Author Topic: Broken Metcal SP200 Handpiece( SP-HC1 ) - Updated  (Read 3695 times)

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Offline coldframeTopic starter

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  • Math isn't lie.
Broken Metcal SP200 Handpiece( SP-HC1 ) - Updated
« on: June 16, 2015, 01:15:01 pm »
Hello everyone!

I have one Metcal SP200 soldering station

The Shield sticking out of the Handpiece Cable. (See Attatched Photo #1,#2)
work pretty well but,  This is nerve racking work, I orderd new handpiece :)

BTW,
I've  found a suitable replacement Cable (CANARE L-2T2S, Belden 1800F)
I tried to  replace a New Cable but it’s too Hard to me,
how to disassemble ? (See Attatched Photo #3)
Is there anyone that has experience in repairing ?
I need some help..

Thanks,
coldframe


Update
One half is disassembled, while the other is still needs help (See Attatched Photo #4)

Reference
CANARE L-2T2S
http://www.canare.com/ProductItemDisplay.aspx?productItemID=57
Belden 1800F
http://www.belden.com/techdatas/metric/1800F.pdf
Broken Metcal RFG-30 soldering base unit fixed
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/broken-metcal-rfg-30-soldering-base-unit-fixed/15/
METCAL SP200 soldering station
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/metcal/pdfs/sp200_manual.pdf
« Last Edit: June 17, 2015, 11:23:03 am by coldframe »
 

Offline BurningTantalum

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Re: Broken Metcal SP200 Handpiece( SP-HC1 ) - Updated
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2015, 06:16:17 am »
That's interesting- I didn't know that the 470kHz SP200 handpiece had a twisted pair cable; I assumed that it was a double shield co-ax like the 13.5 MHz RM3E.
The RM3E comes to pieces by unsoldering the screen where it enters the brass fittings; it looks worse than it is. As posted elsewhere on EEV the inner had usually parted near to the entry to the handle. Maybe this will be the same.
Good luck,  BT
 

Offline stargun

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Re: Broken Metcal SP200 Handpiece( SP-HC1 ) - Updated
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2015, 05:35:06 pm »
Hi,

May I ask for the proper method of disassembling the 3 pin connector end of the cable?
Is it a must to remove the brass insert from the plastic housing, or I can just pull the 3 pin tuchel connector with the attached cable from the brass part by pressing some hidden pin?

It seems that I can move the cable with the connector part itself a bit axially inside the brass and plastic assembly.
My handpiece is brand new, but I'd like to change the connector and it would be preferable not to cut away the original ending.

Thanks for the help guys!
 


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