Worst case of Lithium battery leakage I've ever seen!

[Jwalling]

Passive ISA CPU board is beyond repair; at least 1 pin on a flatpak gone, traces and pads eaten and corroded.
Nasty...

[Jwalling]

CPU is like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192539449993?

Instrument is a Ruska Instrument Corp. 7010-715. Some sort of pressure controller.

Battery is a QTC85. If I had any equipment with this battery in it, I'd replace it ASAP!

[ElektroQuark]

If the equipment is badly needed, maybe it can be fixed.
The IC package can be sanded (with a DREMEL or equivalent) from the top of the pin until the remaining rest of the pin inside is exposed. Then, solder a wire to it.
It's doable.

[Jwalling]

If the equipment is badly needed, maybe it can be fixed.
The IC package can be sanded (with a DREMEL or equivalent) from the top of the pin until the remaining rest of the pin inside is exposed. Then, solder a wire to it.
It's doable.

Chances are that the corrosion has crept into the package, and the other pins and pads are pretty shaky looking. For $350 or so, it's better to replace the board and have it be reliable. Luckily there's some around to be had.

[bob225]

you should see some of the arcade machines when the batteries leak, the only thing that left in the board, that's repairable - if you can get a replacement chip

[Rasz]

$20 plus 20 minutes of cleaning and soldering
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PC87311AVF-PC87311-National-Semiconductor-IC/360475665531

[LeonR]

Is there any "leak-proof" (to a certain extent) battery or battery shell? It saddens me when I see good old tech destroyed by a leakage.

[Rasz]

Is there any "leak-proof" (to a certain extent) battery or battery shell? It saddens me when I see good old tech destroyed by a leakage.

sure, old RTC chips with battery encapsulated in plastic on top od DIP carrier dont leak afaik

http://www.retrotechnology.com/herbs_stuff/dallas_1.jpg

[floobydust]

I've seen many Tadiran lithium batteries do that, the stainless steel BEL case corrodes at the laser weld seam.
This is around the 5 year mark in product using the TL-5186, TL-2186, TL-4986 all discontinued Jan. 2015 and replaced by bigger TL-2450. I don't know how that will last or if the seal design has been fixed.

I did send pics to Tadiran because it is dangerous and not meeting their lifetime claims.

[Jwalling]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/231588655776?

Got it for $125 with an offer. 

[james_s]

I've seen worse. I have a Mac IIfx motherboard that suffered a lithium battery leak, multiple SMT components vanished entirely, a bunch of traces rotted out. Even the case was damaged, all the sheetmetal shielding rusted badly.

I scrapped a Mac SE/30 that had suffered the same fate, motherboard destroyed and the metal frame was all rusted.

[helius]

I've seen worse. I have a Mac IIfx motherboard that suffered a lithium battery leak, multiple SMT components vanished entirely, a bunch of traces rotted out. Even the case was damaged, all the sheetmetal shielding rusted badly.

I scrapped a Mac SE/30 that had suffered the same fate, motherboard destroyed and the metal frame was all rusted.

Did they have Maxell Japan lithium cells?

[james_s]

I've seen worse. I have a Mac IIfx motherboard that suffered a lithium battery leak, multiple SMT components vanished entirely, a bunch of traces rotted out. Even the case was damaged, all the sheetmetal shielding rusted badly.

I scrapped a Mac SE/30 that had suffered the same fate, motherboard destroyed and the metal frame was all rusted.

Did they have Maxell Japan lithium cells?

I think one of them did, the other I don't know. It was several years ago that I got them, the batteries long since disposed of.

[amyk]

That's a lithium thionyl chloride cell --- much nastier chemistry than typical lithium primary or lithium ion. Be careful with the contents!

[helius]

Yes, SOCl₂ is toxic, but despite that the cells were used in desktop computer clock/cmos applications for decades.

[KL27x]

The IC package can be sanded (with a DREMEL or equivalent) from the top of the pin until the remaining rest of the pin inside is exposed. Then, solder a wire to it.
It's doable.

Certainly doable, if the corrosion doesn't go too deep. I have done this.

Here's another trick you might like. I keep around a bit of very thin single sided copper clad  (0.007-8" thick, single sided... used for RF shielding and such) with carpet tape on the back. Cut out a tiny rectangle and stick it to the top of the chip. Score a line partway down the middle to make two thermally isolated pads. Now you can wire a jumper between the sanded pin and one pad. Then after putting the chip back in, you can add a second jumper between the copper clad and the PCB without disturbing the delicate connection to the side of the chip. That is a lot easier than trying to flow them both at the same time and trusting the connection you can't see... or physically push on to test, because the wire between pcb and chip is so darn short and solder-laden that it has the flexibility of a tree trunk.