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Beginners / Re: What book to buy as a beginner?
« Last post by mtdoc on Today at 03:53:43 PM »
Ignore anyone telling you that you need higher level math to do electronics.     Most DC circuit analysis can be done with basic algebra. AC will require some trig and complex numbers. Nothing beyond that is needed for most electronics. Even professional EEs often don’t need more. Dave himself has said as much.

And the truth is most practical electronics doesn’t even require algebra or trig or complex numbers. A good non-math based introduction to basic circuits followed by lots of hands on building, testing, and  measuring will get you far and may be all you ever need. And there’s always Spice, Matlab, etc if needed. Sure delving heavily in to theory requires lots of math -but who wants to do that other than university students or those working on the bleeding edge?  Some people do well with a math based approach but many don’t. Don’t confuse mathematical and theoretical knowledge with practical real world understanding (true for many fields). Great enginners may often have both, some may only have the later, but none have only the former.

If you enjoy math - that’s great -lots of electronics textbooks focus on the math based theory (written by university profs who are selectively drawn to that approach).

The Art of Electronics is unique in that it is at a higher level but is a non math based approach. Some of the books by Bob Pease (I’m thinking of his Troubleshooting Analog Circuits) and some of the writtings of Jim Williams (essays and app notes) are also good examples of this. There’s a reason why the non-math based approach of Horrowitz, Hill, Pease and Williams are so enduring.

At a more basic level, I that agree that Pratt’s Make: Electronics is a good hands on entry level book. Quan’s Electronics From the Ground Up is also good, with lots of hands on examples.
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Beginners / Re: Capacitor that looks like a resistor?
« Last post by Jwillis on Today at 03:51:38 PM »
Looks like a capacitor according to this schematic.

Well, looking at this service manual (https://www.retro-kit.co.uk/user/custom/Commodore/C64/manuals/C64C_Service_Manual.pdf), I see a cleaner version of your snip from the schematic on the second page 21(there are two page 21's in a row). However, down on the second page 27(ditto), there's the same circuit showing C83 as 82pf. Page 17 explains there are multiple versions of the C64 boards. Guess which one the OP has?

Is there a Prize?
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Beginners / Re: is this a typical high and low side switching circuit?
« Last post by Jwillis on Today at 03:49:30 PM »
That looks single phase.2 diodes in that configuration is a full wave rectifier.The Fets are switches.
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It's a very interesting looking site. I notice your web site lists "manufacturing partners". What is the nature of your relationship with those companies? Will you be including companies in your price comparison based on special deals with them?

- Bob
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I'd aim for a Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope and forgo even getting something secondhand, it's sort of like a waste of money in your position gambling on secondhand gear. They are on special at $350 shipped at the moment from tequipment.net and with the Eevblog 6% discount code that should drop another $20 off.

See if you can hook a few family members into contributing long term loans of $50 here and there and forgo or call in early birthday and xmas presents. You're almost a 1/6 of the way there already.

The scope comes with extra features to unlock more bandwidth and signal decoding. This is more than enough if you are keen on learning to carry you through your studies. If your not using the gear to learn though they become paper weights.

For a multimeter upgrade to something in the $20-50 range will land you something ok for low voltage (non mains level) electronics. Then a Chinese LCR/ESR tester perhaps with a signal generator for around $20.

That will set you up test equipment wise for around $400.

Focus on the soldering station as lower priority, but the Hakko FX888D is a good entry level model. Soldering is all about technique and preparation you don't need to spend big money to get a decent result but buying anything else again is a bit of a waste as these stations are so affordable in the US.


I'd argue it's the other way around. You can't afford to mess around with buying new gear when there's excellent second hand stuff to be had. You have to be smart about what you buy, buy you can get like new or near new stuff at a very nice discount. Buying new means throwing away at least 20-30% the moment you pay, while second hand gear has already lost the overhead of buying new, though you can get much nicer deals if you pay attention.

And borrowing money? That's a terrible habit to get into if you're already on a knife's edge.
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Hi Raven, welcome to the forum. This link is to Marco Reps YT video regarding the following link to the actual buy page for this vary affordable oscilloscope, which I own as well and highly recommend for a beginner. Later, when you are a fancy EE engineer making Megabuck, you can buy one of the high end scopes.  >:D



The scope:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABMK58K0827&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-EC+-+Test+%26+Measurement-_-9SIABMK58K0827&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwp_UBRD7ARIsAMie3XYyNtLbIWm1rvzKeiHOxc0Xb48HXVLxijnVkNIpUKAEDTNuYD2CjbMaAglhEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You will be received well here, as most of us are professionals and work with other professionals of all genders.

Hope this helps, unfortunately, I have only the equipment needed to support my hobby and can't give any up. You have a good start on tools, the soldering iron that you have should suffice until you can get a newer/better one, and Walmart meters are fine as long as you don't start fooling with high voltage such as mains level voltages. You will learn as you go exactly what tools that you are needing the most and get them one at a time. Hand tools are a personal choice and you will understand what you need as you go along.

Edit: Adding some other YT links that may be helpful:
http://www.youtube.com/user/reppesis/videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/ContourCorsets/videos?disable_polymer=1
http://www.youtube.com/user/w2aew/videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzml9bXoEM0itbcE96CB03w/videos?disable_polymer=1
http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth/videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab/videos
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Test Equipment / Re: East Tester LCR ET3500
« Last post by shteii01 on Today at 03:36:07 PM »
check your link
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Beginners / Re: How many multi-meters do I need to start?
« Last post by Lightages on Today at 03:32:24 PM »
It is amazing to me how people recommend old analog scopes to people who want to do only audio work. You might have a chance of getting something that works, but also a chance where nothing is within spec anymore. Yes a person who has $50might benefit from an analog scope because there isn't another choice, but there sin't anything a modern analog scope can't do. OK, some might be pretty shit for update rate on X-Y mode, but that is it. Everything else is far superior in a modern DSO to any old analog scope.
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Beginners / Re: How do I get this battery to work?
« Last post by skillz21 on Today at 03:27:27 PM »
How old is the battery pack.Even lithium batteries wear out.Even new ones can can fail prematurely if not kept charged to at least 70% before storing .No battery likes to be left uncharged for extended periods of time .New packs should be properly cycled for extended battery life.Even if one cell is failing the board will sense that and won't charge.It's a safety feature.You can replace the cells but in most cases it's much cheaper just to trash it a get a new one. Is that  wire broken in pic 3?That's the temp sense.
The pack is a few months old, and it was charged to over 70% when the laptop died. The wire slightly broke when I tore open the covering, but the pack was not functioning before I opened it. Anyway, I desoldered the cells and scrapped the PCB, I want to use the cells in parallel for a power bank.
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Microcontrollers & FPGAs / Re: Small Lab (SLab) release
« Last post by rstofer on Today at 03:21:47 PM »
On the idea of putting the analog PCB under the uC board:  This will leave ALL of the topside pins available in both formats.  There is no reason to bring the digital pins out to the analog board because they can be reached from the top side.
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