Looking for a router with a novelty – it has to work

[Lightages]

Do you have an old computer lying around that has WIFI of some sort? Have a look at PFSense. If your computer is still reliable then this is a great platform.
https://www.pfsense.org/

[Simon]

I just have my PC on the ethernet overpower connection and my laptop uses the Wi-Fi along with my mobile phone. Nothing that complicated really. Franking machine has a USB port so I plug it into my laptop and I assume the software in the computer creates a virtual phone line for the franking machine to communicate with. I have a 50-50 success rate with the franking machine making a connection. It does seem to get worse when I'm having other Internet slowdowns.

I don't know if it's related to the computer or my connection but YouTube can be variable it's been working a lot better lately. But if I want to listen to the BBC via the Internet live is a problem but catch up staff is not. So I don't know what the problem is. It could be a dicky line which nobody wants to admit to or it could be my router is misfiring. I'm not really asking that much of it I am the only one in the house using it. When I spoke to the phone company this evening they said that they were picking up thousands of errors on my connection. Obviously they won't admit to it being the line. So if I am going to play along with them and by another router I'd like to buy something that is good that works and that I like.

[Simon]

Do you have an old computer lying around that has WIFI of some sort? Have a look at PFSense. If your computer is still reliable then this is a great platform.
https://www.pfsense.org/

I'm not going to start setting up additional PCs just to run an Internet connection. I'm not really sure what that project darts other than be a firewall solution. I don't particularly need a firewall I just want a router which works and more importantly a router and Wi-Fi dongle solution which works as so far while the router may have been okay Wi-Fi dongle is are absolutely crap so I've ended up with ethernet over Power. Fortunately my laptop seems to work with Wi-Fi but then there seems to be written legally little problem somewhere that is causing a problem for my franking machine usually when the Internet speed is a bit low anyway. It will also be nice to be able to watch YouTube and listen to live radio without any stuttering, and by stuttering when it comes to the BBC that means seconds at a time without any audio despite the fact it only radio. I couldn't watch live TV on this Internet connection if I wanted to. Hopefully fibre-optic will get here one day

[_Andrew_]

Not just things switching on and of disturbing EoP. Power quality is over the last 15 years is becoming a far greater issue. With ever more devices introducing active harmonic components it can have all sorts of undesirable effects.

Compact fluorescent bulbs, Led lamps, inverter microwaves, switch mode power supplies, inverter motor speed controllers going in to just about everything.....

[Psi]

Stay way from the following brands, no exceptions
TP-LINK
D-Link
Tenda
SMC



The following brands i have used before with no issues related to WIFI.
CISCO
Linksys
Netgear
DrayTek


*List not in any order

[SL4P]

Notwithstanding the need for more configuration, the most flexible approach is to use separate modem, router and access points.
Some newbies may get confused with bridge mode and NATting, but the end result is a modular, easy to diagnose solution with each device doing what does best - and individual elements can be upgraded separately.

[AF6LJ]

Notwithstanding the need for more configuration, the most flexible approach is to use separate modem, router and access points.
Some newbies may get confused with bridge mode and NATting, but the end result is a modular, easy to diagnose solution with each device doing what does best - and individual elements can be upgraded separately.

I have to agree; the network here is built that way.
It starts out with;
A dedicated castoff PC running Smoothwall firewall / router software.
A decent Ethernet switch follows that.
When we need wireless connectivity there is a higher end Netgear wireless router that sees little use I might point out. The Netgear only gets turned on when neede.
Everything else including printers gets hard wired.

One last comment;
In regards to quality of life, people seem to be happier on the whole if you have to go to a separate room for the computer, people actually talk to each other at the supper table.

[TheSteve]

I quite like my Netgear R7000 running Tomato shibby. It has a 512gig ssd connected that it shares locally. It also handles all torrent upload/downloads without breaking a sweat.

[Marco]

Apparently that's what is in the Lenovo's too. Internet forums are full of people complaining about dropped connections on those things.

The infuriating thing was that the original Windows 8 drivers which shipped with Windows were fine, but everything after that kept disconnecting. So I reverted it, cursed a bit at the fact that this was pointed out to Intel a million times and they still didn't revert to the old working code and forgot about it. Then Windows 8.1 rolls around and the driver model changed and I could only use drivers in which Intel persisted to ship broken code.

In short, Centrino Wifi chipsets, not even once. There's something fundamentally broken with that team at Intel, if it works it's by accident. Avoid.

[GreyWoolfe]

Asus any good ?: http://www.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/products/11867-asus-rt-n66u/

i have this router and I am pleased with it.  I am using it about 4 months now.  I have a 35 Mbps connection and have typical daytime speeds right at 35 Mbps, the evenings don't slow down much.  I am using the 2.4 Gig connection.  I also live in a quiet subdivision and there are only a couple of Wi-Fi networks within range.

[Simon]

I don't want seperate devices I'm a below aveage home user. I just want my connection to work and I'm being told it's my routers fault.

The biggest problem with tp link I have is the stupidshit wifi donlgles

[Simon]

Asus any good ?: http://www.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/products/11867-asus-rt-n66u/

i have this router and I am pleased with it.  I am using it about 4 months now.  I have a 35 Mbps connection and have typical daytime speeds right at 35 Mbps, the evenings don't slow down much.  I am using the 2.4 Gig connection.  I also live in a quiet subdivision and there are only a couple of Wi-Fi networks within range.

i have to share with over 10 people so a free channel just does not exist, usually 3-5 people are on the same band and no doubt all their equipment is on autopilot so trying to find a free band and stick to it will be pointless.

[PlainName]

I don't want seperate devicesI'm abew aveage home user. I just want my connection to work ad I'm veng told it's my routers fault.

Ever considered that "I don't want seperate devicesI'm abew aveage home user" is not compatible with " I just want my connection to work"? Imagine if some electronics 'average home user' tried that on you - "I don't want to replace my PoS flaky test leads; I just want it to work."

[Simon]

I don't want seperate devicesI'm abew aveage home user. I just want my connection to work ad I'm veng told it's my routers fault.

Ever considered that "I don't want seperate devicesI'm abew aveage home user" is not compatible with " I just want my connection to work"? Imagine if some electronics 'average home user' tried that on you - "I don't want to replace my PoS flaky test leads; I just want it to work."

I don't think the vast majority of equipment would be single device/multifunctional if the concept does not work. On the whole i have not hat problems and it is still in diubt that the router is the problem although it's companion dongles are crap. so i might as well change.

[Howardlong]

More of a general comment here: my business is very dependent on the Internet, so I have two lines from two providers, one is Virgin cable and the other is an ADSL line. I use a Draytek (supposedly handles automatic failover, never got that to work though, I have to manually failover) plus two additional APs all on 2.4GHz and 5GHz on appropriate channels across the 3 bed flat that's about 1000sq feet.

The biggest problem I ever faced has been the noise floor rising on 2.4GHz. The way I resolved this has been a mixture of CAT6 wired connections and filling in with the extra APs. Even running Ethernet over power lines is hit and miss I found, I have a box of associated wall warts to prove it.

The primary Virgin line, although impressive at over 150Mbps downstream, regrettably goes down about once a month at the moment, I don't know what Virgin is doing. It usually fixes itself magically, I've pretty much given up calling to flag the fault unless it lasts more than half a day.

Regarding WiFi on 5GHz, I find it frustratingly unreliable outside of the room the AP's in, it's no magic bullet.

In short, get an ISP backup, wire everything you can with CAT5/6 (I use the flat ethernet cable tucked into carpet edges between rooms so no hole drilling required), and swamp your location with APs.

[Psi]

If you have to compete with lots of other users on the band then maybe you should look for a higher power router.
Something that outputs 200mW instead of the usual 60mW

[wraper]

i have to share with over 10 people so a free channel just does not exist, usually 3-5 people are on the same band and no doubt all their equipment is on autopilot so trying to find a free band and stick to it will be pointless.

There is no router which will work decently in such conditions, even ultra expensive. Trying different channels is worth though, some will work better than others. Also, if you select "auto", very often that means channel 6 or something similar, if the most routers around are set to "auto" you will have a big trouble.

[Monkeh]

If you have to compete with lots of other users on the band then maybe you should look for a higher power router.
Something that outputs 200mW instead of the usual 60mW

We are not allowed such high transmit power levels.

[deephaven]

Have you looked at the WiFi channels with an analyser to see if they are indeed all occupied? You can get a smartphone app that will do this for you.

[hli]

Back in the yard I use ubiquiti wifi NanoBridge's AP's combined with Mikrotik router board (there are some poe managed switches as well). All of which I am very much happy with.

I too have heard only good words about the Mikrotik routers. They should be fairly fast and come with their RouterOS which allows for a flexible setup (e.g. see hAP access point . I don't own one, but I'm thinking of getting a RB2011UiAS-2HnD-IN because my old router (a WNR3500L with DD-WRT installed) is probably not fast enough for the fast internet connection I'm about to get (and Mikrotik even states the throughput you get on their routers). The prices seem very reasonable for what they provide.

[Marco]

If you have to compete with lots of other users on the band then maybe you should look for a higher power router.
Something that outputs 200mW instead of the usual 60mW

Helps with distance, but won't allow you to take a greater percentage of the timeslots AFAICS.

[SL4P]

I don't think the vast majority of equipment would be single device/multifunctional if the concept does not work...

Unrelated - but i think that's why they sell Camrys...
It's supposed to make it 'easy', but it doesn't do 'everything' very well.  They work fine, but are not a ute, truck, sports car, or limo.  A pedestrian choice for people that don't --- want to make the effort, or know what they need.

[Howardlong]

If you have to compete with lots of other users on the band then maybe you should look for a higher power router.
Something that outputs 200mW instead of the usual 60mW

Increasing power at the router is not reciprocal.

Just like there's an increased density of cellphone sites in higher demand urban locations, increasing your own AP density will help to combat interference from other co-channel APs which are raising you local noise floor.

[madires]

I've installed several dual band TP-Link routers running OpenWrt. Works great, no issues.

[SeanB]

If you are congested in the Wifi bands simply get a new router without wifi ( or turn it off), and wire the old wifi unit into bridge mode, and put some CAT6 cable to place it as close as possible to your main work area. If you need power to it use a second cable, and cut the power cord and use those 4 pairs as power leads so it will be close. High up and as close as possible, if it is on the floor in a cellar no work, and then all you are out is the new 10 pound Billion router, and a few metres of cable and 2 crimp on connectors, plus a screw to hold the darn thing up by the one hole.

Lose the Poor Orrid performance Equipment, either use a cable through the wall, or string it along a picture rail around the room to the PC.

As to Lenovo, the wireless performance can best be described as shyte, my one is always either connected via a cable, or I tether the phone to it and use that. Made no difference using the original Win7 drivers, or the ones that Debian uses for the chipset, it just is poor. If it connected and would stay connected for 10 minutes that would have been a miracle, even after turning off all encryption and leaving the router wide open ( and watching for the connections as well)  with the laptop sitting 1m away from it.

Might be better now, my sister's Lenovo connects to the Billion wireless reasonably well, and works well enough for her, with the scan only showing 5 local AP's around.