HAKKO FR-301 desoldering tool

[simone.pignatti]

HAKKO has released the new FR-301 desoldering tool with improved anti clogging system. The unit is already available with CE mark and 220/240V input.



This unit support different nozzle from FR-300.
Nozzle N61 series is the same for FR-410, it offers more shapes including the high demanded oval one.

[julianhigginson]

That looks like a nice improvement.

now I know why element14(farnell) is having a deep discount on their FR-300 stock at the moment.

any idea of when we should expect the 301 to start showing up outside japan?

[jasonbrent]

Of course they have... since my 300 just arrived last week..

[simone.pignatti]

We have them but we are based in Europe

[Ray.B]

Hi guys

     Ray.B here and I called American Hakko a while back about the FR-301 which was listed on the Japanese Hakko website.  I had bought the FR-300 late last year, and I was asking about the length of support for the FR-300 which I just bought.  Well they then said that they didn't have it on their website yet.  Well today, Hakko discontinued the FR-300, they have three years for sales and five years minimum to when parts and tip will run out ( maybe longer if the parts last ), per their website announcement.
    While I had them on the phone I asked if they would produce a conversion kit or upgrade path for a FR-300 to FR-301 conversion.  They took it under consideration.  I just downloaded a FR-301 parts list from Hakko and some of the parts are the same between the FR-300 and FR-301.  I noticed that the heater and the tip parts were different of course, some of the other parts were identical part numbers.  Some of the parts are different numbers, but they may fit the FR-300.  I noticed the parts list for the FR-301 shows different part numbers for the motor 120, and 240, where the FR-300 used a 35 volt motor changing input voltages with resistors, on the EEVblog forums.  Maybe they changed the motor to a full line voltage direct drive?  Well at least we have two to three years to sort out the differences, to get a list of parts to convert our FR-300 to FR-301.  Later Ray.B

[matura713]

Well at least we have two to three years to sort out the differences, to get a list of parts to convert our FR-300 to FR-301.  Later Ray.B

actually, it seems Hakko already took great care to make such conversion impossible even from financial standpoint (not to mention finding to buy the corresponding FR-301 part), because calculating the cost of all obviously different parts gives total cost of such conversion essential more than buying FR-301. so, especially people like me that recently purchased FR-300 are simply f***ed by Hakko...and that whole story is another good example of 'planned obsolescence'.

Let me not just talk empty words, but give full details for my calculation:

1) Firstly, such conversion entirely depends on that if the control board inside FR-300 is fully compatible with the new Heating element for FR-301. So, let's assume this, because otherwise simply conversion cannot be done, because that board is not sold separately even for FR-300.

2) The motor doesn't matter, because even if FR-301 uses different one (as model, etc) it has the exact same specifications as the one inside FR-300:

"Vacuum Pressure: 81 kPa (610mmHg)"
"Suction flow: 11 L/m"

So, there is already motor in your FR-300 with the exact same capabilities as FR-301.

3) And here is the table of all the rest different parts between FR-301 and FR-301 (and price - the price is for FR-300 part only, in case Google search didn't reveal where corresponding FR-301 part can be purchased):

3.1) "Ceramic paper filter-L" (estimated cost around USD 10):
* FR-301 part A5044 - price: USD 9.57 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part A1033 - price: USD 10.40 (Amazon US), 9.57 (TEquipment)

3.2) "Pre-filter" (estimated cost around USD 6):
* FR-301 part B5104, price: USD 6.21 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5016, price: USD 5.81 (TEquipment)

3.3) "Front holder" (estimated cost around USD 4):
* FR-301 part A5030, price: USD 3.44 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part A1217, price: USD 10.90 (Amazon US), 2.94 (TEquipment)

3.4) "Filter holder" (estimated cost around USD 4):
* FR-301 part A5031, price: USD 3.93 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5020, price: USD 3.53 (TEquipment)

3.5) "Filter pipe" (estimated cost around USD 9):
* FR-301 part B5194, price: USD 8.58 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5017, price: USD 5.71 (TEquipment), USD 14.84 (Amazon US)

BTW, 3.1) to 3.5) are the parts forming the so-called "Filter pipe assembly"...

3.6) "Back holder"  (estimated cost around USD 5):
* FR-301 part B5195, price: USD 4.92 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5019, price: USD 4.43 (TEquipment)

3.7) "Heating element" (estimated cost - for sure more than the old heater for FR-300, let's say USD 100):
* FR-301 part UNKNOWN!! (Please, if you know the part number reply here to update it)
* FR-300 part:
- A5000 for 120V, i.e. for USA, price almost 80 USD (Amazon US), USD 55 (TEquipment)
- A5001 for 220-230, i.e. Europe, price around 60 EUR (basically in Europe is same price as the US version in Amazon)

3.8 ) "Protective pipe assembly" (estimated cost around USD 25):
* FR-301 part B5193, price USD 19.57 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5014, price USD 32.99 (Amazon US), USD 19.57 (TEquipment)

3.9) "Nozzle wrench" (estimated cost around USD 20):
* FR-301 part B5106, price USD 18.47 (TEquipment)
* FR-300 part B5014, price USD (cannot find anywhere sold seperately)

3.10) "Standard nozzle for FR-301", part number N61-08, price around 20 USD (widely available as it's for many Hakko products)

OK, even we're talking for 10 parts, it's very easy, because:

* 3.1 to 3.6 are the filter pipe and estimated price is around USD 40

* 3.7 is most essential - the heater and an open question from where to buy, how much exactly it costs and if it's in the first place compatible with the board inside FR-300. In any way, I think minimum price is no less than USD 60-80 considering the corresponding FR-300 part, let's put it USD

* 3.8 ), 3.9) and 3.10) are fully external parts and what you do every time when change the nozzle on FR-300,  total price of USD 65

That makes the conversion almost close to USD 200 - taking into account my case, that I am in Europe, need to pay shipping costs and then 20% or so in custom duties, then such conversion is more than new FR-301, which is USD 270.

Last, but not least would someone take the risk when even if 3.7) actually can be purchased it's questionable if it is compatible with FR-300 control board or not - most likely not. In case, what is left from FR-300, only the plastic case!!

I must say, if FR-300 control board is compatible with 3.7) and 3.7) can be purchased then at least as work involved the conversion is piece of cake.

[simone.pignatti]

FR-301 Heating element A5049 Euro 50 + VAT (same price of FR-300)

[matura713]

FR-301 Heating element A5049 Euro 50 + VAT (same price of FR-300)

thank you for that information... do you know who is selling A5049 in Europe? because searching in Google gives no results.

[simone.pignatti]

we have 3 pcs in stock, I sent you the link in PM

[matura713]

the final nail in the coffin (if the cost was not enough for you) why such conversion is not very feasible thing to do - the "flange" is the last difference (which I initially missed) between FR-300 and FR-301 and that part seems is not sold separately neither for FR-300, nor for FR-301 (please, post here if it's sold separately).

so, that "flange" is the black plastic part between the heating element and the housing body - see the attached pictures. it's much thicker for FR-301, because back side of the new heating element of FR-301 is longer than the old heating element of FR-300 and the new thicker flange accounts for that. (that means the 4 screws on FR-301 that keeps it in place are different, i.e. longer too. other than that the plastic housing of FR-300 and FR-301 is the same - it has exact same part number as well between the two).

[matura713]

OK, after such thorough investigation from my side, I want to make the final conclusion as separate post:

0. if temperature feedback of the new heating element of FR-301 (see point III. ) is compatible with the control board in FR-300 then conversion of FR-300 to FR-301 is not only possible, but it seems it's without any loss of features compared to retail FR-301 unit.

I. motor is different between FR-300 and FR-301 and i believe that's actually the main reason why FR-301 control board is different rather than the concern mentioned in point 0. however, that doesn't matter feature-wise for FR-300 to FR-301 conversion, because both motors give: "Vacuum Pressure: 81 kPa (610mmHg)" and "Suction flow: 11 L/m"

II. (see the post above) The only part not available for purchase (at the time of writing this) is different "flange" between of  FR-300 and FR-301. however, maybe, that's not real limitation (rather than cosmetic one) as the front part (more geometrically complex) of the 2 flanges is the same and thickness difference can potentially be compensated with simple solution like washers/spacers, etc.

III. new "Heating element" for FR-301:
* part number A5047 for USA (120V)
* part number A5049 for Europe (220-240V)
* Price: respectively USD 50 or EUR 50 without taxes, i.e. in Europe that mean something like 55-60 EUR total, i guess similarly in the USA retail price will be 55-60 USD with all taxes.

IV. "Filter pipe assembly" for FR-301, 2 options to buy it:
* as single set with part number B5185 (that's the cheaper option, USD 20)
* as 5 separate parts from which it consists ( 1 - "Ceramic paper filter-L" #A5044, 2- "Pre-filter" #B5104, 3 - "Front holder" #A5030, "Filter holder" #A5031 , 5 - "Filter pipe" #B5194)

V. "Back holder" for FR-301 part number B5195, price: USD 5

VI. Heating "Element Cover" for FR-301 part number B5193, price: USD 20

VII. "Nozzle wrench" for FR-301 part number B5106, USD 20

VIII. "Standard nozzle for FR-301" part number N61-08 or any other N61 nozzle of your choice, price: USD 20

[DC1MC]

Quick question form a newbie (in advanced desoldering tools): is this tool suitable for troughhole components and does it have enough power for power electronics stuff ( thick pins connected to large copper planes and so on) ?

And if yes, how much does it cost and where can I get it for a good price in DE/EU ?

 Cheers,
 DC1MC

 

[simone.pignatti]

Quick question form a newbie (in advanced desoldering tools): is this tool suitable for troughhole components and does it have enough power for power electronics stuff ( thick pins connected to large copper planes and so on) ?

And if yes, how much does it cost and where can I get it for a good price in DE/EU ?

 Cheers,
 DC1MC

 

This is a good question since it is hard to advice the right desoldering tool without seeing the PWB.
The most important is the heat transfer capability.
We have the FR301 in stock but we would like to get some images about your application first.
We send you a PM.
Thanks.

[Ray.B]

say simone.pignatti

 Ray.B  say do you work for a supply company (Hakko)?  Since you have parts availability, I was wondering if you could take pictures of the control boards of the FR-300 and the FR-301.  Then the different front flanges between the two units.  Also, in the documentation for the
FR-300 and the FR-301 the shows the nozzle changing tool is B5015 for both the units, but on the website its the B5106.  On the last page of the FR-301 instruction manual the "flange" is shown as a part of the "joint cover" with a part number B5198 for the flange.  It sounds like Hakko hasn't got all of their part numbers all straightened out on the newer FR-301, also some of the parts on the website show FR4101 parts for FR-301 listings.  I was wondering if someone needs to call American Hakko or Hakko direct to get the people in the know.  Anyway like I said before Hakko should provide a easy upgrade path to loyal Hakko customers.  The people on the phone when I talked to them were very friendly and happy to help when I had the parts list from the website.  We need to talk to someone that has knowledge about what will work with what.  Later Ray.B

[matura713]

take pictures of the control boards of the FR-300 and the FR-301

FYI, pictures of FR-300 control board are available everywhere including here, for example:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-05-desoldering-iron-120v-gt-240v/msg1309916/#msg1309916

so, main question at least to me regarding FR-301 board is: does it still use simple LM2903 dual comparator for temp control (with calibration pot) or some new fancy micro-controller?

Hakko FR-301 leaflet has only one out of 5 new features listed (the other 4 are all due to new N61 nozzles and the heating element compatible with N61 nozzles) that could suggest not as simple temp control as that on FR-300:

High-Precision Temperature Control

however, that could be due to better sensor in the heating element, not more intelligent control board.

Other than that the rest of control board seems irrelevant to me, because FR-300 and FR-301 heating elements need same power supply and motor power supply on FR-300 is done with "capacitor dropper", which will be different for the motor in retail FR-301 unit,  that runs on 120V or 220-240V.

the different front flanges between the two units.

you can see the pictures of the 2 flanges I posted few posts above. I doubt someone will be able to make better pictures (any time soon), because those 2 parts are not sold anywhere.

Also, if 3-4 years later after FR-300 release you still can not purchase separately flange for it, then I doubt it will be any different for FR-301 and that part simply won't be sold separately.

IMHO, as I already mentioned, that I don't see as critical, especially for initial conversion - you can compensate the thickness difference with installing spacers between the housing body and your FR-300 flange. As far as how long spacer to use, that's easy to estimate with measuring the difference in length between back side of FR-300 and FR-301 heating elements.

Also, another even better clue is "Front holder" (B5030) for FR-301 - when installed it need to cover exactly the part of back side of FR-301 heating element that goes inside the "Filter pipe" (B5194) - that allows you to exactly know how far FR-300 flange, with mounted FR-301 heating element on it, needs to be moved away from the housing body.

So, plenty of way to use FR-300 flange and adjust it with spacers - most important is that FR-300 flange front side is compatible with the new heating element, because the 3 mounting parts are the same ("Movable joint" #B5063, "Wave spring" #B5064, "Joint cover" #B5062).

Also, in the documentation for the FR-300 and the FR-301 the shows the nozzle changing tool is B5015 for both the units, but on the website its the B5106...
....
also some of the parts on the website show FR4101 parts for FR-301 listings.

No any mystery or question here. B5106 is correct as well in general any FR410 parts related to the nozzles and Heating "Element Cover", tips changing, etc are correct, because N61 nozzles that FR-301 uses, are the one FR410 is using for years - hence the same parts. So, almost all parts I listed as difference between FR-301 and FR-300 are actually FR410 parts - that's why I guess all those parts are available for purchase at the moment - as FR410 spare parts and that's why FR-301 flange is exception - as it's not FR410 spare part.

[matura713]

BTW, even FR-301 manual has the exact same calibration procedure as FR-300, on pictures of FR-301 it looks like the hole where the pot is located is like empty, but on FR-300 is so clearly visible - pictures attached. that's kind of strange.

[Ray.B]

matura713

Ray.B  from my last post on "flanges" which may be put on the next page, well I found the missing "flange".  On the  6: Maintance section under Replacing the Heating Element (heating core) they point out the "Flange" where you take out two screws to separate the case halfs.
The part is listed (as per my last post), 8: Replacement Parts/ Options     Item 4, B5198, Flange, with screws.  The part is available as a replacement part, which would make sense that it is where their is lots wear and tear in replacing the Heating Element.

Like I said in my last post, you may need to get the hard to find parts directly from American Hakko/ Hakko because they are not in the surplus market. 
 Later Ray.B 

[matura713]

...B5198 ... you may need to get the hard to find parts directly from American Hakko/ Hakko

my point is that exact part is not sold in any online shop of American Hakko/ Hakko (at least at the moment), I already checked them all. so, from my point of view, it's simply not available even directly from Hakko.

Feel free to prove me wrong...

However, contrary to B5198 all other parts are available and in stock from multiple sources, not a problem at all to acquire them.

In any way, B5198 is not critically important, it's more cosmetic thing, what's the main question is what is on FR-301 control board to do the temperature control - if it's LM2903 (or similar IC) or something fancy.

[EDIT] The price of all needed parts for conversion attempt is so close to buying retail  FR-301 unit, that even if such conversion is possible but gives loss of features (e.g. FR-301 control board provides more intelligent temperature control than using something like LM2903), then IMHO it just doesn't worth to do it.

[0.01C]

I bought a Hakko FR301 from Rakuten.com at JPN18900/USD180.

[matura713]

I bought a Hakko FR301 from Rakuten.com at JPN18900/USD180

Congratulations, I purchased my FR300 from there, but at the end it was not really cheaper, because shipping from Japan to Europe/USA is like additional USD 60-70 and then I needed to pay import taxed. so, I end up with USD 300 as total (or about additional USD 120 in shipping costs and taxes). Plus the cost of 220V to 100V transformer to use it in Europe (which is another USD 40) - it's really not cheaper (at least if you're in Europe/USA)!!

anyway, we are waiting to "not turn it on, but take it apart". yes, joke aside, if you open it and make pictures of the board inside will be greatly appreciated - similar to posts here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-05-desoldering-iron-120v-gt-240v/msg1309916/#msg1309916

and how to take it apart is very easy and here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-gun-teardown/

[DC1MC]

It seems that @simone.pignatti is MIA  , I send him some pictures by request to advise me if this tool is suitable for power components desoldering. No answer so far but I'm sure that there are few knowledgeable people in this thread so I'll post them here as well, with the question: what unsoldering tool is the best for the trough-hole components, especially power electronics soldered to hi surface copper planes and hole enforcer tubes.

 Many thanks,
 DC1MC

[simone.pignatti]

It seems that @simone.pignatti is MIA  , I send him some pictures by request to advise me if this tool is suitable for power components desoldering. No answer so far but I'm sure that there are few knowledgeable people in this thread so I'll post them here as well, with the question: what unsoldering tool is the best for the trough-hole components, especially power electronics soldered to hi surface copper planes and hole enforcer tubes.

 Many thanks,
 DC1MC

Hello, sorry for not replying I was traveling to UK ... actually in hotel room now typing.
I took a look at you pics and it seems the FR-301 may be not powerful enough, also for the coil.
What process of soldering do you use?
FR-400 and FR-410 can do the job but they are not at the same price tag.

[DC1MC]

Hi, the soldering process it's actually not known to me, I just have to deal with the end result, I wanted a tool that was having enough oompph to dislodge pins connected to copper planes, even if the examples were a bit to the max , but for example I have a standard 14 DIP package with 2-3 consecutive pins connected to a large ground plane, what about this situation, will 301 be able to suck them clean ? Or really we need a more powerful tool ?

 Cheers and thanks for the answer,
 DC1MC 

[0.01C]

It seems that @simone.pignatti is MIA  , I send him some pictures by request to advise me if this tool is suitable for power components desoldering. No answer so far but I'm sure that there are few knowledgeable people in this thread so I'll post them here as well, with the question: what unsoldering tool is the best for the trough-hole components, especially power electronics soldered to hi surface copper planes and hole enforcer tubes.

 Many thanks,
 DC1MC

Hello, sorry for not replying I was traveling to UK ... actually in hotel room now typing.
I took a look at you pics and it seems the FR-301 may be not powerful enough, also for the coil.
What process of soldering do you use?
FR-400 and FR-410 can do the job but they are not at the same price tag.

You can increase the ac voltage to 120V for increase the power from 100W to 140W.

[DC1MC]

Could it be that FR-410 has more thermal mass, or is some other difference, why will be suitable more than 301 ?

[0.01C]

But I don’t know if this can increase the heat core power.

[matura713]

@DC1MC

I think best is to watch countless videos of FR-808 and FR-300 (the 2 previous generations) in action on YouTube and make conclusions for yourself about the performance:



Also there are Chinese one that are much cheaper, you can watch Dave's review of such tool on his EEVblog channel:



or this one:



and now there are countless such Chinese in portable or station size.

Honestly, my only motivation to get FR-300 was that Hakko supported FR-808 for over 10 years, while for the Chinese tools it's kind of hard or in some cases even not impossible to get spare parts like nozzles, filters, etc. that needs to be changed frequently.

So, my calculation was that for 10 years FR-300 will paid up. However, you see how Hakko f***ed their FR-300 users, essentially killing the tool only after 3 years. So, if they plan the same life for FR-301, then at this point buying cheap Chinese one that can be used more or less as disposable unit will be I guess better use of your money. Maybe as vacuum and power there are Chinese stations even on par with FR-400 and FR-410...

[matura713]

Could it be that FR-410 has more thermal mass, or is some other difference, why will be suitable more than 301 ?

FR-410 has more suction power than FR-300/FR-301 (11L/min) as well: "Suction flow: 15L/min"

You can increase the ac voltage to 120V for increase the power from 100W to 140W.

I think that will fry the heating element (or significantly shorten its life), because Hakko offer different heating elements for 100V (Japan), 120V (USA), etc. So, I don't believe it's very safe for example to use 100V heating element of the Japan version of the tool with 120V (i.e. USA mains).

[EDIT] actually they have separate heating element even for 127V - I don't know where there is such mains - see the attachment.

[I_Code_4_Hugs]

The Hakko YouTube channel only has < 2k subs but here's the latest video posted today (23-MAR-2018) on the 410, 400, and 301:

https://youtu.be/PxVPZNgoQms

The 301 info starts here:

https://youtu.be/PxVPZNgoQms?t=540

-Hugs

[ajb]

...B5198 ... you may need to get the hard to find parts directly from American Hakko/ Hakko

my point is that exact part is not sold in any online shop of American Hakko/ Hakko (at least at the moment), I already checked them all. so, from my point of view, it's simply not available even directly from Hakko.

Feel free to prove me wrong...

Just because it's not listed doesn't mean it's not available--if anything it just means it's not a commonly replaced part.  The same part for the FR-300 isn't listed anywhere on Hakko's site, but I've actually replaced it on my unit after it got dropped.  I just had to put in a request with a Hakko dealer and wait a few weeks for it to ship from Japan.  Cost me six bucks.

[BravoV]

...B5198 ... you may need to get the hard to find parts directly from American Hakko/ Hakko

my point is that exact part is not sold in any online shop of American Hakko/ Hakko (at least at the moment), I already checked them all. so, from my point of view, it's simply not available even directly from Hakko.

Feel free to prove me wrong...

Just because it's not listed doesn't mean it's not available--if anything it just means it's not a commonly replaced part.  The same part for the FR-300 isn't listed anywhere on Hakko's site, but I've actually replaced it on my unit after it got dropped.  I just had to put in a request with a Hakko dealer and wait a few weeks for it to ship from Japan.  Cost me six bucks.

+1, Hakko is well known to keep producing parts even their products are long discontinued. 


Last year when I bought a NOS "ancient" Hakko 474 (Discussed -> HERE), all parts for that 474 are still available from my local authorized Hakko distributor, of course, sometimes when they run out of stock, all I need is wait for few weeks for them to source it from Japan, thats all.

Decades aged suction valve plate that was disintegrated into this ....


The new replacement valve plate part, watch the datecode.


... and after replaced with above. 



Also bought few parts to refresh the 474 as mine is really old, watch the datecodes too here.

[matura713]

@I_Code_4_Hugs: thank you for the video, but am i the only one who thinks the video is terrible?

@ajb : ok, then, please, let me know, where exactly and how to put request for B5198 part? Or even do it yourself and sell it on profit on eBay or something...

@BravoV : the pictures of the part numbers you posted are available everywhere I checked....so, not only those parts are off-topic for the discussion here (not FR-301 parts), but they obviously are something that could only be called "widely-available" parts and that has to be, simply because they are still used in Hakko products which "support period" is not expired (i.e. they are common parts for several products and at least one of them is still in its "support period").

In FR-300 announcement that is discontinued is clearly stated when exactly Hakko will stop supporting it and produce spare parts for it. Also, FR-808 had over 3 times the support period of FR-300. so, sorry, but i don't really get your point, as i don't see any indication that several years from now FR-300 can be serviced with easily available spare parts. After all it had lifetime over 3 times shorter than FR-808 and when you say ""ancient" Hakko 474" - i don't know when Hakko 474 was released, but I don't think it is older (or much older) than FR-808.

[EDIT] Actually, when Hakko released FR-300 they even effectively extended the support for the old FR-808 in terms of "nozzle tips", because new nozzles for FR-300 are compatible with FR-808. So, maybe, FR-300 is Hakko product with the shortest lifetime.

[BravoV]

After all it had lifetime over 3 times shorter than FR-808 and when you say ""ancient" Hakko 474" - i don't know when Hakko 474 was released, but I don't think it is older (or much older) than FR-808.

When you see Hakko naming scheme, if it has alphabet prefixes, like FR,FX,FM,FE and etc, means they're quite recent, "ancient" ones have plain numeric numbers only, e.g: 936, 850 and etc.

Fyi, few "ancient" legendary Hakko products like 936, 850 and 470 are heavily cloned until today.

Also recent rising Chinese brands like Quick, Aoyue etc, these companies are basically started their business by cloning Hakko products back in early 2000, the popular 936 for example. And others too designed most of their popular products by copying Hakko's designs namely hot air and desoldering gun.

Btw, the word "ancient" I mean here is probably these were 1st introduced at early 90s.

[ajb]

@ajb : ok, then, please, let me know, where exactly and how to put request for B5198 part? Or even do it yourself and sell it on profit on eBay or something...

I don't know why you're so hung up on this, but I bought it from TEquipment.net.  I don't remember if I used their quote request form or just sent them an email, but it really wasn't hard.  I'm sure any authorized Hakko dealer can get it for you, although the ones that regularly sell parts will probably be the most helpful.  If you really can't be bothered to email a dealer yourself I'll gladly sell you one for US$106 (shipping extra).

[gongstudios]

Could be interested in a 220 V edition - located in EU.

[agmbass]

Hi everybody !
I made a video of the FR 300 and the FR 301 ... just a quick look.

https://youtu.be/qiCTP9Nq2bI

[hrbngr]

agmbass,

thanks for the video. what is your opinion of the 301 so far? Any improvement over the 300?

[matura713]

I made a video of the FR 300 and the FR 301 ... just a quick look.

Please, could you measure the thickness of the black piece of plastic at the front of the gun, the so-called "flange" that is different between FR-300 and FR-301 and post the result here.

Also, any chance in the spirit of EEVBlog "don't turn it on, take it apart" to open it and make pictures of the board inside like the previous posts for FR-300 here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-05-desoldering-iron-120v-gt-240v/msg1309916/#msg1309916

and the following one that shows how it's opened in an easy way:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-gun-teardown/

thank you!

[agmbass]

Pictures of the 300 and 301 flange

[matura713]

Pictures of the 300 and 301 flange

thank you!! so, it's only 4.72mm difference - it shouldn't be that difficult to be able to use fr300 flange and compensate that difference with washers/spacers, etc.

at least for me the last open question is: how fr301 temperature control is done - with LM2903 dual comparator (or similar simple solution) like fr300 is doing it or something else.

[Ray.B]

Hi Guys

    Ray.B here, I found on the Hakko website a picture of the old FR-300 and the new FR-301 circuit boards (PWB).  I attached the pictures of the b5011 for the FR-300 and the B5189 for the FR-301.  The pictures look almost the same except for the silk screening of the
name FR-300 and FR-301 on the board.  When the person that was commenting on the temperature adjustment wasn't visable in the adjustment hole.  I believe that they were looking at the pictures on the website, and the lighting wasn't good to see in the hole clearly. 
    Well on the circuit board differences, I think their are not very or any changes on the boards except the names.  You may be able to go on the Hakko website and get a magnified picture of the boards.

[matura713]

I think they are not very or any changes on the boards except the names.

based on the pictures, I think the same, i.e. that there is no any (significant) change except the name on the silk-screen.

actually, no change in the *motor power supply* circuit makes perfect sense, because in FR300 the *capacitor dropper* for voltage adjustment is mounted on the FR300 motor itself, not on the PCB. so,the line voltage direct drive motor in FR301 requires no any change on the PCB.

I had doubts about the *temperature control* circuit, because one of the new FR301 features stated is "High-Precision Temperature Control", which could be due to better heating element (e.g. better sensor in it, the new nozzles, etc) or some change on the PCB. apparently, from the picture it's the same good old *LM2903 dual comparator* circuit.

That's all more than a good news: conversion from FR300 to FR301 is not only possible, but without any loss of features. It also will be very easy to be done if the B5189 flange is easily available for purchase, if not then FR300 flange needs to be used with some spacer/washers and longer screws based on the 2 posts above yours.

[matura713]

just for completeness:

* good resolution pictures of FR-300 PCB are here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-05-desoldering-iron-120v-gt-240v/msg1309916/#msg1309916

* best available resolution picture of FR-301 PCB is attached (in fact good enough that's possible to read "2903" on the dual comparator chip, i.e. same as FR-300)

[Sam44492]

Hi, the soldering process it's actually not known to me, I just have to deal with the end result, I wanted a tool that was having enough oompph to dislodge pins connected to copper planes, even if the examples were a bit to the max , but for example I have a standard 14 DIP package with 2-3 consecutive pins connected to a large ground plane, what about this situation, will 301 be able to suck them clean ? Or really we need a more powerful tool ?

 Cheers and thanks for the answer,
 DC1MC

Hello. I am new to this forum and wanted to see reviews of this new tool.
But while I was browsing, I discovered this helpful community, and a discount code.
Thank you all for links to the videos and the specs.

According to this video from 1982, you just need 1 hand to hold your tool, your 2nd hand to hold your iron on the other side, and your 3rd and 4th hands to hold your board up.

https://youtu.be/e8KRPFOD1RE?t=6m4s

[matura713]

[REQUEST]:

Anyone with FR-301, please, measure the diameter of, how to call it, "the hole in the barrel" of your FR-301.

I am attaching such picture of FR-300 to make it clear what i mean. Thank you!

[agmbass]

Do you mean this ?

[matura713]

Do you mean this ?

yes, thank you!!  There is typing error in English version of the PDF manual for FR301, where for housing same B5021 part as for FR300 is listed. However, in the Japanese version of the PDF the correct part number B5196 is listed. So, that hole is the only significant difference I can identify between the 2. Basically, FR300 housing should be convertable to FR301 one with extending this hole. IMHO, 13.5mm is unnecessarily big, everything over 12mm should work, because such size will allow part A5030 (the "front holder") to fit  - the diameter of the front part of the "front holder" is 12mm. So, for making FR300 housing compatible with FR301, I would go for something like a little over 12mm (e.g. 12.5mm) that way FR300 housing should be still usable for FR300 and at the same time compatible with FR301 - it becomes 2 in 1. BTW, the hole is 10mm on FR300 housing.

[matura713]

I want to report that I successfully converted my FR-300 to FR-301, as per all the information that was discussed here, i.e. with keeping the FR-300 flange and extend it with brass spacers and metal washers.

My biggest surprise was how easy and straight-forward it was - it took me less than 15 minutes of work, but that's just due to the long discussion here and as result of that I was very well prepared.

Costs are tremendous though: 150 USD for the parts, which is over 50% of brand new FR-301 in the USA.

So, IMHO one of the few scenarios in which it's not pointless (from financial point) to do it, is if your FR-300 heating element has failed - then investing in new FR-300 heating element would be waste of money and it's better to buy FR-301 heating element and do the conversion.

Also, if you want FR-301 and you're in places like the USA or Japan, it's better to sell your FR-300, add some money and buy brand new FR-301 instead pay 150 USD and do all the work involved in converting your old FR-300.

In my case it has more value in doing the conversion, because first of all it was cool project, second of all in Europe, FR-301 is very expensive - the only realistic way to buy it, is from USA or Japan (some eBay sellers), but then the custom duties come in place. So, with buying parts - no custom duties and relatively low shipping costs as the parts are small and not heavy. Another reason is that all my FR-300 nozzles were worn out and I did not want to invest in buying more legacy nozzles.

[Ray.B]

To ajb

ajb : I would suggest that you put request for B5198 part. I'm sure any authorized Hakko dealer can get it for you.  I have bought the newer FR-301 from American Hakko and a bunch of soldering tips,  in

California.  The people that man the phones are very helpfull in ordering parts, these are the actual Hakko company stores, not the online stores like TEquipment.net.  I was wondering if you were in the UK,

that people were having problems dealing with in Hakko dealer in England, I would suggest the one in Ireland.  Like matura713 said that it might take a few weeks to get the B5198, the screws were listed in

the parts list that is for the FR-301.  With the forces that are put on the Flange B5198, I would strongly suggest that you replace the FR-300 Flange with the FR-301 Flange.  Especially if you are using a

soldering iron holder, or doing lots of desoldering.  The Flange would be supported all around the back of the hot heating element, not just the four screws which could pull out of the case, opps.  The screws

with washers would be OK until the new Flange got there.  The screws and washers are a very weak spot, use what the engineers designed, it shouldn't cost that much its plastic. Later Ray.B

[okney1lz]

Was looking a 204/205, but went with the new 301.

Are we guessing that the 204/205 will get the newer nozzle design sooner than later?

My thought was, better to have something of a newer design,  that will be supported for longer. That and the 301 nozzles ar a bit cheaper.

[matura713]

With the forces that are put on the Flange B5198, I would strongly suggest that you replace the FR-300 Flange with the FR-301 Flange.  Especially if you are using a soldering iron holder, or doing lots of desoldering.  The Flange would be supported all around the back of the hot heating element, not just the four screws which could pull out of the case, opps.

of course, if it's possible to get the original flange part B5198 would be the best option... However, B5198 makes contact with the case only on the points of the 4 screws - all 4 of its sides are several millimeters away from the case - you can look at any picture of FR-301 to see that. So, I don't agree with your statement - it makes sense in general case, but even the original flange part number B5198 is not designed in such way. In fact there is probably good reason why Hakko made the flange not touch the case on the sides, but only on the 4 screw points.

[Paul Fawcett]

Hey all,

I seem to have the opposite problem -- I have an FR300 with a broken flange... and as far as I can tell there is no replacement part available.   Any opinions on whether the (thicker) B5198 flange for the FR301 will work with the FR300 innards, or would I have to replace the heating element and/or element cover as well?   I sure hope there's an option here!

Cheers,

Paul

[mr.fabe]

Hey all,

I seem to have the opposite problem -- I have an FR300 with a broken flange... and as far as I can tell there is no replacement part available.   Any opinions on whether the (thicker) B5198 flange for the FR301 will work with the FR300 innards, or would I have to replace the heating element and/or element cover as well?   I sure hope there's an option here!

Cheers,

Paul

Have you contacted HakkoUSA for parts availability?  They have FR-300 repair parts listed on their site and can probably locate what your looking for.

[Reiniku]

Is the FR-301 still the defacto desoldering gun in its price range or are there other alternatives at this point?

[Dd]

Reiniku
I'm quite happy with FR-301 for hobby use. For hardcore service operation I'd prefer desktop series (4xx?) for their durability.
I bought it from Japan so it was under 200 USD.

Some info from Hakko Japan:
The motor is not available by itself, and it is an integral part of 'Pump Assembly'
which is available for repair purpose by distributors who had repair training and
got authorized by Hakko.

[floston.paradise]

Hello
Can someone help me modify the FR-301 from 100V to 220-230V?
In addition to replacing the resistor from 10 ohms to 160 ohms, what else needs to be done?
ps It is clear that it will be necessary to replace the a heating element with A5049

[dtremit]

Alternatively — is there any reason a 100v FR-301 wouldn't work well on a step down transformer?

Given current exchange rates the 100v Japanese model is about half the price of the US model, even when shipping is factored in.

I happen to have some other possible uses for 120v->100v transformers, though it seems you'd still come out ahead even with the transformer cost factored in.

(Incidentally, FR-410 is available at a similar discount — about $575 including shipping.)

[Southerner]

Reiniku
I'm quite happy with FR-301 for hobby use. For hardcore service operation I'd prefer desktop series (4xx?) for their durability.
I bought it from Japan so it was under 200 USD.

What is needed to convert the Japanese FR301 from 100V to 120v?  I have seen comments that it can just be used on 120v but am curious what is needed to make it for 120v?
Thank you.

[rernexy]

a few weeks back I bought a Japanese FR-301 and a Australia (240V) to Japanese (100V) stepdown transformer. Still way in front relative to the Australian retail prices, which were $900 to $1000. I got the stepdown from "tortech" here in Aus.

FWIW tortech has some views regarding 240V stepdown:

One from the page https://www.tortech.com.au/product/voltage-converters/step-down/economy/economy-japanese-step-down-transformer/

Important note: Why you should not use a USA stepdown for Japanese appliances: Contrary to advice from others - running your Japanese device on a USA rated stepdown transformer will eventually destroy your Japanese device! Most Japanese equipment runs at 100v and by using Japanese appliance on a 110/120v you will encounter overvoltage. This overvoltage can deteriorate your appliance until it will stop functioning correctly.

Another on the page https://www.tortech.com.au/general-faqs/ for the question "I noticed your American voltage converters say 110 Volts, but my equipment is rated at 120 Volts. Will it still work?"

 

[rsjsouza]

I use my FR301 with a 120-100V autotransformer with zero problems. I want this tool to last me a very long time, thus I won't risk by running it at 20% more nominal voltage.

[yamhill]

I just ordered a 301 from Japan and plan to use a transformer to adjust the voltage for use in the USA.

I'm curious, for those that can better discern the workings of the FR301 control board, from the picture -- with the pen marks for the voltage -- I'm wondering how many thing change on the board or in the whole unit with the "pen mark".

[rsjsouza]

I suspect that R16/R17 should be changed to something slightly higher to avoid stressing C2 with overvoltage - maybe a pair of 20 or 22kΩ.

Also, as someone else hinted here, R20 might require a 20% increase.

I can't tell what the box capacitor C15 is doing, but if it is stepping down voltage, it might also require change to increase its reactance.

Naturally, that assumes the pump connected to CN7/CN8 is actually after a voltage limiting device. Otherwise, it will be subjected to overvoltage. One thing I know is the pump works with the heater unpowered.