New Soldering Station Recomendation Weller VS JBC VS Ersa VS Others

[sn4k3]

Hello,

Currently i wan't to buy a new solder station.
I always have used JBC pencil irons and thier tips, they are very good and long lasting.
My needs are general purpose and ocasional SMD soldering (Not micro components), a 0.5mm tip would work well for this cases.

I have saw some models that cath my attention:

• JBC CD-2BE
• Weller WT 1010 (New)
• WELLER  WS 81
• Weller WSD 81i

JBC looks good with all thier features of hibernation and sleep while not using, and tip exchange.
Otherwise weller have good alternatives like WT 1010 new station 90W iron VS 50W JBC.
Weller WS81 analog is very pratical, just rotate the knob to the desired temperature and go but lack of some sleep or hibernation functions.

JBC and WT1010 are same price range  390€+/-
WSD81i and WD81 are same price range 250€ +/-

I can't test them to decide so anyone with experience with that stations can recommend or talk about them?
Pros and Cons and what station offer the best iron.

[nctnico]

Go for a soldering station from ERSA. The tips last longer and wet better than those from JBC and Weller.
I also recommend to use bigs tips from soldering SMD. I usually use a 3mm wide tip for TQFP and 0603 and larger. A small tip just doesn't have the capacity to transfer enough heat so you'll burn up the flux before the joint is ready.

[VK5RC]

I have had a faithful old Weller WD1000 for a long time and it still has the same tips, why did I buy spares?
About 5 years ago bought a JBC (DIT-2B) and was very impressed - a bit better than the Weller - but more money as well. I have the older model JBC handpiece T245 (non-A) which does get a bit warm if you are doing a lot of soldering all in one go - i.e. not returning it to the stand. I like the rapid ability to change tips - but the Weller chisel tip I like better than the JBC.
Recently I (6months ago) bought a Mectal MX5210 for my birthday and was very impressed - really good heat transfer - but don't like the cable on the handpiece - the Weller has the most pliable hanpiece cable in my opinion.
I have never really found the need to change the temperature.
Value for money - Weller
If I could have only one - prob JBC.
Heating big ground plane next to delicate part - Metal
I think they are all pretty good - I think the irons are probably better than my soldering! HiHi.

[madires]

JBC and WT1010 are same price range  390€+/-

ERSA i-CON 1

WSD81i and WD81 are same price range 250€ +/-

ERSA i-CON NANO

[digsys]

I have several JBCs, from the tiny handsets to 1/2 doz high power types. I wouldn't trade them for anything. Huge range of tips, and very long lasting.
Also have a Metcal (rarely used) and boxes of dead Wellers. Plus all types of other brands. my 2c

[MaximRecoil]

Recently I (6months ago) bought a Mectal MX5210 for my birthday and was very impressed - really good heat transfer - but don't like the cable on the handpiece - the Weller has the most pliable hanpiece cable in my opinion.

That's strange. I have an older Metcal (STSS, RM3E handpiece), and the cable is nearly as flexible/pliable as a shoelace. 

I have never really found the need to change the temperature.

Me neither. I use 700-degree tips (STTC-1XX) for everything. Not only that, but I use the exact same tip for almost everything: STTC-126:



With that tip I have no problem soldering everything from small SMDs to the big through-hole joints on a CRT TV/monitor's flyback transformer.

[nanofrog]

I'd drop the Weller WT1010 from consideration, as the tip selection is lousy right now. Out of your list, I'd opt for the JBC.

That said however, I'm with others that have recommended the Ersa i-Con 1 (specifically the i-Con 1V if you don't need additional tools/handpieces for it, as it's less expensive). Tips are of excellent quality, aren't expensive, and have an excellent selection of shapes (Ersadur 102 series).

Also, the value in the EU is excellent. 

For disclosure, I've a Weller setup (WD1 main unit, + WSP80 & WMP irons). And FWIW, I don't change temps often either.

[sn4k3]

Thank you for all the suggestions and share.
Regarding ERSA I-CON 1, what the difference from 1V? (Can't find a proper comparison)

[madires]

The i-CON 1 is the older model, and the 1V supports also other tools besides the i-Tool soldering iron. And firmware updates are possible via a µSD card. AFAIK, the older I-CON 1 needs an additional interface for updates. BTW, I've got an i-CON 2 with an i-Tool and Chip-Tool.

[sn4k3]

The i-CON 1 is the older model, and the 1V supports also other tools besides the i-Tool soldering iron. And firmware updates are possible via a µSD card. AFAIK, the older I-CON 1 needs an additional interface for updates. BTW, I've got an i-CON 2 with an i-Tool and Chip-Tool.

Thank you, so 1V would be better since is newer model right?

Also there are a i-CON 1C, what is this model?

[madires]

The C model has the additional interface built in. It's used to connect to a PC or other soldering equipment. IIRC, you can also copy profiles across the i-CONs using the interface.

[sn4k3]

Ok so i will skip that C model, not needed for my uses.
I can find the I-CON 1 easly in EU, farnell for example but I-CON 1V i can't find it... At least at a good price.
Can recommend a website with i-CON 1V avaliable to Europe customers?

EDIT:

I found that i can order directly from ersa-shop

I-CON 1: 288 €
I-CON 1V: 450 €
I-CON 2V: 448€
Shipping: 20€

Well given that i think the best option would be I-CON 1 OR I-CON 2V.
1V is kind of disavantage because of price.

What do you think?

[madires]

If you only need a soldering iron, the i-CON 1 would be the best choice. In case you also wan't to buy other tools later on, the 2V makes more sense.

[nctnico]

Last time I needed some Ersa gear I bought it from here because they seem to have the most complete selection: http://www.ersa-shop.com/

[GreyWoolfe]

Recently I (6months ago) bought a Mectal MX5210 for my birthday and was very impressed - really good heat transfer - but don't like the cable on the handpiece - the Weller has the most pliable hanpiece cable in my opinion.

That's strange. I have an older Metcal (STSS, RM3E handpiece), and the cable is nearly as flexible/pliable as a shoelace. 

I have never really found the need to change the temperature.

Me neither. I use 700-degree tips (STTC-1XX) for everything. Not only that, but I use the exact same tip for almost everything: STTC-126:



With that tip I have no problem soldering everything from small SMDs to the big through-hole joints on a CRT TV/monitor's flyback transformer.

I have a Metcal MX-500 and there is no issue as far as pliability is concerned.  My nit to pick is the ridiculously long cable on the RM-3E.  I use the 600 degree tips and get all the heat I need.  I also have a Hakko FX-951 and, like Nanofrog, I almost never change temps- I pretty much keep it at 650 F.

[VK5RC]

Re the Metcal cable, apologies I used the wrong term, it is pliable but it is sort of sticky - like very fine rubber is, doesn't follow easily, difficult to explain, may be its a bit too new and may settle down with time.

[RoGeorge]

Weller is no match for a JBC.
It might be because of me, but I never had a great experience with Weller, it's just an overpriced average tool.

[Bud]

There was similar thread some time back, my input was : JBC tips oxidize fast, be careful with this choice. This problem alone drives me mad, when i have long soldering sessions i just want to throw the damn thing out. Compare to JBC my old 15 year Weller still goes strong with the same tip which is always shiny and wet. JBC tips are junk compare to it. The JBC station firmware also has its own stupid quirks.

[sn4k3]

There was similar thread some time back, my input was : JBC tips oxidize fast, be careful with this choice. This problem alone drives me mad, when i have long soldering sessions i just want to throw the damn thing out. Compare to JBC my old 15 year Weller still goes strong with the same tip which is always shiny and wet. JBC tips are junk compare to it. The JBC station firmware also has its own stupid quirks.

Well i always have used JBC, pencil line only like the SL2020 and other lower models and i only have good to say about them.
Tips i used to JBC always last very long time. Oxidize wasn't bad or a problem to me, even if i don't tin the tip, not sure why you got that problem. Maybe because i use lower Wattage irons 30W and 40W?

However i'm thinking in adquiring the following setup:



What do you think?
I prefer long tips but they cost double, for saying the truth i always have used long tips from JBC, never tried short ones, so it worth the try for the price.
I plan to use 0.2mm tip for small repairs like jumper repairs in a single small point, i think that would make the job.
0.4mm and 0.5mm for smd
1mm for bigger smd and other regular stuff
Default 1.6mm tip for general things
2mm and 2.4mm to GND medium planes and AWG10 cables and others

[cowana]

It looks like you've selected a lot of conical tips from that list. I've got quite a few tips, but the main ones I use are these:

102CDLF1.6 (1.6mm chisel tip) - I keep that on 90% of the time, for TH and SMD work. Good for almost everything.
102CDLF3.2 (3.2mm chisel tip) - More for wiring harnesses or connectors, where a bit more heat/thermal contact is needed.
102PDLF0.4 (0.4mm conical) - For tiny stuff, but I rarely use it - generally a bigger tip and flux to get rid of bridges is easier.
102BDLF2.0 (As close to a knife edge as I could find) - For cleaning up QFN packages (cover it in flux and run it down the edge)
102CDLF10.0 (huge 10mm wedge) - For basically anything huge. Soldering to a chassis, heatsinks, blocks of metal...

Also, the tips attach with a black itool fastener (not supplied with the tips). While you only *need* one, I've bought one for each tip, as it makes changing them when hot so much easier.

[madires]

Also, the tips attach with a black itool fastener (not supplied with the tips). While you only *need* one, I've bought one for each tip, as it makes changing them when hot so much easier.

I second that. You can get black (3IT1040-00) and green (3IT1045-00) ones.

[kxenos]

For me going back to ersa, weller or metcal (I have access to and can use all three of them) after using my trusty jbc for more than 9 years would be like saying I was too bored with a ferrari and decided to get a VW for a change.
If you get this station post your review, it would be interesting.

[nanofrog]

There was similar thread some time back, my input was : JBC tips oxidize fast, be careful with this choice. This problem alone drives me mad, when i have long soldering sessions i just want to throw the damn thing out. Compare to JBC my old 15 year Weller still goes strong with the same tip which is always shiny and wet. JBC tips are junk compare to it. The JBC station firmware also has its own stupid quirks.

What Weller, and where are the tips made?

I ask, as I've a Weller setup myself, and have found that tips from Bosnia have ~30% failure rate vs. those that come from the US, Germany, or Japan (my stuff uses the NT & LT series; WMP & WSP80 irons respectively). Those with WES51/WESD51 stations have reported a similar experience with their tips (ET series made in Mexico).

What do you think?

From everything I've heard, Ersa is really good stuff.  It poses an excellent, if not the best value in the EU/UK based on both what I've seen and comments from members in this region of our little blue ball. 

As per tips, I don't use a lot of conical shapes. Of what I do, it's far more commonly a bent conical which is excellent for soldering passive SMD components & pulling bridges from SMD IC's IME. I'm far more partial to chisels or hoof/bevel shapes (tinned face only), depending on the task at hand. I've others, such as spoon/gull wing for drag soldering, and bent chisels (i.e. useful for connectors, as they're more ergonomic to use vs. a regular chisel).

FWIW, Hakko's Tip Selection Page may be of interest to you, as they show what the different shapes/profiles are used for.  It can hopefully help you save some funds on tip purchases for your needs. 

[nanofrog]

Also, the tips attach with a black itool fastener (not supplied with the tips). While you only *need* one, I've bought one for each tip, as it makes changing them when hot so much easier.

I forgot to mention, I've also a knife shape, and it's quite useful (good for passive SMD + drag soldering). 

And I also use multiple tip retainers in order to speed up tip changes, though I don't have one per tip (I've too many, and I'm a tight-wad    ).

[sn4k3]

It looks like you've selected a lot of conical tips from that list. I've got quite a few tips, but the main ones I use are these:

102CDLF1.6 (1.6mm chisel tip) - I keep that on 90% of the time, for TH and SMD work. Good for almost everything.
102CDLF3.2 (3.2mm chisel tip) - More for wiring harnesses or connectors, where a bit more heat/thermal contact is needed.
102PDLF0.4 (0.4mm conical) - For tiny stuff, but I rarely use it - generally a bigger tip and flux to get rid of bridges is easier.
102BDLF2.0 (As close to a knife edge as I could find) - For cleaning up QFN packages (cover it in flux and run it down the edge)
102CDLF10.0 (huge 10mm wedge) - For basically anything huge. Soldering to a chassis, heatsinks, blocks of metal...

Also, the tips attach with a black itool fastener (not supplied with the tips). While you only *need* one, I've bought one for each tip, as it makes changing them when hot so much easier.

Thank you for your tip list and the fastner advice i will get that.
1.6mm is included by default, thats why i don't have it in my list.
Im also interested in but the bent tip 1.8mm, 0102SDLF18, i love that shape for working
Knife tips are new to me (Never tried), i have to give it a try.
10mm is overkill to me but should put some respect ^^ get them latter if i need

[sn4k3]

For me going back to ersa, weller or metcal (I have access to and can use all three of them) after using my trusty jbc for more than 9 years would be like saying I was too bored with a ferrari and decided to get a VW for a change.
If you get this station post your review, it would be interesting.

Sure i will do.
Overall i think all top brands are good if you go good models.
Whatever a person tried first, if that please and simplify our live we will always try to stick and advice that brand based in our experience. Sometimes hard to decide when we got to many good choices. To do a fair decision is required to try all options.
My father work with JBC pencil since ever, tried other but can't leave JBC (More than 40 Years), they are very durable i don't renember a iron get broken beside tips and resistor, tip is changeble and resistor my father repair it and almost never have to buy a new one, he is electronic repairer, Started with OLD CRT TV repair as a bussiness and living. Now he do almost everything, even using JBC to cut plastic and other things, and after a cleaning tips are ready to solder xD (Not the best for the tip i know but we use the tools we have)
When i was a little boy i cut a JBC pencil  power coord, because of a mistake i made in my head (I heard someone saying have to cut it for do something else, not sure now), so in order to help i have cut the cable without permission and spare time to my father (Because cutting a cable is dam time consumption  ) End of story: He kick my ass hard so i will always respect JBC too ahah

[sn4k3]

I have placed the order



I will write my review latter, the price i got for the station is a bargain, so i can't miss it.
Regards

[nctnico]

IMHO you went a bit overboard with the really tiny tips but luckily you ordered some bigger ones as well.

[sn4k3]

IMHO you went a bit overboard with the really tiny tips but luckily you ordered some bigger ones as well.

I know.
As they are cheap there are no problem to keep them if i really need them anytime.
Don't forget the 1.6mm stock tip as well.

[tooki]

You're gonna love that thing. I have the I-Con nano and it's great. But I agree that you went way overboard with the conical tips. You're never gonna use them. (I have the 0.4mm "chisel" which is practically conical, and I've used it maybe once.) On the other hand, I HIGHLY suggest buying a drag soldering tip (I think Ersa calls them PowerWell.) I got the 2.4mm one. Not only does it work great for QFPs and the like, it's also perfect for tinning wires and things like that. The 1.6 chisel, the 2.4 PowerWell, and the 3.2 chisel take care of practically everything I do. I may add a 1mm-ish chisel at some point, and maybe a hoof, but neither seems urgent.

[sn4k3]

You're gonna love that thing. I have the I-Con nano and it's great. But I agree that you went way overboard with the conical tips. You're never gonna use them. (I have the 0.4mm "chisel" which is practically conical, and I've used it maybe once.) On the other hand, I HIGHLY suggest buying a drag soldering tip (I think Ersa calls them PowerWell.) I got the 2.4mm one. Not only does it work great for QFPs and the like, it's also perfect for tinning wires and things like that. The 1.6 chisel, the 2.4 PowerWell, and the 3.2 chisel take care of practically everything I do. I may add a 1mm-ish chisel at some point, and maybe a hoof, but neither seems urgent.

Yeah i know i will not regret
I know about tips, but as i said they are so cheap compared to what i buy before (JBC) and ersa icon tip collection is not so big, so i plan to adquire all and test them all
I only have buy 4 tips that are conical up to 1mm, the rest is other format, chisel, oval and the powerwell.
Thats for sharing your usage

[sainter]

I would really advice buying one >6mm chisel tip (I have 10mm 0102CDLF100). Wonderful for larger thermal mass components, or event to pull TO220 in one go. Just had to re solder a 4mm barrel jack on a ground plane, dwell time was next to nothing, they never drop more than 15-20 deg. of a set point.

Blade tip 0102BDLF20 is my go to for most of the jobs.

They came up with something new (at least for me) 0102CDLF24, seems like a good product for people who solder more through hole. Anyone have experience with them?

[MaximRecoil]

For me going back to ersa, weller or metcal (I have access to and can use all three of them) after using my trusty jbc for more than 9 years would be like saying I was too bored with a ferrari and decided to get a VW for a change.
If you get this station post your review, it would be interesting.

I've soldered millions of joints with a Metcal STSS and MX-500 (about 8,000 joints a night for 2 years on a production line in a PCB factory; ~4 million joints), and it certainly was no "VW". Anything that can keep up with production-line soldering for nearly 24 hours a day (all three shifts), 7 days a week, 50 weeks a year, is not analogous to a "VW". If JBC is analogous to a supercar then Metcal is as well, assuming you are talking about a real Metcal, i.e., the 13.56 mHz ones, and not the bargain-priced 450 kHz ones.

Also, I like the hard plastic Metcal RM3E handpiece. I hate rubbery/foam grips like JBC uses. It is like with Snap-on screwdrivers. The classic ones with a hard plastic handle were perfect. I can't stand the

ones.

[jonatanrullman]

On a related note. I was looking at some different irons, pretty much the same list as OP with a few minor differences.
But I'm a little wary of these overly complicated digital systems, if I'm going to spend this kind of money on a soldering station I'd like to think that I'm going to have it for 30 years.

Any thoughts on the longevity of, for example, the I-Con 1?

Cheers

[MaximRecoil]

On a related note. I was looking at some different irons, pretty much the same list as OP with a few minor differences.
But I'm a little wary of these overly complicated digital systems, if I'm going to spend this kind of money on a soldering station I'd like to think that I'm going to have it for 30 years.

Older Metcals, such as the STSS and MX-500 (which are the same thing aside from the latter having an extra RF jack) don't have anything digital. Their power supplies are simply a 13.56 mHz RF generator. You can even build one yourself - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-metcal-13-56-mhz-rf-supply/, and just buy an RM3E handpiece (or whatever they are calling their equivalent these days) and STTC-XXX tip cartridge to go with it.

[nanofrog]

On a related note. I was looking at some different irons, pretty much the same list as OP with a few minor differences.
But I'm a little wary of these overly complicated digital systems, if I'm going to spend this kind of money on a soldering station I'd like to think that I'm going to have it for 30 years.

Any thoughts on the longevity of, for example, the I-Con 1?

Cheers

There's some internal photos in the ERSA i-CON 1 - Teardown and Repair (Success) thread if you're interested. 

I don't have an Ersa, but I've had my Weller WD1 for nearly 9 years without issue, and I don't see a problem getting another 9+ out of it (I don't use it daily though, and I don't beat on my stuff). It has a standard LCD display though, not one that's backlit. I mention this as I saw an Ersa i-Con 2 on eBay where the backlight had gone out, but suspect it's repairable (it sold BTW). I damn near bought it, but a new iron was too expensive IMHO (over $300  ).

Despite the mention of some broken ones (all fixed BTW IIRC), they do appear to be well made. But like most things, stuff breaks. But it does appear most of it is repairable, and possibly all of it (i.e. not sure you'd be able to locate a new display unit in Q=1 if Ersa won't/can't sell one to an owner). To me, the biggest issue would be the firmware should the uC die.

[Neganur]

Can't help but think the Ersa and JBC nano look very similar?

[madires]

I mention this as I saw an Ersa i-Con 2 on eBay where the backlight had gone out, but suspect it's repairable (it sold BTW). I damn near bought it, but a new iron was too expensive IMHO (over $300  ).

The i-Tool is EUR150.

[wraper]

Despite the mention of some broken ones (all fixed BTW IIRC), they do appear to be well made. But like most things, stuff breaks. But it does appear most of it is repairable, and possibly all of it (i.e. not sure you'd be able to locate a new display unit in Q=1 if Ersa won't/can't sell one to an owner). To me, the biggest issue would be the firmware should the uC die.

AFAIK most of the faults were caused by faulty triac. LCD is off the shelf 128x64, shouldn't be an issue to source. Solder iron costs about EUR 150 as previously said (handle + heater + 1.6mm tip). But you can buy a heater separately for half of that.

[nanofrog]

The i-Tool is EUR150.

Looked further, and found it for $216 at TEquipment before the EEVBlog discount ($203.04). Definitely better, but it's still higher than what I'd like to pay just for an iron (I'm accustomed to getting an iron + stand set for that or less).

[tooki]

The i-Tool is EUR150.

Looked further, and found it for $216 at TEquipment before the EEVBlog discount ($203.04). Definitely better, but it's still higher than what I'd like to pay just for an iron (I'm accustomed to getting an iron + stand set for that or less).

Well, just as Weller (fundamentally American company) is overpriced in Europe, Ersa is overpriced in USA. But yeah, you could potentially find a European vendor to send a replacement iron for less than $200. Not that I can imagine any reason why you'd need to replace it. Even the heater (which is about half as expensive) seems to last indefinitely, since it's massively over-specced and runs at a fraction of its maximum rating during use.

As for what you get for $150... you realize the i-Tool is a 150W iron with its own accelerometer, calibration EEPROM, etc? It's in a totally different class from, say, a Hakko 888D.

The i-Con nano (which uses nearly the same handle, with the identical heater element, but driven only to 80W peak) is about $150 in Germany -- half of what it costs in USA. I think that shows its actual "home" pricing is much more in line with what you expect. You're just reacting to the "German product in USA" markup...

[nanofrog]

Not that I can imagine any reason why you'd need to replace it.

You're just reacting to the "German product in USA" markup...

I was eying an i-Con 2 with desolder tool & stand being sold for parts (appeared to be a blown backlight). No iron or stand for one, so I was looking up the cost of those to see if it was worth going after or not. Given the initial prices I saw, I declined to make a bid. And the person who won got it for the minimum bid (less than $300 shipped IIRC).

Oddly enough, my Weller gear is German made. 

[kxenos]

For me going back to ersa, weller or metcal (I have access to and can use all three of them) after using my trusty jbc for more than 9 years would be like saying I was too bored with a ferrari and decided to get a VW for a change.
If you get this station post your review, it would be interesting.

I've soldered millions of joints with a Metcal STSS and MX-500 (about 8,000 joints a night for 2 years on a production line in a PCB factory; ~4 million joints), and it certainly was no "VW". Anything that can keep up with production-line soldering for nearly 24 hours a day (all three shifts), 7 days a week, 50 weeks a year, is not analogous to a "VW". If JBC is analogous to a supercar then Metcal is as well, assuming you are talking about a real Metcal, i.e., the 13.56 mHz ones, and not the bargain-priced 450 kHz ones.

Also, I like the hard plastic Metcal RM3E handpiece. I hate rubbery/foam grips like JBC uses. It is like with Snap-on screwdrivers. The classic ones with a hard plastic handle were perfect. I can't stand the

ones.

For a production environment I see what you say. The 5000 series are indeed top notch equipment. The lack of adjustability though is a drawback in a repair shop.
The OKI/Metcal line (MFR1350 etc.) are complete rubbish in terms of quality (for a 600Euro class device) and I have 2 destroyed resistors and plenty of tips to back up this claim.
The Weller WRS3000V2 has been proven even worse in terms of quality but I'm not sure if I should blame it or the 150Kg gorilla that is using it for that. An other issue is that it's huge compared to JBC or Metcal and it can't be used easily for delicate rework in crowded PCBs. This applies to other older Wellers like WES51 as well.
To conclude, my list of requirements (for a repair workshop) include: fast (jbc and metcal), reliable (jbc and metcal), adjustable (jbc and weller) and thin (jbc and metcal) and that's how I assert that jbc is the best from the limited list of tools I've used.

[MaximRecoil]

For a production environment I see what you say. The 5000 series are indeed top notch equipment. The lack of adjustability though is a drawback in a repair shop.

Metcals are adjustable, in the same way that the old Weller Magnastats are adjustable, i.e., you change the tip (though it's a lot faster/easier to do with a Metcal than with an old Weller Magnastat). But regardless of that, I've always used the same temperature tip (STTC-1xx) for everything, both at work and at home, so not having a temperature adjustment dial (or digital equivalent) isn't a drawback for me, given that even if a Metcal had such a thing, I'd never use it after setting it once.

[madires]

To conclude, my list of requirements (for a repair workshop) include: fast (jbc and metcal), reliable (jbc and metcal), adjustable (jbc and weller) and thin (jbc and metcal) and that's how I assert that jbc is the best from the limited list of tools I've used.

ERSA i-Con with the i-Tool got all the features you've listed

[GreyWoolfe]

For a production environment I see what you say. The 5000 series are indeed top notch equipment. The lack of adjustability though is a drawback in a repair shop.

Metcals are adjustable, in the same way that the old Weller Magnastats are adjustable, i.e., you change the tip (though it's a lot faster/easier to do with a Metcal than with an old Weller Magnastat). But regardless of that, I've always used the same temperature tip (STTC-1xx) for everything, both at work and at home, so not having a temperature adjustment dial (or digital equivalent) isn't a drawback for me, given that even if a Metcal had such a thing, I'd never use it after setting it once.

I have a Metcal MX-500 and also use the STTC-1XX series tips.  I don't miss the knob of my Hakko 936.  I also have a Hakko FX-951 and I think I adjusted the temp once. 

[eKretz]

The only failure I've heard of from Ersas is the triac failure that one of our members posted about a while back. IIRC he bought it not working and repaired it. Nobody I know of with an Ersa actually had it fail on them though. Who knows what kind of abuse they go through at some workplaces. I've had my iCon 1 for probably 8 years now and use it all the time for hours at a crack with no reliability issues at all. I've got 8 tips with collars that I bought with it and all of them are still going strong also - no signs of losing their plating.

[torgil]

Thank's for the recommendations.

I went here looking for a private soldering station, I previously only have experience with Metcal's [SMA factory repairs] and Weller's [various]. I couldn't wait for your review (is it here somewhere?) so I basically copied your list minus a few conical tips but added the power-well 2.3mm and the 10mm. Adding support for the tweezer tool or air tool looked tempting but were too pricey for my use-case. I'll just settle for a heat gun and "manual" tweezers instead.

[TheAmmoniacal]

My first iron was a Weller, the tip dissolved and corroded away after hours of use. Never again.

[Magnum]

Thank's for the recommendations.

I went here looking for a private soldering station, I previously only have experience with Metcal's [SMA factory repairs] and Weller's [various]. I couldn't wait for your review (is it here somewhere?) so I basically copied your list minus a few conical tips but added the power-well 2.3mm and the 10mm. Adding support for the tweezer tool or air tool looked tempting but were too pricey for my use-case. I'll just settle for a heat gun and "manual" tweezers instead.

I just bought a Ersa I-Con Vario 2, with hot air and Vario Tweezers. Actually I was only looking for tweezers, as I already have two I-Con Nanos, a noname throughole dessolderer and a Aoyue 852A++ hot air gun. As I am really happy with the Nanos I wanted to stick with Ersa. So I looked at the I-Con1, but you can't use the Vario Tweezers with it. These tweezers have two times the power of the non Vario tweezers (2x40W instead of 2x20). So I wanted the I-Con1V, but the I-Con2V costs almost the same. Thinking about spending 700 Euros, I thought it would be a good idea to spend a bit more and get a good airgun, too. So I ended up with the Vario 2.

This unit is really great, the tweezers are fun to use. Because of the high power and a temperature sensor in each leg soldering is on a complete new level.
The air gun is also great, much smaller than the Aoyue. The temperature is spot on and has more than enough airflow and power for me, and heats up really quick.
My Vario doesn't have the vacuum pump installed (I couldn't justify another expensive "upgrade"), but I found a X-Tool Vario and a CU100 pump on ebay for a really good price. So now I will work only with the Vario and the Nanos.

My advice for someone buying a new station is getting a Nano if you want good quality for a good price. It has the same handpiece like the I-Con, but with only 80W and no automatic wake up. But usually it wakes up when you take it out of the holder and clean the tip (it recognized the temperature drop of the tip).
If you want to be able to upgrade with tweezers, throuhole desoldering or a high power handpiece later on, get the I-Con2V. IMHO the Vario tools are better than the old ones.
If you are crazy like me, get the Vario 2 or 4. I opened my Vario 2 today and think you can upgrade it with the internal vacuum pump (saw it too late, my external CU100 pump is already on the way). The pressure sensor and cable connector needed for the pump are installed on the mainboard and I think they use the same firmware for all versions (Vario 2 and 4).

[nukie]

L l

[sn4k3]

My ERSA I-CON 1 does a little of noise while is heating up or while mantaining the temperature. Is it normal?

[eKretz]

Yep it's normal. I don't even notice mine unless the room is dead "library" quiet though. It's just switching noise - you'll hear it anytime the unit is heating the element - when first turned on and anytime you make a joint that cools the tip down. I hear the same noise from switching wall warts when they're charging our cordless house phones.

[sn4k3]

After some time i come back to leave a short review on my station (i-con 1)
Start using: Jan-2017

Station: 4.5/5

- Very Fast heat up, i use 350ºc and it reach that temp after 5-6s
- Easy to operate
- Compact
- Heat recovery is excelent, just after tip cool down station will boost the temperature to keep it at the right profile
- Easy to open
- Well built

Feature i like to see/have:

- 3 or more easy access buttons to quickly change settings (Click and go), rotative knob is ok but can be painfull if you have to change frequently.
Thats why 4.5 of 5 rating

i-Tool 5/5

- Best handpiece i have own
- Very light, thin and small
- Easy to change tips (If you have a tip holder for each tip), otherwise change the tip holder is very very hard, the metal clamp require very force to remove tip, so i recommend everyone to get one tip holder for each tip (Like i did)
- Doesnt require a tool to change tips, i change tips at 400ºc by hand and is ok, plastic is hot but doesn't burn. Becarefull to not pick the metal tip instead of plastic holder
- here i can't tell what could be better

Tips 4.5/5

My collection: From 0.2mm to 10mm

- Big thumb up: PRICE and QUALITY! The price is low comparing to other brands, JBC for example can cost 25 to 35 EUR while ersa cost 8EUR the short version, of course ersa tips are just tips, otherwise JBC have temperature sensor on the tip and also they look fancier and expensive, but with the price of one JCB tip you can buy 4.
- Ersa doesn't have a very wide tip selection like other brands, but the tips they have are more than enough for almost everyone
- 0.2mm tip is useless, not optimized and solder will stick at body instead of tip, avoid this one, ersa know that and they now have a new 0.3mm heat optimized that fix that problem and by video i have seen it's perfect to solder tiny pin by pin)
- 0.4mm chissel tip is ok, it can solder small pins like micro-USB pins, at 400ºc it do the work fine without wait to solder melt and attach to pin/copper
- If 0.4mm tip works well mean all other big tips will work too, just use the tip that fit your solder job, they recommend use a tip that match pad lenght and that works well for me
- Default tip is almost universal, i have used for lot of jobs including micro usb pins
- PowerWell drag solder tips works as they advertise, but good flux will do same effect with other tip, still this powerwell tips are a must, as they only have 3 tips of this kind you should consider having at least 1, it will not hurt you

My favorite tips and most used:
- 0.4mm, 1.6mm (chissel)
- 0.8mm bent, 1mm (Conical)

Stand 4/5

- At first, from what i saw in images i didn't like the iron stand, but i must say i was wrong, not the best but the stand is appropriate and well designed for the iron.
- tip will not touch anything while on stand so it will not cool down the tip.
- It have 6 slots for place the tips, only 4 metals are included to secure the tips but i have brought some copper bars 3mm and cut them to make my own improved tip holder/secure (I also will build a tip holder from 3D print or wood, ersa tip holders are expensive and don't worth the value)
- It have one drawback, stand is light/not heavy, and it will not sticky to the surface very well, if you are the kind of person that put the tool with lot of confidence in the stand you can move it back
- The solder clean brass is ok but after sometime the stand will get dirt from splashed solder and is very noticeble, if you don't like to see mess or spiked textures you should buy a cleaner with splash protection

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So in the end i'm very happy and i already sold my ersa i-con 1. Thats right i sold it three days ago and have buy the i-CON2V, the extra port will come handy for the tweezer tools.
Why not ERSA VARIO 2? IMO it don't worth buy vario 2 only to use i-tool + tweezers.
So VARIO 4 is a no no to me too, if i want X-TOOL and S-AIR i iwll keep i-con2v and buy vario 2 and use both independent, as two system will live longer than one with same power supply and circuit.

Also keep in mind a big disavantage (at least for me), ersa 2 or more tools stations once you power them up they will heat up all connected tools. Even you set a stand by time, which you must, is time that you are wasting your tip and oxidize them, theres no need to heat up 3 tools when you only use one, but i already advice ersa to update the firmware with a simple addtion: Use the motion sensor to detect tool grab, once tool got picked it start heatup for the first time, i prefer to touch the tool to start heat up then have all frying. Also i advice to put a menu option to set this ON or OFF. Easy to do, free and improve alot the Vario 2 and 4.

Keep plug and unplug tools are boring, and can lead to damage pins over time, so in my i-con2v i plan to hack the station and implement two switch buttons to enable or disable tool data pin. Also i will try to add fixed macros to the station, something like 200, 300, 350, 400ºc will fit my needs. (200ºc macro is just to trigger a sleep temperature instead of waiting)

Fell free to ask anything, i hope this review can help the people.

[kandrey89]

I prefer this Weller station, handle and tips: http://www.weller-toolsus.com/soldering/systems/weller-wx2021n-solder-stat-wxmpms-wxmtms-wdh51-wdh60-120v.html