tensile strength solder for repairing small band saw blade

[coppercone2]

I watched the saw video, if you make that aluminum sanding fixture, make sure to screw that metal into a big wooden block that is long if you feed it into the bandsaw when making it. I am sure most people that have bandsaws know this but its an easy way to loose a finger or break a hand to cut something shorter then it is tall. Or use a hack saw or horizontal saw of some kind. I would recommend screwing it to the end of a 4x4 to make the cut with the saw you are fixing with the same blade.

[beanflying]

also, what meter is that from HP that you fixed? I can't read the label.

Still a work in progress but a little more detail here on the 740B https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hewlett-packard-740b-dc-standard-digital-voltmeter-(and-740a)/msg1419955/#msg1419955

[geggi1]

Her eis how its done.
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/bandsawblade/fixingbandsawblade.htm
I think it would also be able to jon a band saw blade with a spotwelder.

[notsob]

This may be of use to you, Tom shows how he makes up his own blades and the jig he made to do it

[Dubbie]

Her eis how its done.
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/bandsawblade/fixingbandsawblade.htm
I think it would also be able to jon a band saw blade with a spotwelder.

I would never join a blade with a spot welder.
Sport welds aren't strong enough for this application.

[Gregg]

I would never join a blade with a spot welder.
Sport welds aren't strong enough for this application.

Commercial bandsaw welders are basically spot welders and when properly utilized will make as strong of a weld as possible; that is how almost all of the factory made blades are joined.  See the process at 7:15 in this video:
Unfortunately good commercial blade welders are quite expensive and it takes practice to properly anneal the blade after welding.

[IanB]

There is a difference between "spot welding" and "resistance welding" as a process, even though they both rely on resistance heating.

Spot welding is literally what it says, creating little spot welds joining two overlapping pieces of metal. Spot welding may be used, for example, for attaching metal tabs to batteries.

Bandsaw blades are joined by resistance welding, where the two ends of the blade are butted up together and the whole blade is heated to melting point by passing a current through it. The weld is not confined to a small spot, but covers the whole length of the join.

[David Hess]

2% silver low temperature solder is the strongest of the tin/lead solders but that is not saying much.  It would be entirely too weak for a bandsaw blade.

The internet says to use silver solder (hard solder)--needs a MAPP torch to melt it. Grind the ends to be joined at a taper and use a jig to keep the blade aligned and straight when soldering. Use the appropriate flux. Grind smooth after the joint cools.

Silver brazing solders with about 50% silver work just fine with a common propane (or butane) torch, and apparently are strong enough for this application.  I have done plenty of silver brazing but never on a bandsaw blade.

[coppercone2]

a mad man decided to deal with aluminum braze in a large scale test



so I was right about benzomatic being more fluid. defiantly looks like you can get a bad brand to mess you up hard core.