Low Cost PCB's Low Cost Components

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1
Those zenners are subtracting from the 24v. If the 24v rail voltage drops, the Gate voltage will drop by the same amount.
 It would be better if they were used to limit Gate voltage by clamping it.

You mean like this?
2
Other Equipment & Products / Re: Ever heard of an open source screwdriver?
« Last post by kPATm on Today at 12:26:18 AM »
HHmmm. A "WowStick" sounds like something else??
3
Test Equipment / Re: Spectrum Analyzer, which one to get?
« Last post by amdnra on Today at 12:26:05 AM »
Quote
it shifts the measurements up and down on the screen accordingly
Exactly! Then the damn thing does not stay at -25db!!
Answer this question please: If the signal does not change one bit from the aforementioned -25db with either the Attenuator ON or OFF then of what use it relly is and how can you tell that the Internal Attenuator is on? Does anybody understand the question??
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Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: LED optics design
« Last post by Swemarv on Today at 12:25:35 AM »
Have you looked at the Marubeni LEDs

http://tech-led.com/product/ir-nir-leds/smbb/

You may also have a look at Citizen and Stanley, they also make similar LEDs
Princeton optronics makes vcsels with difffractive optics that gives a 45x60 square, realy nice.
http://www.princetonoptronics.com/product/large-divergence-vcsel-array-modules-1w-850nm/

Skickat från min D5803 via Tapatalk

5
As I said though, buck with a ina301-q1 might work with a very low component count. You don't need any voltage regulation loop at all, since it can simply be allowed to go upto supply. Just need to limit current through an inductor with an on/off P-MOSFET without trying to switch it too often.

The reason I suggested this IC because it does high side current sensing with a built in comparator, whereas I thought all buck LED drivers were low side current sensing (which you presumably don't want).

Looking a little further though, I saw the TPS92515-Q1. A 2A internal FET constant current LED driver with high side current sensing, that should be ideal for you. Drop out is 0.2V max, which I doubt is a problem.
6
There's the thermal transfer printer where a full-width thermal printhead selectively melts ink off a full-area ribbon onto the paper. I don't think this is what the technician is recommending since thermal transfer is usually used for high-speed, easy-maintenance label printing in narrower widths (4-inches). There's the related dye-sublimation technology which thermally transfers dye to its own dedicated paper. Its selling point is continuous tone printing for photos.

I think your technician is recommending solid ink printer technology. Waxy ink blocks are melted and the printhead deposits it on the page. It's compatible with a wide range range of media and the ink is very opaque. However, it might be a bad choice for a low usage application. The printer has to keep the ink melted for on-demand printing. If you only print a few pages once in a while, you'll cook the inks in the tanks so much that they'll go bad. Ask your technician how many pages a month are needed to keep the inks fresh. Ask if you can disable the color part of printer as you won't be using color printing at all for photoresist masks.

7
EEVblog Specific / Re: Bybee's Lament
« Last post by grumpydoc on Today at 12:23:25 AM »
A related story, from the place I work.

We were having network errors at certain building locations. A lot of people were involved, because one of those locations was the General Director's office.
Long story short; one of the engineers assisting the troubleshooting found the root cause: tight cable ties were slowing the current flow on the CAT5 cable!
I'm not making this up.

Of course, the fault was somewhere else.
Cat5 (especially if it was 5, not 5e and had gigabit Ethernet running over it) is sensitive to crush and over-tight bends as both disturb the twist and therefore impedance thus causing reflections.

Don't forget that 1000mbps Ethernet involves sending a 250MHz signal down twisted pair, it does get a bit tetchy sometimes.
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Thermal Imaging / Re: Flir i60 doesnt boot, windows error message
« Last post by Chanc3 on Today at 12:23:09 AM »
Apologies, totally forgot about this. I've uploaded a .zip file of everything I could get off the camera.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sg2kg7zfn0ns9lk/FLIR%20i50.zip?dl=0
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Beginners / Re: Safety concerns small 5V power brick
« Last post by Back2Volts on Today at 12:17:35 AM »
In the US, and probably elsewhere, you can buy replacement AC outlets with built in USB power ports. That is what I would try to use.


http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Dimmers-Switches-Outlets-Outlets-Receptacles/USB-Port/N-5yc1vZc33aZ1z0r7vs

       I have one 2xoutlet/2xUSB from EATON at hand.   Rated 3.1A.  It has the back shell held with star screws, so it could be open and possibly put wires to the back.   That said  I have never seen switch/USB plug combinations.   All I have seen are outlets/USB.   
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