JBC rework & soldering setup vs. Hakko rework & soldering setup.

[KL27x]

^ I have Hakko wool from 2012 and from 2015, and the difference is the same as you describe.

I highly doubt this is "fake" Hakko brass wool. I highly doubt Hakko manufactures their own brass wool to a specific Hakko family recipe. They probably buy it from someone else, and that plant had to replace worn out tooling/machinery or Hakko changed suppliers.

[plazma]

If you get steel wool with your JBC you should discard it. It destroys the tips in few minutes. Brass wool is fine.

[nanofrog]

I highly doubt Hakko manufactures their own brass wool to a specific Hakko family recipe. They probably buy it from someone else, and that plant had to replace worn out tooling/machinery or Hakko changed suppliers.

No idea where they're getting it from, but it is made in Japan, not China, as is the case with Weller's wools.

If you get steel wool with your JBC you should discard it. It destroys the tips in few minutes. Brass wool is fine.

FWIW, Weller offers both brass and stainless steel. Like you however, I won't touch the stainless version due to faster wearing of the tips. I'd rather use tip tinner if it gets really nasty as it's not frequent (flux in it is quite aggressive).

[vze1lryy]

Louis: Do you regularly use the FM-2032 in your rework/soldering? Or do you only find it useful once in a while?

I've watched a lot of your videos, but it is often hard to tell which iron you are using due to the magnification.

The 2032 is very handy with the T30-KN tip for a lot of stuff, and the T30-I is the only tip I can use for very small connections. A different iron isn't even an option for really tiny connectors.

Most of the time the 2027 with a T15-JS02 tip will do. It will work as a large tip if you use the elbow, it will work as a tiny tip if you use the tip.