Desktop CNC

[mtdoc]

For an amazingly capable, inexpensive and portable band saw solution I can highly recommend the following.

That looks AWESOME for my tiny shop.....thanks!

I added the link to the Swag table. I bought mine from Amazon but it turns out it is cheaper ($129) directly from Swag.
Version 3.0 is the one compatible with the Bauer band saw.

[cstratton]

Given the portable tool heritage that looks like it uses a brushed universal motor.

It may give easy speed control as a result, but beware that such tools are far noisier than conventional fixed machinery powered by induction motors.  A bandsaw should be nearly silent especially when it's not cutting anything resonant.

Doesn't mean it's a bad thing to own, just be aware of the tradeoffs.

Also, don't buy a bandsaw until you've used a proper hacksaw with the right blade in a tubular steel frame - while not a bandsaw, it's a much more pleasant experience than the usual stamped frame hardware store variety.  And quite cheap too.

[mtdoc]

Given the portable tool heritage that looks like it uses a brushed universal motor.

It may give easy speed control as a result, but beware that such tools are far noisier than conventional fixed machinery powered by induction motors.  A bandsaw should be nearly silent especially when it's not cutting anything resonant.

Doesn't mean it's a bad thing to own, just be aware of the tradeoffs.

There are always trade offs.

Yes it's a brushed motor. It even comes with a set of replacement brushes.

But the speed control is essential IMO and it is not very loud.  A trade off I'll take any day.

Also, don't buy a bandsaw until you've used a proper hacksaw with the right blade in a tubular steel frame - while not a bandsaw, it's a much more pleasant experience than the usual stamped frame hardware store variety.

Ha!  right. I've used high quality hack saws. No way I would try and use one to cut 2" x 4" aluminum stock or 1/4" thick steel...  ( did plenty of that nasty work when I was 16 and had no choice).

[rx8pilot]

Good luck, I hope it works out for sure.

Have a look at Harvey Tools. They have some excellent V tools, drills, end mills for this type of work. I have used them for years.



Short and misplld from my mobile......

[Dubbie]

Also don’t get sucked in with no-name Ali-express tooling. The name brand stuff works a LOT better and when you factor in wasted time and scrapped parts, it can work out cheaper.

When you are cutting aluminium, be aware that you must have some lube on the tool or else the chips will weld to the tool and it will break in a fraction of a second. Recutting chips can also cause this, so you need to clear chips either with vacuum or air or manually with a brush.

Lastly you should seriously look at fusion360. It’s free for you and the CAM is easy to learn and up with the best out there.

[ovnr]

According to Carbide 3D, there's no need to use lube, though if I want to do hard metals I will have to.
Regardless, I plan to cut in a pan of lube, just like shown in TSP115. It's worth the trouble even only for noise and dust reduction since I plan to use it as a home lab equipment.

Just because the somewhat dubious manufacturer says something doesn't mean it's the best thing to do. Also, while I didn't watch the entire TSP115 video, you do not want to submerge the workpiece in lube if you're doing metals. Chip control and evacuation will be an absolute nightmare. It's fine if you're just engraving a PCB, but for actual milling, it'd be no good.

(Disclaimer: I'm rather unimpressed with the Carbide 3D thing and anyone who touts "Made by Makers!" as a feature lose rather a bit of credibility.)

[ovnr]

Then I think I'm in trouble. The Nomad 883 Pro doesn't came with a chip tray or anything similar, so if I have to add lube without submerging the parts, I will need a way to collect the lube, or just buy a huge bakery tray to house the entire machine.

You don't have to do flood coolant. Just squirt some on while it's working.

If you plan on using a vise, I'd consider adding one of those thick foil aluminium baking/food trays underneath - just cut some holes for whatever fastening method you're using. Add some light waterproofing to avoid leaks. You will want a wet/dry shop vac anyway, so just vacuum up the chips and coolant/lube every so often.

A lot of commercial aluminium machining is done with mist coolant (often ethanol for faster drying), but that's probably not a massively good idea in an enclosed lab. Plus you'd need an air compressor to run it.

[rx8pilot]

You can cut steel dry with carbide tools. As stated, aluminum will stick to the gullies of the tool causing them to break milliseconds later. Taking very light cuts rubs the material away, dulling the tool far quicker than going faster and actually cutting the material away.

Lots of non intuitive details in machining. Mist coolant can work well but needs a lot of compressed air. It also throws chips a mist film everywhere - not sure the carbide 3D machine will tolerate much of that.

Short and misplld from my mobile......

[rx8pilot]

Look into the concept of 'Chip Load'.

It refers to how much material a cutting tool bites off on each rotation. It is a product of the spindle RPM, the number of cutting flutes and the speed it is being moved through the material.

It is obvious that there is a maximum chip load, but there is also a minimum chip load where the cutter transitions from being a cutter to being a grinder.

Also don’t get sucked in with no-name Ali-express tooling. The name brand stuff works a LOT better and when you factor in wasted time and scrapped parts, it can work out cheaper.

When you are cutting aluminium, be aware that you must have some lube on the tool or else the chips will weld to the tool and it will break in a fraction of a second. Recutting chips can also cause this, so you need to clear chips either with vacuum or air or manually with a brush.

Lastly you should seriously look at fusion360. It’s free for you and the CAM is easy to learn and up with the best out there.

Yes - all of my very high-end carbide tools are lower cost than the various no-name tools I have tried. In some cases, a tool with 10x (or more) the purchase price is still lower cost. Cheap tools slow you down, scrap parts, and have to be replaced all the time. With that in mind, a beginner with a cheap machine tends to break tools more by accident or misuse rather than natural wear. Cheap machines also have big runout numbers on the spindle (regardless of manufacturer claims). Runout kills tools FAST.

F360 is a great option, not sure what the Carbide 3D machine requires. Many of these maker machines have a 'flavor' of G-code or some anomaly that makes it harder to program.

From their email, they said the rated accuracy is based on actual measurement of machined parts with only factory calibration, with fine user calibration it can be better.

I am very skeptical of the claim. It will also change considerably under loads. The system is inherently absent of rigidity and the acme nuts take up backlash with a spring.
Wishing there was one in my area to measure reality. Maybe even borrow a Renishaw ball bar to really paint a picture of its capability.
 

[Koen]

We need a "Renishaw ballbar Without Borders" organization to send free ballbars to manufacturers with outrageous claims.

[Koen]

Jokes aside, if you're going to make powder as-in the manufacturer's videos, don't mix lubricant with it. It will only form a thick paste which will clog the tool, heat up everything and break some flutes.

Evacuate the powder, by blowing or vacuuming.

[rx8pilot]

We need a "Renishaw ballbar Without Borders" organization to send free ballbars to manufacturers with outrageous claims.

 
 

[rx8pilot]

Jokes aside, if you're going to make powder as-in the manufacturer's videos, don't mix lubricant with it. It will only form a thick paste which will clog the tool, heat up everything and break some flutes.

Evacuate the powder, by blowing or vacuuming.

Maybe cutting a vacuum port in the side along with a mister would be functional. Modest air pressure and minimum mist to get the job done. The vac (hopefully) will keep the mist/dust at a manageable level.

[Magnum]

Build something like this (maybe a bit smaller):


Works great for PCBs and even cools the flute a bit with the airflow.

[mrpackethead]

Dont' underestimate how nasty cutting FR4 is. It is highly abrasive, and wears tools out really quickly..    its really important to keep it clean..  and FR4 dusty is just the stuff that goes everywhere.