Hakko Fr-300 desoldering tool

[Sjokolade]

Anyone seen the Fr-300 or even tested it ?

Heard rumors that the Fr-300 is to replace the 808 that is out of production.

Pictures ?

[Sjokolade]

Not much info to find on the FR-300


Main switch and temperature adjustment built in to the handle.
Single touch nozzle replacement.
Excellent heat recovery for lead free application with closed-loop heat control

Power consumpton       95W (Heater 80W)
Temperature range      350-500 C
Nozzle to ground resistance   <2 ohm
Nozzle to ground potential   <2mmV
Vacuum pump         Diaphragm pump
Vacuum pressure         610mmHg
Dimension         210(W)x192(H)x47(D)mm

[neslekkim]

Maybe it's supposed to be secret until end of month?
Found some other things also:
http://n1a.goexposoftware.com/events/ipc2014/goExpo/exhibitor/viewExhibitorProfile.php?__id=27

Looking at what JBC comes with now, Hakko really looks oldfashioned:
http://n1a.goexposoftware.com/events/ipc2014/goExpo/exhibitor/listExhibitorProducts.php?category=Soldering+Irons%2FTips%2F%26+Stations&search_str=&search=Search&new=&ps=&vo=

[Sjokolade]

Yes I guess Hakko is waiting to release information about the Fr-300, saw those links you posted earlier but not early enough to download the Hakko Fr-300 press release that was removed from n1a.goexposoftware.

I like Hakko's design better then JBC actually

[neslekkim]

Hakko is typically very difficult and expensive to get here in Norway.. Emagenturer is going to skyrocket this price also I guess.

[Frost]

Hakko is typically very difficult and expensive to get here in Norway.

Not only in Norway, the same here in Germany

[neslekkim]

Have you seen the prices in UK?, those are much better, but they don't sell outside UK, I tried to ask if it was possible to buy one at the makerfaire, but they are far outside anywhere, and you had to order in advance, witch rules out ordering to hotels etc.

http://www.dancap.co.uk/

[echen1024]

Times like this I love living in the USA.

[tsmith35]

Hakko prices are low in the US, but JBC prices are high. Good and bad.

As an aside, do the JBC capacitive touch screens work with gloves? I know a lot of techs wear gloves while handling components, so just curious.

[neslekkim]

Not much info still but:
http://www.hakko.cz/eshop/product/odpajeci-pistole-hakko-fr-300/

[Sjokolade]

Will pre-order one of these, Norwegian price is 2950,- NOK + mva and will be available in april/may.

[gmit77]

hello, here are some more info about the coming FR-300:
- it will come with 1mm nozle as standard (N50-04)
- 808 nozzles will fit FR-300
- new nozzle models
  • N50-01 : S-NOZZLE 0.8mm ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
  • N50-02 : S-NOZZLE 1.0mm ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
  • N50-03 : NOZZLE 0.8mm ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
  • N50-04 : NOZZLE 1.0mm ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
  • N50-05 : NOZZLE 1.3mm ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
  • N50-06 : NOZZLE 1.6mm  ... Euro 11,30 + VAT
- FR-300 ... Euro 235 + VAT

we will confirm the prices once the items will be in our stock.

for Eurpoean customers: you can book your unit starting this evening at our web shop

more questions? ask 

ciao

[neslekkim]

Link to the shop?
Will you also sell to Norway?

[neslekkim]

Will pre-order one of these, Norwegian price is 2950,- NOK + mva and will be available in april/may.

Who will sell at that price?, the older 808 is crazy priced at the distributor in Norway.. (Emag.. )

[gmit77]

hello I will post the link of the FR-300 in the afternoon.
Batter Fly web shop link is www.batterfly.com/shop
here is the link to check our shipment cost: http://www.batterfly.com/shop/consegna

I will update the post with the FR-300 link soon

thanks

[neslekkim]

Why is shipping to sweden €10 cheaper than Norway?, our contries lies next to each other

And what is IVA?, tax?, Norway is outside EU, so I expect TAX to be excluded, since we need to pay tax in import here.

[gmit77]

GOOD QUESTION!!! mistery of transporter price list ...
VAT will be not charged automatically for those countries which are outside of EU and of course for every oredrs coming from a company

[gmit77]

as promised, here is the link http://www.batterfly.com/shop/hakko-fr-300

[neslekkim]

This is of course the european version with 220volts?, and EU plug?
Any idea of when it will be available?

Will be interresting to see reviews and comparisions of this one to the 808.

[gmit77]

yes EU version 
I think we will be able to ship the first units end of April.
Order booking is open from today in our web shop

[Sjokolade]

Will pre-order one of these, Norwegian price is 2950,- NOK + mva and will be available in april/may.

Who will sell at that price?, the older 808 is crazy priced at the distributor in Norway.. (Emag.. )

EM Agenturer AS will sell the Fr 300 for that price

Prisen på FR-300 blir 2950,- og spissene vil koste 135,-

The old 808 is cheap now.. ehh cheaper 1/2 price.

Denne kan du få for 2500,- og demo modellen kan du få for 2000,-

[mariush]

At 235 euro, it's just crazy... I add 24% VAT and I'm looking at 291 euro.. with 30 euro shipping I'm looking at 320 euro. 

I can buy the US FX-808 from eBay for 180$, plus 40$ shipping, or about 220$ (159 euro): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-808-KIT-P-808-5-Desoldering-Gun-Tool-120-VAC-Handheld-Self-Contained-Kit-/380841853916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58abf183dc

If I have some bad luck , I may even have to pay VAT that would be another 20-30 euro.. so overall less than 180 euro.  A 220-240v -> 110v transformer doesn't cost 150 euro.

[neslekkim]

A 220-240v -> 110v transformer doesn't cost 150 euro.

Someone on the forums here have done that, but needed somewhat beefier transformer than what the 808 should require..

[mariush]

Exactly. A 100VA transformer is 19 pounds, about 25-26 uk pounds with shipping and VAT ... around 25 euro: http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/ctfcs100-50u/transformer-100va-2-x-50v/dp/1780899

A 200VA transformer is about 40 euro VAT included : http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/ctfcs200-50u/transformer-200va-2-x-50v/dp/1780907

No problem with difference in frequency, the tool will handle it.

[jpb]

I contacted dancap about the Fr300 and was told that it won't be available in the UK until June.

There is nothing on the Hakko site yet either (at least not under products).

So are they selling some before officially releasing them?

[Sjokolade]

I have one of these on pre-order, can't wait to see if it performs when it arrives.

Still not any info about it on Hakkos website, I guess it's still a secret.

[mcinque]

I guess it's still a secret.

Sure, and probably this thread doesn't exist really.

[Sjokolade]

Sure, and you have probably been eating yellow snow for breakfast.

[mcinque]

The fact that we're talking about the fr300 should be enough to make you understand that's NOT a secret.

You're a little touchy, don't you?

[Sjokolade]

The fact that I started this thread should explain it quite well so I know this thread is not a secret 

Are you feeling well ?

[rdl]

I was wondering about that. I have that item on my watch list, the seller has over 55,000 feedbacks at 100% positive, and states that they are a Hakko Authorized Distributor. I would think that eBay would have required removal of that claim a long time ago if it wasn't true, but I don't see them listed as an authorized distributor at the Hakko web site.

I can buy the US FX-808 from eBay for 180$, plus 40$ shipping, or about 220$ (159 euro): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-808-KIT-P-808-5-Desoldering-Gun-Tool-120-VAC-Handheld-Self-Contained-Kit-/380841853916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58abf183dc

The problem is they are almost always fake.

[mcinque]

The fact that I started this thread should explain it quite well so I know this thread is not a secret 

Well... you stated that you guess the fr300 is still a secret, not me. 

I guess it's still a secret.

Since some shops like this has this item in preorder (and probably others all around the world), since we are talking about it on a public forum, and since a simple google search with "hakko fr 300" shows a couple of results and images... exactly what the hell of secret are you talking about?

Or maybe you've never pronounced the word "secret"?

Are you feeling well ?

I'm fine thanks. 

[rdl]

I didn't mean the item, I was referring to the seller claiming to be an authorized Hakko distributor. If they are, then the item isn't fake. If they're not, then I'm surprised Hakko and eBay have allowed them to continue to state that they are.

[tsmith35]

I didn't mean the item, I was referring to the seller claiming to be an authorized Hakko distributor. If they are, then the item isn't fake. If they're not, then I'm surprised Hakko and eBay have allowed them to continue to state that they are.

So... I emailed Hakko and asked. I'll let you know what I find.

[gyyv]

Hello. I took a call from someone on this thread. I was stoked to the point of joining this forum, I have loved EEV Blog for some time now. NIOSales is the Ebay name we chose in 2003. The company associated with NIOSales on ebay is Ness Electronics, Inc. (N ess I ncorporated O nline Sales) Oh things were so different back then lol.
We are are an Authorized Hakko Distributor. We have been distributing them for longer that I have been with the company. I started with them in 1995 (in shipping.) We were formed in 1964, and are celebrating our 50th anniversary this year. If anyone has any questions please feel free to call me or any of our staff. Our phone number is 1-800-331-7617. We are in Minnesota, and our hours are 8am to 5pm Central time. We strive to bring good customer service, and I think that is represented in our feedbacks on Ebay.
Thank you for the consideration.
Don

[tequipment]

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko/FR-300/

I will have all the tips up tommorrow.  I will put a 360 up soon as soon as we do the photography.

We sell hundreds of 808s.  This will be an excellent seller.  We have hakko certified people as well.

[tequipment]

I will have this page updated a bit more tomorrow:
http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/

 But this will give you a good overview.  Excuse the grammar as I didnt proof the page yet.

Thanks!
Evan
TEquipment.NET

[linux-works]

typo found:

sed s/ergonimic/ergonomic/g

[tequipment]

Thanks.  I fixed a bunch just now.  My guys will do the rest tomorrow.
The side by side should be up any min.  I just put the attributes in.

Thanks again
Evan

[mariush]

Oh man, who wrote that description, a 8 year old?

comparison - no need for uppercase 
vs the new hakko fr-300 desoldering -  desoldering what?
its hard ->it's hard

what customers are saying about the 808 in the reviews section of the 808 page - we already know you talk about the 808, no need to say again the 808 page

New intergrated -> new integrated (no need for uppercase)

The new pump has even more suction than the pump on the older Hakko 808/Kit.  - bad expression .. maybe say new pump with increased suction capability, compared to the older model
This allows the unit to be more balanced in your hand and reduce vibration -  bad expression.. who reduces vibration, the unit or the chamber. maybe say "reduced vibration and a better balanced tool due to the use of a single, improved chamber"
New quick change Nozzle system that allow you to change the tips with a simple click. - already mentioned something about nozzles, maybe combine both in a single row

Other minor changes the the grip was overhaulded to be more ergonimic. - makes no sense , the the grip , overhaulded
The pipe filter has a spot where you can now grip it to remove it.  ... lousy expression

For the Full Details of the differences please see below: (click the ? for explanations of specification terms)  .. if you have to say it you're doing the design of the page wrong .. and there's only one ? below and no mention of the "i" icon.

-

anyway, can you give an estimated price?  It's 300 euro here (with vat included)... maybe you guys can do a better price.

[tequipment]

I wrote that almost in the dark past 10pm at night with a laptop where the keys don't light up.  I was in my camo recliner while my wife was watching TV.  I think that could paint a picture for you.

I'm an engineer and grammar and spelling is not something I specialize in.  Now I am at a desk.  I have someone updating the page right now as I type this.  I sent him your link. Thanks!  Feedback is always good.

As for the pricing I don't have it yet.  My guess is it would be around 225 in the USA.  The older Hakko was ~180 retail price in the states.  That is just a guess though so don't hold me to it.

Cheers
Evan

[linux-works]

I may be selling my hakko 808.  I recently bought a pace desoldering system on the bay and I don't think I'll need both.

(during my ebaying, I kind of overbought and so I'll probably also have a hakko hot tweezer set for sale, too.  its too easy to get carried away when doing a search on ebay, sigh).

[tsmith35]

I'm an engineer and grammar and spelling is not something I specialize in.

lol Engineers tend to stay on the dark side of grammar and spelling... as a co-worker once asked, "but you understood what I was saying, right?"

[tequipment]

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/

[mariush]

You're getting there Some observations:

Its hard to believe  <-- It's

 Just take a look at what customers are saying about the 808 in the reviews section of its page found here.  <-- they just got on this page, why do you push them to move on to another page?

 Several times on the page there's Hakko 808 vs FR-300  but when you start describing the differences you mention fr-300 vs the 808-kit .  It's a bit confusing; FR-300 is the "star" of the page, so perhaps it should be fr-300 vs 808 throughout the page, to have everything more consistent. 
There's also several product names on the page, let me point them out:

Hakko 808 vs FR-300 Desoldering Tool
Summary comparison of the Hakko 808/KIT vs the new Hakko FR-300 Desoldering Tool
What is the difference between the FR-300 Desolder Station vs the 808-Kit Desoldering Tool?
*  The FR300 has a new pump which has even more suction than the pump on the older 808/KIT.

Say I find this page through google and it's not obvious to me that I can click on Hakko 808 links or FR-300 link in first paragraph and I want to enter something in the search box above in the menu, what am I supposed to enter?  I think you should be more consistent

Then...
What is the difference between the FR-300 Desolder Station vs the 808-Kit Desoldering Tool?:  < ---  ? :  - grammar: http://grammar.ccc.commnet.edu/grammar/marks/colon.htm
You keep using "has a longer cord", "has a new pump", "grip was overhauled", just in one place you say "there is a new case" .. it pops out and it sounds a bit weird to me (but then again English is not my native language). Could probably just say "New case", without the "there is"

You also use two spaces after each sentence but if I remember correctly in some countries this is taught, but it's wrong. Most people stopped doing it when typewriters died. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sentence_spacing or http://desktoppub.about.com/cs/typespacing/a/onetwospaces.htm



 

[tequipment]

Thanks!  I love the feedback.  I am 34.  I learned to type with 2 spaces.  It was drilled into my head to do it that way.  In fact, in 8th grade we would get points off for not doing it. 

I will send all your feedback and will have them make a new edit tomorrow.  I do appreciate it.

Evan

[linux-works]

I'm 50's and learned that there are 2 spaces after a period.  I still do it now.  look, just did it again! 

I dropped most uppercase, though.  lots of reasons, and some people still can't accept this new aspect.  u/c is not strictly needed; especially when you (yes, you guessed) use 2 spaces after a period!

[echen1024]

Eh. I just use one space. It's what I'm used to.

[eKretz]

Two spaces vs. one space at the end of a sentence is inconsequential. There is no right or wrong. People debate this all day long to no end. Do whichever you want and move on. I also was taught to use a double space at the end of a sentence but to me it makes no difference.

[neslekkim]

Can we please delete the off-topic grammar discussions?

[neslekkim]

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko/FR-300/

I will have all the tips up tommorrow.  I will put a 360 up soon as soon as we do the photography.

We sell hundreds of 808s.  This will be an excellent seller.  We have hakko certified people as well.

Do you have access to 220v versions of Hakko tools?, It seems like 220-240 are used somewhere in US as well?

[neslekkim]

Yes, For lot of things actually... but not any transformer I guess, I read someone used an transformer with the 808 and it could not drive it.

[tsmith35]

Okay, just looking at the specs of the FR-300 vs the 808, I see a few interesting things:

Vacuum on the 300 is very slightly stronger than on the 808: 610 mmHg vs 600 mmHg
Vacuum flow of the 300 is 10% higher than that of the 808: 11 l/min vs 10 l/min
Weight (without cord) of the 300 is about 24% higher than the weight of the 808: 520g vs 420g
Wattage of the 300 is double that of the 808: 140W vs 70W
Temperature range of the 300 is somewhat greater than on the 808: 350C-500C vs 380C-490C
Cord length of the 300 is about 1 foot longer than that on the 808: 5.9 ft vs 4.9 ft

It appears that the 300 should heat up faster than the 808 does, weighs about 3.5 oz more, has a slightly longer cord and (from what I've read) has a better case. And it's blue and yellow.

[Pasky]

So when are these going to be available?

[jpb]

So when are these going to be available?

I'm a bit confused on this - from some of the posts on this thread I get the impression that it already is available but when I e-mailed DanCap who are the main Hakko dealers in the UK I was told June, though that wasn't a fixed date.

[iRad]

I'm a bit confused on this - from some of the posts on this thread I get the impression that it already is available...

I don't think anyone is saying that they have one yet. Availability in the US is rumored to be June, but none of the Hakko Distributors I have talked to say that they know for sure. Please post here if anyone gets their hands on one. And please, your first impressions also.

[SLJ]

It's got an on/off switch which was my biggest complaint with the 808.

Hakko FR-300

[Pasky]

So TEQuipment has them for order now...Are they in stock?

[jpb]

So TEQuipment has them for order now...Are they in stock?

I too am curious on this, I surmised that if it is available in June they might be quoting 4 week delivery. I still couldn't see anything on the Hakko web site, if it is coming out in June it is odd that they aren't showing it but perhaps they don't want to cannibalise sales of the 808 while old stock is cleared.

[Pasky]

When I e-mailed TEQuipment on Monday, they contacted Hakko and Hakko said mid-May.  So I'm guessing these are in stock now.

[iRad]

So I'm guessing these are in stock now.

I just checked with TEquipment.net, and they are NOT in stock yet. They are hoping to receive them in about a week or so.

[Pasky]

Ya, last I heard, they're shipping on the 6th of May.

[Pasky]

Received mine yesterday from Hakko in CA.  Ordered from TEQuipment, they shipped it Monday, got it Thursday.  Great service .


Thoughts without having used it yet:

• It's a lot better to hold than the 808, a bit smaller.
• The on/off switch is kind of annoying, it's recessed into the backside of the handle and to click it on and off it's rather deep, if the hole was a little wider it wouldn't be so annoying, people with big fingers aren't going to like this.
• It has an analog dial at the bottom of the handle for adjusting the temperature, 4 settings from 350 C* to 500 C*. 
• The filter release was redesigned and I like it.  With the 808 you have to pull the plunger back and hold it in place to replace it.  The new design, the tube comes out and the plunger locks in place so you can easily put it back in, then hit the lock release and it locks the filter back in place.
• The tips are much easier to replace.  You simply twist it about a quarter of an inch and the nozzle unlocks allowing you to slide it off.
• The heat protector is a joke, I prefer the cloth one that came with the 808 to this.  Now it's just a piece of stamped steel rolled into a cylinder (it's not even sealed!!!), very cheaply done.
• The stand for it also seems useless, another piece of stamped metal.

[Sjokolade]

Still waiting for mine to arrive.

What parts came with as extras ? I see a few filters,anything else ? tips ?
Let us know if it is performing better then the 808.

[Pasky]

It comes with everything you see there, on the top side of the case is the tip cleaner and heater core cleaner, same as the 808.  It actually came with less filters than the 808 and no extra reservoir.  No other tips were included, what you see there is what you get (including the improved case), minus the 1 sheet of folded instructions paper, and 2 cleaning tools.

[iRad]

I also got my new FR-300 yesterday.
See a first impression video here:
http://youtu.be/lUrXNozK1Xg

Overall, I'm very happy with the changes made to the new Hakko FR-300 compared to the older Hakko 808 desoldering gun. Standout improvements are the sleeker and smaller design and better ergonomic and relaxed fit in the hand. The handle and trigger mechanism is now designed to make prolonged use of the gun much more comfortable. The on-off switch with LED indicator and longer cord is another BIG improvement over the 808. I like the thumb wheel temperature selector with the visual reference to temperature settings, it’s way easier to adjust than the 808. Tip retainer mechanism on the FR-300 is much improved as is the solder tube and holder. While the slight increase in vacuum suction is welcome, the decrease in size of the gun made mostly possible by going to a single diaphragm pump is a big design plus. An increase in wattage should positively round off the numerous improvements to an already good product, making the FR-300 a must have on the electronics workbench.

Some small CONS: There is no protective iron cover included in the FR-300 kit as was included in the 808 kit. The protective tube that is used to protect the case from a hot iron is a poor afterthought and a next to useless. Fewer filter parts are included with the newer kit, compared with the older kit.

Overall: A BIG Thumbs Up for the new Hakko FR-300. While I have not had a chance to put it to serious use it yet, my first impressions are that I like it very much!

[Sjokolade]

Nice video iRad, loved the tip removal tool.

Is the standard tip 1 mm  (N50-04) ?

Is the reservoir made of glass ?

[Pasky]

No, it's plastic.

[iRad]

Is the standard tip 1 mm  (N50-04) ?
Is the reservoir made of glass ?

As already mentioned by Pasky, the Filter Pipe is made of plastic, but that is a good thing in this case. The plastic holds up very well to heavy use and will not break as easily if dropped.

You are correct about the nozzle tip that ships with the gun, the N50-4 1mm. I am trying to place an order for the rest of the tip sizes, but they are evidently not stocked as of yet...

[iRad]

After having a chance to use the new FR-300 for a couple of hours today, I can say that I'm still very impressed with it compared to the 808. It certainly builds and maintains heat better and is more comfortable to hold for longer periods than the 808. I wished it shipped with additional tips though.

Another small thing I missed in the video is that the 808 kit came with an additional Filter Pipe, this is also lacking in the FR-300 kit. While I never needed to replace mine, it was nice knowing I had the backup if needed.

I do have one more small gripe I've discovered after use. Although Hakko put an LED on the front of the handle that lights when the heater element is on, it is difficult to see and of course the light is intermittent, lighting only when the gun is actually heating the element. It would have been nice if an additional LED be installed near the on/off switch, indicating an ON condition and in a place viewable while in a solder station holder. The LED installed in the front of the handle is not viewable in the guns normal safe storage position, which should be located in a proper holder somewhere on the workbench.

Well, now the dilemma of to hack or not to hack a new ON/OFF LED in the rear handle... What do you think??? Should I risk messing up my warranty, or should I wait a reasonable period to make sure it doesn't fail on me?

[eKretz]

Go for it. Make it your own!

[Pasky]

What are you using to hold yours (stand, etc...) while it's on iRad?  I can't figure out how the hell you would use this piece of poo 'simple' stand.

[iRad]

What are you using to hold yours (stand, etc...)

I use Hakko 633-01 Iron Holder with 599B Tip Cleaner for my two irons and the desoldering gun.

[Pasky]

I think I might invest in one then, because I find this problematic.

Would you mind snapping a picture to show a fit (with the FR-300 resting in it)?

[iRad]

Would you mind snapping a picture to show a fit (with the FR-300 resting in it)?

Here is a picture of it...

[Pasky]

I'm sold, thanks.

[tsmith35]

What are you using to hold yours (stand, etc...)

I use Hakko 633-01 Iron Holder with 599B Tip Cleaner for my two irons and the desoldering gun.

Ditto for me. I have a 633 stand with 599 tip cleaner that I use for my 808.

[bluey]

So having improved the 808, Hakko also jacked up the price of the FR-300 (rrp US310)

I had seen the 808 selling new as low as US165, but I had been looking at a 240V model which was >AUD500.

Does anybody have experience with the competition in comparison? They all seem to get good reviews from what I have read so far.
Goot TP100AS (antistatic)
Denon SC7000Z

[PlainName]

I have a Den-on SC7000 and think it's fab. The main reason I got it, over something like the Hakko, is that you can reverse the airflow, so have a hot air gun instead with the flick of a switch. It's actually a little more complicated than that: you can get a tip specifically for blowing instead of sucking, and an unrestricted filter doobrey - the first is longer than normal so heats the air for longer, and the second lets more air pass. The result isn't anything like a dedicated hot air gun, but I use it to do a quick bit of heatshrink without bothering to change tip or filter.

It's quite a heavy thing but well balanced, and although you can feel the tingle when the pump is running it never affects your aim. I use it for all desoldering jobs now, and periodically I'm tempted to get another off Ebay just in case I break this one. That's a reflection on how well integrated in my workflow it is rather than a statement of its fragility, by the way

The prices of these on Ebay seems a bit high, although sometimes you do get a bargain. A better source is Howard Electronics:

http://www.howardelectronics.com/den-on/sc7000.html

I don't think you'll find a better price for new ones than that. Nice company to deal with.

[iRad]

So having improved the 808, Hakko also jacked up the price of the FR-300 (rrp US310)

I paid $247 from TEqupment.net, using the EEVblog discount code of course...

[neslekkim]

I have a Den-on SC7000 and think it's fab. The main reason I got it, over something like the Hakko, is that you can reverse the airflow, so have a hot air gun instead with the flick of a switch. It's actually a little more complicated than that: you can get a tip specifically for blowing instead of sucking, and an unrestricted filter doobrey - the first is longer than normal so heats the air for longer, and the second lets more air pass. The result isn't anything like a dedicated hot air gun, but I use it to do a quick bit of heatshrink without bothering to change tip or filter.

Have you compared it to the hakko?
Does it have switchable power?, seems like they are 120 and 240volts?

[PlainName]

Have you compared it to the hakko?

No, but if someone would care to donate one for the cause I would be happy to do the comparison 

Does it have switchable power?

Er... not sure what you mean there. If you mean 110/240 like a laptop PSU, then no. You buy a 120V or 220V version.

If you mean does it have a switch for power, then yes: there is a switch at the bottom of the handle, and a temperature control at the rear (with LED indicator of power use so you know when it is up to temperature).

[bluey]

The product information for all these shows they are available in different voltage versions but are not quite explicit that there are different model numbers for the different voltage versions. This is very clear when looking at detailed photographs of the manufacturer's plate. None are multi-voltage switchable units.

Without there being any three-way comparisons of Hakko vs Goot vs Denon guns, the best I can figure so far is:

TIPS: Hakko 6 sizes (0.8-1.6); Denon 7 sizes (0.8-1.5); Goot 7 sizes (0.8-2.5)

HEATING: Hakko ?120W element 350-500degC (4 settings, knob); Denon 100W element 350-500degC (variable pot, knob?); Goot ?60-70W element 250-450degC (11 settings, screwdriver)

FILTER: Hakko ceramic paper (thick disk); Denon felt ; Goot steel wool, felt x2

SOLDER CLOGGING, CLEANING: Hakko has internal threads on the tips which are short. This would seem a maintenance disadvantage if solder gets in there. Both Goot and Denon have long tip extensions inside the gun with an external thread and the solder looks like it wills stay entirely within the tip. Goot says oxidation in the tip will eventually cause clogging.
Denon suggests the solder piles up on itself leaving a long time until the filter clogs with solder.

VACUUM: All have very similar vacuum power. (Denon suggests the guns are much better than desolder stations.)

ESD; Hakko no; Denon yes; Goot yes for TP100AS model with black body, no for TP100 grey body model

WEIGHT, BALANCE: HAKKO 520G; Denon 420g; Goot; 470g. Denon and Goot have the motor in the handle. Hakko looks to have a thinner handle wiht motor in the body.

EXTRAS: Denon has hot blow - not sure how useful this is in practice apart from cleaning the gun. Hakko and Goot come with case, small stand, spare filters.


So which will end up being the most productive in use???

[PlainName]

One thing noting about the Den-on is that the cartridge is plastic and disposable. When the filter is clogged, you bin the entire cartridge and slap in a new one. Being a cheapskate, I might try replacing the felt instead and see what happens...

The felt end of the cartridge is almost solid, with air holes around the periphery. The idea is that the solder coming up the nozzle impacts on the plastic face and either build up there into a pyramid or rattles around the cartridge. Easily emptied, and all the felt has to deal with is fumes and airborne particles.

Its also has a nozzle cleaner secreted in the handle. A minor thing, but shows some thought went into it.

On the downside, because the tips are so long internally they cost more than the old Hakko ones. And they're not quick change like the new Hakko.

[iRad]

Without there being any three-way comparisons of Hakko vs Goot vs Denon guns, the best I can figure so far...
So which will end up being the most productive in use???

Don't over think it. If you need 240V, then Denon. If 120V, then Hakko. Both are nice guns. Any choice might be a small compromise, but I'm sure you will be satisfied with the performance and operation of either.

[plexus]

I just got an FR-300 from Tequipment. It's very nice. I haven't used the 808, in fact I have been procrastinating on getting an 808 for about 3 years. Then the FR-300 came out and I decided it was sign from Deep Thought. It works very well and is comfortable to use. I want to get a couple more tips though and because I am in Canada and Tequipment uses a "logistics" company (oxymoron), $35 worth of tips is going to cost me $35 in shipping. As an aside, priority shipping from US to Canada is a joke - first class is faster, DOES have tracking and is way cheaper. I digress...

Does anyone know of a place that will ship to Canada that has N50 tips for the FR-300? Let me know and I will investigate the shipping. I guess the FR-300 is new enough that the tips haven't made their way on ebay yet.

The include N50-04 1mm tip is fine but there are some applications where i need a narrower outside diameter and a larger inside diameter.

[jpb]

Without there being any three-way comparisons of Hakko vs Goot vs Denon guns, the best I can figure so far...
So which will end up being the most productive in use???

Don't over think it. If you need 240V, then Denon. If 120V, then Hakko. Both are nice guns. Any choice might be a small compromise, but I'm sure you will be satisfied with the performance and operation of either.

I'm in the UK and I've just been told by Dancap (the Hakko dealer here) that as the FR300 needs to get CE certification, realistically it will be about 3 months before it is in production and available in Europe. My choices seem to be

Hakko 808CE from Dancap for £236:14 + P&P + VAT =  £295
with spare nozzles costing £9:65 + VAT = £11:58

The Denon is available from Farnell for £369 + VAT = £442
but spare nozzles cost a mind boggling £52 + VAT = £62

I can't see that the Goot is available in the UK at all.

Can anyone in the UK suggest cheaper options in the UK (as apposed to importing)? Why are Denon nozzles so expensive (there is slightly more to them than the Hakko ones but if you want to have two sizes to work with it comes to over £500 (or nearly $850!!!)

I'm a bit reluctant to buy an 808CE just as it is about to be discontinued but then again I don't want to wait around three months.

[PlainName]

Can anyone in the UK suggest cheaper options in the UK (as apposed to importing)?

Buy from the US place I mentioned before. OK, that's technically importing, but you save a bunch of money even if you get stiffed for import duty and VAT. If you're lucky they might not see it come in

[jpb]

Can anyone in the UK suggest cheaper options in the UK (as apposed to importing)?

Buy from the US place I mentioned before. OK, that's technically importing, but you save a bunch of money even if you get stiffed for import duty and VAT. If you're lucky they might not see it come in

Thanks - they are certainly cheaper than Farnell but there is less comeback if things go wrong or at least a lot more hassle. It also depends what they charge for postage - when I asked IET for a quote on the ED5000 capacitance meter the postage costs to the UK were something like $150. If the postal costs are around $100 then the total cost would be $500 plus import duty which is the same as VAT so it comes to around £360 rather than Farnell's £442.

For me the saving is probably not large enough to justify the risk that it might be wiped out by needing to return it to the US if it is faulty or they accidentally send me a 110V version or whatever.

It is a pity that being in the UK is so expensive for electronics goodies compared to the States.

[PlainName]

I hear what you're saying. It is worth having an active search on Ebay: most of them are silly prices, but now and then you get an affordable one (about £200). They seem to be reliable, but at that kind of price you could get another for spares

Unfortunately, the US place is still the cheapest for  the tips, but shipping can make it marginal unless you're buying a couple. If you do end up with one of these and want to get some extra tips, I'd be happy to add a couple to the order and split the costs of shipping with you. Or anyone else, for that matter...

[jpb]

I have a Den-on SC7000 and think it's fab. The main reason I got it, over something like the Hakko, is that you can reverse the airflow, so have a hot air gun instead with the flick of a switch. It's actually a little more complicated than that: you can get a tip specifically for blowing instead of sucking, and an unrestricted filter doobrey - the first is longer than normal so heats the air for longer, and the second lets more air pass. The result isn't anything like a dedicated hot air gun, but I use it to do a quick bit of heatshrink without bothering to change tip or filter.

Have you used this for SMD work at all? The Den-on (from Farnell) is around 50% more than the Hakko 808 but the extra might be worth it if the blow option is useable. If it is only really good for heatshrink then it is probably not worth the extra.

Though at present Farnell doesn't list the blow nozzle kit anyway - I've e-mailed them to find out if they sell it.

[PlainName]

Have you used this for SMD work at all?

Kind of. I tried it before I got the blower kit and it was promising but ultimately unsuccessful, probably due to the small tip orifice. I figured it would be OK if the board was preheated, though (which it really should be).

The other problem is that the heat needs to be whacked up due to the low airflow, and that causes the solder on the tip to dry out and make a horrible mess. There is also quite a bit of pressure involved, and that causes the spring holding the collection glass seals in place to not  hold them in place, so you lose air pressure...

The blower tip, not being used for soldering, doesn't suffer from that so can take the full 500C if necessary, and has a decent sized orifice. And the blower glass is a few mm longer so keeps the seals in place. It all sounds like a bit of a drag...

Nevertheless, I was using it in blower mode this weekend to do heatshrink stuff. I have an Aoyue 852, which is what I used for this before, but that's a drag to use with the thick airline trailing and the need to be careful where it's pointing when not in use.

The blower aspect of the Den-on is somewhat more useful (or not as useless, depending on your view) as it might first appear. But I would treat it more as icing than sponge, if it were a cake. If I were paying Farnell prices I wouldn't cough 50% extra for the blower facility - that would buy something like the 852, if you don't already have one, and that's much more capable and wide ranging.

Bear in mind that I haven't used a Hakko, but going from the comments on here it seems to be pretty capable. I have to say that in your position, buying from Farnell, I would probably go for the Hakko.

[jpb]

Have you used this for SMD work at all?

Kind of. I tried it before I got the blower kit and it was promising but ultimately unsuccessful, probably due to the small tip orifice. I figured it would be OK if the board was preheated, though (which it really should be).

The other problem is that the heat needs to be whacked up due to the low airflow, and that causes the solder on the tip to dry out and make a horrible mess. There is also quite a bit of pressure involved, and that causes the spring holding the collection glass seals in place to not  hold them in place, so you lose air pressure...

The blower tip, not being used for soldering, doesn't suffer from that so can take the full 500C if necessary, and has a decent sized orifice. And the blower glass is a few mm longer so keeps the seals in place. It all sounds like a bit of a drag...

Nevertheless, I was using it in blower mode this weekend to do heatshrink stuff. I have an Aoyue 852, which is what I used for this before, but that's a drag to use with the thick airline trailing and the need to be careful where it's pointing when not in use.

The blower aspect of the Den-on is somewhat more useful (or not as useless, depending on your view) as it might first appear. But I would treat it more as icing than sponge, if it were a cake. If I were paying Farnell prices I wouldn't cough 50% extra for the blower facility - that would buy something like the 852, if you don't already have one, and that's much more capable and wide ranging.

Bear in mind that I haven't used a Hakko, but going from the comments on here it seems to be pretty capable. I have to say that in your position, buying from Farnell, I would probably go for the Hakko.

Thanks for that. It is very useful to know. Farnell are intrinsically expensive, the Hakko is from Dancap but I'm hanging on a bit for the Hakko FR300 to get its CE rating and become available in the UK. The Den-on would save me the wait but is a bit too pricey and I'm reluctant to get the old Hakko 808 just a month or two before it is replaced.

[PlainName]

The Den-on would save me the wait but is a bit too pricey

The simple answer to that is to buy it from the US instead of Farnell, and get the blower kit plus whatever tips you want at the same time to save on shipping later. There is the warranty aspect, of course...

[jpb]

And you need a fairly chunky transformer... It's worth it though. I bought a 100V 500W step-down converter years ago and it has saved me twenty times what it cost.

I think for the Den-on you can get the 220V version from the states so don't need the transformer. You would need one for the Hakko as their 230V version hasn't passed CE testing yet.
From dunkemhigh's link to howard electronics:

This tool is available in 110V or 220V.

[gmit77]

And you need a fairly chunky transformer... It's worth it though. I bought a 100V 500W step-down converter years ago and it has saved me twenty times what it cost.

I think for the Den-on you can get the 220V version from the states so don't need the transformer. You would need one for the Hakko as their 230V version hasn't passed CE testing yet.
From dunkemhigh's link to howard electronics:

This tool is available in 110V or 220V.

CE testing has passed, we have the CE certificate in our hands 
first 50 units arrive end of August
ciao

[iRad]

CE testing has passed, we have the CE certificate in our hands 
first 50 units arrive end of August

Good News for the rest of you folks needing 220V. I have been using my 110V model most every day for more than two months now with no complaints. A very nice and welcome improvement over the previous 808 I used for years.

[iRad]

Okay, but will it cost 2x as much as the 100V version? I hope not.

Here is the formula for that: EUR = USD(V/110)

[tcsaba101]

Hi

I have never used this kind of tool.

This one resembles in shape to hakko tools.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251237388856

Is it good for light desoldering jobs or absolutely uncomparable with hakko?

[PlainName]

I have no idea what that one is like is use, but a possible problem with it is spares: you will need to replace the filters, maybe the clear catcher if you drop it, perhaps the front seal now and then, etc. Will these still be available when the manufacturers have moved on to something else? Come to that, are they available right now?

[neslekkim]

Wonder if that price from Batterfly is including VAT, since I'm outside EU, I would like to buy it without VAT, since I have to pay VAT when it arrives here.

Btw, are you in UK?, if so, did you check with Dancap?, haven't seen it online yet, but maybe they have an idea about price..


And btw, Japan, voltage level there, is 100v?, they don't sell 220/230 volt versions in Japan I guess?

[mcinque]

Wonder if that price from Batterfly is including VAT, since I'm outside EU, I would like to buy it without VAT, since I have to pay VAT when it arrives here.

Prices on Batterfly are NOT VAT included.

[neslekkim]

bah, got the prices from the reseller in Norway, $500 before 25% vat.. damn..

But it's still cheaper than the 808 which was around $630 ex vat..

[Sjokolade]

Got mine for 590$ US including 25% tax, should be here in 2 days.

[neslekkim]

from emagen..?, or other reseller?

[Sjokolade]

Yes, from Emagenturer.

[neslekkim]

do your transformer output 100 or 110 volts?, since japan have 100, and typically US have 110, will 110 give problems?, I guess it shouldnt but..

[gmit77]

here we are, some FR-300s 
pics from our office today

[iRad]

here we are, some FR-300s 

Nice! Are these the 220 volt version?

[gmit77]

YES

[neslekkim]

what was the price again? (to tired to find the link.. )

Do you have that stand that would fit it?, i think people have recomended Hakko 633-01 for it.

[iRad]

YES

Excellent, I know many fans of this gun will be happy that a 220 volt version is finally available. What is the wattage rating on the 220 version, is it 140W as on the 110 volt version?

[iRad]

what was the price again? (to tired to find the link.. )

Do you have that stand that would fit it?, i think people have recomended Hakko 633-01 for it.

The Hakko 633-01 works well. See Reply #80 for a picture of the gun in that stand.

[gmit77]

we are loading some more images to the product pages
check the TAB Specs and you will see how to remove the tip and what is included into the standard delivery

http://www.batterfly.com/shop/hakko-fr-300

what was the price again? (to tired to find the link.. )

Do you have that stand that would fit it?, i think people have recomended Hakko 633-01 for it.

[gmit77]

from the user manual:
100V 98W, 110V 122W, 120V 140W
220V 105W, 230V 118W, 240V 130W

YES

Excellent, I know many fans of this gun will be happy that a 220 volt version is finally available. What is the wattage rating on the 220 version, is it 140W as on the 110 volt version?

[Sjokolade]

Have been using mine for a few weeks now and I'm very happy with it so far - will be ordering bigger nozzles for it.

Removing these dc jacks is always a pain, using the new Hakko is so much easier.
I use 3592 flux for this job, tip seems ok with it so far.

[Sjokolade]

and done.

[gmit77]

nice and clean! congrats

and done.

[ablacon64]

Great tool! I wanted the 808 badly, this one seems even better!

[neslekkim]

What is the nozzle sizes that is useful for normal usage?, I guess one don't need them all?


And do nozzles come with cleaningpin?, or do you need to buy those extra?

[neslekkim]

Nobody with experience of the 808/300 and recomendation on nozzle sizes etc?

[gmit77]

on next monday, when I go back to the office, I will run a query to see how many and what models nozzles for 808 and Fr-300 we sold.
then I will post a value for each models.
hope it helps, at list from statistic point of view.
the FR-300 is a bit too new to make proper statistic, what I can see at the moment is 2 different order format:
1) take the FR-300 with the standard included nozzle
2) take the FR-300 with all nozzles
again, I will be more accurate next week.

[RobertHolcombe]

Regarding tip size I personally have 1.0mm and 1.6mm available at work but stick almost exclusively to the 1.6mm as it works fine for any through-hole work and is still small enough for SMD pad cleanup

[neslekkim]

Yes, I was wondering if I should buy with all nozzless (is there an offer with all?)

But then I guess I eventually need the cleaning pin for all, I guess the cleaning pin is not included with each nozzle?
And then, if one also need the drill for them..

I might be asking stupid questions, but I havent had this tool before, and was planning to buy this so I stop destroying pads when unsoldering components..

[all_repair]

Yes, I was wondering if I should buy with all nozzless (is there an offer with all?)

But then I guess I eventually need the cleaning pin for all, I guess the cleaning pin is not included with each nozzle?
And then, if one also need the drill for them..

I might be asking stupid questions, but I havent had this tool before, and was planning to buy this so I stop destroying pads when unsoldering components..

You should get all the cleaning kits, and in additional get some additional tiny drill bits from hardware shop (cheaper than Hakko) or from HobbyKing.  As from the head, it all depend on your usages.  The right one shall give you the best result.  I got multiple for  the standard heads, and 1 set for those unusual ones like those for relay and super long nose.  Hakko US has the widest range. 

Silicon gease is useful for you to apply the metal filter so the solder does not stick easily to them.

[iRad]

WOW! That is an EXCELLENT price.  

Much better than even paid here in the US. 

[nowlan]

Arent japan using 110v? Or did vendor have 220v?

[iRad]

Arent japan using 110v? Or did vendor have 220v?

I think Japan has 100 volt grid, so the unit would use same version as sold in US, only the heater output wattage would be a bit less at only 100 volts. Still a great buy for that price.

[neslekkim]

Would have been very cool if they have sold 220/230 versions also in Japan, but I guess they are guarding their market well..

[gmit77]

hello, we try to follow the market demand, we now offer products bundle
hope this helps

[neslekkim]

Which bundles?, link?

When I search "Hakko 300" then I get an searchresult of 254 products, and the bundle I can se on the first page is 300+888?

Bundles I'm looking for is kinda the 300 + accessories, like tips, needles, filters, stand etc..  but the search is not at all easy to use

[gmit77]

ciao neslekkim, I understand. on the search look for "bundle" this will generate a cleaner result
a bundle of accessories is not easy to manage but we will look into it
thanks

[neslekkim]

products on the related page is also ok.

The filters, I'm not sure what the pre-filter is, I thought that there is some filters, A1033(?) that is needed, of which the tool only comes with a couple of spares.
On the other hand, those are easily available on ebay though..

[gmit77]

and then you will start fighting with insurance and shipment companies

[pyromaniac4382]

I recently purchased a  Hakko FR-300 Desoldering Gun and I was quite happy with the performance for the first few hours using it. The problem is after a few hours the unit stopped vacuuming properly so I disassembled and used the cleaning pins to alleviate the problem. The heating element cleaning pin worked as expected. To my surprise the cleaning pin provided for the 1.0mm nozzle tip did not fit within the tip's cavity. I am sure it is supposed to fit. I provided a lot of pressure trying to fit the cleaning pin into the nozzle with no positive result. I don't want to keep trying the motor if something is stuck in the nozzle because it will probably hurt the motor from all the extra strain. Anyone else have this problem? I am waiting to hear back from Hakko as I have contacted them with this question as well.

[iRad]

I recently purchased a  Hakko FR-300 Desoldering Gun and I was quite happy with the performance for the first few hours using it. The problem is after a few hours the unit stopped vacuuming properly so I disassembled and used the cleaning pins to alleviate the problem. The heating element cleaning pin worked as expected. To my surprise the cleaning pin provided for the 1.0mm nozzle tip did not fit within the tip's cavity...

The cleaning pins fit and work fine, but if you got something stuck, it could be difficult to clean. Try removing the nozzle and turning the heat all the way up to its hottest setting. Then try using the cleaning pin, if it's just solder that is stuck, then that should clear it. If you got something other than solder stuck that is not meltable, then you will probably have to drill it out using one of the proper drilling tools provided by Hakko. Just be careful you don't break off a drilling bit inside the heating element, or then you really have trouble...

[coppice]

Why are all these desoldering tools made in gun format now? They are so clumsy to use. Hakko and others used to make really nice desoldering tools, both manual (i.e. spring) and vacuum powered, in pencil format. They were far better to use.

[PlainName]

I would suspect that it is because these are standalone suckers where the pump is part of the handpiece. There are not a lot of ways you can hide the pump motor, and the grip of a pistol-style device is thus attractive.

The pencil type all required a separate box where things like the pump and controls were stashed, I think.

[neslekkim]

Why are all these desoldering tools made in gun format now? They are so clumsy to use. Hakko and others used to make really nice desoldering tools, both manual (i.e. spring) and vacuum powered, in pencil format. They were far better to use.

JBC have the smaller type, Hakko have this: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fm2024.html where you can take of the handle.

But the price is totally different..

[coppice]

Why are all these desoldering tools made in gun format now? They are so clumsy to use. Hakko and others used to make really nice desoldering tools, both manual (i.e. spring) and vacuum powered, in pencil format. They were far better to use.

JBC have the smaller type, Hakko have this: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fm2024.html where you can take of the handle.

But the price is totally different..

This is a Hakko tool I bought over 20 years ago. They don't appear to make anything like this today. I think it was about $15, and I would rather use this than an FR300. Its so comfortable and accurate that these qualities overcome the downside of having to reset the plunger after every suck.

[neslekkim]

Aha, those, I think Farnell have something like that

[toni31]

hello, we try to follow the market demand, we now offer products bundle
hope this helps

I see at your site the Hakko fr-300 (BUN-2) is in stock but the FR 300 it will be Available soon.
Do you have an estimated time.
The members of this site is it possible to take advantage of a discount code.

[gmit77]

Hello, FR-300 should be available, I will check tomorrow morning and update the post.
FX888D is available in silver only, blue and yellow end of January.
Thanks.

[toni31]

hello, we try to follow the market demand, we now offer products bundle
hope this helps

I see at your site the Hakko fr-300 (BUN-2) is in stock but the FR 300 it will be Available soon.
Do you have an estimated time.
The members of this site is it possible to take advantage of a discount code.

Hello, FR-300 should be available, I will check tomorrow morning and update the post.
FX888D is available in silver only, blue and yellow end of January.
Thanks.

Any discount code for fr300

[gmit77]

FR-300 is on stock, updataed e-shop, discount sent to PM
thanks

[toni31]

Thanks

[postermaniacs]

Any discount code for fr300   

[gmit77]

Sent to PM
Thanks

[AKM]

I recently purchased a  Hakko FR-300 Desoldering Gun and I was quite happy with the performance for the first few hours using it. The problem is after a few hours the unit stopped vacuuming properly so I disassembled and used the cleaning pins to alleviate the problem. The heating element cleaning pin worked as expected. To my surprise the cleaning pin provided for the 1.0mm nozzle tip did not fit within the tip's cavity. I am sure it is supposed to fit. I provided a lot of pressure trying to fit the cleaning pin into the nozzle with no positive result. I don't want to keep trying the motor if something is stuck in the nozzle because it will probably hurt the motor from all the extra strain. Anyone else have this problem? I am waiting to hear back from Hakko as I have contacted them with this question as well.

Mine fits only ~5mm into the tip. Did you get any reply from Hakko?

[bitshape]

Do you have any discount for the FR-300?

How long takes shipping to Netherlands (NL) ?  Thanks in advance. 

[gmit77]

sent PM

[owiecc]

Now you tell me there is a discount code .

I use mine quite often. I managed to clog up the tip two times. Both times the cleaning rod did not help. I used a drill and a hammer to unclog it. You break the drill but it is very effective.

[iRad]

If you do as mojo-chan suggests, then you should not have to need a hammer and drill to unclog it. It is a MUST that any solder gun tip is kept clean, and often. I've seen some tips get clogged with something and become near impossible to clean, but a bit of preventive maintenance goes a long way. Sure it can be a small bother to constantly stop your work to keep the tip clean, but tips are very expensive... Good drill bits are expensive also, so don't break them either.

[carpin]

gmit77

Discount code

Grazie infinite

[gmit77]

Sent PM

[staze]

Got an FR-300 in September, and went to power it on today... heater element is dead. So, 5 months, less than 2 hours use time.

Have emailed Hakko about a replacement (should have a 1 year warranty). Yes, I checked the resistance... sensor reads as ~50R, heater element... 440Meg. Should be 35R. She's dead jim. Funnily, they don't even have the heater as a replacement part on their site: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300_parts.html#productNav

Sadness. =( Will post when I hear back from them.

[staze]

Heard back. They don't just ship replacement parts (sadly), but they did send me a (UPS Ground) shipping label to send in the whole unit to them and they'll diagnose and fix, or quote if there's something I did (which, I didn't) that requires repair.

Guess we'll see... always sucks to have a tool (toy) break down. =(

[iRad]

Got an FR-300 in September, and went to power it on today... heater element is dead. So, 5 months, less than 2 hours use time.

The same thing happened to mine last October, although I had many more than 2 hours use when it died. I got mine in the beginning of May, but like yours, there was no abuse or reason for the heater to crap out. After checking resistance, Hakko also sent me a prepaid return label for shipping  . They repaired mine under warranty and it was back to me in just over a weeks time including turn-around and shipping both ways .

This was the technician's comments on the repair ticket:
"Upon inspection, our technician found the following: Received dsldr tool with used N50-04 nozzle only. Upon inspection found tool powering-up but unable to heat-up due to the ceramic heater was found broken-off from the heating core. Front holder was found cracked/worn out. Found with the set temperature control at setting #2 with no adjustment to the CAL POT. Enclosure and nozzle are used and still functional - replacement is optional. Heating element and front holder will be replace in warranty. Maintenance will be provided and temperature will be adjusted at ±10°F from the set temperature. All else okay at this time."

I was hopping my trouble was just a fluke, so did not want to say anything until I saw other reports of the same thing happening. I guess it could happen two or three times without being an issue, but certainly something to keep an eye on .

Staze, please post back with Hakko's findings.

Since then I have put many more hours on the gun without further problems .

[staze]

Got an FR-300 in September, and went to power it on today... heater element is dead. So, 5 months, less than 2 hours use time.

The same thing happened to mine last October, although I had many more than 2 hours use when it died. I got mine in the beginning of May, but like yours, there was no abuse or reason for the heater to crap out. After checking resistance, Hakko also sent me a prepaid return label for shipping  . They repaired mine under warranty and it was back to me in just over a weeks time including turn-around and shipping both ways .

Makes me wonder if the initial run of heaters may have had some issue...

Mine has a date stamp of April 2014, so yeah, probably same vintage. Anyway, yes, I'll report back. Unit was never dropped (in fact, I have the "stand" on the floor and when the unit is on/hot I just place it back on the stand on the floor so it _doesn't_ fall).

[staze]

Just got confirmation they're going to fix under warranty. Sadly, I won't have it until Monday rather than Tomorrow. =(

Their repair engineer reports:

"Received dsldr tool in used condition with N50-04 nozzle only. Upon inspection found tool powering-up but with the ceramic heating element electrically open - no resistance value. Found set temperature control at 400°C and no adjustment to the CAL POT. Filter pipe is in some need of maintenance. Nozzle and nut enclosure have some usage and still functional. Heating element will be replace in warranty and temperature will be adjusted at ±10°F from the set temperature. All else okay at this time."

The "filter pipe" comment is mainly that I didn't bother to knock out the solder that was rattling around in there before sending it in. =P

So, pretty happy with Hakko. They paid for me to ship it in, and did the work for me. Sure, I could have done it myself, but I don't have a soldering iron cal setup, so I would have had no good way to calibrate it if I'd done the work myself. =) Here's hoping that this isn't a widespread issue because I love the thing. It's been brutal to not have it since I had a couple repairs waiting...

[iRad]

Their repair engineer reports:

"... Upon inspection found tool powering-up but with the ceramic heating element electrically open - no resistance value...  Heating element will be replace in warranty and temperature will be adjusted at ±10°F from the set temperature..."

Looks like it basically had the same problem as mine. At least they are taking good care of it and I'm hoping the newer heating elements last longer. So far mine is holding out...

[staze]

Their repair engineer reports:

"... Upon inspection found tool powering-up but with the ceramic heating element electrically open - no resistance value...  Heating element will be replace in warranty and temperature will be adjusted at ±10°F from the set temperature..."

Looks like it basically had the same problem as mine. At least they are taking good care of it and I'm hoping the newer heating elements last longer. So far mine is holding out...

Yup. Guessing some flaw in those elements... or at least a higher failure rate than normal. Or, maybe we're just the normal failure percentage and we happen to frequent the same water cooler. =)

Wish I had more repairs so I could use the thing more... maybe if I got a real stand for it so it was on the bench all the time rather than in the case. =)

[iRad]

... maybe if I got a real stand for it so it was on the bench all the time rather than in the case. =)

Have you seen the stand I use? See Reply #78 and #80 in this thread. You can find them cheap on ePay.

[staze]

Excellent. Even looks like some shops are selling this stand WITH the FR-300.

And $35 doesn't seem too bad. Hmm...

Thanks!

[staze]

Amazon actually has it cheaper.

My question though is weight. Some comments on Amazon say it isn't heavy enough for the 808... I never had an 808, but I've heard the 300 is lighter. Any issues with the 300 tipping, or anything like that with the 633 stand?

[iRad]

I have used the stand with both the 808 and 300 with no problems. I did cut a small "notch" in the bottom of the plastic holder to accommodat a bit better fit of the nozzle of the FR-300 though. The nozzle now fits a little more flush and secure with the stand. There is no issue with weight between the two irons. Actually  the FR-300 I think is just a bit heavier.

[staze]

Interesting.

Just ordered one off Amazon, so we shall see. If you have a picture of the modification that would be great. Thanks again!

This also gives me a stand to stick my tip tinner tin to. (how's that for alliteration)

[staze]

holy crap, this stand is awesome. I haven't used it for my FR-300 yet, since it hasn't come back from repair quite yet, but even using it with my Hakko 936 is awesome (much better than the stock stand). Now I want to buy another one for it.... =P

[iRad]

Staze - Make a small notch in the stand matching where the small screw protrudes from the bottom of the nozzle and the stand will be even more awesome... 

Careful cutting, as the plastic can fracture easily... ask me how I know

Notice where I'm pointing with the probe tips.

[staze]

Perfect. Crazy that Hakko didn't do that themselves. Wonder how a "normal" iron will fit afterward.

You use a rotary (Dremel) tool to do it, or just elbow grease?

Will do that tonight since my FR-300 is back this evening as well. =)

[iRad]

Still works fine with a standard iron. Out of hast and laziness (the dremel is out in the shed), I originally just used a diag cutter to notch away at it. Unfortunately I took too big of a snip and broke a large piece of the plastic ring off. I then had to mend it with epoxy, after that hardened I finished it off correctly with a dremel. It's not pretty, but quite functional.

[tsmith35]

Probably the easiest way to modify this hard plastic is to use a round file. To avoid marring the top of the ring, cover it with something (a few layers of duct tape, some sheet metal from an aluminum can, etc) and hold the file vertical so that it just clears the top of the ring. Once you've cut the notch in, use some sandpaper wrapped around a pencil to smooth out the edges.

[iRad]

If your happy with the way it sits, then no, but it will fit more securely with the small mod.

[staze]

iRad,

So, did you notice your FR-300 heating WAY faster than it used to with your replacement element? I got mine, and on first power up, there were a couple "pops" and "clicks" as things heated up, and I swear it was up to temp in 20 seconds or less. Also drew, at max close to 170W (plugged into Kill-a-watt). I'm not complaining at all, but damn...

[iRad]

YES I DID. I was wondering if you might have the same reaction from yours. Makes me really wonder if something was bad in some of the first production heater elements. I wrote back to Hakko about this same experience when I received mine back from repair.

[staze]

Did they say anything about it, or do you mean you mentioned it in their customer service survey?

And cool, glad I'm not the only one.

[iRad]

In their customer service survey.

[staze]

Date code on mine was 2014.04.2.

[neslekkim]

Which datecode does the models Batterfly have then?

[KJDS]

I've just found a Hakko 470 lurking in a box. Great bit of kit. I also found some similar Pace desoldering tools which also work very well.

[jcgae]

sent PM

Hello gmit77,
just wondering if I can have a discount too ? I'm located in France
 
JC

[RichardFr]

Hello,
Here are informations about mine, coming from Batterfly :
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/all-in-one-solderdesolderair-station-bk-6000-vs-aoyue-int2703a/msg629706/#msg629706
If you have informations about the revision, don't hesitate to comment

[neslekkim]

Mine is 2014.09, looks like it was fixed by then.

Where is this datecode located?

[staze]

Sticker on the unit.

[staze]

iRad,

Did your repaired unit also have a louder pump? I used mine a bunch yesterday, and the pump got progressively louder, and stranger sounding. I also get little puffs of smoke out of the back of the unit now, where I don't recall that happening before...

[iRad]

No difference in the sound noted, and no puffs of smoke either. The only notable time the sound changes up is when the tip is getting clogged or the filter is getting full.

BTW: My datecode is 2014.04 2. Same as yours, only no dot between the 04 and 2 on mine, just a space.

[staze]

No difference in the sound noted, and no puffs of smoke either. The only notable time the sound changes up is when the tip is getting clogged or the filter is getting full.

BTW: My datecode is 2014.04 2. Same as yours, only no dot between the 04 and 2 on mine, just a space.

Yeah, no 0 on mine either... think I was filling that in.

Hmm... I'll take a look at the tip. I cleaned out the catch tube and filters. Hmm...

[staze]

Contacted Hakko about pump noise, and smoke exiting the unit. Their Engineer piped up and said "that's not normal, I'm authorizing to send you a whole new unit... send the old one back when you get it so we can have a look".

Wow... gotta say, pretty awesome company.

[iRad]

I have been happy with their service and support. Good to know they are treating you well. 
Let us know your experience when you get the replacement.

[neslekkim]

Crap..

Have anyone seen the price of the Hakko FR 400?

[iRad]

The new Hakko FR-400
I want one... anybody seen one yet? How much???

[neslekkim]

Have only seen this:

http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr400.html

Was just looking for the productnumbers for various extras for the 300 that I'm expecting tomorrow, and found that they have released an new model.. interresting nozzles on this one.

[iRad]

Saw that, and I have also seen this here:

[gmit77]

hello, some info about FR-400 and FX-801.
as you have noticed they are new products, we will get both of them on the first week of April only for test purpose.
those two models are not CE approved yet, HAKKO is confident to be ready for the EU market in May 2015, but so far it is a guess only. we can provide more solid info by time to time.

FR-400 is a complete new design by HAKKO for heavy duty challenge. t is interesting to see the new anti-clogging system:


any question pls ask.

copied and pasted into the new thread

[iRad]

Just started a new thread about this one. See:
NEW - Hakko FR-400 Desoldering Tool

[staze]

Just started a new thread about this one. See:
NEW - Hakko FR-400 Desoldering Tool

Thank you. No need to hijack this thread...

[staze]

So, got the new one. Datecode is 2025.03 2, so this month!

Only difference I see is they marked the trigger with "Vacuum" (see picture). Otherwise, seems very similar.

iRad, one question: Do you have any extra tips for yours? If so, how do you store them? I was thinking of some way to store them on the 633 stand, but can't think of an easy way.

[iRad]

Just drill some holes to drop them into.
Personally I move my stand around too much, and don't want to keep bits in it that could jar loose and get lost. I just use the stands that came with some of my other Hakko equipment. I had to modify those with a drill to hold the FR-300 bits and put a couple of extra small holes for some cleaning rods.

[staze]

iRad,

I swear, you're going to be the death of me (or rather, my wallet). I wish I'd seen this thing ages ago... I went and bought a .22 gauge bullet "case" to hold all my weller tips (one of my irons is one of the bit controls the temperature Wellers). This looks much better.

Damn it man... Is it just solid plastic?

[iRad]

The Hakko Tip Tray is solid aluminum. I put a rubber pad on the bottom of each to help keep them from sliding easily on the shelf. I could have made something similar/better on the lathe and mill, but these came with other Hakko equipment and work well enough.

The Hakko Part Number is: B2756 (Tip Tray)
Here is a link on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311326286224
(no connection with seller)

[staze]

The Hakko Tip Tray is solid aluminum. I put a rubber pad on the bottom of each to help keep them from sliding easily on the shelf. I could have made something similar/better on the lathe and mill, but these came with other Hakko equipment and work well enough.

Just ordered one. Did you use a step bit to widen the holes for the N50 tips, or...?

[iRad]

Just use a 21/64 HSS twist drill bit. Depth of the larger boar hole is only about 1/2", as the original hole allows the tip to recess further.

I also drilled several of the other holes deeper into the holder, so that some of my longer tips would seat further into the holder. Hakko boars the holes too shallow in my opinion.

[staze]

21/64?! Now I know you do machining. That is a very odd size (not something in my bit sets). :p

[iRad]

Not odd at all. Any good HSS bit set increments by 64ths.

An 11/32 bit will also allow the tip to fit, if just a tad bit loose. Next size up from there by 16ths of an inch is 3/8, but the hole is pretty sloppy loose at that point.

[staze]

Cool. I have very few drill bits, so I'll have to pick one up... and resist the urge to just buy a HF set... because nothing good could ever come of that.

[staze]

Okay, bought a bit set that had a 21/64ths.

Curious, what size are the holes that you drilled for the cleaning "pins". I have the 1mm and 1.6mm ones, and kind of curious if I should just drill two 1/16th holes (so I don't have to worry about which is which).

[iRad]

I just drilled two 1/16 inch holes...

[staze]

I just drilled two 1/16 inch holes...

Cool. Depth?

Also, since I haven't drilled a lot of Al, did you bother with any kind of cutting fluid (I was just figuring some 3-in-1 oil... since I don't have any rapid tap or anything), or just go slow (drill, clear, drill, clear)?

[iRad]

...or just go slow (drill, clear, drill, clear)?

Yep, and about as deep as your bit will easily go. Careful not to break the bit off inside the hole.

[staze]

Cool. For those interested, I got some "Everbilt" anti-skid self adhesive pads that are 2" (51mm) in diameter, and they fit the bottom of the holder perfectly.

[iRad]

Can't you pester Hakko to make a nozzle for the FR-300, that is similar to N60-08 / N60-09 ?

This is quoted from the FR-400 thread, but worthy of posting here.

A nozzle similar to the N60-08 / N60-09 (available for FR-400) would be very useful to FR-300 users.

[gmit77]

Can't you pester Hakko to make a nozzle for the FR-300, that is similar to N60-08 / N60-09 ?

This is quoted from the FR-400 thread, but worthy of posting here.

A nozzle similar to the N60-08 / N60-09 (available for FR-400) would be very useful to FR-300 users.

Yes, agree. Let see what HAKKO will reply.

[staze]

iRad,

Do you also have any T18 tips? Think I need to widen the holes on the tip holder just a tiny bit for them.

[iRad]

Just in the junk drawer. Haven't used them in ages.

[staze]

Lol. Elitist. :p

[gmit77]

Can't you pester Hakko to make a nozzle for the FR-300, that is similar to N60-08 / N60-09 ?

This is quoted from the FR-400 thread, but worthy of posting here.

A nozzle similar to the N60-08 / N60-09 (available for FR-400) would be very useful to FR-300 users.

Yes, agree. Let see what HAKKO will reply.

it seems the FR-300 does not have enough thermal capacity to work with such shapes

[neslekkim]

it seems the FR-300 does not have enough thermal capacity to work with such shapes

After using the fr-300, I'm not sure if I believe that, we are not talking about the biggest ones, but one simple with a slotted hole.
But I would guess that Hakko will have you to get the fr-400 for those jobs, I only want to be able to unsolder those small powerconnectors with spades.

[gmit77]

it seems the FR-300 does not have enough thermal capacity to work with such shapes

After using the fr-300, I'm not sure if I believe that, we are not talking about the biggest ones, but one simple with a slotted hole.
But I would guess that Hakko will have you to get the fr-400 for those jobs, I only want to be able to unsolder those small powerconnectors with spades.

hello, I guess it is a first reply since the N60-08/09 are very new. I'm sure they will consider same shape smaller dimensions for future.

[neslekkim]

hello, I guess it is a first reply since the N60-08/09 are very new. I'm sure they will consider same shape smaller dimensions for future.

I hope so , maybe the chinese will make an clone
If I did professional use I can see that the 400 is a better choice, but for hobby the 300 is very good.

[CRi]

sent PM

Hi gmit77,

I also would like to buy a Hakko FR-300, is it possible to have a discount code?

Thanks in advance !

[gmit77]

sent PM

[nzCdog]

Dredge, I know
Do any users have comments on this desolder device, now that it has been around a while?  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance 

[helius]

Do any users have comments on this desolder device, now that it has been around a while?  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance 

Some comments in this thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr300-do-you-recommend-it/
It seems like there were some infant mortality with early units, which has been fixed.

[nzCdog]

Do any users have comments on this desolder device, now that it has been around a while?  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance 

Some comments in this thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr300-do-you-recommend-it/
It seems like there were some infant mortality with early units, which has been fixed.

Thanks man, very helpful

[CkRtech]

I have had a bit of trouble with working the cleaning pin into the tip and pushing it through to the chamber whereas it used to be mostly easy (with still a bit of resistance as I push it through).

Any cleaning/maintenance suggestions to help me out?

[RobertHolcombe]

I have the same problem occasionally, and have used a small drill bits (usually 0.1-0.2mm smaller diameter than the tip) in a pin-vice to gently clear out the tip. Regularly using the full size (hex profile) cleaning pin which requires removal of the tip will make it easier to use the smaller diameter cleaning pins.

[neslekkim]

The cleaning pin is used when the tool is hot right?, but what about the drills?, when cold?, or hot?
I bought some original drills to use, after first trying some cheap drills from ebay, those had bigger head than they should, and very soft, the original ones seems better, but crazy expensive compared to normal drills..

[RobertHolcombe]

Yep I use both the cleaning pins and/or drill bits while the tool is hot and powered on, then apply suction to clear any remaining crud from the barrel before powering it off after use.

[Rikerek]

Hello!

Would it still be possible to obtain a discount code for HAKKO FR-300 purchase?

Whatever the answer, thanks in advance!

[carlostex]

Hi, new guy here! 

I would also like to get a discount from Batter Fly for a Hakko FR-300.

I really need to fix my IBM XT 5160 motherboard, get all those nasty tantalums replaced, and i'm sick of cheap lo grade tools. I need a good quality tool, i don't wanna damage the board.

Thanks!!!

[giuliani77]

Hi to everybody. I ask gmit77 for a discount code to buy Hakoo FR-300 and some accesories.
If is still available.
Thanks in advance.

[Ray.B]

I am in the USA Ray.B
 
     I seen a guy (Richard UK ) having some solder stuck in his new Hakko FR-300 in the UK.  His website was on You Tube "We Conclude the Hakko FR-300 and put it to rest," "Richard UK".  He also had a previous You Tube video on his Hakko FR-300 before this one.  I mentioned to him that he should have sent the Hakko in for repairs which was under warranty.  You have to watch the video and shudder.
     Richard said that he measured the mains voltage at his area and it was 240 Volts,  the Hakko FR-300 was set to 220 Volts on the board that he had.  I was wondering if the difference in voltages would cause the resistor to arched over.   Richard also said that he was having trouble trying to clear out a solder blockage in his Hakko FR-300 and overstressed the motor.  He was very mad about the problems he was having with his 300 dollar learning experience.  He probably can't get his Hakko repaired because of all the damage he did, but he could replace the PWB, the board is listed under B5012 for the 220-230 Volt version and a B5013 for the 240 Volt version.  I don't know the differences, and probably the 220 Volt version is the only one the UK is authorized to use, even though he has 240 Volts in his area.  He also was asking about the motor, he could power it up with 35 Volts AC on the leads to see if it worked,  ( the motor is the only thing that Hakko won't replace, only internally.)   (In my post I mentioned that he could use a isolation transformer and variac to test it.)  Richards topic was about six months old.    Later Ray.B