Recommend a Soldering Station Please

[kPATm]

Hello. Iv been using a Dremel Versa Tip Butane Soldering Iron for a while ( Its been very handy) Now the Catalyst has worn out and they are hard to get a hold of and they are expensive :-(

Im looking at replacing it with a wired soldering iron with temp control and if the price is right a hot air gun.

I know for a decent bit of kit you are looking at a fair few £ but I only have a small budget of £50. Thanks

[Avacee]

I went from a butane soldering iron to one of these and am very happy with it and the difference is staggering
https://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-937-soldering-station.html

Add in a tip set and that's your budget:
https://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/soldering-iron-tips-aoyue-conical-chisel-bevel.html

Have used a Hakko FX-888 at a makerspace and will be upgrading sometime - You definitely get what you pay for there

[kPATm]

That does look good Avacee. How accurate are the temps on it?

[Avacee]

Couldn't say with a high degree (no pun intended!) of accuracy as I don't have a tester but on mine 345 will be in the ballpark and can then tweak up and down a bit.

[stj]

try cleaning the catalytic end of your butane thing with a solvent,
i used to have a butane iron and there was a tar-like byproduct that used to build up.

[kPATm]

Thanks stj but the catalyst is beyond saving. Iv ordered a cheap butane soler iron hoping that I can use the catalyst in that to repair the Versatip

[BradC]

I went from a butane soldering iron to one of these and am very happy with it and the difference is staggering
https://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-937-soldering-station.html

If you are going Aoyue, buy genuine Hakko tips. You'll be floored by the difference and Hakko tips last pretty much forever if you don't abuse them.

[Assafl]

I've seen older Metcals go for a wee bit over 50E (usually around 100$). There was an MX500 power base for about 50$ not so long ago.

I think it is a cut above most I've ever used (albeit I liked JBC as well but couldn't find one at a decent price). Also heard (but not from experience) Ersa Icon and some Pace are excellent.

When I was a kid I saved up my allowance and bought a Weller W60P (I think there was a 40W version at the time). It had interchangeable tips and was extraordinarily powerful (compared to the Antex my father had). It got lost somewhere in the last 30 years.... Obviously Metcal MX500 is much faster....

I'd wait for one of those rather than go China... I tried a Tenma and couldn't do it. I hate it when they stick to the board... Drives me insane...

[KL27x]

+1 on genuine Hakko tips if you use a Hakko clone.

I have been using chinese T12 tips, and they don't compare in the level of finish to my Hakko T18 tips. The better ones are more than decent, but the QC is lacking.

Chinese BCF3
#1 is not so bad, other than a big notch and a finish that is ridged like a soup can.

#2 is a trainwreck. This is brand new, unused:

There are chips in the chrome all the way around the face, but this spot is the worst. The cracks go farther up, so I expect a lot more chrome to fall off after the first couple of uses. It looks like the tip took a big impact that made it flare out at this spot. I might have blamed shipping/handling, except the sealed plastic bag and factory tinning on the face of the tip are both pristine and unblemished.

Genuine Hakko T18 CF3:

You can see where the chrome wears away, but mind that this is the exact spot that has been dragged across perhaps 280,000 thousand IC pins in 4 years. The rest of the tip is pristine (a little dirty, though )

[kPATm]

Iv been looking at these two

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-8786d-desoldering-hot-air-rework-station-with-50w-soldering-iron/

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/

Anyone have any experience with these? Thanks

[nanofrog]

Iv been looking at these two

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-8786d-desoldering-hot-air-rework-station-with-50w-soldering-iron/

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/

Anyone have any experience with these? Thanks

The latter one has features that are really nice.  And based on external appearance, it seems better made (hopefully a properly sized transformer).

I'm also a fan of separate units, as you can use one to fix the other (even if one tool is still working, you don't want to solder on live circuits).

The 858D would be a viable hot air station on the low-end of the price spectrum (a lot of members use them). There's an 858D+, which adds 3 presets (~3GBP more, shipped).

[kPATm]

While reading up on these Iv seen a few post about some clones not being oroperly earthed. Are there any popular clones that are like this and what needs to be checked and fixed? Thanks

[Towger]

He won't get a MX500 Metcal in the UK on ebay for his budget. Getting the MX500 base alone for £60 is good going, a SP200 with handle might possible for £50.  There are quality European brands such as JBC, ERSA I-Con and of course endless Weller models etc.

OP, you should PM Toploser, he is always getting customer returns and selling them off for a good price when he runs out of space!

[woody]

https://www.banggood.com/MINI-TS100-Digital-OLED-Programable-Interface-DC-5525-Soldering-Iron-Station-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-984214.html

Fits your budget, and can be fed with a battery or power supply. Do not own it myself, but a friend of mine seems very happy with it. At least with the portable part.

[Psi]

These are pretty damn good for the price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/138x88x38mm-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-EU-Plug-Temperature-180-435-Degrees-T12-Handle/32692999653.html

you could throw a genuine Hakko T12 tip on it if you want, but the knife tip it comes with is actually pretty good.

[kPATm]

Thanks for the recommendations. Would prefer ordering from the UK mind as I need it pretty soon and I dont want to mess with the returns if it bought from China. I think I will do that Towger. Thanks

[kPATm]

Any more recommendations for me?

[eugenenine]

Hako 951

This forum talked me into going up to the 951 instead of the 888 and it was a good choice.

[GreyWoolfe]

Hako 951

This forum talked me into going up to the 951 instead of the 888 and it was a good choice.

I went from a real 936 to the 951.  No comparison.  I didn't need a better soldering iron, I just wanted a better soldering iron.  TEquipment.net EEVBlog discount made it affordable for the budget I had.

[nanofrog]

Another vote for the Hakko FX-951. 

Link is for Batterfly, which sells it for 279EUR before VAT (least expensive source in the EU/UK market I'm aware of). Add a couple of tips or so to reach the 300EUR mark, and the shipping is free.

[kPATm]

Thanks. But like my OP says my budget is £50.

[4CX35000]

Thanks. But like my OP says my budget is £50.

At £50 then you can look at one of the cheap Katsu 936D soldering iron stations on eBay which go for around £25 to £30. Your not going to get a £400 pound quality Weller which many clowns seem to enjoy comparing these iron's with on this forum or doing some daft YouTube video, but still, the Katsu 936D and other similar models do provide reasonable results for the price and ideal for those with a tight budget and want a full solder station.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-936-Digital-Electronic-Soldering-Rework-Station-60W-312087-/292130123261?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

If you want a ordinary iron then you can look at the Antex range on eBay which cost £20 upwards and in the past I have used the Antex digital controlled TCS230 which cost £69 when a colleague bought it and I thought it provided good results for the price. He was impressed for home use and he is someone who uses a £800 solder station everyday.

[woody]

I must have an RS-components soldering station somewhere:

http://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/0186719/

I got it as a gift years ago. Still in the original packing and never used, as I expected it not to be in the same league as the JBC on my desk. God knows where I stacked it, but if you're interested I can take a look :-)

I'll trade it for a good quality bench multimeter.

Paul

[kPATm]

Thanks for the offer Woody but I dont have anything to trade

[nanofrog]

Thanks. But like my OP says my budget is £50.

My appologies, got side tracked. 

Given your budget, I'd still go with one of the KSGER T12 stations available on Aliexpress (example), and add a stand for the iron (examples). Possible to get both shipped within your budget. 

Regarding the station, I've ignored kits as I've no idea if you've an iron at all. If you do however, you could give one a go to save even further on funds.

As per a stand, I'd actually recommend a Hakko 633-01 as it's not nearly as prone to falling over and will last you the rest of your life (this version also includes the 599B brass wool tip cleaner). If you're unable or unwilling to go this route, you could add some weight to the bottom of a cheapie to reduce the chances of it falling over.

[bd139]

I'd go with the Aoyue 937 station already mentioned if you want a new one. However note that the company who sell them regularly have stock problems on parts.

If you can go £10 more there are usually Weller PS2/PS3 stations on eBay. They are much better and you can get parts and tips next day from RS without having to wait for some backwater shite merchant to ship it half way round the planet.

[nanofrog]

Used definitely opens up other possibilities. 

• Weller WTCP 51
• Weller PU81
• Weller PU-2D

OP: the first and third stations listed use Curie Point temp control (i.e. the tip sets the temperature).

[bd139]

My main iron is a WTCP 51. Highly recommended. Eats up any job I throw at it. I paid full whack from Farnell for that (£205) last year. This replaced the PS2 I had for the last 20 years. Had the original tip. There was nothing wrong with the PS2, it was just tatty and the transformer buzzed a little because it was getting old. Still working though.

My father used a PU-2 until last year when he gave up. Same one he bought in the 1970s. Great investment.

[Gyro]

https://www.banggood.com/MINI-TS100-Digital-OLED-Programable-Interface-DC-5525-Soldering-Iron-Station-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-984214.html

Fits your budget, and can be fed with a battery or power supply. Do not own it myself, but a friend of mine seems very happy with it. At least with the portable part.

I bought a TS100 myself a few weeks ago. I would hesitate to recommend it as a "Soldering Station" in this context as it is an iron on its own, no stand and it needs a (3 pin) laptop supply (as close to 24V as possible for maximum wattage), or a bench supply to power it too. On its own it is around £49 from UK sellers, cheaper from China of course, as the above link.

That said, it has very impressive warm up time and more or less instant response to thermal loads, especially with Ben Brown's revised firmware. I run mine at 24V (around 65W output) and it's quite uncanny to see such a tiny iron handling large joints so easily.

As a second iron I wouldn't hesitate but as a first.... 

[stj]

banggood had the TS100 on special for £30 the other day.

[woody]

As a second iron I wouldn't hesitate but as a first.... 

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely agree with you. But the OP asked for a replacement of a butane soldering iron with temp control for a budget of £50. I think the TS100 fits that. It certainly surpasses the butane iron that costs 3 times as much, has no temperature control, a nasty exhaust that fries adjacent parts and often refuses to work outside when cold.

IMO any 'first' soldering station that survives switching on on Monday morning and switching off again on Friday afternoon will set you back at least a couple of hundred euros. I'm still paying the mortgage for the JBC on my desk 

[kPATm]

I very much appreciate all the recommendations :-)

I think I have narrowed it down to a choice of 4?


Aoyue 937

https://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-937-soldering-station.html


http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10130-uk-eu/rework-station-900w-220v-uk-eu/dp/2062633

Apparently this is a rebadged Atten 8502d. I can get this in 2nd hand for a good price


http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/


http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-8786d-desoldering-hot-air-rework-station-with-50w-soldering-iron/

Think this is also Atten rebadged

[Gyro]

I very much appreciate all the recommendations :-)

I think I have narrowed it down to a choice of 4?

...

http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10130-uk-eu/rework-station-900w-220v-uk-eu/dp/2062633

Apparently this is a rebadged Atten 8502d. I can get this in 2nd hand for a good price

...

I have exerience of the Tenma soldering iron (only) station...

http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-uk/soldering-station-60w-220v-uk/dp/2064549

The iron part looks the same and they use the same tips. The thermal coupling between the element and tip isn't good. It has trouble melting joints unless you wind the temperature up.


@woody:

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely agree with you. But the OP asked for a replacement of a butane soldering iron with temp control for a budget of £50. I think the TS100 fits that. It certainly surpasses the butane iron that costs 3 times as much, has no temperature control, a nasty exhaust that fries adjacent parts and often refuses to work outside when cold.

You have a good point there, as a replacement for a butane one (which presumably also doesn't have a stand etc.) it is a far superior replacement (availability of mains adaptor / battery pack permitting).

[kPATm]

Iv been reading a lot about the cheaper stations having poor thermocoupling. Isnt there a small mod that can be done to help?

[Gyro]

Some people have had some success by packing the air gap between the ceramic element rod and the surrounding tip with foil or copper grease but it's not ideal.I't basically a tolerancing issue on the cheaper irons I think. The Tenma and similar use the element resistance for temperature sensing rather than a thermocouple, so poor thermal coupling translates to an artificially low tip temperature relative to the element.

I'm not an expert on these things but I think Hakkos etc use a thermocouple. Anything with the element permanently integrated into the tip - T12 etc.(and TS100) have much closer thermal coupling and are thermocouple temperature sensed, the downside is more expensive tips(/elements) but not a big issue.

Someone with more specific knowledge will be able to say which of your list are thermocouple sensed.


EDIT: For context, when I talked about the Tenma iron struggling to melt joints, that was in comparison with my venerable old 45W Weller TCP.

[kPATm]

I do like the idea of the T12 tips.

[sn4k3]

Strange that no one recommend ERSA...

ERSA Pico  80W Iron
ERSA Nano 80W Iron
ERSA i-con 1 150W Iron
ERSA i-con 2V 150W Iron and Tweezers

The best you can get for the price. Smart station with standby features, the i-tool is excelent, tips have a very large lifespan, iron is light as a pen, easy to replace tips without shutdown or wait for cooldown, and final the tips are dirty cheap because they have no sensors on they (+/- 8€ per normal tip, but they also have 80€-120€ wick tips  )

Don't go cheap crap the price not justify against a Ersa pico or nano... Cheap station will perform bad, tips sucks, die faster and bad heat recovery. But there are some exceptions out there.

TS100 is great iron i can tell it perform as well as high end irons, even the tiny tip have good a solder flow at very tip.
If you can't raise your budget you can't go wrong with TS100 and you can get one in UK ebay

My collection:

[stj]

Strange that no one recommend ERSA...

not really, he said he has a £50 limit. 

[kPATm]

Thats true. I really like the look of the TS100 though. About £60 then I would need a decent PSU mind you? Not sure what to do?

[kPATm]

Hmm. Notice there is a "New Upgraded" TS100

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Programmable-Pocket-size-Soldering-Interface-Acceleration/dp/B072Z9B9YS/ref=pd_cp_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TE9HR79ST536DR1BJTHP

[Gyro]

I do like the idea of the T12 tips.

BTW, I certainly wouldn't argue with some others' advice about a second hand Weller TCP either. They have served me well at work and home for decades. If really pushed on cost you can power one off a 24V 50W transformer (they need AC to preserve the 'Magnastat' contacts) until you find a matching base.

[kPATm]

It looks like the Upgraded version comes with a 19v UK power supply. Im close to buying this. The tips are a bit expensive mind?

[Gyro]

It's about time they started selling the TS100s complete with power supplies. I see that one comes with both B2 (round point) and BC2 (round chisel) tips, probably the only ones you'll need. You can pick up other tips for around £9 inc. on ebay UK.


I hate it when someone gets close to a buying decision based (in part at least) on my input! 

[kPATm]

I take it the TS100 would be grounded then with the supplied UK PSU?

[sn4k3]

Strange that no one recommend ERSA...

not really, he said he has a £50 limit. 

50£ very low to buy something good, possible but if buy tips or other acessories will always overpass, but theres an situation when you show other options he can decide to raise the budget if likes and justify the investment

Thats true. I really like the look of the TS100 though. About £60 then I would need a decent PSU mind you? Not sure what to do?

TS100 is a good to go, i have one and i use it over ERSA when i'm just to lazy to change the tips mutiple times in same rework and i can tell you it perform just as well otherwise i wouldn't use. You have the portabilty, you can use a battery to power it, good tips (i own them all, they are just a few).
PSU you can use your 19VDC laptop charger, i have an 24V, the only difference will be the heat up time, you win a few seconds.
Beware of fake power supply and cheap crap.
PSU with earth connection is better since you can stay ESD safe, but it will work without it.

Hmm. Notice there is a "New Upgraded" TS100

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Programmable-Pocket-size-Soldering-Interface-Acceleration/dp/B072Z9B9YS/ref=pd_cp_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TE9HR79ST536DR1BJTHP

I doubt about that, that just marketing... What you got there is a different shell (Brown color, i have transparent you can buy them from china), a power supply, a extra tip and other accessories that you can discard or won't need anyway.
TS100 is TS100 there aren't other model. Still is a good deal
PSUs can be easly found on eBay

[sn4k3]

For a complete tip information please see this article: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Replacement-Solder-Tip-For-TS100-Digital-LCD-Soldering-Iron-/182720381090
There you can find all avaliable tips, their size and models
I recomend the D24 tip for most of the works



Actualy i found that heat times are bigger than actually is.
My 24V 5A (120W) heat up to 350ºc in just 6s

[Shock]

Those Aliexpress Hakko T12 tip inspired clones (the ones with the rotary encoder) also have a longer exposed tip length than the original handles (HAKKO FM-2027/FM-2028)

Threre are FM-2028 clone handles on Aliexpress as well, not sure about the wiring though that would be something to check.

[stj]

the only thing upgraded is the firmware.
you can do that yourself through the usb connector.

https://www.banggood.com/MINI-TS100-Digital-OLED-Programable-Interface-DC-5525-Soldering-Iron-Station-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-984214.html
£38 from china.
8 more than last week - never mind.

[Gyro]

I take it the TS100 would be grounded then with the supplied UK PSU?

The tip is actually connected to the DC plug barrel via an internal 100nF capacitor so it is AC 'grounded' DC floating. The tip is directly connected to the little grounding screw just above the display (I see that the kit comes with a curly grounding cord to connect to it).

On mine, I have bridged the internal 100nF capacitor (after ensuring that the DC output of my laptop supply is mains grounded) so my tip is mains grounded.

The adaptor pictured has a 3 pin mains input, so I would assume (but would want to check carefully) that its output is grounded too.

[Gyro]

FYI, these are the links you want to look at regarding Ralim's alternative TS100 Firmware:

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100  (Includes features and schematic)

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/releases (Firmware releases)

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues (Feature requests and issues)

[sn4k3]

FYI, these are the links you want to look at regarding Ralim's alternative TS100 Firmware:

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100  (Includes features and schematic)

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/releases (Firmware releases)

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues (Feature requests and issues)

+1 on this

[Gyro]

P.S. This somewhat quirky video (stick with it) includes a rather extreme teardown of the TS100 Tip!

[kPATm]

Watched that vid earlier Gyro. I think Im going to pull the trigger on the TS100. I will put the custom firmware on it. I also have a 3d printer and there are some decent Stands for the TS100 so Im just about to start printing one out  :-)

[sn4k3]

Watched that vid earlier Gyro. I think Im going to pull the trigger on the TS100. I will put the custom firmware on it. I also have a 3d printer and there are some decent Stands for the TS100 so Im just about to start printing one out  :-)

Make sure you use ABS or annealed PLA for the stand

[Gyro]

I also have a 3d printer and there are some decent Stands for the TS100 so Im just about to start printing one out  :-)

You might have the odd UK customer there. 

[kPATm]

I only use PLA but I will try it for now sn4k3.

No problem Gyro. If I can help I will

[sn4k3]

I only use PLA but I will try it for now sn4k3.

No problem Gyro. If I can help I will

Regular PLA should work well, but not with all stands out there.
I also dislike ABS, i use PETG.
Original Prusa i3 MK2S user here

[kPATm]

Nice Printer. I would love one of those. Expensive. MP select Mini for me

[sn4k3]

Nice Printer. I would love one of those. Expensive. MP select Mini for me

Is nice but also not perfect, my is already all customized and improved.
Creality3D CR-10 is a very good value or money and quality.
MP select Mini is good too for low sized prints
Currently i'm bulding a HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer


My prusa:

[kPATm]

Now you are showing off ;-)

Yes the CR-10 looks good. Iv watched Tech2c's build on the Hypercube. Very Very nice machine.

The Mini is good but it is small. My 1st printer so I am enjoying it

[sn4k3]

Now you are showing off ;-)

Yes the CR-10 looks good. Iv watched Tech2c's build on the Hypercube. Very Very nice machine.

The Mini is good but it is small. My 1st printer so I am enjoying it

Yeah, i'm also thinking in buy a mini just for small models, because big heatbad have some problems...
My prusa after a month or more ruin all prints because PINDA probe set invalid Z compensation due bed deformation from time, heat and applyed force to remove objects. First layer was a pain, while center always work if move a bit outside center it start to unstick from bed.
A custom firmware mod solve my problem allowing you to set 8 manual points for z compensation. Don't know why they don't push this mod to original firmware, many users use it and get better results than original calibration.
The original firmware allow you to set 4 points, but thats not enought to fix the problem.
As you can see even the expensive things can have problems and not perfect. The good thing about Prusa is the amount of resources and community

[kPATm]

Well. Iv went and done it. Bought the TS100 :-)

Thanks for all the advice everybody. I will be posting a lot more on here

[sn4k3]

Well. Iv went and done it. Bought the TS100 :-)

Thanks for all the advice everybody. I will be posting a lot more on here

Nice Write your review after some testes

[kPATm]

Never really written a review before but I will try. I have time off work for the next few weeks so I may give it a go  Is there an Amperage limit to the PSU that can be used?

[woody]

Not sure what you mean, but the TS100 is max 65W @ 24V. That means that for full power the PSU must be able to supply 65W/24V=2.7A If the PSU cannot meet that: no problem; the heat-up time will be longer.

[sn4k3]

Never really written a review before but I will try. I have time off work for the next few weeks so I may give it a go  Is there an Amperage limit to the PSU that can be used?

No problem, just give your honest opinion, compare with you had before and how it perform. It will help other users in same situation as you to choose something.
Max Amperage not a problem, you can have a 20A PSU, the iron will only draw what it needs and not more. I always recommend a PSU with 1A or 2A more than the device require, because most of the time specs are not real and also is bad to keep the PSU at limit all the time, it will die faster and will be hot, the more amps better colling need to have inside.
In case your PSU don't meet the requirements is what woody said

EDIT: On amazon article they say PSU is 19V, but don't see any amp reference, so you need to check on label when you got it, better if you real check by measuring it. But for sure they include a PSU capable to deliver max power at 19V.
At 19V iron can draw 40W, that means 40W/19V= +/- 2,11A. So the PSU should have 2.5A or more to be safe to get max wattage, but 2A will do the work as well

[kPATm]

The TS100 comes with a PSU now but I have a 20v 2a Laptop battery I could use as a spare?

[sn4k3]

The TS100 comes with a PSU now but I have a 20v 2a Laptop battery I could use as a spare?

You can use any DC charger that fits the TS100 from 12V to 24V.
That 20V 2A will deliver TS100 40W (20V * 2A)

EDIT: That can perform worse that the 19V at 3A. Because the 20V PSU limit is already 40W and that can be actually lower.
Better use 19V with a good Amp margin than a 20V at 2A limit.
But you can test from cold start which PSU perform better

[stj]

the psu must be capable of supplying the required current or it will overheat.
just to clarify.

[kPATm]

Well. I just took delivery of the TS100. Updated the firmware to Ralims version. Plugged the PSU in and nothing :-( No power at all. If I connect it to USB I get the CONFIG screen? Help Please

[sn4k3]

Well. I just took delivery of the TS100. Updated the firmware to Ralims version. Plugged the PSU in and nothing :-( No power at all. If I connect it to USB I get the CONFIG screen? Help Please

If you upgrade TS100 firmware and able to see config maybe the DC charger is bad. Can you test in another?

[kPATm]

I powered it up briefly before the update and it worked fine. Just after the update there appears to be no power. I have tried 2 different PSU's?

[sn4k3]

I powered it up briefly before the update and it worked fine. Just after the update there appears to be no power. I have tried 2 different PSU's?

So if that happen with update maybe firmware fail, try to update again. On my PC it don't work with USB2 ports i had to use USB3 port. In other PCs all USB works just fine. Try to update again with other PC or port.
If still happening please put the original firmware.
To know if firmware was updated a file with .RDY extension must apear at TS100 root directory in DFU mode

[kPATm]

.RDY file appeared after the update. I just tried to power up again with another PSU and it seems to work now. I tried the provided PSU on a Laptop and it doesnt work. It looks like a faulty PSU?

The only PSU I have its a 20v 2amp?

[sn4k3]

.RDY file appeared after the update. I just tried to power up again with another PSU and it seems to work now. I tried the provided PSU on a Laptop and it doesnt work. It looks like a faulty PSU?

The only PSU I have its a 20v 2amp?

It can be, light and cheap crap chinesse psu are bad and not trustable. With a multimeter you can test for voltage, if <19V PSU is bad. Is there any light indicator for PSU?

[kPATm]

There is an indicator on the supplied PSU but I cant say I noticed if it was on when it did work for 2 minutes?

[sn4k3]

Now you have one PSU you can use with it, you can order one and dedicated for the TS100.
I recommend this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-DC-24V-5A-Power-Supply-Charger-Transformer-Adapter-AC110-240V-TO-DC24V-US-EU/32789733696.html

When place order write UK on comment
That will give you the best result and is a high quality PSU

You can also complain with amazon seller and return the PSU for a new replacement, but i recommend buy your own. That already included PSU will be always a cheap crap to make the best profit

[stj]

firstly i think that psu has the wrong plug,
it;s a 2.1mm center pin, isnt the TS100 a 2.5 center pin??

second, any time you see a psu sold for led lighting, be carefull.
they are usually regulated current instead of regulated voltage.
perfect for leds - not for other applications.

[kPATm]

Yes the TS100 is a 2.5mm pin. I used a MM to test the voltage of the PSU and it is dead :-(

I sent the Amazon seller a message about the fault. I dont want to return the Iron as that works fine ( hopefully) but I would hope to get a partial refund or something?

I dont mind using the 20v 2amp PSU I have as long as its safe to do so?

[sn4k3]

firstly i think that psu has the wrong plug,
it;s a 2.1mm center pin, isnt the TS100 a 2.5 center pin??

second, any time you see a psu sold for led lighting, be carefull.
they are usually regulated current instead of regulated voltage.
perfect for leds - not for other applications.

Is TS100 is a common 5.5x2.5. I fixed my post with correct link.
Have one of this and they are voltage regulated, tested with many loads, voltage always fixed. Beside this look original HP PSUs, they are heavy and specs are real. (Maybe used units from scravaging)

[sn4k3]

Yes the TS100 is a 2.5mm pin. I used a MM to test the voltage of the PSU and it is dead :-(

I sent the Amazon seller a message about the fault. I dont want to return the Iron as that works fine ( hopefully) but I would hope to get a partial refund or something?

I dont mind using the 20v 2amp PSU I have as long as its safe to do so?

At max you have to send DC charger back. Or maybe you can open and repair, it can be a cap or a wire, happen to cheap psus many times.
Seller will refund you a small value or send you a new psu. If sent by amazon you have to send it back and postage is refunded too.

That 20V will work fine. If from a laptop it's safe to use

[Gyro]

Damn, that's bad luck! 

I guess as the TS100 manufacturer doesn't source a PSU as standard, the Amazon seller has probably mixed and matched something he has sourced himself. It could be marginal spec (not able to take the peak current), or just plain faulty.

If you can get a partial refund from Amazon you may be better sourcing a second hand genuine laptop PSU cheaply on ebay, something like a genuine Lenovo or HP (I use an old HP one) that has a 3-pin mains connector.

I'm using the latest F/W from Ralim's site (V1.17.1) and can confirm that it is working fine.

I'm not sure what 20V 2A power supply you've got, it should be ok as long as its output doesn't collapse under the initial heat-up current. if it goes into current limit and dips too low (<12V) or goes into foldback protection then the CPU in the TS100 will go into reset.

Do you have a bench PSU that you can use for now? If it's that that is 2A, then just wind down the voltage a little (say, 16V) so that the iron won't draw more than 2A.

BTW. these are the 2.5 x 5.5mm connector and flexible Silicone cable that I am using on mine:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Socket-Male-Female-Barrel-Connector-Multiple-Sizes-Available-/292033926253?var=&hash=item43fe94146d:m:mUesRQQNWhwM4BtX-0CbALg   (The Yellow higher current fork one)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord-/152000411964?hash=item2363ee393c:g:eBcAAOSwll1W1cRU

I hope you can get it sorted with the seller!


EDIT: From a quick search, there are several second hand 18.5V / 19V / 20V  HP / Dell / Toshiba / IBM PSUs on ebay for very little cash (you might want to try a few other search strings too). Worst case you need to change the DC output jack (as above) or better still, patch on the nice Silicone cable too...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=genuine+laptop+psu&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=genuine+laptop+psu&_sacat=0

[kPATm]

I was actually purchased direct from SainSmart and the PSU is a labeled SainSmart also.

Im using a MSI Wind laptop Battery at 20v 2amps. I do have a couple of IMB Laptop Batteries rated at 16v 4.5 amps

Scratch that I just discovered that the IMB laptop charger is faulty as well. BUGGER

Gyro what barrel connector did you get

5.5mm x2.5mm Long,short or forked?

[Gyro]

The Forked one. The length is correct and the forked inner connector gives a better, higher current, contact than the ordinary ones.

P.S. For the <£1 price difference it's worth getting a couple of spares.

[kPATm]

Yip just bought 3 and 2m of cable. Just waiting on my 3d printed stand to finish

[kPATm]

Would I be better using the 16v 4.5 amp PSU?

[Gyro]

Yes, probably for now. The heating power will be lower but you will have the confidence of sufficient current capacity while you're checking that the iron itself is ok.

Ultimately I would aim for a reliable, ie, genuine laptop manufacturer, PSU for it. Don't forget to go for a 3 pin mains input one to ensure that it's output is grounded rather than being subject to Y-cap leakage. I know Lenovo do a 20V 90W one, probably other manufacturers too.

[kPATm]

Iv just ordered the connectors and cable. I will repair the IBM Think Pad PSU (16v 4.5amps) and use that. My only concern is opening the PSU to repair. They are a bit of a pain in the ass to open


Are PSU like this properly grounded? It has the 3 pin mains but it only connects to a 2 pin on the actual PSU?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-ASUS-X5D-X5DC-X5DIJ-X50IJ-X5DIN-Laptop-Charger-AC-Adapter-19V-3-42A-65W-PSU-/292204433271?hash=item4408bdcf77:g:c5EAAOSwAYJZhLkW

[Gyro]

Avoid anything with 'For' in the title - that means it's a cheap Chinese clone!

Go for one with a genuine laptop manufacturer label on it. Even if it's second hand, it will have been built to far higher standard. You'll probably get it cheaper too.

As for repairing the IBM one, yes they are a bit of a pain to open - a bench vise or hammer are generally involved (there's a very recent thread on this). If you're not very careful and know exactly what you're doing, you can severely shock or electrocute yourself in the process! I really don't recommended it. If you're lucky it's just a broken DC output cable - try metering at the DC jack while flexing the cable at each end.

I was referring to PSUs which have a 3 pin mains input connectors at the PSU (either IEC or 'cloverleaf') not 2 pin ones.  In that case the output -ve (DC jack outer) should be grounded. You should be able to measure continuity between the mains input ground pin and the DC jack.

EDIT:As an example of what you should be looking for...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-DELL-20V-2-5A-AC-ADAPTER-PA-8-ORIGINAL-LAPTOP-POWER-SUPPLY-PSU-OR334-/192311827979?hash=item2cc6ad9e0b:g:IPMAAOSw7NNT0q4I

You'll want to shorten the output cable and splice your nice flexible cable and plug anyway.

Another example... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-HP-Laptop-AC-Adaptor-Charger-PSU-239427-001-239704-001-18-5V-3-5A-/302294060743?hash=item4662214ec7:g:XEAAAOSw5UZY~eig

[kPATm]

Im not buying the "For" Asus PSU it was just an example but thats actually a good bit of advice.

Its just the connector on the IBM PSU thats broken. I will just splice the Flexible cable to it. Thanks

[Gyro]

Excellent, that'll save a bit of money then. 

[kPATm]

Well I finally managed to get the stand printed out. Got the 3d model from thingiverse and made some changes. It works well. Will probably add another section for a wet sponge

[sn4k3]

Well I finally managed to get the stand printed out. Got the 3d model from thingiverse and made some changes. It works well. Will probably add another section for a wet sponge

Nice, the only thing is missing on that stand are lateral slots for place the tips 
Something like this:

[kPATm]

Thats a good idea. Im goin to redesign the stand later to accommodate a couple of suction pads. I will also add some tip holders as well.

[sn4k3]

Thats a good idea. Im goin to redesign the stand later to accommodate a couple of suction pads. I will also add some tip holders as well.

Don't forget to share

[kPATm]

Decided to just add some double sided sticky pads to the base. I also used an old drip tip for my vapes to the bottom of the Holder bracket. It works really well. Iron is nice and secure. I might leave the tip holder for now as I like how the Stand is nice and compact as it is. I dont really see me having more than 2 tips anyway?

Do you want the .stl file to print for yourself?

[stj]

get some sticky-back felt pads from Rapid or Morrisons.
maybe even Poundland.

[kPATm]

Iv already put some sticky pads on the base :-)

[sn4k3]

Yes stl files would be nice or publish a remix at original model on thingyverse

[kPATm]

You will need to alter the Iron holder bracket to fit a nut at the bottom. Like I said I used an old drip tip to secure the iron. I could send you the .stl file if you like. Can I do it by Pm?

[sn4k3]

You will need to alter the Iron holder bracket to fit a nut at the bottom. Like I said I used an old drip tip to secure the iron. I could send you the .stl file if you like. Can I do it by Pm?

Sure, please send.
Thank you

[labjr]

For a complete tip information please see this article: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Replacement-Solder-Tip-For-TS100-Digital-LCD-Soldering-Iron-/182720381090
There you can find all avaliable tips, their size and models
I recomend the D24 tip for most of the works



Actualy i found that heat times are bigger than actually is.
My 24V 5A (120W) heat up to 350ºc in just 6s

I'm wondering how the TS100 irons are working out for everyone. Are the tips good quality and do they last? Has anyone compared the TS100 performance and tip quality to those cheap T12 stations that are for sale all over the place?

 

[sn4k3]

I'm wondering how the TS100 irons are working out for everyone. Are the tips good quality and do they last? Has anyone compared the TS100 performance and tip quality to those cheap T12 stations that are for sale all over the place?

For me so far has been great  and tips are better than cheap t12 clone tips, mine t12 tips go dark/oxidized very fast at 350ºc. TS100 fells a lot better in terms of performance. Thats only my opinion 

[stj]

i have been using the same T12 clone tip for a year now and it's not oxidised - infact it's in very good condition.
exellent considering i paid about €3 for it!!!

[bd139]

Same with T12 tips. Quickco ones are good at least.  I run them at 370 constantly.