Hakko 936 ceramic heater A1321 vs fake comparison

[Chalcogenide]

I was able to replace the heater in a rebranded 936A+ (which I believe is the very same as the 936) with an Hakko A1321 clone. It is not a perfect fit, but it does work and I was able to recalibrate the station to work correctly.
This is also a complete handle that works just fine as well (still needed calibration on mine, was consistently too cold when used with default factory calibration - just like the replacement element linked above).

[KludgeIt]

Now you guys got me reexamining my soldering equipment, and heating elements!

It now appears to me that the Yihua 936 station may take the Hakko A1322 element ... and the Hakko 936 controller/dashboard/station may take the A1321.

It also appears that the sellers might be selling IMPROPERLY LABELED/NUMBERED elements, IN SOME OF THE SELLERS LISTINGS.

Further, the A1322 seems to be ~36 watts, and the A1321 50 watts plus. However, most of all my soldering is pc boards, strip boards, proto boards, etc., so both work well for me.

Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!

Comments, anyone?

[Rasz]

Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!

Comments, anyone?

sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.

[KludgeIt]

Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!

Comments, anyone?

sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.

Throw away your pickup truck, and buy a Peterbilt Diesel Rig. Throw away your ford, and buy a Maserati. Move out of you $100,000 home, and into a $10,000,000 mansion. Throw out you Popov Vodka, and buy Smirnoff ... stop just soldering, AND BE TRENDY!

Point being, a man with a full woodworking shop can make a birdhouse. And, a true craftsman, with some wood, and a pocket knife can make a birdhouse ... and a true DIY'er, with some potatoes and a homemade still can make his own Vodka, and instead of 100 proof Vodka, you can have near 200 proof Vodka (200 proof = 100% ETHYL ALCOHOL.)

[Rasz]

Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!

Comments, anyone?

sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.

Throw away your pickup truck, and buy a Peterbilt Diesel Rig. Throw away your ford, and buy a Maserati. Move out of you $100,000 home, and into a $10,000,000 mansion. Throw out you Popov Vodka, and buy Smirnoff ... stop just soldering, AND BE TRENDY!

Point being, a man with a full woodworking shop can make a birdhouse. And, a true craftsman, with some wood, and a pocket knife can make a birdhouse ... and a true DIY'er, with some potatoes and a homemade still can make his own Vodka, and instead of 100 proof Vodka, you can have near 200 proof Vodka (200 proof = 100% ETHYL ALCOHOL.)

you lost me, all I got from this is you need a rehab

[Seekonk]

I want to thank those who put detailed effort into this thread. This thread should become a sticky.  I was searching an ebay seller to bulk up my order when I saw a clone HAKKO 936 replacement head for $3.05 shipped.  I had an old Hex-A-Con with a burnt out element, how bad could this replacement be. It also had a 24V supply though not temperature controlled.  I also have a 12V camp and wanted a low voltage iron that could run off a battery. Also had a number of PID controllers that I could play around with. This can easily drive a triac. These PID controllers are only about $13 shipped.  Easy to program, you only need to enter a P value to get reasonable control.

The new head arrived and was decent enough quality.  I cut the connector off because a mating
connector costs as much as the head itself. K temp sensor is pin 5 BLUE + and pin 4 YELLOW -.
Heater is pin 1 GREEN and pin 2 RED  Pin 3 is iron ground.  I leave this disconnected as I have
shorted out many a circuit with the old grounded iron. Maybe 1-5meg to drain off any static
charge.  I filed a little bit of the fluted head plastic to fit the iron holder and used a round file to open the plastic mount. Why fool around with elements when you can get the whole head this cheap.  Very pleased with this cheap fix.

Powering up the heater with 5VDC, the temperature stabilized at about 110C and at 10V was 300C.
The heater measured 14 ohms and at 12VDC the temperature stabilized at about 440C.  This was .84Aand about 10W would be normal heat loss.  At this point you could possibly solder if not too much heat was drawn away. My solar system battery usually stays a little over 14V so I should be able to do some light soldering without using a boost converter.  This could be switched in and out
as needed.

[KludgeIt]

Hakko 936 clone-case:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HAKKO-936-Soldering-Station-shell-case-with-screw-knob/32424323859.html
Better looking than the Silver Flask I carry my Vodka in!

Controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAKKO936-Soldering-station-control-panel-PCB-A1321-Core-Male-or-Female-Interface-/131489348409?var=&hash=item1e9d603b39:m:mnJ_IE8iiaW_Vhgp7YajMvw

Good tip for strip board, etc.:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/900M-T-1-6D-Soldering-Iron-Tips-For-Solder-HAKKO-907-Soldering-Handle/32510814132.html

Now, just add 24v ~3A transformer, A1321 handle, and power cord!

[Shock]

Hakko 936 clone-case:
Now, just add 24v ~3A transformer, A1321 handle, and power cord!

Or just spend $10.22 (US warehouse and wait for discount to appear) and buy a Yihua 936 clone from HobbyKing.

[KludgeIt]

Hakko 936 clone-case:
Now, just add 24v ~3A transformer, A1321 handle, and power cord!

Or just spend $10.22 (US warehouse and wait for discount to appear) and buy a Yihua 936 clone from HobbyKing.

The price you are quoting DOES NOT include shipping ... mine ended up costing a bit less than $20.00 for the Yihua.

The Yihua, with 132A element in the handle, is only 36 watts. The Hakko, with the A1321 element in the handle, is 50+ watts, the elements for Yihua and Hakko ARE NOT interchangeable. The replacement Hakko elements, A1321, are MUCH cheaper and can be had for as little as $1.05 on ebay, at the time of this post (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-White-Heating-Element-for-HAKKO-Soldering-Station-Iron-A1321-936-937-CA-/161949033608?hash=item25b4ea2488:g:Cf4AAOSwoydWjqMI), plus the A1321 are more prevalent.

Hakko Case:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HAKKO-936-Soldering-Station-shell-case-with-screw-knob/32424323859.html

Hakko Controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAKKO936-Soldering-station-control-panel-PCB-A1321-Core-Male-or-Female-Interface-/131489348409?var=&hash=item1e9d603b39:m:mnJ_IE8iiaW_Vhgp7YajMvw

Just add a scavenged 24V ~3A (or greater) transformer (or purchase one -- http://www.antekinc.com/as-0524-50va-24v-transformer/), handle, and cord.

If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.

[Shock]

... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

The Hakko FX-888D goes on special for $69 a few times a year in the US, so making a 936 clone for $40-50 after all parts are considered (in the US) makes less sense than for other parts of the world.

If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value, the Chinese clone of the HAKKO FX-951 controller (digitally controlled) with fake FM-2027 FM-2028 handle using genuine Hakko T12 T15 series tips gets you a better iron and a similar price if you hunt around.

[KludgeIt]

... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

The Hakko FX-888D goes on special for $69 a few times a year in the US, so making a 936 clone for $40-50 after all parts are considered (in the US) makes less sense than for other parts of the world.

If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value, the Chinese clone of the HAKKO FX-951 controller (digitally controlled) with fake FM-2027 FM-2028 handle using genuine Hakko T12 T15 series tips gets you a better iron and a similar price if you hunt around.

I think you want to "niggle" for me!

I simply pointed out available items, and that a craftsman with $1.99 iron can exceed the efforts of an amateur with a million-dollar soldering station.

... and how cheaply these stations can be maintained.

Just exactly what would you accuse me of "niggling?"

If I "niggled" anything, it would be a $50.00 fifth of Vodka, to a $9.99 fifth! (or even less!)

And, unless I am mistaken, most would have a 24V 50VA (or greater VA) transformer in their junkbox, or be able to scavenge one from the electonics in a dumpster, along with power cord, (or, desperately degrade themselves, and just "niggle" them, somewhere) so:

Case:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HAKKO-936-Soldering-Station-shell-case-with-screw-knob/32424323859.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.GHHdwJ&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_6,searchweb201644_2_505_506_503_504_10032_10020_502_10014_10001_10002_10017_10005_10006_10003_10021_10004_10022_10018_10019,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_-1&btsid=83b46743-2240-4612-93d4-f5e4ddd6813f

Controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAKKO936-Soldering-station-control-panel-PCB-A1321-Core-Male-or-Female-Interface-/131489348409?var=&hash=item1e9d603b39:m:mnJ_IE8iiaW_Vhgp7YajMvw

Handle:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-Soldering-Station-Iron-Handle-for-HAKKO-907-ESD-907-936-937-928-926/32473852261.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.80.50phkr&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_6,searchweb201644_2_505_506_503_504_10033_10032_10020_502_10014_10001_10002_10017_10005_10006_10003_10021_10004_10022_10018_10019,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_-1&btsid=14e45206-3ad6-46e4-a1e9-3f31bfea6b50

CASE                                               $12.50 USD free shipping
CONTROLLER                                    $7.68 USD free shipping
HANDLE                                             $3.44 USD free shipping
-------------------------------------------------------
SUB TOTAL                                      $23.62         
OPTIONAL "niggled" VODKA         ~$10.00         
-------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL                                              $33.62   

[Shock]

If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value...

Niggle: to spend too much time and effort on inconsequential details.

And, unless I am mistaken, most would have a 24V 50VA (or greater VA) transformer in their junkbox, or be able to scavenge one from the electonics in a dumpster, along with power cord, (or, desperately degrade themselves, and just "niggle" them, somewhere) so:

For people without a soldering station I doubt it, also it needs to fit that case. You suggested that price yourself I just added a little shipping, fuse and holder, switch, wiring, power cable etc (about $10 worth which is realistic).

All I'm saying is you're close to buying the actual FX-888D with an included $5 genuine tip and warranty in the US. For the money you suggest you might as well build a better clone than the 936.

I understand the argument about building from parts, but if you had the parts it would only cost around $13 for a Chinese fake FM-2027/FM-2028 handle with 2 included T12/T15 tips and you could build the HAKKO FX-951 controller from salvaged parts.

The other point I'll make (and you may have not been around for this) is that the genuine Hakko 936s were on run out for $50 in the states when they brought out the Hakko FX-888 model. There was a similar deal for the Hakko FX-888 when it was superseded by the FX-888D. Geuine Hakko 936s still sell for a similar amount used on Ebay.

[KludgeIt]

If you are niggling over per dollar for wattage and bang for buck value...

Niggle: to spend too much time and effort on inconsequential details.

And, unless I am mistaken, most would have a 24V 50VA (or greater VA) transformer in their junkbox, or be able to scavenge one from the electonics in a dumpster, along with power cord, (or, desperately degrade themselves, and just "niggle" them, somewhere) so:

For people without a soldering station I doubt it, also it needs to fit that case. You suggested that price yourself I just added a little shipping, fuse and holder, switch, wiring, power cable etc (about $10 worth which is realistic).

All I'm saying is you're close to buying the actual FX-888D with an included $5 genuine tip and warranty in the US. For the money you suggest you might as well build a better clone than the 936.

I understand the argument about building from parts, but if you had the parts it would only cost around $13 for a Chinese fake FM-2027/FM-2028 handle with 2 included T12/T15 tips and you could build the HAKKO FX-951 controller from salvaged parts.

The other point I'll make (and you may have not been around for this) is that the genuine Hakko 936s were on run out for $50 in the states when they brought out the Hakko FX-888 model. There was a similar deal for the Hakko FX-888 when it was superseded by the FX-888D. Geuine Hakko 936s still sell for a similar amount used on Ebay.

That would be GREAT!

Give us a post with links to the parts/prices/shipping/details, and building a FX-951 and a FX-888.

Sounds like you have the details to make us all forget about the 936! If cheap as you claim, I will stick one together! 

I will be waiting ...


Simple Definition of niggle

    : to worry or annoy (someone)

    : to argue or make criticisms about something that is not important

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/niggle

... and, if you can't find a power cord, switch, fuse, holder, etc., in the same dumpster where you find gear with the transformer, then look in the next one over.

And, if it makes you feel better paying something for the transformer, check with heater-furnace/air-conditioner repairmen, or use your imagination  ... the guy had a shelf full of 'em here, and sold me a used one for $5.00 ... I picked one to fit my case.

... and, if you find this post useful, and worth something to you, send me some Vodka as a donation, those little bottles which they hand out on airliners, or gift you at some hotels, would be greatly appreciated, if you have any kicking around!

[Shock]

I'm sure you will figure it out eventually.

[wraper]

If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.

I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.

[KludgeIt]

If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.

I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.

Funny, I have never "heard" the parts I have soldered, or the circuit boards, complain. Perhaps you are "hearing things" others don't?

Indeed, what is the difference between the 50VA (watts) supplied to the heater by "cheap chinese junk", and the 50VA supplied to the heater by "THE GREAT HAKKO GOD?"

... I have seen NONE! And, you haven't noticed the "Hakko" name on the clones, which I am referring to?

[wraper]

Now, this appears to be the difference between 80 proof Vodka, and 100 proof Vodka -- and I am ALWAYS A SUCKER FOR THE 100 PROOF VODKA!

Comments, anyone?

sell/give/throw away 936 stuff and move on to Hakko T12/T15 cartridges, difference will be night and day.

Throw away your pickup truck, and buy a Peterbilt Diesel Rig. Throw away your ford, and buy a Maserati. Move out of you $100,000 home, and into a $10,000,000 mansion. Throw out you Popov Vodka, and buy Smirnoff ... stop just soldering, AND BE TRENDY!

Point being, a man with a full woodworking shop can make a birdhouse. And, a true craftsman, with some wood, and a pocket knife can make a birdhouse ... and a true DIY'er, with some potatoes and a homemade still can make his own Vodka, and instead of 100 proof Vodka, you can have near 200 proof Vodka (200 proof = 100% ETHYL ALCOHOL.)

you lost me, all I got from this is you need a rehab

+1, too much vodka, it seems.
http://www.rehabs.com/top-rated-treatment-centers/

[wraper]

If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.

I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.

Funny, I have never "heard" the parts I have soldered, or the circuit boards, complain. Perhaps you are "hearing things" others don't?

Indeed, what is the difference between the 50VA (watts) supplied to the heater by "cheap chinese junk", and the 50VA supplied to the heater by "THE GREAT HAKKO GOD?"

... I have seen NONE!

When they'll start to complain, it will be too late for you, it seems. 

[KludgeIt]

If 36W does it for you, great idea, if you want 50W Hakko does it for you ... it is all about being well informed, and deciding, yourself.

But then, about the same with Vodka, and the choice is simply 80 proof, or 100 proof ... and pay a bit more for the value you wish to perceive.

I just don't understand, all of the time you mention Hakko... Hakko. Nothing of that is Hakko, just Chinese crap.

Funny, I have never "heard" the parts I have soldered, or the circuit boards, complain. Perhaps you are "hearing things" others don't?

Indeed, what is the difference between the 50VA (watts) supplied to the heater by "cheap chinese junk", and the 50VA supplied to the heater by "THE GREAT HAKKO GOD?"

... I have seen NONE!

When they'll start to complain, it will be too late for you, it seems. 

Extraordinary claims, require EXTRAORDINARY PROOF!

Finding those who can tell the difference between a board soldered with "cheap chinese junk" (Hakko 936 clone), and a board soldered with a unit "MADE BY THE GREAT HAKKO GOD!", might be more difficult then you are imagining! 

[wraper]

Finding those who can tell the difference between a board soldered with "cheap chinese junk" (Hakko 936 clone), and a board soldered with a unit "MADE BY THE GREAT HAKKO GOD!", might be more difficult then you are imagining! 

I can make high quality job with crap soldering iron. I can do a bit better with good soldering station but it's much easier to do. Also when you need to solder with a lead free solder some multilayer boards with high thermal mass, you'll notice that it can become very difficult unless you have a very good solder station.
BTW, I don't think that HAKKO is GOD (someone really needs rehab and drinking less vodka), especially 888(D), and older 936 model, I actually think it's not better than average at best.

[KludgeIt]

Finding those who can tell the difference between a board soldered with "cheap chinese junk" (Hakko 936 clone), and a board soldered with a unit "MADE BY THE GREAT HAKKO GOD!", might be more difficult then you are imagining! 

I can make high quality job with crap soldering iron. I can do a bit better with good soldering station but it's much easier to do. Also when you need to solder with a lead free solder some multilayer boards with high thermal mass, you'll notice that it can become very difficult unless you have a very good solder station.
BTW, I don't think that HAKKO is GOD (someone really needs rehab and drinking less vodka), especially 888(D), and older 936 model, I actually think it's not better than average at best.

Then, all you are noticing is that living in million dollar house is more comfortable than living in a hundred-thousand dollar house? That shooting a varmint with an elephant gun, as opposed to a 22 Cal. is more effective?

My posts have centered on the Hakko 936. This threads title focuses on the heating element of the Hakko 936. Yet, everyone wants to speak on every other unit. Why not just post about those units in more appropriate threads?

If I wanted to post on any other type of station, type of handles, types of heaters, I would go to the appropriate threads and make my posts there. Why are you here discussing other units, THAN THE 936? Am I supposed to believe this is anything but "niggling?"

Apparently you can tell that my posts are accurate, focus on truth and facts, and what is real, and can be demonstrated ... so why go to a 936 thread to discuss 888Ds or other off topic soldering stations ... other than just one simple remark to point them out, in a discussion FOCUSED ON 936s.

And now, the terminally insane seem to make claims that the power supplied to these 936 heaters, somehow, takes on "magical properties", if it is 50W supplied by a unit which makes Hakko rich, as opposed to 50W supplied by a unit which DOES NOT make Hakko rich. Sorry, I call BS on that one, I will leave it to others, to see if they agree, or disagree.

You wish us to be so stupid we don't notice what is really going on, or the real nigglers?

... and yes, in the time honored tradition of "attack the messenger, NOT THE MESSAGE", you attack me, or a Vodka bottle ... and I should think everyone watches that, too -- EXCEPT you!

And, in the end, it all breaks down to just this, in six months, or so, when I want/need to replace my 936 heating element with a new one, it will cost me ~$1.00 USD. ... or that keeping my old case, transformer, etc., I can have, basically, a BRAND NEW 936 by just replacing a >$8.00 USD controller.

EDIT:
Now, in giving this some hard, serious, thought, and attempting to see exactly what you are saying, I am left with the opinion that you are going to all this effort to point out to me that shaving with a 0.25 cent disposable, plastic, razor IS NOT THE SAME, as shaving with a $100,000 solid gold razor, with a diamond studded handle!

... and you are quite correct, and leave me to now ponder on that difference -- and just how much of that difference is imagined? ... and especially if I ever found out that both razors used the same blade! ... but, 50 Watts is 50 Watts, at least in all of this known universe!

[wraper]

... and you are quite correct, and leave me to now ponder on that difference -- and just how much of that difference is imagined? ... and especially if I ever found out that both razors used the same blade! ... but, 50 Watts is 50 Watts, at least in all of this known universe!

Did you measure if those 50w are actually there, or do you trust what counterfeit heating element says? Also, power rating does not make a good soldering iron by itself. I have a 60w firestick made in 1968 lying somewhere, but does the power rating make it a good soldering iron? If there is no good temperature transfer between the heater and the tip, and good a temperature control which decently senses an actual tip temperature, power rating is useless.

[KludgeIt]

... and you are quite correct, and leave me to now ponder on that difference -- and just how much of that difference is imagined? ... and especially if I ever found out that both razors used the same blade! ... but, 50 Watts is 50 Watts, at least in all of this known universe!

Did you measure if those 50w are actually there, or do you trust what counterfeit heating element says? Also, power rating does not make a good soldering iron by itself. I have a 60w firestick made in 1968 lying somewhere, but does the power rating make it a good soldering iron? If there is no good temperature transfer between the heater and the tip, and good a temperature control which decently senses an actual tip temperature, power rating is useless.

As I pointed out, in an earlier post, the Yihua with its' 132A ceramic elements IS ONLY 35 Watts, and I quite happily use if for most all the LED lighting, Arduino projects, power supplies, battery chargers, Field Strength Meters, stereos,  boost/buck circuitry, flashlights, motion detectors, solar panels, amateur radio projects, etc.

I have noticed that the Hakko clone is more watts, as expected.

Now, if I get into major heavy work, ground lugs on chassis, DIN plugs, heavy copper/high-amp wire, etc., I have an old Weller soldering gun with a pistol grip, and that baby can solder sheet metal! ... or a butane fired, pocket iron, when in the field and away from power.

... but, actual use and results are what determine my tools, not measurements and debates on the meaning of life, or "perceived benefits" ... AND, I am using a 26V @ 3.2A transformer on my Hakko, so I would expect that it is putting out a bit more than 50W, but a guess on my part.

And, this early in the morning 10:40 AM, I am just looking at the empty Vodka bottle, from last night! 

[wraper]

... but, actual use and results are what determine my tools, not measurements and debates on the meaning of life, or "perceived benefits" ...

Therefore you even don't know if what you are claiming is true.

AND, I am using a 26V @ 3.2A transformer on my Hakko, so I would expect that it is putting out a bit more than 50W, but a guess on my part.
(

Why you still keep calling it "Hakko"? There is no a single Hakko part in it. And BTW, it's not ESD safe because the plastic used is usual crap, not proper static dissipative material.

[KludgeIt]

... but, actual use and results are what determine my tools, not measurements and debates on the meaning of life, or "perceived benefits" ...

Therefore you even don't know if what you are claiming is true.

AND, I am using a 26V @ 3.2A transformer on my Hakko, so I would expect that it is putting out a bit more than 50W, but a guess on my part.
(

Why you still keep calling it "Hakko"? There is no a single Hakko part in it. And BTW, it's not ESD safe because the plastic used is usual crap, not proper static dissipative material.

If it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, flies like a duck, and has feathers ... I leave it to those, such as yourself, to speculate it is really a goat ...

I'll simply call it by the name on it ... A HAKKO! 

... and, if you are that concerned about ESD, wipe it down with one of your wifes antistatic cloths she uses in the dryer, or to make it permanent, spray the case with a ESD paint ...  I have never had a problem with static, myself.

And, as far as "my claims", in reference to yours -- you kinda sound like the guy who was reading, and thought the light was too dim for him to read by, so he measured the voltage, amps, and light output of lamp, and found everything was within "ballpark" operating specs for the equipment. So then, he just went and got a brighter bulb to read by ... and if I need anything better than the Hakko to secure suitable soldering of components I am working with, I will do the same ... or just grab a higher wattage iron, if that is the problem.