Best solder for you?

[ddavidebor]

Hi

I'm using a cheap solder. Yeeees, it's not bad but it can't win a little oxidation of copper.

Today i've tried "stannol" solder, 60/40 made in germany... It's awesome! It stick to everithing! Also 20yo component, but it leave a little more residues than cheap mine. (alcool washable)

We all now Dave use multicore.

What did you use?

[flolic]

For years I was using Stannol 60/40 or 60/39 Cu1 and it was great solder.
Now I have new batch of 0.5mm Fluitin 1532 "no clean" solder, 60/38/Cu2, and it is even better than Stannol.
It is real joy to work with it, best solder I ever had.

[nanofrog]

Kester for me (44 or 186 rosin core, 63/37 or 60/40).

[Psi]

On the subject of soldering consumables that work better than other brands...

After watching a mikeselectricstuff video, and seeing him recommend Chemtronics solder wick, i bought some from Digikey
DAMN, its awesome!!++

Seriously, it works so much better than other solder wick i've tried.

It actually works a little 'too' well.
Sometimes i want to remove only the excess solder and this stuff pulls every last drop of solder from the joint meaning i have to resolder it. hehe

Also, I'm not sure if this is an actually advantage or not but... The stuff has an awesome smell when it gets hot!
I dunno if it's the rosin or what but the smell is so pleasant that I want to use it just for the smell.  (probably not the safest option to be sniffing the stuff, hehe)

The type i have was from digikey 80-4-5-ND
it says
Soder-wick
ROSIN SD
Size #4   80-4-5   1.5m
Chemtronics

[mariush]

I'm using Multicore 0.56mm , 63/37 no clean ... works great.

On more oxidized parts, I'm using some liquid flux when needed, not a particular known brand, just something made in .pl or .cz , of the no-clean variety. Works ok.

[david77]

I also use Alpha Metals Fluitin 1532 in 1 and 0,5mm. I find it flows so much better than some other brands I've used.
As for solder wick there really is no alternative to Chemtronics, the stuff just works great.

[Fsck]

I'm a Kester fan.  44 for RA, 245 for no-clean. Both matched with the 951 flux pen. Both 63/37.

[ddavidebor]

I've just bought 5 meter of fluitin, is lead free, i think i can survive, is just for try it.

The stannol i've used is kristal 505, with a strong flux.

I need to search in big suppliers, seems like ebay seller prefer cheap cina ones.

[ddavidebor]

And i've just bought ketler 186 flux pen. Yes, is strong, but i alredy had a less powerful liquid flux.

[george graves]

Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?

[ampdoctor]

Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?

It's pretty much shit. And their solder wick is god awful.  Actually, it might not be that bad but who knows how old the stuff might be. It wouldn't surprise me if it was sitting on the shelf for years before somebody actually wanders in and buys a spool.  Having said that, it's passable as a last resort if you just need a bit of solder while waiting for the real stuff to be delivered.  But after you've used a fresh spool of kester 60/40 or preferably 63/37 you'll quickly realize how nice it is to work with a quality product. And don't waste your money on silver solder.  All it's good for is keeping the werewolves away from your projects.

[ddavidebor]

Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?

i

Is one of this old-like solder with the smell of rosin?

[Smokey]

Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks.  Does it seem that no matter how long you hold the tip against the wick and joint it wont flow?  Probably no flux (or dried up flux).  The good stuff comes with some flux already, but even the cheap huge braid wick works great with some extra flux.  I keep a tin of paste flux around just for enhancing solder wick.  Push the end of the wick into the flux paste with the tip of your soldering iron just long enough to melt a bit, and BAM... SuperWick.  Liquid flux works better, but it's crazy messy and if you ever spill that on your desk... lets just say don't spill liquid flux on the desk.

[ddavidebor]

it's not only flux, good quality one are woven in a different way.

[nctnico]

Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks. 

Actually, that is why it doesn't suck at all  Serious, the only solder wick I use is 'Soder Wick' from Chemtronics. Works excellent but you need to wet the tip with fresh solder every now and then otherwise the heat transfer from the tip is bad.

[nanofrog]

Bad solder wick probably doesn't have any flux on it.  That's why it sucks. 

Serious, the only solder wick I use is 'Soder Wick' from Chemtronics. Works excellent but you need to wet the tip with fresh solder every now and then otherwise the heat transfer from the tip is bad.

+1  Best wick I've ever used.

[Telstar]

AFAIK the "best" solder is Cardas Quad Eutectic (with lead). At the price they sell Multicore in europe the premium was so low that I went for the Cardas.
I do only audio stuff and the supposed qualities of silver and copper MAY help too. But the facts are that is good to solder also stuff with copper or silver pins.

[ddavidebor]

this one is the one who i've tried and work well

stannol krista 505

[G7PSK]

I am using Ersin multicore solder that I got way back in 1982. I purchased a new 350 amp mig welder and  told the rep that I wanted some solder as well, he threw in a reel of it, well more like a drum as it was 15 or 20 KG. as a sweetener I am still using it up, the original drum has long since perished as it was made of cardboard but I still have about a kilo left on a plastic mig wire drum. I have new solder that is much finer 0.4 mm but the flux does not work as well as the old stuff.

[IanB]

Yes, that Ersin Multicore was the best of the best. I have some with the "Savbit" alloy from around the same timeframe, but I only have an ounce or two in a small dispenser so I'm preserving it. I wonder if today's product of the same name still works as well?

[WorldPowerLabs]

I'm using Multicore 0.56mm , 63/37 no clean ... works great.

On more oxidized parts, I'm using some liquid flux when needed, not a particular known brand, just something made in .pl or .cz , of the no-clean variety. Works ok.

At work, I use Multicore 63/37 no clean in the 0.38mm diameter.  It's a quality product and I'd recommend it.  At home, I use Kester "44" 60/40 because that's what I happen to have; not sure what the diameter is, but it's probably 0.31mm.  Both are quality solders, but the Multicore seems to leave less rosin residue.  I really don't have a huge preference when it comes to diameter of my solder wire.  The smaller stuff can be nice for SMT work, but with experience, you can use the larger diameters (within reason) without any real trouble.

I have a small amount of the Chip Quik solder at home, too, for removing stubborn parts.  It's expensive but I do like it for certain uses.  One such use is removing SMT electrolytic caps. These tend to have such narrow pads, combined with more substantial physical mass than many SMT parts, that I use the CQ to reduce the risk of damaging the traces.

When I did production PCB assembly, we used solid-core solder (I believe that it was Kester) and a water-soluble flux (don't recall what brand, but we bought it by the gallon).  Once boards were soldered, we scrubbed them in warm water and a little detergent, using a stiff brush.  Then, a rinse with deionized water and blow dry with compressed air.  This was for a medical device, where we used 1% metal-film resistors for current-limiting on LEDs!  I don't know if the water-wash is still common in industry, but we never had any reliability issues with it.

[Telstar]

the "no clean" type doesnt use Rosin, but something else.

[WorldPowerLabs]

The Kester 44 datasheet claims that it uses an activated rosin formula for the flux.  They also claim that, once soldering is completed, the flux is non-corrosive and may be left uncleaned.  The Multicore datasheet claims "modified rosin," and also states that boards need not be cleaned unless the design is a high-reliability one.

In any event, the residue from the Multicore is much easier to clean with IPA.

[Telstar]

The Kester 44 datasheet claims that it uses an activated rosin formula for the flux.  They also claim that, once soldering is completed, the flux is non-corrosive and may be left uncleaned.  The Multicore datasheet claims "modified rosin," and also states that boards need not be cleaned unless the design is a high-reliability one.

In any event, the residue from the Multicore is much easier to clean with IPA.

ok, thanks, this is good to know.

[kodai]

Back in the 90's I was doing a bit of shopping at my local (now defunct) electronics parts store caled Delta Electronics.  The were based out of California, but had 20-30 stores throughout the country and several of them were here in the Atlanta Georgia area.  Anyway, one day I walked in and stood face to face with this giant 10' tall pyramid made 1lb boxed rolls of Gardiner .020 63/37 XM-200 solder.  In front of the pyramid was a bin filled with a couple thousand more boxed rolls of it and a sign that read $5.00 ea or buy 4 rolls and get the 5th roll free.  So I got me 5lbs of this stuff.  For those of you who use Kester 44, this is the same stuff.  Kester bought Gardiner and continued to use its line but with the Kester name.  After about 20+ years, I'm down to 4lbs of it and its my goto solder.  The one pound I went through was only half used by me and the other have given to friends and family members who needed a bit of solder over the years. 

As to the question about Radio Shack solder earlier in the thread, dont touch it.  If its the old stuff they sold in the 70's and 80's then by all means use it.  I still have a some of a 1lb .032 60/40 roll rosin cored Radio Shack roll from back in the 80's and I use it for larger connections that I need to clamp the parts when soldering.  Works great and I've never had a flow or wetting issue with it.  Just have to clean the residue though.  But I've used the modern Radio Shack solders from time to time (at a friends place or on a job and out and about) and its just plain garbage.  The last time I used it was about a year ago and it was installing a new head unit for my uncle in his truck.  I was wiring up the harness over at his place and he had a cheap direct plug in firestarter type soldering iron and bought a little roll of Radio Shack 63/37.  So I clean, braid and flux the joints of the harness (not forgetting the heat shrink first ^_^), and after each joint I watched it slowly cool to a solid point.  Must have taken 4-5 seconds for each joint to go solid.  Meaning that it was not as it was labeled a 63/37 solder and it was fairly dull when it cooled.  Not frosty like it had been over heated, just dull with a look of age.  It also peeled off the wires with far less strength than it should have taken.  The wires were decent copper strand, the flux was reasonable quality (I had it left over in my glove box when I forgot to place it in my toolbox on a job), and the cheap soldering iron wasnt way out of wack.  So it really leaves the solder as the culprit. 

So avoid modern Radio Shaft tools and parts as they are total junk now days.  There was a time back in the 70's and 80's when they sold decent parts and tools for a decent price.  There was also a time when Radio Shack sold radio gear (hence the name), but now they just sell low rent consumer junk, and their staff is made up of kids and morons.  A good example of this is to go into any store and ask any employee about what ham gear they have.  By default, they will go stiff and their face will melt off like Thot in Raiders of the Lost Ark.   

[george graves]

Can anyone comment on the quality of Radio Shack solder?  60/40 rosin core.  How much better is something like Kester?  Am I missing out on quality solder?

It's pretty much shit......Actually, it might not be that bad....

I bought some Kester 44 to replace my Radio Shack stuff.  It's a little bit better.  Not night and day.  It flows a bit better, and seems to handle higher temps better (I tend to like to solder a bit on the hot side.)  It's doesn't bridge as easily, that's for sure - it seems to have more surface tension. The radio shack stuff is $12 for 1/2 pound.  Kester is closer to ~$35 for a pound(with shipping - no local source.) 

[GreyWoolfe]

I just picked up some Kester 44 63/37 .031 for just over $25 shipped.  I also still have a little Alpha Metals Reliacore 60/40 .062 from the late 90's for wires and such.

[george graves]

Source for that in the US?  Parts-express tacked on $10 shipping to my last bill for a pound of it.

[m100]

Been using this as my default for what seems like forever,  but maybe late 80's very early 90's.   I think they fiddled around a bit with the fomulation of the flux about fifteen years ago.  But any flux residue is easily cleaned with safewash or ultrasolve. Nice shiny joints you can visually check and know they are going to be ok, just as they should be, none of this lead free save the planet crap.

http://uk.farnell.com/multicore-loctite/dlmp26-250g-reel/solder-wire-62-36-2-179-c-250g/dp/419564

62 lead / 35 tin / 2 silver

Chemtronics or Servisol for desolder braid if the weller desolder station isn't being brought out.

[TimFox]

Actually, that alloy (Sn62) is 62% Sn, 36% Pb, and 2% Ag, not majority lead.
It is the "ternary eutectic" combination of those three elements.
Sn 63 (63% Sn and 37% Pb) is the binary eutectic for those two.
Eutectic alloys are normally the best choice, since they have the lowest melting point and, more importantly, melt and freeze at the same temperature without going through a slushy stage.
Other alloys (e.g., Sn40) are sometimes used when a higher melting point is needed for its own sake, as when the first joint should not melt when the second joint is made.
Sn62 is the only alloy for wire solder that I have used for lo, these many years:  both Kester and Multicore.
It seems to be hard to find now, in this age of ROHS.
When Tektronix vacuum-tube oscilloscopes used ceramic internal terminal strips, they included a small hank of Sn62 to allow repair of the strips without leaching the silver out of the metallization.

[691175002]

I had some 62/36/2(Ag) which was great.  Ran out and bought some 63/37 Kester.  Wouldn't use 60/40 again.

[m100]

Actually, that alloy (Sn62) is 62% Sn, 36% Pb, and 2% Ag, not majority lead.

Yes I really did know what I meant even if my typing fingers didn't    

(and that 62+35+2  != 100)

[TimFox]

In chess, there is the German term "Fingerfehler" for a mistake made by the fingers, not the brain.

[nanofrog]

the "no clean" type doesnt use Rosin, but something else.

FWIW, some no-clean formulations use rosin as it's base resin. It's just filtered a lot more than it is with a traditional rosin formulation, usually followed by some different chemistry processing going on.

I had some 62/36/2(Ag) which was great.  Ran out and bought some 63/37 Kester.  Wouldn't use 60/40 again.

Snagged a couple of 1.5oz. spools from the one RadioShack that was closing here in town, as it's not something I frequently use.

Regarding Rat Shack solder, my existing spool works very well, but it's out of the early '90's. Figure worst case, I can add flux with the current stuff if it doesn't wet. 

[GreyWoolfe]

Source for that in the US?  Parts-express tacked on $10 shipping to my last bill for a pound of it.

I picked it up off of eBay but I just went back and checked and they buyer doesn't have anything listed anymore.  I'm guessing he sold out.

[rosbuitre]

Hi
In all versions of Kester solder which recommend for DIY audio?, for special solder I use WBT, the station is a Hakko FX-888D

Regards

[tooki]

Some 63/37, as others have said. I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJX6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00 (Kester 44, 63/37, 0.8mm)


As an aside, I actually like MG Chemicals solder wick even better than Chemtronics. It's got an even finer weave -- significantly finer -- that's just magical. And it's cheap in the 25 foot rolls! See http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8TNCY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

[nanofrog]

Kester 44 (= RA flux), 63/37 alloy, and a flux core size of 66 (3.3% flux by weight).

in either of the following diameters:

• .020"/.508mm diameter
• .025"/.635mm diameter

Either of these will work as general use solders for a hobbyist for the following reasons:

• Flux residue isn't corrosive, so you can usually leave it on if you wish.
• RA works on both new and old work (light to heavy oxidation).
• Above diameters (.020" & .025") are well suited to either SMD or PTH work

With larger joints and finer solder wire diameter, just wrap enough of it around your fingers 2 - 3 times (length depending on the joint size), then twist it up. Instant larger diameter equivalent (the idea being keep it to 1 roll for cost purposes). 

.031"/.787mm is better suited to PTH & tinning wire, as it's harder to control the amount of solder fed the smaller you go in joint size. The increased difficulty is enough that it's less useful for SMD work and therefore not as suited as a general purpose roll.

BTW, if you're soldering components containing silver, you should be using Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 (aka 2% silver) to prevent leaching the silver out of them (reliability issue).

[KL27x]

0.032" RA core 63/37.

Amazing how many ways there are to skin a cat. Personally, I have no use for solder thinner than 0.03", and I do 99% SMD, SSOP/TQFP preferred. The 30 mil solder holds its shape where you put it. If you're under the microscope you can hang it in your FOV. I have a DIY spool with a bar on it for anchoring the solder in arbitrary floating positions. And an inch of solder doesn't disappear in a heartbeat.

I find solder any thinner is only really necessary to feed the tip of a very fine conical point that can't carry/hold solder on its own. I avoid using the ultrafine conicals for this reason. I only have two hands, so feeding individual joints isn't my preferred method for fine-pitch, anyway . I only feed larger joints (0603 pads qualify as large!), and you don't need fine solder to do that. Catch 22. I can't find a use for the thin stuff.

[kolonelkadat]

I use AIM solder. The one I use now is 63/37 rma. With the ~10usd per pound price tag at mouser, its a no brainer for me.

[tooki]

0.032" RA core 63/37.

Amazing how many ways there are to skin a cat. Personally, I have no use for solder thinner than 0.03", and I do 99% SMD, SSOP/TQFP preferred. ...

I have to agree. I have a roll of .020" .015" 63/37 that I've had for 20 years and I rarely find a use for it -- for through-hole it's too thin to feed an adequate amount of solder quickly enough, and for SMD I drag-solder or use paste and reflow. I've settled on .03x" as ideal for most use.

[rosbuitre]

Hi
Thanks for the information, very useful and accurate  ,  for daily use buy Kester, for more delicate solder (Audio DIY), buy Cardas

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCTRYGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1O44Z2C3OZAM9

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJX6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A9DVUS2B9UXTW

Regards
Osvaldo

[Monkeh]

Hi
Thanks for the information, very useful and accurate  ,  for daily use buy Kester, for more delicate solder (Audio DIY), buy Cardas

It will massively improve your audio quality, and it's only five times the price!

[Quarlo Klobrigney]

Most others solder cause bad tones due to the impure metallurgy resulting in bad karma and mis-shaped waves. Our solder uses only the purest of metals blessed by Tibetan Monks in Spring for proper atomic alignment.
The result is pure waves and tones to please the senses.
EDIT: Enclosed in every package of solder are a free pair tuning stones to be placed at specific locations in the room with your newly resoldered amplifier. A $399 value, absolutely free!

It will massively improve your audio quality, and it's only five times the price!

[Owen]

I'm using Stannol Sn60Pb40 (0,5 mm and 1 mm) and Felder ISO-Core Sn62 Pb36 Ag2 (0,35 mm with 3,5% flux).

[D3f1ant]

Saying 'brand x' 60/40 is your favorite doesn't really help because almost all solder (leaded that is) is either 60/40 or 63/37...what sets them apart is the FLUX they use. The problem is most brands have SEVERAL different fluxes for any given metal blend. Multicore for example have something like five or six different fluxes for their 60/40 solder wire, and their performance varies a lot, as does the clean process should you wish to clean. I won't get into the 'smell', but some flux stinks.

I tend to prefer fluxes that can be cleaned with IPA, some of the more modern 'eco' synthetic fluxes are very difficult to remove with either IPA or Water based solvents and require proprietary cleaning chemicals...IMO its ugly to leave the flux, esp the yellowish ones.

[KL27x]

I tend to prefer fluxes that can be cleaned with IPA

+1. The inorganic "no-clean" fluxes I have used leave a beautiful, transparent residue that is 10x prettier than rosin and hardly noticeable to the eye. But as soon as alcohol or acetone touches the residue, it transforms into a white, conductive-when-damp mess. The most effective way I know to remove it at that point is with a toothbrush.

IMO its ugly to leave the flux, esp the yellowish ones.

I prefer brown rosin residue all over my own boards over the nearly invisible residue of the inorganic no-clean. I have never come across a modern board-level electrical component that can't be dunked in acetone or alcohol, indefinitely, and I prefer any residue that is purposely left should also be friendly with solvents if the board has to be cleaned for some reason.

I haven't found a good rosin-based solder paste, yet.

[labjr]

I use AIM solder. The one I use now is 63/37 rma. With the ~10usd per pound price tag at mouser, its a no brainer for me.

Not $10 anymore. There isn't any AMI solder under $25 now. The price of solder has gotten sky high.

Amerway is cheap at TEquipment. Anyone try this? Has good reviews

https://www.tequipment.net/Amerway/AM63.37.SPOOL.1LB/Solder-Wire/?b=y&v=124481

[salavat]

For audio projects I use Cardas Eutectic, for anything else - Felder 63/37 (0.5mm core for SMD soldering, 0.75mm for else).

[Monkeh]

Ah, the Cardas is still rearing its expensive head..

[particleman]

right now I have some
Qualitek 63/37  NC601
Kester 44 60/40
Kester 44 SN62/PB36/AG2 for silver sintered ceramic soldering

[Cnoob]

All my solder is Multicore/Loctite.

High Melting Point 1.2mm

Low Melting Point 0.56mm and 0.7mm

60/40 0.56 mm

I prefer the LMP 0.7mm to use as it leaves a shiny looking joint. Solder which is too fine, breaks too easily.

The HMP 1.2 is too thick but was all I could get at the time, but does stand out from my other solders.

[dk_wiking]

Yes. It pays of to use quality solder. I personaly use some Felder 60-40 and some Stannol 60-40. I have a litle leftover from old days - alpha-grillo made in west germany, must be more than 25 years old - which works very well. My last purchase in regards to solder was a small test amount of Cynel 60-40 made in Polland. Cynel solder works surprisingly well.
I think you will see a pattern in the prefferences depend on where the person is placed in the wolrd - USA, Australia or Europe.

[stj]

if your in Europe you wont be getting lead based solder now.
TME has removed it from the site, RS has this notice.

[labjr]

if your in Europe you wont be getting lead based solder now.
TME has removed it from the site, RS has this notice.

Even for hobbyist non-production use? I hope there's a warning if that happens in USA. I'd have to stock up because lead free is terrible.

[stj]

yes.

it says it can be purchased by trade, but that's not really likely.
it's not legal for a company to use it unless they are repairing old equipment that already had lead based solder in it.


personally i'm not effected because i use this:

[labjr]

I've heard of SN100C but don't know a lot about it. How well it flows, temperature etc.? Does it eat soldering iron tips?

[labjr]

If the US bans leaded solder, I'll buy a lifetime supply of Kester 44 and others. 

[stj]

the u.s. wont ban lead, it will piss off the gun collectors too much.
it shouldnt, because solid copper rounds are far more effective - but you cant cast your own.

that said, u.s. manufacturers will drop leaded solder because it restricts exports.

[stj]

I've heard of SN100C but don't know a lot about it. How well it flows, temperature etc.? Does it eat soldering iron tips?

soldering tips are eaten by flux, not solder.
leaving agressive flux on the tip will eat through them pretty fast.
i use very mild flux cored solder (HS10 / Kristall505/511) so my tips are not effected.

[Monkeh]

the u.s. wont ban lead, it will piss off the gun collectors too much.

Err.. they haven't banned lead ammunition here, either.

I sometimes wonder what it's like to live in your world.

[stj]

are you sure about that?
they banned it in mainland europe, and they banned lead for fishing weights too.

[Monkeh]

are you sure about that?
they banned it in mainland europe, and they banned lead for fishing weights too.

Are you?

Banning lead shot in hunting and lead weights, both of which tend to cause significant lead contamination, is fair. This is not the same thing as banning lead ammunition.

Why do I bother with you anyway - you'll believe any website which says the government is out to get you.

[stj]

monkey, why do you need lead bullets?
the days of casting in the field died over 100 years ago.
even good lead bullets are in a copper jacket,
the military fire copper bullets with a steel core, why do you think you need lead?

[Monkeh]

monkey, why do you need lead bullets?

stu, who said I do?

the military fire copper bullets with a steel core, why do you think you need lead?

Actually they fire a wide variety of ammunition types including lead core. Again, who said I do?

[Quarlo Klobrigney]

Quote from: stj on Today at 16:19:59

monkey, why do you need lead bullets?
To make sure the perp dies of lead poisoning as well after shooting him.

[Hemi345]

the "no clean" type doesnt use Rosin, but something else.

FWIW, some no-clean formulations use rosin as it's base resin. It's just filtered a lot more than it is with a traditional rosin formulation, usually followed by some different chemistry processing going on.

I had some 62/36/2(Ag) which was great.  Ran out and bought some 63/37 Kester.  Wouldn't use 60/40 again.

Snagged a couple of 1.5oz. spools from the one RadioShack that was closing here in town, as it's not something I frequently use.

Regarding Rat Shack solder, my existing spool works very well, but it's out of the early '90's. Figure worst case, I can add flux with the current stuff if it doesn't wet. 

I had a spool of the RadioShack 62/36/2 Silver-bearing solder from the '90s too that finally ran out.  I just picked up another couple 1.5oz spools off RadioShack's website a month ago.  I just haven't found anything that solders as easily as this does or makes shiny strong joints.   So far the new stuff seems just as good.   Cleanup is easy with IPA.

I tried a roll of Gootwick and it was terrible.  I think they forgot to put the flux in it. I have a few rolls in different sizes of MG Chemicals Superwick and it works really well without adding any additional flux.

[labjr]

soldering tips are eaten by flux, not solder.
leaving agressive flux on the tip will eat through them pretty fast.
i use very mild flux cored solder (HS10 / Kristall505/511) so my tips are not effected.

According to the Pace marketing rep, lead free alloys are much more corrosive. Bad for tips. I'll never use lead free.

[labjr]

I had a spool of the RadioShack 62/36/2 Silver-bearing solder from the '90s too that finally ran out.  I just picked up another couple 1.5oz spools off RadioShack's website a month ago.  I just haven't found anything that solders as easily as this does or makes shiny strong joints.   So far the new stuff seems just as good.   Cleanup is easy with IPA.

I tried a roll of Gootwick and it was terrible.  I think they forgot to put the flux in it. I have a few rolls in different sizes of MG Chemicals Superwick and it works really well without adding any additional flux.

Cardas Quad Eutectic is very good and makes beautiful shiny joints but it's expensive.  Kester 63/37 is good too.

A lot of solder wick is crap. Looks like wire from a cheap shielded cable with no flux on it. Good flux is like a drug. You need lots of it.

[stj]

soldering tips are eaten by flux, not solder.
leaving agressive flux on the tip will eat through them pretty fast.
i use very mild flux cored solder (HS10 / Kristall505/511) so my tips are not effected.

According to the Pace marketing rep, lead free alloys are much more corrosive. Bad for tips. I'll never use lead free.

lol
pace-rep is a liar or fool.
alloys arent corrosive, other than copper leaching - and that has been pretty much solved now.
besides, very few people have exposed copper soldering tips - they are iron-plated.
it's the flux that does damage - that's it's job.

[tooki]

The PACE rep is neither a liar nor a fool: That lead-free soldering is harder on the tips is no secret. The higher temperatures not only cause metal to dissolve more readily, but the thermal shock of top cleaning is greater when the temperature is greater.

I think labjr was simply paraphrasing when he said “corrosive”, I’m fairly sure that’s not the wording the PACE guy used.

[labjr]

Actually, those were the words he used. I'm no scientist. I never really thought about it but just took his word for it. He seems to have been in the business forever and has been very helpful. Whatever the reason I will avoid lead-free.

From post 122 of the ADS200 thread:

How does lead-free affect soldering? There is a higher tin content, higher melting points, tighter process window, decreased wetting, longer dwell times, duller solder joints – all these elements can affect tip life. It's been estimated that Tip life can be decreased by up to 2/3 when using lead-free!

Increased Tin Content + Higher Temperatures = Aggressive Corrosion: Lead-free solder is much more corrosive to iron-plating than standard 63/37 tin-lead alloy, especially at elevated temperatures. Higher Sn (tin) content, higher idling temperatures, greater rate of oxidation, and rapid flux degeneration all contribute to lower tip life. The most important thing to remember is the higher the tip temperature, the higher the likelihood of increased plating erosion due to iron leaching.

[OwO]

Why bother with lead free at all? If it's just for hobby and not for production, provided you know how (not) to dispose of electronics it really doesn't matter. I'm pretty sure you will be able to buy the leaded stuff online from non-EU countries for the foreseeable future.

Lead free solder is also more "corrosive" to the iron tip because more aggressive flux has to be used, but this isn't my main concern as I use cheap tips. My main objection with lead free is the higher temperatures needed during soldering.

[OwO]

350C tip temperature is not uncommon, and it solders lead free well. If you play with some very temperature sensitive stuff like GaAs microwave chips, then there are other lead free solder alloys, such as Sn42Bi57Ag1.

I haven't used SnPb for a long time on my own projects, and I don't feel soldering to be hard at all.

I generally use <300C iron temperature, usually 280C. 350C is reserved for soldering SMA connectors.
The stuff I do isn't temperature sensitive, but I think 350C for soldering chips is way too high because of thermal shock. I would probably have to go with reflow for everything. It's also harder to see if a joint is good with lead free.

Lead free BGA is a pet peeve for me, it's the only time I have to really turn up the temperature on the hot air. I don't use solder paste for BGA but the surface finish on my boards is always leaded HASL. We'll see whether this causes problems.

[macboy]

soldering tips are eaten by flux, not solder.
leaving agressive flux on the tip will eat through them pretty fast.
i use very mild flux cored solder (HS10 / Kristall505/511) so my tips are not effected.

According to the Pace marketing rep, lead free alloys are much more corrosive. Bad for tips. I'll never use lead free.

lol
pace-rep is a liar or fool.
alloys arent corrosive, other than copper leaching - and that has been pretty much solved now.
besides, very few people have exposed copper soldering tips - they are iron-plated.
it's the flux that does damage - that's it's job.

A document by Weller "Soldering Tips & Lifetime Issues Coping with Lead Free" has a lot of data in it from their research. They conclude that a tip wears out 4 to 5 times faster when used with lead free solder.  It turns out that the much higher tin content causes a higher rater of erosion of the iron plating. An iron-tin intermetallic forms at the surface of the tip's iron plating, leading to migration of iron into the solder. The presence of lead (which is usually 1.5x as high as the tin content) significantly reduces this migration rate. Higher typical temperature and more aggressive fluxes also contribute. Surprisingly, rosin is worse than halogen based flux.

[labjr]

I wonder if leaded solders with rosin flux degrade the tip faster? I haven't compared different fluxes for performance. Always used rosin core.

[macboy]

I always use halide free, rosin based flux. Though rosin smoke isn't great for health, halides are worse. Also, in my experience, rosin fumes seem "sticky" by nature and that makes them easy to filter from the air, as they readily adhere to filter media. Just make sure that filter media isn't your lungs.

Back to the topic at hand, my favorite solder is Kester 44 60/40, 66 core, 0.031". That is "44" flux (activated rosin) which is very good at dealing with not-so-new surfaces, 60% Pb 40% Sn alloy, 66 core which means that the flux core in the wire is approximately 66% of the width of the wire, or about 3.3% by weight (58 core is 2.2%wt, and 50 core is 1.1%wt flux content). The diameter of 0.031" (0.8 mm) I feel is a good general purpose size. It is not so small that you need to feed many inches to tin a thick wire, but also small enough for any through hole and some SMD work. I also use 0.020" (0.5 mm) and as small as 0.010" (0.25 mm) for SMD.  I have some Kester 44 62/36/2 (2% silver) in 0.020" size which I use where I want the better conductivity or on anything I know has silver in it.  This is available at Arrow in a "pocket pak" for less than $3 (part# 83-7145-0415), which is actually a good price since a 1 lb roll is well over $100. The small spool of similar stuff at Radio Shack is a similar price/weight, but I don't know who the OEM is, and I've never used that. Comparing the MSDS sheet to that of various manufacturers might reveal the secret.

[magic]

if your in Europe you wont be getting lead based solder now.
TME has removed it from the site, RS has this notice.

Crap, it's real.
Actually they have it, but they won't sell it to me.

Thanks for the heads up, I guess I will have to stock myself up for years from other vendors who apparently didn't get the memo yet.

[labjr]

I always use halide free, rosin based flux. Though rosin smoke isn't great for health, halides are worse. Also, in my experience, rosin fumes seem "sticky" by nature and that makes them easy to filter from the air, as they readily adhere to filter media. Just make sure that filter media isn't your lungs.

Back to the topic at hand, my favorite solder is Kester 44 60/40, 66 core, 0.031". That is "44" flux (activated rosin) which is very good at dealing with not-so-new surfaces, 60% Pb 40% Sn alloy, 66 core which means that the flux core in the wire is approximately 66% of the width of the wire, or about 3.3% by weight (58 core is 2.2%wt, and 50 core is 1.1%wt flux content). The diameter of 0.031" (0.8 mm) I feel is a good general purpose size. It is not so small that you need to feed many inches to tin a thick wire, but also small enough for any through hole and some SMD work. I also use 0.020" (0.5 mm) and as small as 0.010" (0.25 mm) for SMD.  I have some Kester 44 62/36/2 (2% silver) in 0.020" size which I use where I want the better conductivity or on anything I know has silver in it.  This is available at Arrow in a "pocket pak" for less than $3 (part# 83-7145-0415), which is actually a good price since a 1 lb roll is well over $100. The small spool of similar stuff at Radio Shack is a similar price/weight, but I don't know who the OEM is, and I've never used that. Comparing the MSDS sheet to that of various manufacturers might reveal the secret.

Why not Kester 44 63/37?

[Quarlo Klobrigney]

My favourite since I was a wee lad. It's what I reorder. All the way from the 1970's up to today.

Quote from: labjr on Today at 15:50:38

Why not Kester 44 63/37?

[OwO]

I still use lead solder in my products 

[Elandril]

Thanks for all the tips!

I've mostly used Stannol and Multicore, but I'll definitely try some of the suggested ones. One can never have too much solder after all.

[mindcrime]

I'm still using up a roll of Radio Shack 60/40 in 0.021" diameter that is so old that Nikola Tesla probably used solder from the same batch. OK, maybe not quite, but I'm sure this roll is close to 20 years old by now.  It works well. I also have a slightly newer roll of the Radio Shack stuff that has 2% or 3% silver in it, but I can't really tell that it makes much difference.

That said, after discovering EEVBlog and watching a bunch of Dave's videos, I just ordered some Loctite / Multicore solder to try out. I also bought a roll of Monster Cable Cardas brand Quad Eutectic Solder to experiment with.  We'll see how that goes next time I need to assemble something.

[malagas_on_fire]

Used some donau 60 / 38 / Cu2 0.75mm 1mm and lately a mbo 60 / 38 Cu2 0.5mm . All performing well . Should try other brands such as Stanol or kester.

[labjr]

I bought a roll of Cardas Quad Eutectic several years ago when it was like $60. I use it for audio stuff. Not sure it's any better than Kester. Don't know who makes it. Nelson Pass once remarked that it's Multicore Savbit.