My Tek485 failed recently with at first a fuzzy display about 25mm square in the centre of the screen and then total disappearance of the beam. Balance node indicated a possible short on the HV supply, and I still had good low voltage supplies. Shortly after, the inverter shut down and wouldn't start, cycling at about 10Hz. After disconnecting the input to the HV transformer (per manual) inverter still wouldn't start and balance node indicated a problem with one of the LV supplies. So perhaps two problems.
A check of the LV outputs from the power transformer indicated that it was OK but there was no -15V signal on the downstream side of the diode bridge from the +/-15V supply. Not too surprising to find a dead 100uF tantalum capacitor (C2019 on the power board), as I've had these fail before. Replaced it temporarily with an electrolytic and the LV supplies came back to life and the inverter started. However, reconnecting the HV input led to inverter cycling again (at about 3Hz this time) and indicated an HV short. While it was cycling, a resistor in the autofocus control system started to smoke. Replacing the resistor didn't fix the problem.
Decided to check the basics of the -3kV supply on the horizontal amp board (while it was off!). Turned out there was an open HV fast rectifier diode (CR1656) tied to the overheating resistor (circuit extract attached showing the miscreants). Replacing the diode brought back the inverter and CRT display, but there was very low intensity on A&B sweeps unless the intensity was wound up high. Focus was also poor. Replaced the resistor a second time and all came good - crisp display, good focus and normal intensity control. Good to have this fine machine back to life again.
I'm inclined now to bite the bullet and refurbish this scope more thoroughly by replacing all the tantalums and some of the other vulnerable bits. Seems likely the tantalums will continue to fail progressively. I'm inclined to just replace like with like but perhaps I should substitute a more modern cap type for the tantalums or, alternatively, fit higher voltage tantalums? Would appreciate advice on what, if anything, might be suitable tantalum replacements or whether like-for-like is a sufficient strategy - and any pros/cons. I'd hope to not throw the calibration too far out of whack - none of the minor repairs I've done so far have thrown it off. It's pretty impossible for me to calibrate it fully here or send it south for calibration at a viable price.