Desoldering through hole needles, yes, no, maybe?

[kalel]

Are these things useful for desoldering through hole components?



The price is acceptable and there are various sizes in the 8 pieces.
Do you know of any videos where their usage is shown? That might also help to see their effectiveness.

[edavid]

I often use the pointy tool to clear small holes where the vacuum desoldering tool doesn't work.  I haven't found a use for the tubes yet.

A toothpick is almost as good.

[ataradov]

At this price, you might as well buy and have some on hand. Which I'll do right now. I was not aware such a thing exists.

[kalel]

At this price, you might as well buy and have some on hand. Which I'll do right now. I was not aware such a thing exists.

If you do get them and have a chance to experiment a little, let us know how they work out.

[ataradov]

If you do get them and have a chance to experiment a little, let us know how they work out.

Will do. Just ordered a set.

[Gyro]

I often use the pointy tool to clear small holes where the vacuum desoldering tool doesn't work.  I haven't found a use for the tubes yet.

A toothpick is almost as good.

I think the idea is that the tube goes up around the component leg, breaking the solder film and preventing it from sticking again when the joint cools.

P.S. There is also a 10 piece set that goes down to 0.7mm:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Kinds-0-7-1-3mm-Stainless-Steel-Needle-Set-Through-Hole-Desoldering-Welding-/272747812631?hash=item3f81095717:g:Cw4AAOSw6ShZVyJm[/url]

[edavid]

I think the idea is that the tube goes up around the component leg, breaking the solder film and preventing it from sticking again when the joint cools.

I know that's the idea, but if there's enough clearance around the lead to fit the tube, I have no problem getting the solder out with the vacuum tool or a solder sucker.

P.S. There is also a 10 piece set that goes down to 0.7mm:

Ouch!  I think I prefer the plastic handle version.

That looks like a repurposed vacuum desoldering nozzle cleaning set.  I wouldn't want to use those ridged wires on a circuit board, because they would be too likely to rip out the through hole plating.

[kalel]

P.S. There is also a 10 piece set that goes down to 0.7mm:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Kinds-0-7-1-3mm-Stainless-Steel-Needle-Set-Through-Hole-Desoldering-Welding-/272747812631?hash=item3f81095717:g:Cw4AAOSw6ShZVyJm

Regarding the metal set, if used for desoldering (with a soldering iron) would it get too hot to hold? That said, if it gets very hot, I'm not sure about the plastic handle either (depends on what is used), but it should provide some protection from the heat.

[technogeeky]

I'm not sure I understand how this would be used, but I can imagine using it to completely clean the leads of desoldered parts without using up solder wick. That would be kind of nice.

[Gyro]

Regarding the metal set, if used for desoldering (with a soldering iron) would it get too hot to hold? That said, if it gets very hot, I'm not sure about the plastic handle either (depends on what is used), but it should provide some protection from the heat.

Time will tell - I've just ordered one of each type. Stainless steel should be a lot less thermally conductive than copper, especially in thin walled tube.

[ataradov]

I ordered metal stuff as well. I don't think it well heat up fast enough for you to actually fell it.

I also don't think they will be very useful desoldering tools, but I like to have things on hand. They've got to be useful for something.

[BBBbbb]

They are useful, but not too durable (not expected considering the price). Bailed me out a few times, when I didn’t have a desoldering gun.
Sometimes when you have a huge ground plane no sucker+iron will help you, but you can push out the solder from the hole with a needle and clear it that way, some additional cleaning is needed but it gets the job done.

[edavid]

Time will tell - I've just ordered one of each type. Stainless steel should be a lot less thermally conductive than copper, especially in thin walled tube.

The set you linked is just solid wires.

And my experience from using similar wires to clear my desoldering tools is... ouch!

[Gyro]

Damn, you're right. Oh well 99p.

[rqsall]

Demo:

[kalel]

Demo:

Interesting stuff. I agree with a comment that pads could be damaged if not very careful.

[Johnny10]

If you want to screw around that much !

[mcinque]

if there's enough clearance around the lead to fit the tube, I have no problem getting the solder out with the vacuum tool or a solder sucker.

Totally agree.

[kalel]

If you want to screw around that much !

At least it seems to work. I wasn't sure it would. I don't have an automatic desoldering pump which is likely a lot easier, but I'm not much good with using the manual one.

[Gyro]

I've been known to lose the odd pad with a desoldering gun on particularly fragile boards. I can think of a few stubborn cases where using a hollow needle and a flooded joint might be useful. It's a shame they don't go down a bit smaller in diameter - it would be nice to be able to remove things like rare TO99 devices with absolute minimum thermal stress.

... or the odd larger diameter lead without having to stop and change the tip on the desoldering gun.

[kalel]

I've been known to lose the odd pad with a desoldering gun on particularly fragile boards. I can think of a few stubborn cases where using a hollow needle and a flooded joint might be useful. It's a shame they don't go down a bit smaller in diameter - it would be nice to be able to remove things like rare TO99 devices with absolute minimum thermal stress.

Regarding diameters, perhaps there are sets that do?

[Gyro]

Not that I've spotted so far - excluding my previous error! 

[Kleinstein]

I would expect to have enough room for the needle / tube only in some occasions. They are cheap, so maybe it is worth to have some, just in case. Especially parts with only a few pins can usually be removed rather easy.

[nanofrog]

...[snip]...I'm not much good with using the manual one.

What have you used?

Seriously, they're not all the same. I've used the inexpensive models, Edsyn, and an Engineer. The Edsyn works well, though the original is a bit large (Soldapult DS017). They offer more than one model though, and they vary in size. These are such you flip it over and push the plunger down on the bench top for one handed operation.

The Engineer (SS-02) is a lot smaller, which makes it easier to operate with a single hand IME. It also uses a small bit of silicone rubber hose on the end, which does a better job of making a seal vs. the inflexible tip on other types as it's typically held at an angle so you can get the iron on the joint. It allows you to keep the iron on the pad when you push the plunger release vs. perfecting the technique of using an inflexible tip (pull the iron, get the tip perpendicular to the pad, then hit the release button in under 1 second or so).

If the suction is good, you could add a bit of silicone tubing to improve the seal. And it can be had on eBay really inexpensively, so you may be able to improve yours without buying a new tool (say 4mm ID should do for the nylon tips IMHO). Worth a shot IMHO at any rate. 

They are cheap, so maybe it is worth to have some, just in case. Especially parts with only a few pins can usually be removed rather easy.

I agree. 

Manual types certainly work, but can be a PITA. And the cost of a desoldering station makes these very attractive. Heck, even if you toss them every 50 joints or so ($1.46 shipped from China), they're just a consumable like good quality desolder wick (which is still necessary of course).