No, I believe you're missing the point.
The problem is not that Metcal are 'roasting' their tips, but that you've become used to using a far lower temperature than the norm.
E: And I've just measured brand new Thermaltronics tips at 725F (385C in useful figures), and a well-aged STTC-125 at 695F (368C). Perfectly acceptable for lead-free and leaded.
I'm willing to consider that I am simply accustomed to a lower temperature.
I normally use Kester 44 60/40 leaded solder. The 44 flux is RA and wets amazingly well, maybe too well, and so yes I probably soldered at a temperature toward the low end.
I am finding that with lead free solder (AIM SAC305 with 209AXT flux) or with lead solder having a non-Rosin based no-clean flux (Kester 245), the higher temperatures are quite OK. I still think there is a lot of smoke but I suppose that is expected with lead-free. In fact I previously did not like the Kester 245 because I found it did not wet well at all, especially compared to the Kester 44. The elevated temperature of this iron seems to activate this flux much better and it wets quite well now. Go figure.
My preferred rosin-cored Kester 44 and Kester 285 solders do not fare well with the temperature of the 1xx series tips. Same issue with RMA flux pens (Kester 186 I think). The rosin leaves a lot of black crud build-up on the tip and the flux residue becomes harder and more difficult to remove from the board as well. The synthetic fluxes are much more manageable. I guess that's why lead free solder has synthetic flux rather than rosin.
I use a Weller WFE2P fume extractor with my other irons. Yesterday I experimented with adding a (home-made) fume extraction nozzle to the metcal handpiece. It worked well, and makes quite a difference. The lack of fume extraction had compounded the issue of added smoke/fumes from the high tip temperature. I have one 0xx (600 series) tip and a 5xx (500 series) one on the way. I hope to continue using my favorite Kester 44 solder with the lower temperature of those tips.
BTW the lifted pads I referred to in my original post were from cheap proto boards like this:
These are very inexpensive (25 cent) boards that are actual FR4 with plated through holes. The pads that lifted off so easily are the ones at the perimeter. These boards are nice for practicing, especially when you are using a new iron that works very differently from what you are used to.
I haven't yet soldered any "real" boards with the Metcal because I am still getting to know it.