Newbie with questions about FX951

[mcantar]

Hey folks, I got fed up with my $5 soldering iron for the last time and went on eBay to pick up a FX888D. While searching for the best deal I found used 951 with a best offer option, so uh... that's on the way now for like $20 more than I was gonna spend on the 888.

Here's a pic from the listing:




Now my questions... first and foremost, what else do I need? The torch/iron/whatever looks incomplete. In other pics of these there's a colored grip section, but I haven't been able to find a parts diagram or similar. Is that a piece I'll need to get, and what's the nomenclature to search for it with? Is there anything else I might not know I need?

Also, the station is missing the key. I've found a number of tutorials on how to bypass the key within the board, but I'm not entirely sure what the key is for in the first place. Seems it's just to access the settings menu? If so, I suppose without knowing what the settings have been set to and what I'll need them at it's a safe bet that I'll need the key. Would it be more beneficial to do the board bypass, or to 3d print a key? Or are keys available for purchase somewhere?

I did order an assortment of various style tips from China. I'm sure these are low quality compared to authentic and maybe I'll see some issues from that, but it'll let me figure out what style I'll get the most use out of and I can buy authentic from there.


For the record, this will be used for tinkering around at home. I build custom bikes in my free time so I do a lot of wiring harness stuff, every once in a while I'll end up needing to reattach a component on a board for an instrument panel or something but nothing major. I've been wanting to get into Arduino/Pi stuff so maybe this will push me in that direction as well. I'm sure this station will be overkill for my use, but that's how I like things.

[GreyWoolfe]

The colored pieces are the tip holders.  You need the tip holders to hold the tips in place so you would want several.  I only have 6 tips so I have 1 for each.  The most important thing the key is for is to be able to change the temperature.  Without the key, you can't change the temp, not that I really do.  I leave it at 650F all the time.  Yes, you can bypass, or if you want, I have a couple of ruff keys that I made from sheet plastic.  If you PM me your name and address, I can stick one in an envelope and send it to you.  I noticed that you don't have the auto-sleep stand.  Don't forget to use the key to set the shut off time, you should still be able to set that with a standard stand.  You don't want to walk away and leave it on.  Finally, I would recommend that you get at least 1 genuine Hakko tip from TEquipment.net, where you can buy the tip holders.  Get it in the size that you think you will use the most.  If you are going to have a nice iron, don't use crappy tips.  Look for the TEquipment discount thread and ask for the discount code, I don't know it as I haven't ordered from them since I got my FX-951 from them.

[mcantar]

Ok, that makes sense re. the tip holders. I'll order 2 or 3 of those as I'm guessing I'll probably only use a couple of the tips on a regular basis.

That's a generous offer with the key, I'll shoot you a PM, thanks! Changing the temp is one of the main features I want with this, helpful for doing burn tests to figure out types of plastic etc. so it sounds like I'll need it.

I'll definitely be ordering the genuine Hakko tips once I figure out which ones I'll get the most use out of.

Disappointed to discover this isn't the auto-sleep stand. I wonder if this could be rigged up with a switch to get that functionality?

[GreyWoolfe]

I don't know how good a deal you received and how much you paid, but there is an upgrade kit that gives you another FM-2027 wand, the sleep stand and a tip holder for $108.33.  Here is the link-- https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FM2027-06-Solder-Conversion-Holder/dp/B009SCNO6S/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1538357320&sr=8-15&keywords=hakko+soldering+kit   I am not sure about modifying the stand you have.  The metal frame that holds the wand actually pivots up and down slightly, probably activating a switch of some sort in a black box attached to the back of the stand.  a cable with 3 mm stereo plugs connects the stand to the station.  I haven't taken it apart to see how it works.  It doesn't appear that the upgrade kit includes the cable but you probably have one or a hundred floating around.

The key will be in the snail mail box tomorrow.

[mcantar]

I got everything in the picture for $100 shipped   I was planning on paying $80-90 for the 888 so it was a pretty easy decision there. Granted the 888 would have been new, but I don't see an issue arising from the 951 having a bit of use on it (especially considering the cal sticker with a recent date).

Cheers re. the key, much appreciated.

I wonder if I might be able to find measurements for one of those sleep stands on the web. I'm an aerospace machinist and TIG welder by day, so whipping up a replica or at least a functionally equivalent contraption shouldn't be too difficult... looking at pics, it's just some folded sheet metal.

If you have one, would you be able to take a look at that switch on the back and see if there are any numbers on it?

[Nusa]

List of parts that came with the original are under specifications.
https://www.hakkousa.com/products/soldering/hakko-fx-951-soldering-station.html
Tip-holders are under replacement parts and are cheap enough, even from Hakko. A selection of tips will add up fast, however.

As for a missing key, the easy fix is simply a piece of card stock cut in a strip narrow enough to fit the slot. Then cut a key-slot in the right place so it'll go past the ward. Not too hard to figure out.

[GreyWoolfe]

Mcantar, here are some pictures.  The first 2 show the stand.  The part that holds the wand is mounted to the back plate with pivots slightly backwards when the wand is inserted.  There is a stop screw at the bottom, the pivot points obviously at the top.  The box with the switch is mounted to the side of the stand and the switch is closed.  I didn't look up the part number so I don't know if it is NC or NO.  There are 3 tabs on the switch and the 2 wires are soldered to the left and center tabs.  There is a 4.6K\$\Omega\$ across the tabs.  The 2 wires are soldered to two tabs of a 1/8" stereo jack on the tip and ring.  Hope this helps.

[GregDunn]

Once you have the 951 for a while and get comfortable with it, you'll probably want to open it up anyway and put a piece of tape over that beeper.  It's obviously intended to wake up someone who's working in a noisy environment.     While in there, a piece of shrink wrap over the IR LED or sensor will eliminate the need for the key.  I have a key with mine, but not only is it something which can be lost, IIRC you are supposed to pull it out and stick it back in when you want to reset the temperature.  Disabling it just seemed like the best path forward; after the fix has been made, you hold the "*" key for a moment and it goes into set mode and everything else works the same after that.  I feel it's only really useful when you need to keep prying fingers from messing with the settings - not that anyone could figure out most of the settings without the manual. 

The sleep mode switch is a good thing; I've walked away from mine a few times to attend to an important task and forgotten it was on.  If you set the sleep temp low enough, it will pretty much eliminate any degradation of the tip while not in use.

[GreyWoolfe]

Once you have the 951 for a while and get comfortable with it, you'll probably want to open it up anyway and put a piece of tape over that beeper.  It's obviously intended to wake up someone who's working in a noisy environment.     While in there, a piece of shrink wrap over the IR LED or sensor will eliminate the need for the key.  I have a key with mine, but not only is it something which can be lost, IIRC you are supposed to pull it out and stick it back in when you want to reset the temperature.  Disabling it just seemed like the best path forward; after the fix has been made, you hold the "*" key for a moment and it goes into set mode and everything else works the same after that.  I feel it's only really useful when you need to keep prying fingers from messing with the settings - not that anyone could figure out most of the settings without the manual. 

The sleep mode switch is a good thing; I've walked away from mine a few times to attend to an important task and forgotten it was on.  If you set the sleep temp low enough, it will pretty much eliminate any degradation of the tip while not in use.

The tape over the beeper was the first thing I did.  I don't worry about anyone touching my stuff in my office.  It is MY private domain, as the soaker bathtub is Mrs. GreyWoolfe's private domain.   I may do the heat shrink if I have occasion to open it up.  I don't mind using the key as I change the temp so rarely.

[GregDunn]

The tape over the beeper was the first thing I did.  I don't worry about anyone touching my stuff in my office.  It is MY private domain, as the soaker bathtub is Mrs. GreyWoolfe's private domain.   I may do the heat shrink if I have occasion to open it up.  I don't mind using the key as I change the temp so rarely.

Agreed; no one in the house would be tempted to mess with my test gear so I will sometimes defeat a lockout that doesn't present a general safety hazard.  But I know from long experience that if something is removable it will eventually get misplaced; disabling the key keeps that from ever being an issue, and it doesn't interfere with operation of the iron at all.  I don't change the temp often, but when I do I certainly don't want to find out that the key has migrated. 

[maginnovision]

That's a clone unit, right? No sleep input on the unit?

[GreyWoolfe]

That's a clone unit, right? No sleep input on the unit?

This is the labeling on the back of my genuine Hakko power supplies.  Mcantar, if yours looks like this, it is a good bet it is original.  If not you may have a fake.  If it is made in Japan, it is original.  If it says made in China, it's fake.  The wand does look original, but not sure.

[mcantar]

Mcantar, here are some pictures.  The first 2 show the stand.  The part that holds the wand is mounted to the back plate with pivots slightly backwards when the wand is inserted.  There is a stop screw at the bottom, the pivot points obviously at the top.  The box with the switch is mounted to the side of the stand and the switch is closed.  I didn't look up the part number so I don't know if it is NC or NO.  There are 3 tabs on the switch and the 2 wires are soldered to the left and center tabs.  There is a 4.6K\$\Omega\$ across the tabs.  The 2 wires are soldered to two tabs of a 1/8" stereo jack on the tip and ring.  Hope this helps.

Perfect, thanks for the pics! Looks like the SS-01-E switch is a couple bucks from Mouser/Digikey/etc, easy enough. I'll give the pics to my sheetmetal shop tomorrow and they'll come back with either a finished product out of folded metal, or some parts for me to zap together.

[mcantar]

Once you have the 951 for a while and get comfortable with it, you'll probably want to open it up anyway and put a piece of tape over that beeper.  It's obviously intended to wake up someone who's working in a noisy environment.     While in there, a piece of shrink wrap over the IR LED or sensor will eliminate the need for the key.  I have a key with mine, but not only is it something which can be lost, IIRC you are supposed to pull it out and stick it back in when you want to reset the temperature.  Disabling it just seemed like the best path forward; after the fix has been made, you hold the "*" key for a moment and it goes into set mode and everything else works the same after that.  I feel it's only really useful when you need to keep prying fingers from messing with the settings - not that anyone could figure out most of the settings without the manual. 

The sleep mode switch is a good thing; I've walked away from mine a few times to attend to an important task and forgotten it was on.  If you set the sleep temp low enough, it will pretty much eliminate any degradation of the tip while not in use.

Thanks for the tips, I'll definitely be taping over that speaker... done the same with one of the HAAS mills at work, the thing just screams at you otherwise. I'll take a look at the IR sensor while I'm in there, but it seems simply leaving the key in should accomplish the same thing no?

[mcantar]

That's a clone unit, right? No sleep input on the unit?

It's genuine, I don't buy cloned stuff. Here's a pic from the listing showing the back sticker, compare to GreyWoolfe's post...



That said, I didn't look at that when reviewing the listing before purchase. What sold me on it as being authentic was the sticker on the top, it's a calibration sticker (with a recent date too, last cal Nov 15 2017/due Feb 15 2018). As someone who works in aerospace doing government contract stuff, I'm very familiar with calibration certifications... no company is going to spend the time/money on a certified calibration of a device or tool unless it's required by a customer contract or a regulating body, and no company subject to such things is going to use Chinese clones (especially of something with a measly 3-figure price tag).

Edit to add... the sleep input is there peeking out from behind the power cord.

[maginnovision]

Yea, looks good. Was curious because it had no back pictures and appeared to be missing the surround for the handpiece. Two outward signs of a clone.

[mcantar]

The unit and the key have arrived! Looks to be in good shape, but the Chineseum tips I ordered won't be in for a while yet and with no tip all I get is an error with a constant beep and "S-E" displayed on the screen (Googler says this is normal when no tip is present). So with that said, I can't test function, but nothing I'm seeing with the rest of it is raising any red flags for me.