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Beginners / Re: Help with desoldering
« Last post by helius on Today at 05:09:52 PM »
In situations where you only have 2 pins and they are pretty close together, you can apply heat to both at once and the pins will drop out. You can add some solder to bridge the pins together and hold the iron on them until the header pins fall out (if you want to encourage them out, remember they will be very hot so use tweezers or needle nose pliers not your hand!)
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... LC oscillator controlled via a relay from an Arduino which will measure the frequency as per http://www.qsl.net/wm5z/cq199301b.pdf

Thanks! Saved for my reading list.
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you could email  to our after sales

...a webpage with a link to the software, plus a changelog would be a good, professional idea, no?
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Well looks like that might be the case. After charging overnight, I tried to discharge it with an RC Lipo pack charger/discharger, and it cut out pretty quick. Did it again with a voltmeter on the output, and it fell to about 14.5 V before the BMC cut off. Rats - need a new pack :( Strange that both behaved in such a similar manner.

Thanks for the pointer. I forgot that BMCs can cut off even if a single cell falls below threshold.
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General Chat / Re: Nintendo Medical
« Last post by tooki on Today at 05:04:02 PM »
Oh. It’s got nothing to do with being a twitter member or not. The guy seems to have changed that post to private after I linked to it (and lots of media embedded it and referenced it) — I just wanted to link to the source and not a clickbait website, but oh well.

Here’s an article: http://www.distractify.com/trending/2017/09/21/lSlMc/med-device-gameboy
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Beginners / Re: Correct punchdown tool for this connector?
« Last post by Nusa on Today at 04:56:05 PM »
Yes, those look like MTA connectors of some brand, for which manual punch tools exist.

For good results, you need to use the stranded wire size the connector was designed for.
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Test Equipment / Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Last post by helius on Today at 04:54:15 PM »
hello, anybody have a picture of the 300v version of the 8060a? i never have seen any. unless the exterior labels be the same in both 1000v and 300v (i doubt it), if yes how to know which is which?

In 1990, the "CAT standards" (Measurement Categories per IEC 61010-1) for meters were released. The Fluke 8060A can only withstand 300V on its resistance ranges, so it can only meet CAT I 300V. To qualify for a "CAT I" label, the voltage ranges were reduced to 300V for both DC and AC. Otherwise, I don't think the meter was changed: it is no safer than the unmodified 8060A.

It can be recognized by two differences from the normal model: the presence of "CAT I" below and to the right of the red jack, and the highest voltage range is marked "300V \$ \simeq \$ " instead of the normal "1000V DC / 750V AC". In addition, the maximal voltage limits printed underneath the jacks are lower (300V MAX from common to earth instead of 500V, and 300V \$ \simeq \$ from red to common instead of 1000V DC / 750V AC MAX).

Here's a picture: https://cache.osta.ee/iv2/auctions/1_9_30853067.jpg
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Repair / Re: two humming audio amps mystery
« Last post by technogeeky on Today at 04:52:03 PM »

I didn't see this test result because I didn't read carefully, but I don't think it's particularly meaningful.


Vital hints;

Yes, your highlighting points out that this test is not helpful (in this case); it is just measuring environmental noise. The subwoofer is amplifying stray mains noise, and the longer the cable, the more of this it will be able to pick up. If you touch the center pins (and perhaps also the outer jacket), the subwoofer will also amplify all of the noise picked up by your body.
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Test Equipment / Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Last post by URI on Today at 04:51:32 PM »
Quote from: bd139 on Today at 01:20:01
Decided to build some test gear today. Started off with "hey lets try and measure some toroids with my chinese LCR meter" followed by frustration and failure. Now have dreamed up an LXI/SCPI rig and software I can run off my DG1022Z counter and an LC oscillator controlled via a relay from an Arduino which will measure the frequency as per
http://www.qsl.net/wm5z/cq199301b.pdf

Thanks for sharing that link! *saved*  :-+
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Beginners / Re: Help with desoldering
« Last post by FreddyVictor on Today at 04:47:49 PM »
First of all, remove the black plastic of the connector using snippers but do not cut the pins themselves
Then, add some solder to iron (to ensure good transfer of heat), hold tweezers in one hand and iron in the other, apply iron to a pin for a few seconds before quickly yanking the pin out with the tweezers
clean up with IPA
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