Cheap tools

[A]

Do you guys have any recommendations for cheap soldering stations not looking to spend over $100 AUD.
Also a good quality multi meter that is less than $50 AUD.

[ataradov]

How much research you did exactly?

Do you guys have any recommendations for cheap soldering stations not looking to spend over $100 AUD.

Hakko FX-888D

Also a good quality multi meter that is less than $50 AUD.

Anything by UNI-T.

[A]

Do you guys have any recommendations for cheap soldering stations not looking to spend over $100 AUD.
Also a good quality multi meter that is less than $50 AUD.

The UNI-T 61E seems to be a popular choice. But it is nearer $70. There are these threads on the EEVBLOG
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut61e-different-versions/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut61e-multimeter-teardown-photos/

The UNI-T UT139C can be had on Ebay for slightly less than $50.

Consider Daves EEVBlog Brymen 235 he sells on Ebay. His "back from Holidays" special seems to have ended (if there was such a thing) but $135 is still pretty good value. For about a week you could save 10 bucks. Maybe there'll be a back-to-school special.

With those budget constraints I would swap them around and get a $100 meter and $50 station. There are plenty of reviews of soldering stations like this one for example that seem to suggest they work OK. But I don't personally use one of them.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-60W-Weld-Soldering-Station-Iron-Stand-Digital-Temp-Control-ESD-Safe-Sponge-/121902190544?hash=item1c61efcfd0:g:87YAAOSw4shYBs2J

Thanks for the response I just brought the Doss ZD99 for $16 AUD at a store called radio parts (bargin) After using it for about 2 hours I really like it. But I still have a shit box $5 AUD digitech multi meter. Do you have any recommendations for a good multi meter?

[GreyWoolfe]

So you have $134 AUD left from your total $150 budget for both.  Get Dave's multimeter.

[A]

Dave's multi meter looks pretty good.

[james_s]

Don't forget used equipment, occasionally you can find a deal. I'm rather partial to Fluke meters and Hakko soldering gear but there is other good stuff. Careful not to go too cheap, there's a saying "buy cheap, buy twice" and someone once told me "Buy good tools and only cry once" and so far that has worked for me.

[cowana]

Careful not to go too cheap, there's a saying "buy cheap, buy twice" and someone once told me "Buy good tools and only cry once" and so far that has worked for me.

I'm a fan of the method of "buy a very cheap version - if you wear that out, splash out on a high quality model". It works very well for things you end up using infrequently, such as circlip pliers or broken bolt removers - while I'm sure my ones would wear out quickly if used hard, they suit my light use very well.

[karoru]

I'm a fan of the method of "buy a very cheap version - if you wear that out, splash out on a high quality model". It works very well for things you end up using infrequently, such as circlip pliers or broken bolt removers - while I'm sure my ones would wear out quickly if used hard, they suit my light use very well.

I'm also a fan of this method, especially if it's first time for you using that kind of tool. After using the cheapie you will know what features do you actually need and what are things annoying you the most. And sometimes you'll just stick with cheapie because it's ok for your workflow

That's especially true with power tools, there's no reason to buy $500 electric drill if you're making 10 holes a month - even a cheapiest Chinese model from local hardware store will more probably become stolen by drug addicts from your garage than wear out.

[iaeen]

Careful not to go too cheap, there's a saying "buy cheap, buy twice" and someone once told me "Buy good tools and only cry once" and so far that has worked for me.

I'm a fan of the method of "buy a very cheap version - if you wear that out, splash out on a high quality model". It works very well for things you end up using infrequently, such as circlip pliers or broken bolt removers - while I'm sure my ones would wear out quickly if used hard, they suit my light use very well.

I'm not a fan of this approach. It might work for things like pliers, but for most tools durability isn't the only consideration. When price affects the quality of the work and ease of use of a tool, I'd much prefer to spend a bit more upfront.

The two specific tools called out in this thread are prime examples of this. A cheap multimeter isn't going to wear out* and neither will a cheap, non-temperature controlled soldering iron; however, paying for quality will save you a lot of headache and generally make the hobby much more enjoyable.

*unless you blow it up, but then cheapness can easily become a safety hazard.

[janoc]

I'm not a fan of this approach. It might work for things like pliers, but for most tools durability isn't the only consideration. When price affects the quality of the work and ease of use of a tool, I'd much prefer to spend a bit more upfront.

The two specific tools called out in this thread are prime examples of this. A cheap multimeter isn't going to wear out* and neither will a cheap, non-temperature controlled soldering iron; however, paying for quality will save you a lot of headache and generally make the hobby much more enjoyable.

*unless you blow it up, but then cheapness can easily become a safety hazard.

Agreed. Exactly this. On the other hand, having to use a cheap and crappy tool will make a newbie appreciate the more expensive good quality one much more. Some people learn from the mistakes of others, some have to burn their own fingers (and wallets) first.

However, when it comes to tools and test gear, unless it is really "I am going to use it once a year" type of purchase, I am not so rich to be able to afford buy cheap things. Sooner or later I would have to buy the proper tool anyway, so I wouldn't save anything by buying the cheap junk.

[Bud]

The problem with cheap tools is many of them are unusable. I stopped buying cheap tools time ago and it saved me a lot of money.

[CatalinaWOW]

Some cheap tools are just fine.  Others are worse than a waste of money.  Unfortunately, by the time you can tell the difference you can usually afford more expensive tools and have most of the tools you need.

[james_s]

I occasionally buy cheap tools when it's something I only need once or twice, or when I plan to modify it for some other purpose. I'll buy a cheap socket at Harbor Freight and turn it down to fit a narrow recess or weld something to it to make a custom tool, no sense in paying a premium for a SnapOn or something for that. Some cheap hand tools are just fine, and the step drill bits I got at Harbor Freight for like $10 a set have been just as good as the one I paid 40 bucks for elsewhere. Other things though, like the cheap desoldering iron I had for years don't work nearly as well as the Hakko 808 I eventually bought. Had I known there were such a huge difference in performance I would have bought the Hakko years earlier and saved myself countless hours of frustration.

[Rick Law]

Some cheap tools are just fine.  Others are worse than a waste of money.  Unfortunately, by the time you can tell the difference you can usually afford more expensive tools and have most of the tools you need.

Cheap tools may be a good way to learn exactly what you need first (and how to care for it first) before investing on a better long term one.  After you learn the applicability of the tool and what feature you may miss or never even use, things like that, you are far better equipped to pick the more expensive long-term tool.

For consumable (wear down) tools, I actually prefer the cheap-but-within-reason ones.  Like a fresh (cheaper) cutting disc that cuts just a few times --  instead of using an older longer lasting but a little duller disc because of wear.  That way, when I start a series job, I start with a fresh disc.

Even wire-cutter fits that profile at times.  Eventually, they seem to develop some dull spots.  The damn thing is 99% good, just a lone dull spot because I cut something way too heavy that one time.  Too wasteful to throw it out, but so annoying when I happen to cut at that dull spot.

[LaurentR]

I find that the real issue is to figure out when to go cheap and when to go expensive. It's never obvious.

To stay on the Harbor Freight topic, I bought 2 sets of metric and SAE wrenches (made in different countries despite being sold in a similar package). After rounding one too many bolts with the metric set, I measured them and discovered the sizes were all over the place. Who would have thought you can get a 14mm wrench wrong by 0.5mm?
Then Harbor Freight also sells the "industry standard" $69 1.5ton aluminum car jack. I have never seen one fail although I have seen hundreds in use and it's much cheaper than anything else. Go figure.

I tend to buy:
* Cheap for anything that I know has really good reputation (see HF jack above) or something that is disposable or is unlikely to fail at its job (e.g. a big pipe wrench).
* Moderately expensive, known brand for most everything that I need to rely on. A good example is the Ryobi line of battery-powered tools. Most do their job well. For an occasional user, they are generally sufficient and the ecosystem is vast.
* Expensive when I need to or it provides sufficient productivity increase (or frustration decrease). Going used for those is often a good option to control costs. This can be screwdrivers (having one very good set of screwdrivers, wire cutters, stripper is invaluable) or test equipment (Fluke 87V, Metcal system...).

[GreyWoolfe]

I have a HF compressor and a series of nailers from a pin nailer to a framing nailer.  Bought everything on sale about 12 years ago and for my occasional use, they work just fine.  If it is something I will use regularly, I would rather spend more and get better quality. 

[james_s]

That reminds me, I have a Harbor Freight pneumatic brad nailer that is fantastic, the trigger feels cheap and flimsy but every other part is precisely made and has a nice solid feel. Another similar one I was considering cost 6 times the price and had terrible reviews, the cheap one had great reviews so I bought it. So often these days the expensive stuff is the same cheap Chinese product with a different name slapped on it. I'm willing to pay a premium for something that is truly better but I'm not going to pay 5 times as much just for a name.

[KL27x]

Cheap tools are often quite awesome. 

Headaches? They're in hindsight. If you start at the top, there's nowhere to go but down. If you start at the bottom, things just gets better and better in w/e it is you continue to invest in for fun/work/hobby/profit. I mean, you have no idea how good you have it if you start with all the best... Then you get those first world problems, lol. Ennui, the French call it?

[KL27x]

Also for hobbyist (or even professional that is still human), tools are not necessarily much different than toys. I just bought 8.00 analog DMM from Walmart. Tool? Toy? I dunno, but if it inspires me to use it, it will be worth the cost.

[eKretz]

Unless they see very infrequent use, (like once in 10 years) I never buy cheaply made tools. High quality tools can easily be had on eBay or at yard/garage sales for almost the price of cheap tools or even less as long as you don't try to buy the latest greatest model and you have some patience. I have probably scored over 3/4 of my tools this way, and I've probably got a couple truckloads worth. A recent example - a Fluke 87V with TL71 leads and a very nice Fluke lead set in a Velcro closure roll for less than $100 on Craigslist.

[KL27x]

I've probably got a couple truckloads worth. A recent example - a Fluke 87V with TL71 leads and a very nice Fluke lead set in a Velcro closure roll for less than $100 on Craigslist.

^ Watch out for rabbit holes.

When you seek out quality tools of which you already have, I'm guessing, at least 3 or 4 of... you're not really getting any benefit from the quality, anymore!!  Last-a-lifetime quality is supposed to be a benefit of only needing ONE, no longer worrying about it... and actually using said tool to accomplish things (that don't entail collecting more of same).

I wake up at the bottom of a rabbit hole every now and then. Gotta clear the bench, reprioritize, and thin out those truckloads, myself.

[janoc]

Also for hobbyist (or even professional that is still human), tools are not necessarily much different than toys. I just bought 8.00 analog DMM from Walmart. Tool? Toy? I dunno, but if it inspires me to use it, it will be worth the cost.

Well, yes, but you probably know that you shouldn't go anywhere near mains with that kind of "toy". An average hobbyist or newbie that buys this kind of thing doesn't know that - until it stops working or, worse, blows up in their hands.

Case in point - colleague from work is redoing some lighting in his house and also bought one of these. Didn't work and when we opened it, the wire connecting one of the input terminals was detached and freely rattling inside around the PCB! Scary stuff, considering he was using it to check mains wiring!

[KL27x]

^ I personally don't understand the "must use Fluke" for mains mentality. If DMM doesn't work, then I obviously won't use it on anything. BTW, if this is the same model (I bought mine last week) you have to open the housing to put the battery in, so I've already given mine the once over.

Insulation from mains is pretty easy. Are probes and leads covered in plastic? Yes? Is the housing of the DMM made of plastic? Yes? Ok, I'm good. Lol. 120V is not scary because of DMM you use, but the safety protocol you employ. Wear shoes. Don't touch bare wires while they're live, and only one at a time when they're not.

If my DMM catches fire, it's ok. I don't carry it in my pants while using it. It's hard to read that way. There are plenty of mains devices that I use every day which are not made to Fluke standards. While I'm measuring mains (with any DMM), I'm at least aware of it for the seconds or minutes for this operation. If I have to probe mains once in a while, I am not going to buy a Fluke. (I actually have got a Fluke for free and have never used it.)

If several hundreds of volts or if I do this day in day out, maybe I start being more particular.

Basically, you should be more scared of shoddy wiring in things that can start a fire while you're asleep than the quality of your DMM. IMO.

[james_s]

It's a bigger issue in 240V land, or if you're working on something commercial or industrial, 277V lighting circuit or 480V. While 120V is not likely to do any spectacular damage, I've seen what can happen when something shorts in 480V equipment and the flash & bang is an order of magnitude more exciting than on 120V. A person could easily be seriously injured by a cheap multimeter failing on that, there's a good chance the housing would explode.

[nanofrog]

Cheap tools may be a good way to learn exactly what you need first (and how to care for it first) before investing on a better long term one.  After you learn the applicability of the tool and what feature you may miss or never even use, things like that, you are far better equipped to pick the more expensive long-term tool.

For consumable (wear down) tools, I actually prefer the cheap-but-within-reason ones.  Like a fresh (cheaper) cutting disc that cuts just a few times --  instead of using an older longer lasting but a little duller disc because of wear.  That way, when I start a series job, I start with a fresh disc.

Even wire-cutter fits that profile at times.  Eventually, they seem to develop some dull spots.  The damn thing is 99% good, just a lone dull spot because I cut something way too heavy that one time.  Too wasteful to throw it out, but so annoying when I happen to cut at that dull spot.

I buy based on usage these days, but I also had to learn the hard way too many times to count. It certainly made me appreciate better tools that are frequently used.

As per dull spots on your cutters, manufacturers typically offer resharpening services, and they'll sharpen any brand (~$8 last I checked Swanstrom). You can typically sharpen them 3 times before they're worn out, giving you a much longer service life which also translates to a lot more financial value as well.