Author Topic: Repair : Old Keithley 2000 teardown and fix (Read 49402 times)

TiN · « **Reply #50 on:** May 21, 2015, 12:20:29 pm »

Quote from: VintageNut on May 20, 2015, 06:31:53 pm

I do not seem to be able to include any attachments. Is there a post minimum to post a picture?

You can upload anything you want here for hosting about T&M gear

No limits.

VintageNut · « **Reply #51 on:** May 21, 2015, 03:38:17 pm »

Hello eas. It looks to be a pristine model 2000. I finished checking it out. Frequency counting works. Temperature measurement works. So, I am happy to have it in the collection.

I never use RS232 when controlling an instrument for my own amusement. I bought a KUSB-488B used last year for $200. I also bout two generic GPIB cables.

At some point I will take off the cover and inspect for capacitor leakage. Not sure if it is possible to see leakage without removing a capacitor.

TiN · « **Reply #52 on:** May 21, 2015, 03:51:04 pm »

Added firmware A13 files, thanks!

Smith · « **Reply #53 on:** May 21, 2015, 04:30:31 pm »

I've ordered a new ADM202 and some EEPROM chips. I want to fix the RS-232 and upgrade to A20. Thankfully I have a willing colleague with a cal lab at my job.

VintageNut · « **Reply #54 on:** May 21, 2015, 04:58:47 pm »

Quote from: Smith on May 21, 2015, 04:30:31 pm

I've ordered a new ADM202 and some EEPROM chips. I want to fix the RS-232 and upgrade to A20. Thankfully I have a willing colleague with a cal lab at my job.

*jealous* I am looking for a place to calibrate some or all of my gear.

TiN · « **Reply #55 on:** July 21, 2015, 12:55:54 am »

Managed to get few thermal images of K2000 guts (way more on images link).

Few parts heating up abnormally, so it's not 100% fixed/functional unit just yet, even tho it can measure signals quite accurate.
Sometimes still go wacky measuring resistance.

TiN · « **Reply #56 on:** July 22, 2015, 05:21:26 pm »

Got replacement switch, yey!

neslekkim · « **Reply #57 on:** September 04, 2015, 07:30:26 pm »

The screws that hold the case on these, two countersunk ones under the case, do anyone know the dimensions?
It looks like M3 screws, but I wonder if the threading isn't metric but imperial (or what it's called), I don't want to force m3 screws into it, if it's wrong....

And, the handle for this ting (I have the 2015, but I guess it's same as 2000?), how does it look like, and how is it attached to the body?, I first thought it was similar thing as the handles for Agilent meters, but it's an big open area on each side of the meter, not at all similar to the agilent meters.

3roomlab · « **Reply #58 on:** October 22, 2015, 10:04:39 am »

just curious, does anyone replace the tantalum caps as well when doing a fresh run of capacitor replacement? (there is 6x 7343 and 11x 3528 SMD, i am "renewing" a used K2015).

TiN · « **Reply #59 on:** October 22, 2015, 11:45:31 am »

Unless they are blown from voltage/current spike, they rarely fail. There is no liquid to get out from them. I keep them original, if visually they are looking good.

3roomlab · « **Reply #60 on:** October 22, 2015, 05:04:46 pm »

tnx for the tip and the useful information in xdev.com

nidlaX · « **Reply #61 on:** October 22, 2015, 10:34:58 pm »

Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix.

3roomlab · « **Reply #62 on:** October 23, 2015, 02:34:12 am »

Quote from: nidlaX on October 22, 2015, 10:34:58 pm

Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix.

quick measure using a caliper (mm). but i think this maybe a "inch" based screw due to the threads.
length tip to tip =13.5mm
unthreaded portion = 6mm (diam 2.55mm)
threaded portion =5mm (diam 3.55mm)
the threads when compared to a HDD screw fit on each other nicely, so i have to say its a 6-32 thread

**edit : after an alcohol bath ... the old used K2015 is now all shiny

nidlaX · « **Reply #63 on:** October 23, 2015, 02:36:41 am »

Quote from: 3roomlab on October 23, 2015, 02:34:12 am

Quote from: nidlaX on October 22, 2015, 10:34:58 pm
Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix. [emoji14]alm:

quick measure using a caliper (mm). but i think this is a "inch" based screw due to the threads.
length tip to tip =13.5mm
unthreaded portion = 6mm (diam 2.55mm)
threaded portion =5mm (diam 3.55mm)
the threads when compared to a HDD screw fit on each other nicely, so i have to say its a 6-32 thread

Awesome, thanks a ton!

I think worst case, I can use a normal screw of the correct length and either grind off a portion of the threads or leave it as is.

TiN · « **Reply #64 on:** April 30, 2016, 11:18:22 am »

Well, time has come, I might do some work on this poor abandoned 2000. Got also 1L of hydrogen peroxide from cosmetics shop to try whitening panel. It's like a cream consistency, should be easier to apply on surfaces, as I don't want just to dip everything into liquid.

Now need just to have sun come out.

SeanB · « **Reply #65 on:** April 30, 2016, 11:30:02 am »

As you are in Taiwan simply go to the harbour and find a mercury vapour fishing light and fitting. 400W mercury lamp will give out quite enough UV to do the job.

TiN · « **Reply #66 on:** April 30, 2016, 04:21:01 pm »

And also plenty of unhealthy ozone and health risks.
I would not suggest operating 400W UV lamp anyone without very clear understanding of possible hazards.

Also harbour is somewhat far, so I'd rather just hold to a sun.

Macbeth · « **Reply #67 on:** April 30, 2016, 06:25:01 pm »

Hmm... so we're going to see TiN with a suicide blonde mop of hair and a nice all over tan?

My 2000 could do with that de-yellowing treatment too. Watching thread...

SeanB · « **Reply #68 on:** April 30, 2016, 06:33:01 pm »

Not UV lamp just a regular coated MV lamp. Will give enough UV to do the bleaching, but not enough to cause you damage, as the glass and phosphor will absorb most of it. just provides a lot of bluish light, though a clear UV lamp or a UV fluorescent disco lamp would also work.

Macbeth · « **Reply #69 on:** April 30, 2016, 07:00:07 pm »

Would the type of UV lamps in a PCB exposure box work? Because they didn't do a thing for me when trying to erase some EEPROMs.

HighVoltage · « **Reply #70 on:** April 30, 2016, 09:15:34 pm »

It looks like a fluorescent UV Light Tube should work.
Look here:
How to fix yellowed plastics on old computers!

Only question is, where to get this type and concentration of hydrogen peroxide creme in Germany?
Would be nice to try on my Keithley 2400

ManateeMafia · « **Reply #71 on:** April 30, 2016, 09:29:13 pm »

@HighVoltage

Here in the US, Sally Beauty carries some items that might be available in their locations in Germany.

http://www.mystore411.com/store/listing/792/Germany/Sally-Beauty-Supply-store-locations

I also have some that I have yet to try. Maybe TiN can give some convincing results?

nidlaX · « **Reply #72 on:** April 30, 2016, 10:32:23 pm »

Quote from: TiN on April 30, 2016, 11:18:22 am

Well, time has come, I might do some work on this poor abandoned 2000. Got also 1L of hydrogen peroxide from cosmetics shop to try whitening panel. It's like a cream consistency, should be easier to apply on surfaces, as I don't want just to dip everything into liquid.

Now need just to have sun come out.

Unfortunately, that process is only a temporary fix. Yellow will come back in a short period of time. You can also get blotches of uneven color if you're unlucky.

Macbeth · « **Reply #73 on:** April 30, 2016, 10:41:02 pm »

I've heard it's only temporary - but the temporary is in the order of years. Indeed, much like the original equipment!

It doesn't seem to onerous to give the bezels this kind of treatment every few years - I mean, if you are the tidy sort you would probably remove bezels to get at all the crumbs, grease, (tar & nicotine if you are so inclined) and other environmental crap, take the opportunity to clean the switches and touchpads even on modern gear after a few years of use.

...and if you were planning on sporting a shocking blonde hairstyle and gorgeous bronzed body anyway, then the visit to the beauty parlour to obtain the chemical stuff is neither here nor there

macboy · « **Reply #74 on:** May 02, 2016, 05:02:36 pm »

TiN,
Be careful not to rub the silkscreen writing or logos after soaking in the hydrogen peroxide. They won't get bleached, but they will be softened to the extent that any rubbing can remove them (don't ask me how I know

). After drying, they will harden up again.

To others: the type of hydrogen peroxide commonly used for this is usually bought from a beauty supply shop, where they sell salon supplies like hair dyes, waxing supplies, etc. I use "40 vol" concentration, quite strong.


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Author Topic: Repair : Old Keithley 2000 teardown and fix (Read 49402 times)

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