I'm trying to source a decent cap tester, don't do this for a living so didn't want to spend mega bucks -
It depends what aspects of the caps you're wanting to test. For general pass/fail ESR verification, the so-called $20 transistor tester (some models are much cheaper nowadays) works fine.
For leakage testing, your current method with a bench power supply and DMM is fine, provided you can achieve the working voltages of the caps being tested.
but I also need a decent through hole desoldering tool
Lots of threads about these. I picked up a used, portable Pace Microportable MP1 some time ago for less than $100. Works great. Availability of particular brands/models in your area could be significantly different, of course.
- can caps etc really be verified in circuit successfully - i.e. leakage
It depends on the circuit. For example, if you don't notice that the cap under test is in parallel with several others, you won't know which one is leaking when it's fully in-circuit.
- I currently desolder them then use a multimeter and bench PSU but only have a manual pump and braid so it takes forever - most of the stuff in these computers is older through hole type.
Just desolder one side and test. No need to completely remove them. Also, although not a substitute for leakage testing, a preliminary check of the cap's ESR will give an indication if it's suspect.
Am I correct in the belief that capacitors degrade if they don't see power for extended periods or is this an unwarranted fear - aka power on and be damned.
It depends on the type of capacitor and what's in it. Aluminum electrolytics rely on a thin oxidized layer inside. Over time, this can degrade and may be able to be restored by slowly reforming the capacitor. However, given how inexpensive they are these days, it's better to change them if they leak DC. Also, electronics from the era of the
Capacitor Plague will be at risk of damage from leaking electrolytic caps, especially if they've just been sitting without a charge.
I wish I knew what load to add - I have no schematics or supporting docs so it would all be guesswork based on component ratings - I guess I could inject 5 / 12 / 16 VDC or whatever is expected assuming that I can work it out - my biggest fear is the PSU dying and taking something out on the way really so disconnecting the boards is a good idea.
You can start with small loads. If there isn't enough for the power supply to start, it'll just sit there. Note that many computer power supplies expect to see a power good signal (i.e., a particular voltage level on that pin) before they'll start.
For the voltages, the power supply should have a label as to what they output. Once you've successfully gotten the supply running, you can measure what voltage comes out of which pin and replicate them with your lab power supplies.
The Caps range from 1982 on, the newest is 20 years old ...
Really old caps can be fine for many decades, believe it or not. I have some power supplies from the 60's that are just fine. It really depends what kind they are, when they were made, and how they were used. For example, electrolytic capacitors in switching power supplies, beside heatsinks, and in other high-temperature or high-ripple current environments have much shorter lifespans.