[...] for no obvious reason, the V+ and V- rails are now at +/-27V. [...] I'm sketched out by the power supply. I don't trust it not to catch on fire or something.
Somewhere in the neighborhood of +/- 27V is correct:
Bridge rectifiers create +/-26V for the HF (satellite) amplifiers [...]
Look at the power supply schematic. 40VAC goes in, then is bridge rectified and filtered. 40VAC * sqrt(2) ~= 40 * 1.414 ~= 56.6 Vpk-pk; 56.6/2 = 28.3Vpk. Subtract out a little bit for the bridge rectifier diode drops and half the ripple amplitude, and factor in some sloppy tolerances, and you'd get ~26-27V.
Also, I don't think that there's anything to really be sketched out by on the power supply itself; as I've indicated before, it's pretty straight-forward for the +/- V_HF rails and V_LF rails; these are just bridge rectified & cap-filtered transformer secondaries.
What
is a little sketchy is how the +/- 15V rails are generated for U1 (quad op amp) on the LF (subwoofer amp) board--see my attached image. +V_LF (+50V) is dropped to +15V through a 1k 2W resistor (R16), which gives (50-15)^2/1000 ~= 1.23W(!) power dissipation. The same thing is done for the negative 15V rail. I measured R16 and R17 using a thermal camera, and these get to ~260 deg. F (130C). This
is technically within spec both in terms of the resistors' power handling capacity and what a typical 2W THT resistor is rated, as max temp ratings for 2W 1000 ohm resistors seem to go from 155C on the low end to 235C on the high end on Digi-Key. But, it would be less sketchy if the designers had perhaps mounted these resistors to the rear panel for some heatsinking, but instead, because these are mounted off of the PCB, they conduct heat to the PCB through their leads, which is why the LF boards on all of these units look darkened.
Look like Q9 is bad. [...] I'd like to fix the transistor just to see if that was the problem
I would strongly suggest that you test other transistors on the amplifier for shorts. You can do this in circuit as long as your DMM puts out a relatively low voltage in resistance or continuity modes. The classic failure mode seems to be that Q6 fails, which I presume then is what takes out one or both of the power transistors Q9 and Q10. I've already "been there and done that" with my own unit; I've tried replacing just Q9/Q10 and quickly found that the new Q9/Q10 would blow again immediately after applying power. I tried this (stupidly) a couple of times (with the same result each time) only to end up damaging the PCB to the point of no repair, at which point I constructed a new (copy) PCB to replace the old.