Most modern alternators have moved away from individual press fitted diodes to a pair of plates with the diodes as part of the plate in a pressed dimple, with a blob of epoxy holding the wire connection to it. 2 plates, one positive and one negative, made from aluminium and with the diode chips ( I would guess) soldered to the aluminium with a silver based braze join under the epoxy blob. Regulator will be fed with a separate moulded case 3 phase rectifier assembly, with the pressed steel leadout tabs being arranged so they can easily be assembled to the 3 diode centre connections, and with another tab that attaches it to the negative and thus the frame, and the positive plate that reaches the brush mounting area where the integrated brush and regulator is screwed in. Thus only 3 solder joins for the full assembly, the rest being either pressed in bolts, a crimped on Lucas style spade, test connector or the 2 spade connections for plugging in the lead on VW amongst others for the positive stud, with the negative being connected by direct bolting to the housing half. The alternator warning light is typically either a separate output from the voltage regulator, or a direct connection to the non grounded side of the rotor winding, so the battery voltage applied from the light bootstraps the alternator, otherwise they rely on remnant magnetism to provide an initial voltage to start the regulator.
Very easy for the alternator to fail and made the battery not charge, either the leads to the battery go high resistance ( as in over around 2 ohms) or go open circuit, or the diode pack goes short circuit on one half. Not going to show on the alternator warning light, but will not charge at all, or only at low current. Other faults are diodes going leaky, and discharging the battery. Again no symptoms or light. Generally on most alternators the diodes are actually transient suppressors as well, or at least will avalanche at around 30-50V in reverse, so as to provide load dump protection.
With a lot of more modern vehicles now the alternator no longer has a built in voltage regulator either, instead it has a connection to the ECU, which controls the rotor current and thus the charge voltage, and also the ECU drives the warning light, via the CAN bus connecting to the instrument cluster. the ECU disconnects the alternator during driving during hard acceleration, or during warm up, or while idling, so as to be able to reduce engine load and thus improve fuel economy, and only connects it and charges when there is excess energy or the battery voltage is dropping due to discharge, again for lowering fuel use. Also disconnects alternator when stop start is engaged ( along with the engine driven AC compressor) till the engine is running, again to reduce load on the starter.