[Fixed] Repair/Restoration of a Fluke187

[MosherIV]

Hi

I have just got a Fluke187 from ebay. It was sold as spares or repair but was said to be working except for the input jacks being removed. The pictures did not show the ugly truth 


The input jacks have sheared off and someone has cut them in half
The fuses are missing 
The top half of the case will not stay on because the plastic for the screws have sheared off 
Someone has made an attempt to fix the screw fixings but failed 
The screws for the top 2 fixings are missing 
The rubber casing is coming off bcause the glue has failed 
No leads were supplied (but then they did not say included leads) 

The good points
Batteries were included.
Meter does work, volts and ohms have been tested ok.
Its a Fluke 

More to come

[MosherIV]

More picture of the outside.

Does anyone have suggestions on what will remove the marker pen please?

The battery plate is ok and there are screws in the lower half of the meter.

[MosherIV]

As I said, I tested the meter and it does work. I connected some wire to a voltage source and touched the wires on the pads where the input jacks should be.

Initally, it did not work. Then I realised that the meter has probe detection, this basically works because the input jacks have 2 halves, when no probe is inserted the 2 halves are not joined. When a probe is inserted, the 2 halves are joined and shorted together.

I shorted the 2 pcb holes for the jacks together and bingo the meter would measure voltage and resistance.
 

[MosherIV]

I said the upper half of the meter does not hold together because it is missing the screws. It is missing the screws because the plastic for them is wrecked.

Someone has already tried to fix it but failed 

My first job is to try and drill out the plastic/glue/resin for new screws.

[MosherIV]

The meter has suffered from the well know problem of the input jacks shearing off their pins to the PCB.

Mrmodemhead has a full blog about the problem and how to rebuild them
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/

Here are some pics of the jacks:

I think someone cut the assembly in half to try the good jacks instead of the bad ones, just something I would think of trying. Do not know why they did not leave it that way.

I have been looking for replacment jacks but the postage makes the around £40 from the USA. Does some one have a input jack assembley they want to give/trade/sell to me please?
I will contact Fluke UK but I would imagine it will be no cheaper 

I guess I am going to have to try and dig out the plastic and try to solder replacement leads to the assembly. I know, it probably will not work but I have nothing to loose at this point

[MosherIV]

Once I have sorted the jacks and screws, cleaned up the case, the last problem is the rubber case is coming off the plastic.

Pics attached.

What would people recommend to reglue it back on?
I can easily get: superglue, gorila glue, contact adhesive, bostick, pva, double sided carpet tape

[VK5RC]

I don't have any specific advice for glueing that type of case,  have you seen the sticky topic that might cover some of your issues,  some great posts 

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vintageclassic-renovation-techniques/

Don't forget the big guys like Fluke often keep a back catalogue of parts,  sometimes can make a repair look like new.  Good luck,  Rob

[VK5RC]

I found something that may be of use see reply 72 of https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/keithley-179-trms-dmm-repairrefurb/50/

[MosherIV]

Hi

So I spent a little time cleaning the exterior. Started by gathering what cleaning materials I have around the house.  I do not have pumace hand cleaner (recommended by Mrmodemhead) but I have toothpaste, which is mildly abrasive (and leaves and minty smell  )

I started by dissassembling the parts.  The battery tabs take quite a bit of fiddling to get them out, made good use of my new spudging tools 

Used warm soapy water to scrub the plastic, toothpaste to scrub the rubber.  The toothpaste actually works but it did not come out perfect, still minor signs of dirt.

I wanted to do bot front and back halves at the same time but I could not get the rotary dial off the front. Does anyone know how to get the rotary switch dial off without breaking anything?

[MosherIV]

Before and after pics

You can see what a big different on the battery plate 

[ModemHead]

Good job on the restoration so far. 

I've never had any success completely removing Sharpie markings on the yellow overmold. It will lighten up with alcohol, but never completely go away.  If the police were to raid my place, they would think I have stolen Rick's meter, Rodger's meter, and the Aerospace Dept's meter, amongst others...

For the screw post problems, I have had some success on old 70-series meters by dremeling off the old broken plastic and affixing some 6-32 threaded spacers with epoxy plastic repair putty.  The advantage with the older models is that once you put them back into their holsters there is little strain on the screws to hold the case together.

[MosherIV]

Thanks VK5RC, I have looked at the threads. The main one I have been looking at is the Mrmodemhead web site.

Mrmodemhead, thanks. I will use the alcohol like you suggested first, then I thought why not try bleach/chlorine. I think it does not affect plastics (most) and does not affect rubber. I will give it a try on a little bit first.
Yes, I thought of using something from these
http://uk.farnell.com/captive-nuts
but you are right, I can just use a hex threaded spacer, got some somewhere.
In the mean time, still plan on drilling out the mess and trying to use self tapping screws.
Something like these
http://uk.farnell.com/tr-fastenings/3-020prst30tc1d/screw-pozi-thread-forming-m3-x/dp/2474943
If i cannot get original Fluke screws.

MrModemHead, how do I get the control knob off so that I can clean the front half please?
I did not want to force it and break something.
Does it have something todo with the white hex nut?

[ModemHead]

MrModemHead, how do I get the control knob off so that I can clean the front half please?
I did not want to force it and break something.
Does it have something todo with the white hex nut?

It's not a hex nut, it's actually the plastic (boo!) hexagonal shaft attached to the knob.

Turn the front cover upside down and place on top of two pieces of wood or something.  Place the supports close to the knob, but clear of the knob.  Then take an unshrouded banana plug, place it in the hole in the middle of the hex shaft.  Press hard.  The knob will pop out the other side.

To reassemble, notice that the shaft is keyed, and start it back into the rotor.  Then just squeeze it all back together.  It will snap back together easier than it comes apart.

[MosherIV]

Thank you MrModemHead, I will try and get the front selector knob off so that I ca  clean the front half.

In the mean time here is a quick pick of the cleaned back against the front. The Battery plate is the original yellow, the rubber on the back did not come out pristine (slightly different shade of yellow compared to the plastic) but is much better than it was, as can be seen fron the top half.


I also soldered the current input jacks back on, started to try and hack the volt/ohm and common jacks, post pics of that when I can take them.

[Monkeh]

Grab yourself a tub of Swarfega. It works wonders on most soft plastics. Also on skin.

[MosherIV]

Thanks again to MrModemHead. Yes, the dial just poped out using a 4mm banana plug 
Managed to do it by just holding it and pushing with the end of a lead with a banana plug.
Pics attached

Is petroleum gel ok for lubricant when I reassemble it?

Thanks Monkeh, I forgot I have a tub of swarfega under the sink 
Will give it another go.

After doing some more searching and reading, it sounds like Fluke UK are little help when it comes to parts. In another thread SJ Electronics are recommended here in the UK.
I will give them both a call tomorrow with my shopping list.
I started hacking my broken probe jacks but did not do anything tonight since there may be a possibility of geting new jacks quickly 

[MosherIV]

It will be Wed when I next get a chance to continue the resturation. Probably more cleaning.
Must do a little bit of sanding down the plastic and rubber in readiness of glueing.
I think I will use epxoy resin.

After a little reading, bleach is not a good idea for rubber, ok for most plastics.

[ModemHead]

Is petroleum gel ok for lubricant when I reassemble it?

Silicone grease is preferred to avoid softening plastic or damaging the rubber O-ring.  However, speaking anecdotally of course, I have used petroleum jelly in a pinch to lube plastics for years without dissolving anything yet. YMMV

[MosherIV]

Ok, have to get some silicone grease, turns out that Maplins is cheaper for a tube of electrolube silicone grease than Farnell, first time I have ever know Maplins to be cheaper

Did not have a chance to do anything on the meter last night.

Just had a go at drilling out the screw holes
Before pic


After pic


Also, been on the phine to SJ electronics, got a quote for replacement jacks

[MosherIV]

I ended up having some time on Thu night so I cleaned the top half of the case.

Pics
Before



After


I forgot to put the battery cover on this pic. Could not get the marker out at all.

Here is the other side of the meter.


The rubber is much cleaner but still a different shade to the PVC. Tried swarfega hand wash, made no difference.

[Monkeh]

Swarfega wins again.

[ModemHead]

Swarfega wins again.

I gotta have some of that stuff! 

[MosherIV]

I have also been trying to source the missing parts. Still working on input jack and screws.
It appears that Fluke will not sell them in small quantities, they onky sell in packs of 100.

How many people in UK/europe would be interrested in buying Fluke meter screws from me?

[MosherIV]

I have been busy getting other missing bits.




1 pair of original Fluke leads.
Silicone grease.

[MosherIV]

So today, I started the process of glueing the rubber case back on. I decided to use epoxy resin and to do it in 2 sessions. I realised that to get the rubber aligned on 3 sides was just not going to work, so I am going to do it in 2 sessions.

Here are some pics



I masked off the fron just in case of glue over spill on the from or front side rubber, makes it ugly.



Here is the meter in a clamp where I am holding the rubber flush to the body.