/plug, adding sense resistor, calibration etc. The documentation is just not good, you pretty much have to go through 200 pages of forum posts to find information piece by piece.

[sixtimesseven]

I assembled my unisolder now and it works. Only problems are that at power up, it does not detect an iron. After 20-30s it does and it heats up... Second problem is that I had to replace Q1 which forms the overvoltage circuit.

I think the unisolder was a good idea, but just looking at the schematic gives you the impresion that there is FAR to much stuff on there.
Marco Reps did a short youtube video regarding the JBC245 irons. All he used was a triac, a small micro and some jellybean parts. That should give you an idea...


EDIT: Ok, it was a bit more involved. But not much... I like his DIY Station, very very simple... Link to the video:

[sixtimesseven]

Time to revive this old thread.

What would you expect to get on the OLED if you power the board without an iron, holder or sensor?

Mine displays "21" followed by "45", small text in the upper left. Buttons do nothing.

Hi TheAmmoniacal
How do you fixed this?
I has the same problem display 21 then 45 in the upper left.

I did fix this problem, sadly I don't remember how. The project remains in my drawer unfinished, the problem I have now is that the iron just heats up at max power continuously.

I noticed this behaviour when I would Power up the iron and dissconect the sense wires after it starts to heat up. Which is a bit worrisome since a failure of those wires could pose a fire risk.

However, I cannot start the iron without the sense wires attached. Are you sure the heating is comanded by the micro? Is there a Power indicator on the Oled? If not I would suspect the drive circuit.

[TheAmmoniacal]

The status of my UniSolder project remains the same, when I power on the station it just feeds full power to it continously. It would glow red hot if I didn't put it in a glass of water. The OLED correctly display the power being delivered (125-127W) for a JBC C245 tip, however the temperature reading is stuck at ~RT (24-27 C). The current source is working.

It's difficult to troubleshoot without the iron connected, but neither do I want to destroy my tips..

[martin1454]

Just a heads-up if you plan to just use the JBC T245, this is cheaper, but only works for the T245:
https://www.tindie.com/products/soguklehim/soldering-iron-controller-v32-for-jbc-t245c245/

[sixtimesseven]

The status of my UniSolder project remains the same, when I power on the station it just feeds full power to it continously. It would glow red hot if I didn't put it in a glass of water. The OLED correctly display the power being delivered (125-127W) for a JBC C245 tip, however the temperature reading is stuck at ~RT (24-27 C). The current source is working.

It's difficult to troubleshoot without the iron connected, but neither do I want to destroy my tips..

Sounds about the same as when I disconnect the sense wire. The temperature would be stuck around 25-30degC (on the display). I would double check all the soldering points, values and connections to the iron in the temp. sense section.

Try Power the Unisolder via a lab supply. When I did so and limited to 20V 1A, the iron would only pull about 15W. Maybe by limiting it even lower you could manage the heat.
In addition, try putting the iron into a cup of water before you power it on. That way it sould not go far above 100degC.

[Shock]

Just a heads-up if you plan to just use the JBC T245, this is cheaper, but only works for the T245

A heads up as well, the tindie JBC controller has no power supply. You can setup a Pace ADS200 for the same price but get everything included and it runs both standard and high mass tips in the same handpiece.

Tips are only $11-$13 each instead of ~$30-$50 and the tip working distance is superior to both the T245, T470 handpieces due to Pace going with an aluminum design (better heat spreading).

Marco Reps did a short youtube video regarding the JBC245 irons. All he used was a triac, a small micro and some jellybean parts

After that video Marco made two more stations, but ended up getting an ADS200 which he is still using as of his latest video. He did a quick comparison and showed the same heating speed on the Pace ADS200 vs a JBC handpiece running on a Unisolder station. The JBC CDB stations do appear slightly faster, but my guess is the heating profile sacrifices regulation (overshoot) for speed, it's a double edged sword.