I'm currently attempting to fix a wireless mic with a broken switch (and a butchered pcb someone else tried to do something with... a giant pipe welding gun from the looks of it...)
I finally found an equivalent switch, but it is non-stock with about a 3 month lead-time and a minimum order of 15840, just a bit more than I need.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to find an equivalent? Biggest problem is all the switches on digikey, mouser, etc. are listed by mounting type, voltage rating, etc. but not physical dimensions, which means you have to go dig into data sheets and hope you get lucky. Half the switches listed on digikey don't even have data sheets.
The switch I found that seems to be the same dimensions as the original is this one
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k-components/SS12F28G6NS/SS12F28G6NS-ND/3862027 and that datasheet can be found here
http://www.ck-components.com/products/switches/product-details/Slide/SS (switch I want is on page 12, SS-12F28-G NS).
The original switch has JP stamped on both outside ends, and 430Z on one side (doesn't seem to be anything on the other side). Maybe some switch aficionado knows the original manufacturer?
I'm thinking of just getting a switch without the outside metal can that has the same pin spacing and actuator height and reusing the can from the busted switch with some epoxy or CA or something, but I'm not sure how well that will end up working. They decided to use the metal can to bridge ground from one side of the pcb to the other (and by side I don't mean front/back, I mean left to right on the same side, it's only a single sided board). I can always just put a jumper and skip the metal case all together, but that seems like it would lack mechanical stability for the switch.
And for anyone curious, the mic in question is an audio-technica ATW-T86S. They ran about 6 wires out the bottom of the mic to a small pcb that has this switch, an led, two small caps, and a few SMD components (which they put black paint or epoxy on so you can't ID the parts
) on it. Seems like a stupid design but I'm don't know much about hardware design. I may be back trying to figure out how to ID the power transistor on it if that got killed by the guy that butchered this thing.