Author Topic: Vaccum desoldering station recommendation (Read 25481 times)

dorkshoei · « **on:** October 22, 2015, 04:26:59 pm »

I'm looking for a vacuum desoldering station. I used to have a Weller DS600 but sold it as I wasn't doing much electronics at the time. In hindsight I should have kept it.

Anyhow. find myself needing something again (my need is through-hole on old boards). The one nice thing about Weller is that parts are readily available (even if it's discontinued, eBay seems to have steady supply cheap). So I'd like to avoid some no-name where parts will be unobtainium in a year (even if it's cheap, as I hate the disposable electronics culture).

Problem is I'd like to stay around $100-150 for just a desoldering unit. Any recommendations (new or used) that I should be focusing on. I guess I'd be willing to pay more for a combined desolder/rework station.

smbaker · « **Reply #1 on:** October 23, 2015, 05:05:14 am »

I have a Hakko 808. It's a self-contained gun rather than a desoldering station, but it seems to work reasonably well. Hakko seems to have discontinued it (in favor of the FR-300?), but Aoyue seems to have made a knock-off in the Aoyue 8800.

I'm not sure how the handheld guns compare in performance to a tabletop desoldering station. My biggest issue is that usually I'm too lazy to drag it out of the drawer, clear off some bench space, and fire it up, and just go for some desoldering wick instead.

KL27x · « **Reply #2 on:** October 23, 2015, 05:48:47 am »

I was going to withhold comment.

Quote

My biggest issue is that usually I'm too lazy to drag it out of the drawer, clear off some bench space, and fire it up, and just go for some desoldering wick instead.

Now I can't hold back. Buy a good solder sucker. Sorry OP. Sidetrack city.

DP-100: http://www.amazon.com/Jonard-DP-100-Vacuum-Desoldering-Length/dp/B001DPUXWG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1445578996&sr=8-2&keywords=dp-100

http://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-Heavy-Vacuum/dp/B006GOKVKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445579027&sr=8-1&keywords=soldapullt

I have a roll of solderwick. Bought it nearly ten years ago, and I have 75% of it still left. Using the right soldering iron tip, bridges are... what's a bridge? It's nothing but some extra solder to pick up and redistribute when my iron tip gets dry.

But solderwick doesn't remove thru hole parts or clear plated through holes. Hence a good solder sucker is simply must-have. I have used the $6.00 suckers; broke 3 of them. And they don't have the power on plated thru holes. These do. (Cut a notch in the tip and hold it over the iron!)

FTR, I have a cheap vacuum desoldering gun, and I never use it. You have to run it super hot to keep the nozzle from clogging. Tips wear out fast as a result. The thing is more of a PITA to clean than a solder sucker. And like smbaker says, it takes a long time to warm up.

I wouldn't even think about plugging in and turning on my desoldering station unless I had a big ole batch of through hole screw-ups to fix. And it still probably wouldn't save time/effort over a good solder sucker... it would just be more fun to change things up. Fiddling with the little spring and filter when cleaning it. Using wire to clean the nozzle. Putting the fiddly parts back together. Errr... The solder suckers break in half, dump the contents, peel off the solder sticking on the end of the plunger, and clean the steel rod. Slap back together and ready to rock. If you have two of them, you can go twice as long. IMO, the average hobbyist needs a cheap desoldering gun about as much as an extra thumb. If you think it looks good on your bench, it won't be a total waste of bench space.

nidlaX · « **Reply #3 on:** October 23, 2015, 07:06:57 am »

As KL27x says, the 808 style guns can be extremely annoying to clean and service, which is why I returned mine (the ZD version that Dave has reviewed) in favor of a hand pump and wick.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk

Shock · « **Reply #4 on:** October 23, 2015, 07:59:28 am »

Nothing wrong with an electronic desoldering pump. But you should buy one after mastering the desoldering wick and the solder sucker (manual/hand pump) first. Hot air rework stations (Chinese ones are about $50) are more practical than electronic pumps as it both solders and desolders smd and can desolder huge through hole components on ground planes without needing an assortment of tips, also good for heatshrink, quite a useful tool.

Anyway one of the new designs is the HAKKO FR-300. The ZD-917 and ZD-915 and what ever brands they are sold as had some bad experiences here on the forum.

SteveLy · « **Reply #5 on:** October 23, 2015, 10:15:06 am »

Dave's desoldering station:

They go for around $AU180, which is about $US140.

GreyWoolfe · « **Reply #6 on:** October 23, 2015, 12:31:20 pm »

I got the ZD-985 based on Dave's review. The only times I have clogged it up is if I don't let it run for a moment after lifting off of the pcb so the solder goes into the catch tube. I also use wick if I just have a couple of joints to clean. The ZD-985 does work pretty well and I have a 25% off next purchase from memotronics. It does seem that it isn't available any more but memotronics does stock all the consumables from tips and filters to whole replacement guns.

John Coloccia · « **Reply #7 on:** October 23, 2015, 02:19:26 pm »

I have a 472D with a selection of tips. It works very well. Yes, it does require some maintenance depending on how much you use it, but the maintenance is very simple/fast, and the consumables are cheap. I typically service mine once or twice a week, depending on use, and I use it pretty much everyday. Great station.

Desoldering pumps are OK. They're certainly cheap, and they do sorta work for some jobs. That said, if your boards are tight, like many production boards are, and you need to desolder reliably without damage, it's hard to beat a real desoldering station.

Dave's looked pretty cool. It didn't seem available in the USA when I was in the market, and I worried about availability of consumables if I ordered one from overseas. Maybe the situation is changed now? Looks like it would make a great hobbyist station.

jeff.remus · « **Reply #8 on:** October 24, 2015, 11:46:49 am »

Pace works great, metcal was better, jbc is the best

PA4TIM · « **Reply #9 on:** October 24, 2015, 04:09:18 pm »

Here a Pace too. Bought a used one a few years ago for 250 euro (MBT250, solder iron, soldersucker , tweezers, stands, manuals, spares, tools, accessories and tips )
Replaced the solder-iron last year and the heaterelement of the sucker (the latter was my own fault)

Before Pace I used the non heated soldersuckers (removed the piston/spring and connected a vacuum pump instead)
I sometimes use wick.

I have a cheap desoldergun I never use. It is complete useless. It does not have enough heating power, get clogged etc.

0xdeadbeef · « **Reply #10 on:** October 24, 2015, 04:13:40 pm »

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/best-desoldering-station-in-the-market/

jahck2 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 19, 2018, 03:33:28 pm »

I advise you if I should buy a DS600 weller, I have managed to get this new station, and I would like to know your opinion if you buy this DS600 weller or a hakko or another brand, thank you.

Southerner · « **Reply #12 on:** May 03, 2018, 11:19:32 pm »

Quote from: KL27x on October 23, 2015, 05:48:47 am

Buy a good solder sucker. Sorry OP. Sidetrack city.

That might be ok for some but it does not work very well if the joint cools before I can get the sucker over the joint and activated before it re solidifies. It is particulary bad in through hole plated connections of which I am dealing now. I, too, am trying to find a decent desoldering station. I ordered a Star Tec 90101_US yesterday after corresponding with a salesman for 2 months. Today they refunded my money saying the 901 (I thought it was 902 from this page:
http://www.startecproducts.de/index_eng.php?page=ent_eng#top

was what I wanted for my Weller WTCPT iron but guess it was the 90101. At any rate, I was told that because they have no UL rating they can't sell me one for use in USA and would not tell me what transformer it uses so I could do the mod myself. The Hakko FR300 FR301 and Chinese clones might be ok but look to be a bit large.

Seph.b · « **Reply #13 on:** May 03, 2018, 11:49:42 pm »

Tip I discovered to make the little $3 suckers work worth a crap. Spray a bit of oil in them next time they spring apart on you. You get a tiny bit of smoke with each suck, but they have way more suction since they can spring back faster. Your fume extractor will take care of the smoke so it is a none issue.

Edit: Forgot a word.

Acecool · « **Reply #14 on:** May 07, 2018, 05:16:48 pm »

I'm looking for a unit too... I'm sick of the spring loaded pump - it's annoying to use...

I noticed someone attached a fish o2 pump or something to a clear line to one of the cheap $6 units and took out the plunger... The author reported that it works well, but I'm not sure because of the heat issue - although they said the heat goes up because of constant force... http://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-air-soldering-gun-from-a-desoldering-iron-with/

I've been looking into guns and other units - but what has always been a problem for me is heat with old soldering irons so I'm not about to spend $6 on one of these because I know it won't work for what I do....

I may end up getting a desoldering station, or simply get a gun and modify the wires so I can plug it into a slot on my Zeny 853D ( Either the 8 wire plug for the heater, or the 5 wire plug for the iron ) but I still need to find the wiring diagrams, get a gun, etc.... then I'd have a desoldering 'station' as part of my rework station - worst case I could enlarge the case to add an extra plug, and electronics if I can find a DYI solution or electronics on eBay or elsewhere.... I really need to get a 3D printer... that'd help a lot...

GerryBags · « **Reply #15 on:** May 07, 2018, 05:30:30 pm »

I got one of the Aoyue 474A++ guns, and it works fairly well as long as you remember to keep the filter in the airway on the gun moist. Once it dries out it doesn't suck properly and the pump gets louder. The tip temp seems fairly accurate (within a couple of degrees) and it gets there fairly fast. For the price, I can't complain.

Acecool · « **Reply #16 on:** May 08, 2018, 05:34:23 am »

By adding moisture you're adding resistance to the airflow or to a seal... You probably just have a bad O-Ring somewhere which is why it isn't sucking properly... The filter comes into contact / or fills the area at the back, from what I've seen of all guns, where the o-ring is supposed to seal.. By adding fluid, with the filter material you're clogging the leak, essentially.... So if you just fix that area by adding a bigger washer / o-ring, or something around that area then you'll likely resolve the issues...

As for me - I'm thinking of buying just a gun and using an air blower motor I have and wiring it up to my current rework station... It really doesn't look all complicated... I could wire it up in a way that it uses either the heat-gun area ( especially as that means I can use the dial to control the power of the motor ) but I'd probably need to add an extra circuit and a switch to switch the dial from sucking motor control / power to the different motor - or I wonder.... it may be possible to build a simple attachment to the heat-gun motor to disable the heat, and reverse the leads on the motor with a switch so it sucks - then it'll be cool area being sucked and that could act as the vacuum... Then I wouldn't need to use a secondary motor, I'd have control over the amount is sucks - and I'd wire up a trigger to enable / disable it... so I'd have to set up a relay probably so it's closed by default except when the gun is plugged in - and I'll likely need a second connection for that....

I'm going to look up mods to see what others have done - because if I can simply add the feature to my existent rework station ( ZENY 853D - which I already modified in the past so be able to remove the heat-gun just like the soldering iron / want ) then I'll be more likely to actually use it because it'll be there.......

It's probably better if I have a 3rd plug to connect the gun into, then I'd need the nipple, filter area for the motor and it is probably best to have a separate motor inside the unit..

Is there an electrical circuit which can remember the potentiometer state, or whatever the dial does in my unit ( does anyone have a wiring diagram for it? ) so I can keep the heat gun plugged in, and flick a switch so if I want to use the desoldering gun and the heat gun at the same time, I can adjust the dial then flick a switch and it'll then be used for the vacuum motor instead.....

Looks like I have some work to do... but it could be a fun project and I'll see about documenting my progress if I end up doing it so others with the same, or similar unit can get away with spending $40 or so on a gun, and $5 or so for a motor, give or take up to $5, and a few extra for connectors, wire, etc.. dial, etc.. although I'm sure there are already motor controllers incredibly inexpensively..

I just need to see how much power my unit can currently provide so see if I have to add to the board a separate power circuit or if I can piggyback...

Any advice would be appreciated - and if anyone has a wiring diagram for the Zeny 853D it'd be greatly appreciated...

Oh - I am open to the idea of buying the ZD-985 but someone said there was a huge flaw in the design which could lead to a fire or other issue ( ended up discoloring their tip after it went to 800 or 900 degrees??? )... and I don't want to spend $200 on something with a flaw that big...

I'd prefer to only spend $100...

BradC · « **Reply #17 on:** May 08, 2018, 08:15:01 am »

Quote from: Acecool on May 08, 2018, 05:34:23 am

I'm thinking of buying just a gun and using an air blower motor I have and wiring it up to my current rework station...

Any advice would be appreciated

I think you'll struggle. Actually, I *know* you will. Your current rework station is built for flow, not pressure. You'll need vacuum to get solder through a gun.
Look at the whole picture from the tip through to the pump. Small tubes, small orifices, restrictive filters.. All those require a significant pressure differential to get a workable flow.

The Aoyue unit uses a double acting diaphragm positive displacement pump. It makes enough vacuum to do the job (barely). Look at the Hakko original and it uses a DC motor driven small positive displacement pump. It makes considerably more vacuum.

Now look at your *** 853D rework station. It has (or appears to) a centrifugal blower. Plenty of flow at next to no static pressure. Wrong tool for the job.

As for this :

Quote from: Acecool on May 08, 2018, 05:34:23 am

So if you just fix that area by adding a bigger washer / o-ring, or something around that area then you'll likely resolve the issues...

By properly sealing the vacuum path and pump on my Aouye 701A, I increased the ultimate (measured) vacuum by over half. That made it go from "workable" to "really not too bad". The biggest issue is the pump down time when you pull the trigger as the pump has a fair bit of dead space on the vacuum size. So you're starting at atmospheric and waiting for it to pull down 11" of vac to give the flow from the tip. Not ideal.

My next experiment is to take the 24VDC vacuum pump and solenoid I have sitting in a box here, add a vacuum reservoir and see what improves when I go from 11" of vacuum to 18". It should also give a much more "instant" vacuum.

bsudbrink · « **Reply #18 on:** May 08, 2018, 11:14:05 pm »

I'll add another vote for a PACE MBT-250 and an SX-80 or better hand piece. Can be had for reasonable money used, easy to service and well built. "Snap-VAC" works very well and the SX-80, SX-90, SX-100 tips never clog (for me anyway). Disposable traps are a plus. Changed in seconds, you don't even need to power off the unit. The hand pieces are nice and light, compared to the all-in-one guns especially. I have a Hakko 808 too, but haven't used it in years.

GreyWoolfe · « **Reply #19 on:** May 09, 2018, 02:12:30 am »

Quote from: Acecool on May 08, 2018, 05:34:23 am

Oh - I am open to the idea of buying the ZD-985 but someone said there was a huge flaw in the design which could lead to a fire or other issue ( ended up discoloring their tip after it went to 800 or 900 degrees??? )... and I don't want to spend $200 on something with a flaw that big...

Mine doesn't get used that often but I have never had anything like that happen. I have set the temp to 800 degrees to help me free the tube when I don't desolder properly but it has never run away on temp. The 2 issues I had was a failed heating element and I burned a hole in the vacuum tube by accident.

GerryBags · « **Reply #20 on:** May 09, 2018, 02:17:44 am »

Quote from: Acecool on May 08, 2018, 05:34:23 am

By adding moisture you're adding resistance to the airflow or to a seal... You probably just have a bad O-Ring somewhere which is why it isn't sucking properly... The filter comes into contact / or fills the area at the back, from what I've seen of all guns, where the o-ring is supposed to seal.. By adding fluid, with the filter material you're clogging the leak, essentially.... So if you just fix that area by adding a bigger washer / o-ring, or something around that area then you'll likely resolve the issues...

It says in the instructions not to let it dry out, as suction will be impaired.

bson · « **Reply #21 on:** May 09, 2018, 04:00:26 am »

The Hakko FR-300 is the cat's meow. TH parts take no time to speak off to remove, just wiggle and suck. For SMD it cleans up old solder really well, just run the nozzle over the pads and it's nice and clean again to get the replacement on there (and more importantly, level). Just hot air to remove, suck clean, repaste, place IC, hot air, and it's like original again.

DimitriP · « **Reply #22 on:** May 09, 2018, 04:17:26 am »

Quote from: bsudbrink on May 08, 2018, 11:14:05 pm

I'll add another vote for a PACE MBT-250 and an SX-80 or better hand piece. Can be had for reasonable money used, easy to service and well built. "Snap-VAC" works very well and the SX-80, SX-90, SX-100 tips never clog (for me anyway). Disposable traps are a plus. Changed in seconds, you don't even need to power off the unit. The hand pieces are nice and light, compared to the all-in-one guns especially. I have a Hakko 808 too, but haven't used it in years.

You can say that again!

..and you don't have to worry about getting a clone/fake either

I'm not a fan of many brands, but Pace is one of them. Especially for tools that "suck"

helius · « **Reply #23 on:** May 09, 2018, 04:20:13 am »

Quote from: BradC on May 08, 2018, 08:15:01 am

The biggest issue is the pump down time when you pull the trigger as the pump has a fair bit of dead space on the vacuum size. So you're starting at atmospheric and waiting for it to pull down 11" of vac to give the flow from the tip. Not ideal.

My next experiment is to take the 24VDC vacuum pump and solenoid I have sitting in a box here, add a vacuum reservoir and see what improves when I go from 11" of vacuum to 18". It should also give a much more "instant" vacuum.

Some of the Hakko units I have seen (like the 472) have a spring-driven check valve in the vacuum path to reduce the dead space. Some stations do use a reservoir/solenoid arrangement (OKI MTR-4000 I think has it).

Southerner · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2018, 06:24:07 am »

Quote from: GerryBags on May 07, 2018, 05:30:30 pm

I got one of the Aoyue 474A++ guns, and it works fairly well as long as you remember to keep the filter in the airway on the gun moist.

How do you keep it moist? Water? Oil?

Southerner · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2018, 06:34:49 am »

I would love to get a Pace or Metcal or even a Hakko but they are out of my budget.

I have not seen them very cheap even on the used scene or ebay.

I even tried to purchase a Star Tec but they do not make them for use in the USA.

I have pieces of things. I have a Weller DS1000 and a WD2000 vacuum unit but no iron or vacuum chamber or foot pedal for them and have not had much luck finding one on ebay or the used market.

For that reason I am thinking about the Aoyue 474++ or the 701A+. I am leaning toward the 701A more because it is a soldering station as well as a desoldering station. I do not need or want a rework station. I am hoping that the 701 is of decent quality to mimmick the Hakko 701 that it is cloned from.

Any comments or suggestions?

Thank you.

BradC · « **Reply #26 on:** May 09, 2018, 06:37:31 am »

Quote from: GerryBags on May 09, 2018, 02:17:44 am

It says in the instructions not to let it dry out, as suction will be impaired.

Replace it with the Genuine Hakko "ceramic" equivalent filter and never worry about it again. As a bonus the Hakko filters actually filter stuff.

BradC · « **Reply #27 on:** May 09, 2018, 06:43:53 am »

Quote from: Southerner on May 09, 2018, 06:34:49 am

I am hoping that the 701 is of decent quality to mimmick the Hakko 701 that it is cloned from.

It's not great out of the box (or wasn't back when I bought mine). The desoldering tips have improved a bit since I bought mine though (I got some Aoyue new ones a couple of years ago). I gave mine a birthday and I'm pretty happy with it as a daily driver now.

My list :
- Replace all O-rings including the missing one from the input port on the base.
- Replace the soldering iron tip with a Genuine Hakko
- Dismantle and re-assemble the pump with neutral cure silicone sealant on all gaskets.
- Dismantle the desoldering handpiece and remove/block the vacuum indicator. It's useless *and* it leaks.
- Replace the filters, tube, seal and spring on the desoldering handpiece with Hakko parts
- Make an adapter to use Hakko tips on the desoldering gun.

Once I did that I saw a quantum leap in usability for the desoldering gun. The soldering iron has been fine with a Hakko tip on it.
The Hakko desoldering tips are so much better than the Aoyue tips it just isn't funny.

rauloliv · « **Reply #28 on:** May 10, 2018, 09:49:02 am »

I have the 710 unit. The best thing about it having cross compatible parts from other brands.

I think the design changed from the first units like mine, but my experience (heavy use) with the stock gun:
The tips are horrible, just wont last (the wider are worse). The vaccum indicator leaks. The heater element barrel joint to the gun is week and breaks. Filters are not good and flux residues enter the pump.

I rebuilt mine with some parts from Quick/ Hakko / Thomas, works great and i use it everyday all the time!

Southerner · « **Reply #29 on:** May 10, 2018, 03:11:49 pm »

Quote from: BradC on May 09, 2018, 06:43:53 am

My list :
- Replace all O-rings including the missing one from the input port on the base.
- Replace the soldering iron tip with a Genuine Hakko
- Dismantle and re-assemble the pump with neutral cure silicone sealant on all gaskets.
- Dismantle the desoldering handpiece and remove/block the vacuum indicator. It's useless *and* it leaks.
- Replace the filters, tube, seal and spring on the desoldering handpiece with Hakko parts
- Make an adapter to use Hakko tips on the desoldering gun.

Once I did that I saw a quantum leap in usability for the desoldering gun. The soldering iron has been fine with a Hakko tip on it.
The Hakko desoldering tips are so much better than the Aoyue tips it just isn't funny.

Do you by chance have the Hakko part numbers you used? What does the Hakko tip adapter look like?

Some of the things you mention are the very things that concerned me about the quality of the Auyou 701 unit.

Thank you.

BradC · « **Reply #30 on:** May 11, 2018, 01:46:09 am »

Quote from: Southerner on May 10, 2018, 03:11:49 pm

Do you by chance have the Hakko part numbers you used? What does the Hakko tip adapter look like?

- Filter in the base - A1009 - Replaced by A1611
- Filter in the gun - A1033
- Filter pipe assembly (tube, spring, seal) - B2073 - Replaced by B3756
- Spring filter separately - A1030
- Tips - A1002 - 0.8mm /1003 - 1.0mm /1007 - 1.6mm

Adapter : https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aoyue-desoldering-tips/msg534046/#msg534046

I originally bought all those components at RS, but they only carry the two filters and the tips now. The filter pipe wasn't a huge upgrade, although the Hakko one is made of a nicer material, finished better (and consequently seals better on both ends). The Hakko springs are much better though. Luckily I bought a pack of 10 along with the new filter pipe.

After a quick search, I see the filter pipe (with original part number) and spring filters are available at Element14.

The biggest improvements were :
- Re-sealing the pump. The Aoyue plastic moulding sealing surfaces are nasty, and the gasket doesn't seal all that well.
- New filters and an O-ring on the filter holder in the base (it didn't come with one at all).
- Removing / plugging the vacuum indicator in the handle.
- Tips. The Hakko tips are so much nicer than the Aoyue ones it's just not funny. I have zero issues paying $25 per tip for the improvement.

I always wanted to try and fit the genuine Hakko heating element to remove the need for the tip adapter, but never quite got around to looking into it. The Aouye heater is a 4 wire (heat/sensor) the Hakko is a 2 wire, so a completely different control methodology.

I'd much rather have bought a second hand Hakko unit, but in Aus they just don't come up that often and if they do people are asking silly prices. This cost me about $150 new + ~$150 worth of Hakko parts plus time. I never object to having to spend money if it means I can justify time in front of the lathe.

Southerner · « **Reply #31 on:** May 11, 2018, 04:35:49 am »

Quote from: BradC on May 11, 2018, 01:46:09 am

Quote from: Southerner on May 10, 2018, 03:11:49 pm
Do you by chance have the Hakko part numbers you used? What does the Hakko tip adapter look like?

- Filter in the gun - A1033

I was trying to find a source in the USA for those parts. DuckDuckGo gave me a page from HakkoUSA and it says that part A1033 is now: A5044 Ceramic Filter for FR-410, FR-300, 472D and 808

I found one source listing 2 parts but for $22 in parts shipping was $23.

I tried Element14 or rather Newark but they listed no Hakko parts in stock and the 3 they listed are listed as discontinued.

BravoV · « **Reply #32 on:** May 11, 2018, 04:41:59 am »

Becareful when buying Hakko parts, as they're easy to counterfeit, it has only a clear plastic and a simple printed label, example of my Hakko's parts when I repair my old 474, these are genuine parts.

Southerner · « **Reply #33 on:** May 11, 2018, 05:23:39 am »

Quote from: BravoV on May 11, 2018, 04:41:59 am

Becareful when buying Hakko parts, as they're easy to counterfeit, it has only a clear plastic and a simple printed label, example of my Hakko's parts when I repair my old 474, these are genuine parts.

I placed my order with HakkoUSA so hopefully they are ot counterfeit. I did think it interesting that the one page errata sheet I mentioned also listed the A1009 as being replaced by the A1611 but HakkoUSA had no such part. They were/are still selling the A1009 and do not list the A1611. I saw a one item on Amazon but the price was more tha Hakko's.

Thank you.

BradC · « **Reply #34 on:** May 11, 2018, 05:28:25 am »

Quote from: Southerner on May 11, 2018, 04:35:49 am

I was trying to find a source in the USA for those parts. DuckDuckGo gave me a page from HakkoUSA and it says that part A1033 is now: A5044 Ceramic Filter for FR-410, FR-300, 472D and 808

Yes, the A1009 is replaced by A1611 and the A1033 is replaced by A5044. Both of those come in packets of 10, so if they are genuine Hakko filters you are buying 10.

The A1611 & A1033 are both available from Radiospares. I have no idea where you'd look for them in the US, but I'd assume there are Hakko dealers. Both new part numbers are current, as is the B3756 filter pipe. I couldn't find that, but I did find the older B2073 at Element14.

They are all for older machines, so the parts will get harder and harder to find. I should probably buy another set of A1033 filters while they are still available, but I have enough springs to last me a lifetime (I've had to replace one in 8 years and that was due to my damaging it getting a chunk of solder out). I've used a few A1033 filters, but I'm still on my first A1009 also.

helius · « **Reply #35 on:** May 11, 2018, 06:56:12 am »

You can find nearly all Hakko products and spare parts at TEquipment.net. They also continue to list discontinued part numbers and their replacement parts if possible.

BravoV · « **Reply #36 on:** May 11, 2018, 01:40:25 pm »

Quote from: Southerner on May 11, 2018, 05:23:39 am

I placed my order with HakkoUSA so hopefully they are ot counterfeit. I did think it interesting that the one page errata sheet I mentioned also listed the A1009 as being replaced by the A1611 but HakkoUSA had no such part. They were/are still selling the A1009 and do not list the A1611. I saw a one item on Amazon but the price was more tha Hakko's.

If you watch closely the label of A1009 in above photo, it was manufactured in 2016, that photos were taken last year when I bought them. I'm guessing Hakko USA still has plenty of A1009 in their warehouse, and the new designated A1611 will be ordered once the A1009 is completely gone.

Its just different label anyway, with the same exact merchandise, cmiiw.

When I talked to the local Hakko representative last year, they mentioned that Hakko HQ always try to supply old parts if there is still a significant request for it, like my ancient 474, almost all parts even the non consumable ones are still available.

Southerner · « **Reply #37 on:** May 17, 2018, 05:28:17 am »

Quote from: BradC on May 11, 2018, 01:46:09 am

- Filter in the base - A1009 - Replaced by A1611
- Filter in the gun - A1033
- Filter pipe assembly (tube, spring, seal) - B2073 - Replaced by B3756
- Spring filter separately - A1030
- Tips - A1002 - 0.8mm /1003 - 1.0mm /1007 - 1.6mm

Adapter : https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aoyue-desoldering-tips/msg534046/#msg534046

I always wanted to try and fit the genuine Hakko heating element to remove the need for the tip adapter, but never quite got around to looking into it. The Aouye heater is a 4 wire (heat/sensor) the Hakko is a 2 wire, so a completely different control methodology.

I'd much rather have bought a second hand Hakko unit, but in Aus they just don't come up that often and if they do people are asking silly prices. This cost me about $150 new + ~$150 worth of Hakko parts plus time. I never object to having to spend money if it means I can justify time in front of the lathe.

I received the Aoyue 701A and most of the list of Hakko parts you suggested. The Aoyue manual listed a packing list but does not show what each item was (or where it went). Also there are two Hakko filters you list with the statement that one went in the gun. Where in the gun does it go? The filter pipe assembly (Aoyue) has what looks like a piece of cork for a filter. How long does that last?

You mention your adapter. What is the copper tube that goes into the desoldering tip called? Is it part of the heating element or just a pathway tube?

Thank you.

BradC · « **Reply #38 on:** May 17, 2018, 07:45:16 am »

Quote from: Southerner on May 17, 2018, 05:28:17 am

I received the Aoyue 701A and most of the list of Hakko parts you suggested. The Aoyue manual listed a packing list but does not show what each item was (or where it went). Also there are two Hakko filters you list with the statement that one went in the gun. Where in the gun does it go? The filter pipe assembly (Aoyue) has what looks like a piece of cork for a filter. How long does that last?

You mention your adapter. What is the copper tube that goes into the desoldering tip called? Is it part of the heating element or just a pathway tube?

Thank you.

If you look at this image. The one on top is the Aoyue tip. It's a slab of something vaguely related to copper with what appears to be a steel tube pressed into it. That slides into the gun where the tip butts up against the heating element and the tube slides right through it and pokes out into the collection tube. The turned adapter slips into the Hakko tip and presents the same interface to the gun. I used the tube pulled from another Aoyue tip to save me bothering to try and find something compatible.

Rumour has it the Aoyue 701 (no A) was based on the original Hakko design, but the tube in the heater kept clogging, so they fitted the tube to the tip instead so it was replaceable as a unit without damaging the heater.

As for the filter location, perhaps page 25 of the attached pdf might make it clearer. It goes in the back of the filter pipe. Mine came with what looked like a bit of dish sponge cut into a circle with the instructions to keep it wet. I assume that's because it burns pretty easily when it's dry. It was useless.

If you look at the base on page 24. The other filter is item 2. Item 4 is an o-ring to seal that adapter. My Aoyue came without one, and I just grabbed the nearest available size from an O-ring kit to replace it with. That helped the ultimate vacuum quite a bit.

Southerner · « **Reply #39 on:** May 18, 2018, 05:24:01 am »

Quote from: BradC on May 17, 2018, 07:45:16 am

If you look at the base on page 24. The other filter is item 2. Item 4 is an o-ring to seal that adapter. My Aoyue came without one, and I just grabbed the nearest available size from an O-ring kit to replace it with. That helped the ultimate vacuum quite a bit.

That Hakko 701 manual is sure a LOT more detailed than this Aoyue 701A++ manual! The one I got with my unit gives an inventory list but nowhere does it show most of the items in the list. There is no drawing of the gun or the iron or how it goes together other than to show how to extract the solder chamber and it is pretty vague. It would be nice to find a detailed manual for the Aoyue 701A++ like the Hakko 701 manual but so far all I have found is a pdf of the manual that was sent with the unit.

Thank you.

Southerner · « **Reply #40 on:** May 18, 2018, 05:28:12 am »

Quote from: BradC on May 17, 2018, 07:45:16 am

If you look at this image. The one on top is the Aoyue tip. It's a slab of something vaguely related to copper with what appears to be a steel tube pressed into it. That slides into the gun where the tip butts up against the heating element and the tube slides right through it and pokes out into the collection tube. The turned adapter slips into the Hakko tip and presents the same interface to the gun. I used the tube pulled from another Aoyue tip to save me bothering to try and find something compatible.

Rumour has it the Aoyue 701 (no A) was based on the original Hakko design, but the tube in the heater kept clogging, so they fitted the tube to the tip instead so it was replaceable as a unit without damaging the heater.

Ideally what should that tube be made out of and coated with? Does Hakko have a similar arrangement or is it part of the heating element?

I was just wondering how hard it would be to make that assembly so it goes directly into the Hakko tip without having to turn down a Aoyue tip to make an adapter.

Thank you.

BradC · « **Reply #41 on:** May 18, 2018, 06:10:38 am »

I don't think the material is critical as long as it handles the heat and solder does not stick to it.

I made the adapter pictured there out of a bit of copper earth rod, but I did reuse the Aoyue tube.

The original was turned out of an Aoyue tip as a test, because frankly they were useless for desoldering. The plating could not be tinned which significantly limited the heat transfer to the joint, so I had no qualms destroying it. It was a sod to machine and the little extension broke off in use. I don't know what "copper" they used but it wasn't great.

The one in the picture is still in use. I might knock up a spare one day just in case.

Southerner · « **Reply #42 on:** March 09, 2019, 09:42:53 pm »

I did not find a ZD985 or a ZF917 but ended up getting a ZD915. I am wondering if they will also take the Hakko solder chambers and Hakko tips and if the tips and tube also need to be modified like the Aoyou 701A++ require?

Thank you.


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