Author Topic: Best solder for you?  (Read 39859 times)

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Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Best solder for you?
« on: February 19, 2013, 10:27:36 pm »
Hi

I'm using a cheap solder. Yeeees, it's not bad but it can't win a little oxidation of copper.

Today i've tried "stannol" solder, 60/40 made in germany... It's awesome! It stick to everithing! Also 20yo component, but it leave a little more residues than cheap mine. (alcool washable)

We all now Dave use multicore.

What did you use?
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline flolic

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2013, 11:35:37 pm »
For years I was using Stannol 60/40 or 60/39 Cu1 and it was great solder.
Now I have new batch of 0.5mm Fluitin 1532 "no clean" solder, 60/38/Cu2, and it is even better than Stannol.
It is real joy to work with it, best solder I ever had.
 

Offline nanofrog

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2013, 11:42:48 pm »
Kester for me (44 or 186 rosin core, 63/37 or 60/40).
 

Offline Psi

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2013, 11:59:11 pm »
On the subject of soldering consumables that work better than other brands...

After watching a mikeselectricstuff video, and seeing him recommend Chemtronics solder wick, i bought some from Digikey
DAMN, its awesome!!++

Seriously, it works so much better than other solder wick i've tried.

It actually works a little 'too' well.
Sometimes i want to remove only the excess solder and this stuff pulls every last drop of solder from the joint meaning i have to resolder it. hehe

Also, I'm not sure if this is an actually advantage or not but... The stuff has an awesome smell when it gets hot!
I dunno if it's the rosin or what but the smell is so pleasant that I want to use it just for the smell.  (probably not the safest option to be sniffing the stuff, hehe)

The type i have was from digikey 80-4-5-ND
it says
Soder-wick
ROSIN SD
Size #4   80-4-5   1.5m
Chemtronics
« Last Edit: February 20, 2013, 12:01:43 am by Psi »
Greek letter 'Psi' (not Pounds per Square Inch)
 

Online mariush

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2013, 12:55:21 am »
I'm using Multicore 0.56mm , 63/37 no clean ... works great.

On more oxidized parts, I'm using some liquid flux when needed, not a particular known brand, just something made in .pl or .cz , of the no-clean variety. Works ok.
 

Offline david77

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2013, 02:55:34 am »
I also use Alpha Metals Fluitin 1532 in 1 and 0,5mm. I find it flows so much better than some other brands I've used.
As for solder wick there really is no alternative to Chemtronics, the stuff just works great.
 

Offline Fsck

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2013, 04:47:02 am »
I'm a Kester fan.  44 for RA, 245 for no-clean. Both matched with the 951 flux pen. Both 63/37.
"This is a one line proof...if we start sufficiently far to the left."
 

Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Best solder for you?
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2013, 06:38:06 am »
I've just bought 5 meter of fluitin, is lead free, i think i can survive, is just for try it.

The stannol i've used is kristal 505, with a strong flux.

I need to search in big suppliers, seems like ebay seller prefer cheap cina ones.
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Best solder for you?
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2013, 07:00:30 am »
And i've just bought ketler 186 flux pen. Yes, is strong, but i alredy had a less powerful liquid flux.
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline george graves

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2013, 08:20:42 am »
Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?

Offline ampdoctor

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2013, 12:52:26 am »
Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?
It's pretty much shit. And their solder wick is god awful.  Actually, it might not be that bad but who knows how old the stuff might be. It wouldn't surprise me if it was sitting on the shelf for years before somebody actually wanders in and buys a spool.  Having said that, it's passable as a last resort if you just need a bit of solder while waiting for the real stuff to be delivered.  But after you've used a fresh spool of kester 60/40 or preferably 63/37 you'll quickly realize how nice it is to work with a quality product. And don't waste your money on silver solder.  All it's good for is keeping the werewolves away from your projects.
 

Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Best solder for you?
« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2013, 06:22:19 am »
Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?
i

Is one of this old-like solder with the smell of rosin?
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline Smokey

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2013, 08:19:31 am »
Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks.  Does it seem that no matter how long you hold the tip against the wick and joint it wont flow?  Probably no flux (or dried up flux).  The good stuff comes with some flux already, but even the cheap huge braid wick works great with some extra flux.  I keep a tin of paste flux around just for enhancing solder wick.  Push the end of the wick into the flux paste with the tip of your soldering iron just long enough to melt a bit, and BAM... SuperWick.  Liquid flux works better, but it's crazy messy and if you ever spill that on your desk... lets just say don't spill liquid flux on the desk.
 

Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2013, 10:36:12 am »
it's not only flux, good quality one are woven in a different way.
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline nctnico

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2013, 11:40:37 am »
Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks. 
Actually, that is why it doesn't suck at all  :-DD Serious, the only solder wick I use is 'Soder Wick' from Chemtronics. Works excellent but you need to wet the tip with fresh solder every now and then otherwise the heat transfer from the tip is bad.
There are small lies, big lies and then there is what is on the screen of your oscilloscope.
 

Offline nanofrog

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2013, 10:02:20 pm »
Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks. 
Serious, the only solder wick I use is 'Soder Wick' from Chemtronics. Works excellent but you need to wet the tip with fresh solder every now and then otherwise the heat transfer from the tip is bad.
+1  :-+ Best wick I've ever used.
 

Offline Telstar

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2013, 03:59:23 pm »
AFAIK the "best" solder is Cardas Quad Eutectic (with lead). At the price they sell Multicore in europe the premium was so low that I went for the Cardas.
I do only audio stuff and the supposed qualities of silver and copper MAY help too. But the facts are that is good to solder also stuff with copper or silver pins.
 

Offline ddavideborTopic starter

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #17 on: February 25, 2013, 05:08:01 pm »
this one is the one who i've tried and work well

stannol krista 505
David - Professional Engineer - Medical Devices and Tablet Computers at Smartbox AT
Side businesses: Altium Industry Expert writer, http://fermium.ltd.uk (Scientific Equiment), http://chinesecleavers.co.uk (Cutlery),
 

Offline G7PSK

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2013, 10:39:34 pm »
I am using Ersin multicore solder that I got way back in 1982. I purchased a new 350 amp mig welder and  told the rep that I wanted some solder as well, he threw in a reel of it, well more like a drum as it was 15 or 20 KG. as a sweetener I am still using it up, the original drum has long since perished as it was made of cardboard but I still have about a kilo left on a plastic mig wire drum. I have new solder that is much finer 0.4 mm but the flux does not work as well as the old stuff.
 

Offline IanB

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2013, 10:52:05 pm »
Yes, that Ersin Multicore was the best of the best. I have some with the "Savbit" alloy from around the same timeframe, but I only have an ounce or two in a small dispenser so I'm preserving it. I wonder if today's product of the same name still works as well?
 

Offline WorldPowerLabs

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2013, 07:05:05 pm »
I'm using Multicore 0.56mm , 63/37 no clean ... works great.

On more oxidized parts, I'm using some liquid flux when needed, not a particular known brand, just something made in .pl or .cz , of the no-clean variety. Works ok.

At work, I use Multicore 63/37 no clean in the 0.38mm diameter.  It's a quality product and I'd recommend it.  At home, I use Kester "44" 60/40 because that's what I happen to have; not sure what the diameter is, but it's probably 0.31mm.  Both are quality solders, but the Multicore seems to leave less rosin residue.  I really don't have a huge preference when it comes to diameter of my solder wire.  The smaller stuff can be nice for SMT work, but with experience, you can use the larger diameters (within reason) without any real trouble.

I have a small amount of the Chip Quik solder at home, too, for removing stubborn parts.  It's expensive but I do like it for certain uses.  One such use is removing SMT electrolytic caps. These tend to have such narrow pads, combined with more substantial physical mass than many SMT parts, that I use the CQ to reduce the risk of damaging the traces.

When I did production PCB assembly, we used solid-core solder (I believe that it was Kester) and a water-soluble flux (don't recall what brand, but we bought it by the gallon).  Once boards were soldered, we scrubbed them in warm water and a little detergent, using a stiff brush.  Then, a rinse with deionized water and blow dry with compressed air.  This was for a medical device, where we used 1% metal-film resistors for current-limiting on LEDs!  I don't know if the water-wash is still common in industry, but we never had any reliability issues with it.
 

Offline Telstar

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2013, 08:00:46 pm »
the "no clean" type doesnt use Rosin, but something else.
 

Offline WorldPowerLabs

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2013, 08:40:52 pm »
The Kester 44 datasheet claims that it uses an activated rosin formula for the flux.  They also claim that, once soldering is completed, the flux is non-corrosive and may be left uncleaned.  The Multicore datasheet claims "modified rosin," and also states that boards need not be cleaned unless the design is a high-reliability one.

In any event, the residue from the Multicore is much easier to clean with IPA.
 

Offline Telstar

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2013, 09:03:33 pm »
The Kester 44 datasheet claims that it uses an activated rosin formula for the flux.  They also claim that, once soldering is completed, the flux is non-corrosive and may be left uncleaned.  The Multicore datasheet claims "modified rosin," and also states that boards need not be cleaned unless the design is a high-reliability one.

In any event, the residue from the Multicore is much easier to clean with IPA.

ok, thanks, this is good to know.
 

Offline kodai

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Re: Best solder for you?
« Reply #24 on: March 09, 2013, 03:46:02 am »
Back in the 90's I was doing a bit of shopping at my local (now defunct) electronics parts store caled Delta Electronics.  The were based out of California, but had 20-30 stores throughout the country and several of them were here in the Atlanta Georgia area.  Anyway, one day I walked in and stood face to face with this giant 10' tall pyramid made 1lb boxed rolls of Gardiner .020 63/37 XM-200 solder.  In front of the pyramid was a bin filled with a couple thousand more boxed rolls of it and a sign that read $5.00 ea or buy 4 rolls and get the 5th roll free.  So I got me 5lbs of this stuff.  For those of you who use Kester 44, this is the same stuff.  Kester bought Gardiner and continued to use its line but with the Kester name.  After about 20+ years, I'm down to 4lbs of it and its my goto solder.  The one pound I went through was only half used by me and the other have given to friends and family members who needed a bit of solder over the years. 

As to the question about Radio Shack solder earlier in the thread, dont touch it.  If its the old stuff they sold in the 70's and 80's then by all means use it.  I still have a some of a 1lb .032 60/40 roll rosin cored Radio Shack roll from back in the 80's and I use it for larger connections that I need to clamp the parts when soldering.  Works great and I've never had a flow or wetting issue with it.  Just have to clean the residue though.  But I've used the modern Radio Shack solders from time to time (at a friends place or on a job and out and about) and its just plain garbage.  The last time I used it was about a year ago and it was installing a new head unit for my uncle in his truck.  I was wiring up the harness over at his place and he had a cheap direct plug in firestarter type soldering iron and bought a little roll of Radio Shack 63/37.  So I clean, braid and flux the joints of the harness (not forgetting the heat shrink first ^_^), and after each joint I watched it slowly cool to a solid point.  Must have taken 4-5 seconds for each joint to go solid.  Meaning that it was not as it was labeled a 63/37 solder and it was fairly dull when it cooled.  Not frosty like it had been over heated, just dull with a look of age.  It also peeled off the wires with far less strength than it should have taken.  The wires were decent copper strand, the flux was reasonable quality (I had it left over in my glove box when I forgot to place it in my toolbox on a job), and the cheap soldering iron wasnt way out of wack.  So it really leaves the solder as the culprit. 

So avoid modern Radio Shaft tools and parts as they are total junk now days.  There was a time back in the 70's and 80's when they sold decent parts and tools for a decent price.  There was also a time when Radio Shack sold radio gear (hence the name), but now they just sell low rent consumer junk, and their staff is made up of kids and morons.  A good example of this is to go into any store and ask any employee about what ham gear they have.  By default, they will go stiff and their face will melt off like Thot in Raiders of the Lost Ark.   >:D
 


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