Benchtop fume extractors vs. floor types with hoses.

[krm]

I've been looking at a lot of specifications for solder fume extractors, but I can't find an answer to a simple question.

How effective is a benchtop fume extractor, compared to a floor type (usually with a hose and nozzle that extends up to the bench)?  Is there anyone who has used both types, and can give a comparison?

I've been using a Weller WSA350 benchtop unit for years.  It looks similar to the Pace fume extractor that is on Dave's bench.  However, it's a bit cumbersome, the noise is annoying, and it doesn't work at all when you are soldering in a tight space.  It can also block overhead lighting.

I've also noticed that if I'm soldering for more than a few hours, there are still a lot of fumes released into the room with the Weller.  Probably because it only has a single stage filter.

Lately I've been considering a floor/hose type, like the new Hakko FA-430.

Everything about them (except the price!) seems like a winner:
- They are on the floor, so the noise isn't a problem.
- The hose is flexible, so you can position it directly over your work, or even into a piece of equipment you are repairing.
- They don't take up any bench space.
- They have multiple filter stages (3), so more particulates will get trapped.
- They look cool!

The only real issue is price.  I can buy a nice oscilloscope for the price of the Hakko FA-430!

Thanks for any feedback.

-Keith

[nctnico]

You could DIY something. My previous employer used a piece of flexibele exhaust:
http://www.simons-uitlaten.nl/contents/media/u056350.jpg
and a fan to blow the fumes to the outside.

You could mount something like this to make the flexible part over your bench look nice:
http://www.simons-uitlaten.nl/contents/media/u235100.jpg

[krm]

I think the DIY approach would work well for my basement bench, as it's really easy to vent something outside.  I already do this for PCB etching by placing a large fan on the window ledge, and letting it suck air out of the room.  It's also very effective at removing dust when I'm sawing wood!

However most of my soldering is done in a converted attic workspace, and there is no direct access to the outside, so fans tend to just circulate the air around the room.

I think the key is really having multiple stage filters.

-Keith

[Circuitous]

Perhaps something like this DIY setup?

Just some Loc-Line hose and a bathroom fan.  Maybe add a box at the fan intake with a charcoal filter over it?
http://corgitronics.com/2013/11/03/fume-extractor/

[Fsck]

I think the key is really having multiple stage filters.

Agreed.

what I'd suggest (and also one of the internet's projects I'm trying to duplicate but adapted for an apartment, ie something *quiet*) is something like: http://betteq.com/index.php/blog/purifier/

however, trying to find very thick (4-5") filters locally is a bitch for me, will probably have to go order online: but I'd go with a 4 filter setup. intake --> large particle cheapo prefilter -->  some mid/highrange pleated electrostatic filter --> DIYed carbon filter --> another mid/high range pleated electrostatic filter --> HEPA filter.

if I were in your situation, and dealing with working in an attic, I'd use the above as the room air cleaner and use a smallish flexible duct as the intake above your bench attached to a loose activated charcoal collection in a 5 gal bucket and then have some sort of fan sucking the solder fumes through the bucket of charcoal.
or if you have space, do something similar as the room air cleaner, but simply with 2-3 DIYed carbon filters and an electrostatic pleated filter right before the fan to minimize dust.

[krm]

Perhaps something like this DIY setup?
Just some Loc-Line hose and a bathroom fan.

Wow, that's the first DIY fume extractor I've seen that didn't look like a hack job.  The Loc-Line really looks functional.

I like the idea of moving the hose to the work, rather than moving the work to the fan.  I do a lot of repair work (mostly synthesizers and studio equipment), and I'm often soldering 'inside' of a chassis or cabinet, and it's not possible to use a benchtop fan in those cases.

-Keith

[nanofrog]

I've been thinking of converting an old air purifier lying around into a fume extractor. Definitely been interested in the 2.5" segmented hose (Loc-Line or Jet-On).

ModularHose.com carries it, and even sell kits (non ESD only in kit form). Way cheaper than buying it from Hakko, Weller, ... (~1/3rd the cost or so).

[Rigby]

Perhaps something like this DIY setup?

Just some Loc-Line hose and a bathroom fan.  Maybe add a box at the fan intake with a charcoal filter over it?
http://corgitronics.com/2013/11/03/fume-extractor/

I saw this when it came up on Hackaday.  Filtering is key, and when you add filters, you add flow restriction, so lots of filtering needs a fan that can overcome it.  In my limited experience, bathroom fans are more about volume than pressure (or suction) so I'm not too sure how well a bathroom fan will cut it if you add enough filtering to actually clean the air.  Venting to the outside isn't an option for me in winter.

[nanofrog]

Filtering is key, and when you add filters, you add flow restriction, so lots of filtering needs a fan that can overcome it.  In my limited experience, bathroom fans are more about volume than pressure (or suction) so I'm not too sure how well a bathroom fan will cut it if you add enough filtering to actually clean the air.  Venting to the outside isn't an option for me in winter.

This is what I'd suspect as well. Thinking a squirrel fan out of a large window air conditioner or small blower unit from a permanent HVAC system would be more appropriate, assuming one can be located/cannibalized from an otherwise broken unit.

Also, I've been looking at the filters used in the professional units, and say with the Hakko HJ3100, the HEPA filter is rated for 0.3um (98% efficient). IIRC, the HEPA filters used with air conditioners, room purifiers, and vacuum cleaners (another possibility, but probably far too loud), may not go that small (3 - 5 um IIRC). So proper filters would further restrict air flow, requiring a larger fan (keep the rpm down so it doesn't sound like a shop vac).

Checked what I'm intending to cannibalize (here), and it seems the HEPA filter actually is 0.3um. Looks like I got very lucky.   

[G7PSK]

You could use a water bath to trap the fumes perhaps using an oil bath air filter with water instead of oil.

http://www.expertsmind.com/CMSImages/783_Oil%20Bath%20Air%20Filter.png

[Prime73]

Just a thought.Would there be a problem to use central vacuum piping to get the fumes out? i.e. get a diy fume extractor with a small blower connected to central vacuum pipes?

[Rigby]

Just a thought.Would there be a problem to use central vacuum piping to get the fumes out? i.e. get a diy fume extractor with a small blower connected to central vacuum pipes?

If the central vacuum isn't powered on at the time, you'd wind up with positive pressure in the system, and that may not fare well for the rooms with vac ports, depending on how well those are sealed.  If the pressure your system creates can push open any of those panels then you're just moving the fumes from your area to another.  If pressure is allowed through the normal flow path, it'll go through the filter(s) and bag(s) and wherever the system exhausts stuff normally.

If everything is sealed tight when the central vac system isn't turned on, you'll just pressurize the piping and an equilibrium will be established.  No more fumes will get pulled away.

If you plan to do soldering with the central vac system turned on, then yes, it'll work well, but it might be a noise annoyance for those in the house.  Also, check the owner's manual for the system, it may have some expectation that you're not going to run it for more than, say, 15 minutes at a time.  Be aware of any limitations like that.