Author Topic: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review  (Read 20014 times)

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Offline Wim_L

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Re: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review
« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2012, 01:32:52 pm »
It's still a lot better than meters with an unfused 10A range!

Just remember the fuse is a final safety net, not something you expect to replace all the time. With good measurement habits, blowing a meter fuse should be a rare event.
 

Offline T4P

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Re: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review
« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2012, 06:05:30 pm »
Like a fluke fuse thread somewhere on the forums,
You can have big caps suddenly discharging and *POOF* goes your fuse, at 5 pound a piece it ain't cheap
 

Offline Wim_L

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Re: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review
« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2012, 08:11:14 pm »
Mistakes happen, but shorting big charged caps with your multimeter on current mode probably shouldn't be standard practice.
 

Offline M. András

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Re: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review
« Reply #28 on: September 23, 2012, 08:31:10 pm »
if you want to measure huge surge/peak currents then use a small resistor in series and measure the drop accross it or use a clamp meter. that multimeter fuse its not for shorting caps. and if its part of a circuit and by any means its not a spot welder then i dont want to be that circuit which has 10A+ surge currents
 

Offline T4P

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Offline tooki

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Re: Agilent U1252B Teardown/Review
« Reply #30 on: August 20, 2017, 10:20:37 am »
Wow - do you REALLY have to strip the meter down that far, just to change a fuse? Hmmm >:(
Nope, he took it apart wrong. You leave the 6 screws in place that hold together the two boards, and instead just remove the two screws that hold the display board to the housing. Then the board sandwich comes out as one unit, with the fuses easily exposed.
 


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