Kenmore Dryer Issue

[tnthunder]

Hi,

I need some help. Here is my Dryer issue.

I have a Kenmore gas Dryer.
Model: 110.C72072100 (MDF. for Sears Canada inc.)

It stop spinning. I check the belt and it was ok.
When I spin the drum it would spin but not easily.
I took the belt off the dryer, and tried to spin the motor but it wouldn't spin. I assumed it was motor seized.

My original motor is Part #: 3395654 (see image: IMG_8220.JPG). Replacement part is 279787.

I bought a motor off eBay. Part #: 8528320 (see image: IMG_8216.JPG, IMG_8218.JPG)

I installed the motor I got off eBay but when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't spin. Nothing happens. No sound or humming noise.

I double checked all the connections again, but still wouldn't turn on.

Do I have to do anything with the wiring?

I can really use your assistance and help.  Please help.

Thank you,

RP

[ScottM]

Have you checked any voltages? Are you sure you are getting power to the dryer? You need to trace the voltage through the circuits to the motor. If you post pictures of the wiring diagram for the old and new motors someone might be able to help.

Thngs you need to look for : broken or disconnected wires especially around the timer. There are thermal overload switches that can go bad and cut power all the time. Usaully the door has a safety cutout switch. Is it working properly. Is the timer mechanical or electronic? It needs to be checked for output.

As for the drum that spins but hard. There are nylon (or some such) guides on the front that can wear out and cause friction. Most often (especially if it squeks) the problem is the center mounting point in the back. It is often a bronze bushing that gets dry and needs to be greased with high temp grease. A word of caution - the single mounting screw inside the drum is often a LEFT hand thread. Be sure to turn the right way.

As you say this is a gas dryer be very careful working with this and do not for any reason disconnect any gas fittings unless you are very qualified to do so. Sparks and gas make for bad things. A guy across town spread his house over most of the block last year. Himself also.

Good luck.

[Seekonk]

Kenmore is pretty generic design. All dryers I've see have two idler wheels in the back that the drum rests on.  Every few years I have to remove them, clean and re grease

[tnthunder]

Thank you guys for your replies.

I haven't don't a voltage test on the motor as I don't know how to bypass the door relay.

I know the dryer is getting power cause the electronic board and the timer is working, as well as when I open the door the light is on.

I have posted the pictures of the wiring of both the old and new motors.

I have cleaned up all the rollers and other parts that play a role in the drum spinning. now its spinning as it should (by hand).

@ ScottM. I agree with you that I shouldn’t be touching anything related to the gas. I am not certified and the last thing I want is something major to happen.

If I can’t figure out how to get this thing working I might have to look at getting someone in to help fix the issue.

let me know what you guys think.

what about the thermal fuse? would/could that have an issue?

[hermit]

I took the belt off the dryer, and tried to spin the motor but it wouldn't spin. I assumed it was motor seized.

It sounds like you are on the right track.  Was it still seized after you removed it?  The blower could be clogged but that should have been apparent when you took the motor out.

You can simply jump the door switch.  On newer GE dryers they had an idler pulley switch so that if the belt broke the motor would stop too since the heater circuit runs through a set of contacts in the centrifugal switch.  This ensures the heater goes off if the motor stops.

[tnthunder]

It sounds like you are on the right track.  Was it still seized after you removed it?  The blower could be clogged but that should have been apparent when you took the motor out.

You can simply jump the door switch.  On newer GE dryers they had an idler pulley switch so that if the belt broke the motor would stop too since the heater circuit runs through a set of contacts in the centrifugal switch.  This ensures the heater goes off if the motor stops.

.

yes the motor was still seized after I removed it. Cleaning the motor and blower didn't help.

without putting back the whole dryer (drum and door) back together is there a way to test just the motor?

[IanB]

without putting back the whole dryer (drum and door) back together is there a way to test just the motor?

If it were me I would provide power to the motor while sitting on the bench. Make sure the motor is held firm so it can't jump away when it starts, and make sure you have the hookup wiring secure and safe from short circuits.

[hermit]

It sounds like you are on the right track.  Was it still seized after you removed it?  The blower could be clogged but that should have been apparent when you took the motor out.

You can simply jump the door switch.  On newer GE dryers they had an idler pulley switch so that if the belt broke the motor would stop too since the heater circuit runs through a set of contacts in the centrifugal switch.  This ensures the heater goes off if the motor stops.

.

yes the motor was still seized after I removed it. Cleaning the motor and blower didn't help.

without putting back the whole dryer (drum and door) back together is there a way to test just the motor?

On newer GE's which I'm most familiar, I was able to set the front panel to one side while leaving the door switch connected.  If you can't do that then maybe you will need to jump the door switch.  If it has the idler switch to check for a broken belt, I was able to simply hold that in place with my foot as I hit the start button.

[Gregg]

Just an observation from the pictures you posted:
The idler pulley has a micro switch on it (the two blue wires) which probably disconnects the motor.
But, it also appears that the motor end of the idler pulley lever engages the motor to stop it mechanically if the belt breaks.
Some clothes dryers have a schematic glued to them somewhere that would help you figure out how to bypass safety devices to test the new motor.  As previously stated, be careful doing this.

[james_s]

I would check the thermal fuse. I don't remember if it affects the motor or not but if the motor seized the thermal fuse is very likely to have blown. Usually it's in the duct near the heating element.

Most dryers have a schematic tucked inside the control panel too so have a look, that should give you clues. These things are not very complex machines, clothes dryers haven't really changed much inside in 50 years.

[NiHaoMike]

These things are not very complex machines, clothes dryers haven't really changed much inside in 50 years.

Apart from some minor details like the mechanical thermostat and moisture sensor being replaced with solid state versions. And while obviously not the case here, for the last 10 years or so, there are clothes dryers that use dehumidifiers to work more efficiently, either Peltier or compressor based. I would also expect some simpler ones to have heat exchangers as a cheaper way to boost efficiency.

[tnthunder]

If it were me I would provide power to the motor while sitting on the bench. Make sure the motor is held firm so it can't jump away when it starts, and make sure you have the hookup wiring secure and safe from short circuits.

good news is the motor works, I bypassed the Broken belt switch. Connect terminal #4 to the overload connection (i think thats whats its called, see image). I took a regular power cord and cut one end off, and touched touched the end to Terminal (#4, Blue) and Terminal (#5, white) see image and the motor span.

so i am assuming the motor is good.

[tnthunder]

I would check the thermal fuse. I don't remember if it affects the motor or not but if the motor seized the thermal fuse is very likely to have blown. Usually it's in the duct near the heating element.

Most dryers have a schematic tucked inside the control panel too so have a look, that should give you clues. These things are not very complex machines, clothes dryers haven't really changed much inside in 50 years.

This would be my next test. I agree with you that its simple and not too complicated, but this not being my field and trying to fix it myself (like to learn new things, plus it fun) it makes it a little complicated. lots of reading and leering from good people like all you that have replied.

I think the thermal fuse might have been blown. how can I test the thermal fuse? do I have to have the motor plugged into the dryer or can I test in on a bench?

[james_s]

You can easily test the thermal fuse on the bench, just like you'd test any other fuse or wire for continuity. Just use a multimeter set to measure resistance, or one of those testers that has a battery and a small light bulb.

[tnthunder]

You can easily test the thermal fuse on the bench, just like you'd test any other fuse or wire for continuity. Just use a multimeter set to measure resistance, or one of those testers that has a battery and a small light bulb.

So I tested it there is no continuity on the Thermal Thermistor Fuse but there is continuity on the thermal fuse.

so I am going to see if I can buy the parts and replace them and hopefully that will do the trick.

if there is anything I am missing please let me know.

[james_s]

You could try bypassing the thermal protector *temporarily* in order to verify there are not other problems. If you do this and the dryer works, please do not use it until you have a proper replacement part.

[Seekonk]

Maybe, you should analize the problem befor throwing more parts at it.  Remove the back of the console. there is always a schematic wrapped up there.  Never power up the motor with the heater connected, it will burn out.

[Cyberdragon]

Maybe, you should analize the problem befor throwing more parts at it.  Remove the back of the console. there is always a schematic wrapped up there.  Never power up the motor with the heater connected, it will burn out.

I don't see how that affects it, it's a gas heater.

[hermit]

Maybe, you should analize the problem befor throwing more parts at it.  Remove the back of the console. there is always a schematic wrapped up there.  Never power up the motor with the heater connected, it will burn out.

I don't see how that affects it, it's a gas heater.

Well, you only do it long enough to see if the igniter comes on anyhow.  Having the 'flame thrower' ignite without the proper air flow pulling the flame  through the chamber isn't good either.

[james_s]

Flame thrower is a good description of it. The first time I worked on a gas dryer I was surprised to see just how they work, it's just a gas burner pointed down a tube that goes around the corner and into the back of the drum. When it lights off it looks like a small version of a hot air balloon burner, the exhaust going directly into the drum and then from that it passes out the vent. I figured there would be a heat exchanger like in a gas furnace but nope, at least it sure didn't look like it.

[tnthunder]

Hi all,

So wanted to give you all an update.

First I want to thank you all for your responses and helping me with my dryer issue. you all have helped a lot.

The dryer is working now.

After lots of testing with the meter, it turned out the issue was the broken belt switch.

The older belt switch was working on my old motor so I replaced it with that one. and dryer is back in business.

I have learned a lot from you guys....keep up the good work.

Once again thank you all……until next time

[Cyberdragon]

And the award goes too...

Gregg!

[hermit]

Maybe not.  The belt switch is on the idler pulley, not the motor.  The one on the motor is the centrifugal switch.

[james_s]

Good job, it's always nice to succeed with something like that. It pains me to think how much perfectly good stuff gets simply thrown away when something simple like this occurs. I personally cannot even imagine just throwing something away without at least opening the cover to see what broke.

[tnthunder]

Good job, it's always nice to succeed with something like that. It pains me to think how much perfectly good stuff gets simply thrown away when something simple like this occurs. I personally cannot even imagine just throwing something away without at least opening the cover to see what broke.

Yes I agree with you on how good things get thrown out on simple issues.

I like to open things and learn on how to fix it. (my AC stopped working last summer, I called in a few people to look at it and they all told me I had to replace it. I looked into replacing it and got quote for a new one. $3000 -$6000 was a lot to pay specially when I didn’t have to money. after reading and doing a few tests. issue was a low voltage capacitor that kept on blowing up)

If there is a major cost of fixing the issue then at the end of the day I would feel good for throwing it out knowing I at least tried. 

[james_s]

HVAC guys always want to replace the whole system for virtually any fault, usually citing that it's "old" and there goes $5k-$10k. Often times the only thing wrong is a motor run capacitor, main contactor, sometimes a pressure switch or other minor issue. They make a whole lot more money installing new systems though and most of those guys don't really know how to troubleshoot anything.