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1
Beginners / Connector Question
« Last post by TimeBandit on Today at 11:08:11 pm »
Ok, newbie question here, but do these connectors just pull straight off? I don't want to force anything. . . .

2
Beginners / First PCB - how does it look?
« Last post by LooseJunkHater on Today at 11:06:05 pm »
PCB view (no traces on the underside): 2140462-0
Schematic: 2140486-1
Main IC: MP5035 https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/mp5035.html

Holes labelled STP* (small holes) are TestPoint_THTPad_D1.5mm_Drill0.7mm. Holes labelled BTP* (big holes) are TestPoint:TestPoint_THTPad_D3.0mm_Drill1.5mm. The trace sizes are 3mm and 0.6mm.

I purposely went with through-holes for increased durability (if I need to perform bodges/mods). I also obviously have not yet laid the ground plane yet.

Feedback? Thanks.
3
Beginners / Re: XOR gate problem with GND
« Last post by Ian.M on Today at 11:04:39 pm »
Certainly that's another way of implementing an XNOR which is all you need if the load is active low.
4
Manufacturing & Assembly / Source for small "potting boxes"??.....
« Last post by Smokey on Today at 11:04:30 pm »
I'm looking for a good source of small potting boxes.  The kind you put your PCB in and then fill with epoxy to act as both a weather seal and a housing. 
Requirements include some sort of mounting tab to screw the thing down.

Here is an example of the configuration I'm looking for at the moment:


I would think someone would have that off the shelf.  I don't really want to have that custom made right now.
Thoughts?
5
My average current draw will be ~150mA @ 5V, whereas 0.7A is my max draw (during very low duty-cycle Rx/Tx)

I looked at the RT6224D for example, efficiency at 12V input at 150mA is only 85% whereas Webench's solution claims 97.5%
6
RF, Microwave, Ham Radio / Re: WSJT-X on Pi
« Last post by metrologist on Today at 10:58:20 pm »
Many years ago, with a Win98 laptop, I could interface with my HF rig using PSK31. I can't do that now with the latest computing tech.
7
Repair / Re: Desoldering advice
« Last post by modoran on Today at 10:57:02 pm »
Use a preheater or hot air simultaneously to get the whole board arena to at least 80C and the relay will be desoldered much easier.

No smd part will fell off even at 230C due to the surface tension. But however aluminium caps will not withstand that .
8
Repair / Re: Rivets/eyelets for PCB repair
« Last post by mightyohm on Today at 10:55:28 pm »
lots of choices
https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/esd-control-cleanroom-pcb-prototyping/pcb-tools/pcb-rivets-riveting-tools/?sra=p

I'm not seeing assortments here - it looks like the min order for the smaller (eg. 0.4mm ID) rivets is 1000 pcs, so that's $98 per size plus the tool!
9
Repair / Re: Rivets/eyelets for PCB repair
« Last post by mightyohm on Today at 10:51:58 pm »
Just drill a smaller hole and use a piece of wire.  Cut flush.  Works great, and it's hard to beat the price.  Attached is a poor picture of a couple of projects.  Both sides of the board are shown.

I've done this before. Several years ago I had access to an LPKF PCB mill and resorted to doing this in order to make double-sided boards.

However, the wire method doesn't work for my present use case, which is repairing damaged plated through holes in 2-sided PCBs. I need to be able to insert a component lead through the hole.
10
Repair / Re: Motherboard has no power - Clevo W650SC
« Last post by modoran on Today at 10:51:38 pm »
Then use IPA to see what is getting hot. Is not as fast as a thermal camera, but it will din the job.

Inject 1V and a lot of amps into the circuit.
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