DIP40 socket desoldering – how do you do it properly? Fluke 8060A repair

[frozenfrogz]

Dear all,

as it turns out, my newly acquired 8060A has some nasty circuit board corrosion going on. It is not capacitor leakage, but some corrosive water soluble media found its way inside the housing through the display cutout. Since I would love to not just drop it in the »salvaging spare parts« bin, but rather repair it, I need to completely disassemble the upper part of the PCB including the DIP40 socket.

Solder-sucking-pump and solder-wick will only give me a lot of pain and most probably not work, so my question is: How do you do it properly?

The only other option I see is breaking away the plastic, desolder the single contacts and drop in a new socket later on.

Can anyone suggest a procedure that maybe lets me keep the original socket?

Kind regards,
Frederik

[wraper]

Unless you have  a desoldering station, this:

The only other option I see is breaking away the plastic, desolder the single contacts and drop in a new socket later on.

[ModemHead]

I've done it several times with nothing more than your average solder-sucker and a Hakko 936 set for about 350C on a bevel tip.  I think the key is adding fresh solder, and keeping the tip clean and tinned.  If the hole fails to clear, add more fresh solder and go again.  When the hole is clear, wiggle the pin with pliers, but if it doesn't break free easily, have yet another go at it.  It just takes some patience.

The 8060A has a quality PCB and seems to withstand the rework quite well.

[Ian.M]

Nudge the pin with a small probe or jewellers screwdriver to see if it flexes or is still attached to the hole wall.  DO NOT wiggle it with pliers as that's a good way to tear the plating out of plated through holes.  If its still attached and the hole is already pretty clean, try a small drop of flux and reheating just the pin while pushing it away from the hole wall, then just the pad while holding the pin centered with the probe so it doesn't re-adhere.  Do NOT attempt to remove the socket until all pins pass the nudge test except as a last resort, where if its stuck with one or two pins connected to heavy tracks or pours, you can re-heat them alternately and 'walk' it out of the board.

[daybyter]

Ask someone in your area, who owns a desoldering station (hint: retro-computer owners are good candidates to ask).

Plan b: get lot of flux and some hollow needles for desoldering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8PCS-Lots-Hollow-needles-desoldering-tool-electronic-components-Stainless-steel-/222283079822?hash=item33c11aa08e:g:wnsAAOSwPCVYAsov

[nali]

If it's a turned-pin type socket the pins are quite brittle, so a fairly quick but destructive option is to cut out the socket's bridges effectively leaving 2 x 20 pin SIP sockets, then gently wiggle each one till they break off. The stubs can then be individually sucked out with a solder sucker after applying some flux or fresh solder.

Only so this with all 40 pins fully soldered or you'll risk tearing the plating in the holes.

[james_s]

Doing it properly requires a vacuum desoldering station or gun, there are some workarounds that involve breaking apart the socket and removing the pins separately but that can be risky. Perhaps post your location and find a member here who lives near you? I'd be happy to desolder it for you but I'm halfway around the world.

[kripton2035]

may be try this :

[bitseeker]

If you can't get access to a desoldering station, but there's a bit of space between the PCB and socket, you can use a soldering iron and a can of compressed air. Melt the solder and blow it through to the top side of the PCB. It can get messy, so wear safety glasses and prep the area accordingly.

It's still better to use a vacuum-desoldering or hot-air station.

[retiredcaps]

I've done it several times with nothing more than your average solder-sucker and a Hakko 936 set for about 350C on a bevel tip.

Modemhead shows the entire process here

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/

The 8060A has a quality PCB and seems to withstand the rework quite well.

Yes, I have desoldered leaky caps on the 8060A and the pcb can withstand some abuse.

[retiredcaps]

It is not capacitor leakage,

With the 8060A, you have a better than 50% chance of the capacitors leaking from the bottom bung.  You will not see it via visual inspection.  Desoldering and inspecting the bottom is the only way.

See

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8060a-refurbish-questions/

[james_s]

May as well replace the capacitors anyway, if they're not leaking now they will be eventually.

[frozenfrogz]

Thank you all for the bunch of replies!

I actually already desoldered some of the caps before posting and they are going to be replaced with Nichicons eventually, though the ones I desoldered all were fine – no leakage, still holding their nominal values.
Going to find someone with a desoldering station might be the best solution and it should be very doable here in Aachen (universities and institutes next door).
Maybe there is also some usable gear in the small ads...
Desoldering through-hole components always gets me a little disgruntled, so getting some proper gear might actually be a forward-looking project.

Regards,
Frederik

[bitseeker]

Desoldering through-hole components always gets me a little disgruntled, so getting some proper gear might actually be a forward-looking project.

When I first got my Pace MP-1 vacuum desoldering station, it was a night-and-day improvement. But, I still use a spring-loaded solder sucker for large, monolithic jobs. Right tool for the job, etc.

Looking forward to seeing your 8060A up and running.

[daybyter]

Hint: check forum64.de . There are quite a few members with a zd 915.

[David Hess]

With a little bit of practice, a powered vacuum desoldering tool will do such a good job that the DIP socket will drop off of the board.

[perieanuo]

Cut them all. I used a proxxon machine, if you are good with your hands you can cut 10 sockets in 30 min then you desolder the pins that way the pcb stays clean. Method with pump is risky regarding to pcb quality... Best regards, pierre

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