Micro USB port replacement - Verizon Ellipsis 7

[Yardstick]

I know what the short answer to this question will be, but I'm going to ask anyway.  Could anyone help me find (or point me in a direction that will help me find) the correct micro-USB port (individual SMD part) or the port daughter board (if there is one) for a Verison Ellipsis 7?  I was asked to help repair/replace one since I have the right tools.  The existing port has an intermittent connection due to wear or a break (it's not dirty).  I think the quickest answer would be to grab a new cheap tablet, but that's not a preferred answer for the people asking me to fix it. 

[RayRay]

Please provide a picture of it (so I'll have a better understanding of how it looks like, which would would help me locate a replacement for it)
But set replacement aside, I think you might be jumping to conclusions. It's possible that the connector itself is fine (maybe you just need to resolder it so it'd make better contact!) or it could also be a problem with the USB cable they use (or an issue with their USB port/computer)
Replacing the connector may not necessarily fix the problem. You could do a simple checkup to determine if there's something wrong with it though!
Take a micro-usb cable, cut it a bit after the connector (as in, a bit after it connects to the tablet), strip the insulation off it (and insulation of the individual wires too) and then measure the resistance from end to end (wire>point on the USB connector), if everything reaches from end to end (and nothing is shorted) then the problem is not the USB connector (but regardless, resoldering it might be a good idea just to be on the safe side)

[wraper]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-Charging-Charger-Port-for-Verizon-ELLIPSIS-QMV7A-QMV7B-7-Tablet-USA/272107600173
Can buy this one or find the same connector for cheaper.

[Yardstick]

Thank you both!  I have looked and looked for information on this thing and only today after I posted did I find this handy guide:  https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Verizon+Ellipsis+7+Charging+Port+Replacement/74618

I'm about 1500 miles away from the tablet currently, but some diagnosis has been done already.  Different cables exhibited the same behavior.  It will charge if there is some pressure on the cable at the point of entry on the tablet, but otherwise it is intermittent at best.  I suspect there is a broken connection internally, but it could be a broken solder joint.  I'll have access to the tablet for about a week next month to try any repairs, so I would like to be prepared if I need to replace the port.  It looks like I can get the whole daughter board off ebay for ~$20-25.  I would like to use my fancy new Hakko to do the repair, though.   

[wraper]

Apparently there is a small board. The issue might be not in the microUSB connector at all. But for example in FPC cable/connector. And wiggling USB wiggles that board as well and contact intermittently appears.

[wraper]

I would like to use my fancy new Hakko to do the repair, though.   

Hakko what? soldering iron or hot air? You will have a hard time to replace this connector with just a soldering iron. Not impossible but will be hard to do without destroying the board (lifting the pads).

[Yardstick]

It's a Hakko FX951.  I can see how it would be difficult with only that.  Might need a second iron or like you said, hot air (that I don't have). 

[Armadillo]

Use a shear cutter and carefully snip away the micro USB into smaller manageable pieces and then de-solder it out, always taking the extra care not to use brute force and accidentally life up tracks or pads. Especially the 4 through holes legs, snip it into individual leg for easy de-soldering, then the rest will be a piece of cake.

[jericho.ar]

Yes, hot air would be easier. If it is a possible one off Ayoue has one for 75-100 depending. I bought one to fix some pcie slots on some MB's. and I would place some heat shrink on the ends of tweezers, if the are metal. I learned the hard way by getting distracted.

[wraper]

Use a shear cutter and carefully snip away the micro USB into smaller manageable pieces and then de-solder it out, always taking the extra care not to use brute force and accidentally life up tracks or pads. Especially the 4 through holes legs, snip it into individual leg for easy de-soldering, then the rest will be a piece of cake.

While shipping the rear legs, you will lift the pads very easily.

[RayRay]

I'm with wraper on this one!
I wouldn't attempt to cut off any part of it, as it can potentially cause damage.
And I don't think hot air is essential for this particular job.
It can definitely be done with a soldering iron (with enough skillset)

[wraper]

Thinking about it, if you have something like Wood's metal or other low melting point alloy, you could apply it to all joints and then heat the whole connector, then remove it. Also if you have a big tip, you could set a high temp and put a big solder blob between the pads and connector metal shell, so everything is heated together. Put a solder blob top of the connector and heat everything altogether. Applying Pb/Sn solder will make the job easier as it has lower melting point than lead free which was used during manufacturing.

[Armadillo]

Use a shear cutter and carefully snip away the micro USB into smaller manageable pieces and then de-solder it out, always taking the extra care not to use brute force and accidentally life up tracks or pads. Especially the 4 through holes legs, snip it into individual leg for easy de-soldering, then the rest will be a piece of cake.

While shipping the rear legs, you will lift the pads very easily.

If you "Shipping" it with your old hands, then you most likely would lift up the pads. You would need to "snip" it, like taking ever small bites at a times. This has been rated as the most practical methods. To those who had failed or not done it before, they just worry on and give you the false impression.
http://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/article/how-to-desolder-an-electronic-component



http://hackaday.com/2007/11/08/how-to-replace-a-mini-usb-port-on-your-cellphone/

[Armadillo]

If I may add, HOT air and soldering iron require a level of skills to handle it. It is easier said than done. And snipping/cutting by far is the easiest [if you are careful enough]. You can see example of the amount of damaged that can be done by handling the hot air or soldering iron. It does requires a level of skills and training.



[picture borrowed from another posting.] for purpose of sharing.

[wraper]

Use a shear cutter and carefully snip away the micro USB into smaller manageable pieces and then de-solder it out, always taking the extra care not to use brute force and accidentally life up tracks or pads. Especially the 4 through holes legs, snip it into individual leg for easy de-soldering, then the rest will be a piece of cake.

While shipping the rear legs, you will lift the pads very easily.

If you "Shipping" it with your old hands, then you most likely would lift up the pads. You would need to "snip" it, like taking ever small bites at a times. This has been rated as the most practical methods. To those who had failed or not done it before, they just worry on and give you the false impression.

What do you think happens when you cut the leg  ? It's not like connector stays in it's place. It is pushed away from the cutters (away from top of the PCB) and lifts the pads. Think about the shape of the cutting edge of those cutters from your first photo. It's not like it cuts flush on both sides.
EDIT, BTW those cutters are not rated for anything like this, you can easily damage them, especially if connector turns out to be made from steel.
And second photo is not even about cutting the connector off the board.

You can see example of the amount of damaged that can be done by handling the hot air or soldering iron. It does requires a level of skills and training.

This photo does not seem to be anything to do with hot air particularly. I don't see any damage as well, just a ton of flux.

[Armadillo]

And if the through holes is through multi-layered board, it's even worse.... You can read the following post, even some of the regulars are having consideration. You will risk damaging the inner layers tracks.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp545-repair-desoldering-the-nvram/

The important is, if the component is entirely surface mounted, then hot air may be the choice, but in your case, there are legs through holes and the metal surfaces act as heat sink. The legs may not be straight. Its even more difficult.

But it's remain entirely your choice.

[Armadillo]

At 1:40, see how cutting is done.

Regarding the low melting solders;
The pro makes de-soldering so easy and with the back ground music, so relaxing, but it's does requires a fine level of skills in handling the soldering irons, otherwise neighbouring components will be gone with it..... 

[wraper]

The important is, if the component is entirely surface mounted, then hot air may be the choice, but in your case, there are legs through holes and the metal surfaces act as heat sink. The legs may not be straight. Its even more difficult.

Have you ever soldered anything with hot air? And if soldered with soldering iron they don't act as a heatsink by your logic? Actually as hot air heats significant area of the board, it becomes less of an issue compared to soldering iron, not to say hot air will easily heat all of that small board.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp545-repair-desoldering-the-nvram/

That is DIP28  , don't compare it with micro usb connector. Not to say you link irrelevant post as well as adding irrelevant pics earlier.

[wraper]

At 1:40, see how cutting is done.

Yeah, done this way to not damage that plastic switch with a hot air  . And it wasn't nearly something like microUSB, also it is very easy to lift the pads when cutting legs of such small parts as well. I replaced hundreds of such connectors, many thousands of other SMD parts, please don't tell be how this is done in a stupid way.

[Armadillo]

At 1:40, see how cutting is done.

Yeah, done this way to not damage that plastic switch with a hot air  . And it wasn't nearly something like microUSB, also it is very easy to lift the pads when cutting legs of such small parts as well. I replaced hundreds of such connectors, many thousands of other SMD parts, please don't tell be how this is done in a stupid way.

Yeap you must have done it in a stupid way.

[wraper]

At 1:40, see how cutting is done.

Yeah, done this way to not damage that plastic switch with a hot air  . And it wasn't nearly something like microUSB, also it is very easy to lift the pads when cutting legs of such small parts as well. I replaced hundreds of such connectors, many thousands of other SMD parts, please don't tell be how this is done in a stupid way.

Yeap you must have done it in a stupid way.

You still haven't shown a single case of successfully cutting MicroUSB connector off the board.

[Armadillo]

Let's focus on Yardstick, He certainly do not have the level of soldering skills as you obviously. Therefore, buying the replacement module would be the best option for him.

[wraper]

Let's focus on Yardstick, He certainly do not have the level of soldering skills as you obviously. Therefore, buying the replacement module would be the best option for him.

As I said before, something like wood's metal, Rose's metal will do for removal. You also can get chip quik alloy (seem to be Cerrolow 136), buy it's very expensive. That board is quiet expensive, so replacing connector makes sense.

[Samogon]

Removing failed connector one doesn't care about its state one cares only about pads and surrounding components. So it would be easier to remove it by melting it with lots of alloy.

[Yardstick]

I could remove the daughter board and cut the larger through hole legs with a dremel.    I do need some practice soldering on things this small.  I have done some small stuff with crappy irons in the past.  Now I have the advantage of the smaller wand and closer tip to finger distance on the Hakko.  But all the electronics have gotten smaller too!  I killed a little FPV camera for a quadcopter recently.  I still can't identify the problem I caused.  I was soldering something like 26 or 28 gauge multi-strand wires through tiny little through holes with the smallest possible through hole pitch and must have shorted something somewhere.   

[Armadillo]

  Well done;
If you do regular smd works, get yourself a loupe or if you can, a "Stereo" microscope, and be amazed with what you didn't see before. Don't waste your money on any digital ones though. But if one off repair, a cheap Chinese loupe will do.

Recommended video for you.

[wraper]

I could remove the daughter board and cut the larger through hole legs with a dremel. 

I don't think PCB will survive without a damage.

[Yardstick]

This is very definitely a one-off operation for me.  Most of what I solder is RC or motorcycle related.  If I can't find a way to replace that mini-USB connector, or if I disable tablet, it will make more sense to just buy a new tablet rather than acquire equipment that I would use very infrequently.