Author Topic: Recommend high power solder iron? (Read 9672 times)

signal · « **on:** May 31, 2015, 02:24:43 am »

I have a Hakko FX-888D, it works great for most things. When working on larger items though, such as mains coming into power supplies, even with my larger tips and it turned up, its difficult to desolder a large pad. Can someone recommend a good iron that would get at most things that are just out of the range of a FX888?

georges80 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2015, 04:58:33 am »

Metcal 500 station using a 0.2" wide chisel tip provides an impressive amount of heat and the Metcal RF system adjusts to heat demands on the tip from large pads/components VERY quickly.

That's one of the nice features of the Metcal system - you don't need to 'adjust' anything and the system responds very rapidly to thermal demands on the tip. I can't imagine ever going back to a 'regular' soldering iron. Does cost a bunch of $$ to join the club but it's a great long term investment. Been using mine for more than 12 years now - and it gets used a LOT...

cheers,
george.

Someone · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:18:00 am »

The lower frequency (and lower cost) curie point RF systems have plenty of power for big jobs, 60W from the OKI/Metcal PS-900. There is a bit of a dispute about how much the larger stations actually supply Thermaltronics claim 40W from their 9000 series the same as Metcal 500 series, while Metcal claim 80W per channel for the 5000 and 5200 series (which Thermaltronics dispute).

Even soldering solid copper plate, none of the above had any problems.

signal · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:22:12 am »

I am wondering if my FX888 should actually be fine, and I just need to refine my technique. I am desoldering some mains leads into a power supply, and I used braid and a solder sucker to get much of the solder up. But its like I hit a brick wall, can't get any more up. I am going to try adding solder to whats left, so that molten solder will pool and hopefully make good heat transfer to whats left and I can just pull the wire out. These are just mains wires into an Apple MagSafe power supply

TMM · « **Reply #4 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:55:59 am »

Look into how well the tips fit onto the heating element on your current iron too before deciding that you need a more powerful one. You can make a shim out of aluminium foil if the tip is loose on the element.

AndyC_772 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:59:30 am »

The JBC CD-BC solder station is rated at 130W peak, and has a power meter built in so you can see exactly how much is being used at any given time. I bought one last year to replace a Metcal system, and it's fantastic.

I don't think I've ever seen it above about 25% while actually soldering, but I do a lot more small SMT than big power components.

digsys · « **Reply #6 on:** May 31, 2015, 08:14:46 am »

If you want serious power and a huge range of quick change tips, there's no equal to the JBC HD (we have several, including many tip types).
www.jbctools.com/c470-cartridges-product-22-category-9-menu-2.html
You can solder heavy transformer earth straps to small through hole components on 4+4oz. Settable up to 250W and very fast response.
In fact, even the Compact or modular range have so many tips, that you can cover anything you need !

wraper · « **Reply #7 on:** May 31, 2015, 08:36:23 am »

Are the tips for FX-888D genuine Hakko? Non original tips are much worse than genuine ones. Did you bought FX-888D from reputable place? There are more counterfeits than genuine ones sold over the internet.

artag · « **Reply #8 on:** May 31, 2015, 01:22:27 pm »

Metcal are good for this, as others have noted. But I find this one hard to resist, just for it's name :

http://www.somersetsolders.com/heavy-duty-300w-soldering-iron-american-beauty/p122?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4qqrBRDE2K_z7Pbvjo8BEiQA39AImeTkLLjO04TLdH0_2ZxL13cvc8hjXfjLGEOKYfrY0bIaAnnR8P8HAQ

Ian.M · « **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2015, 02:59:23 pm »

The FX888D specs say 70W power consumption so for a significant increase in capabilities you'd want something that can deliver well over 100W at the tip.

If there are a lot of long heavy copper wires in close proximity (e.g. 0V wires at the output of a PC PSU PCB) that were probably assembled by wave soldering, just about any iron will struggle to cope. You also get issues with stuff like heavy copper screening cans. Preheating to the max rated temperature for the most delicate part on the board helps considerably.

Monkeh · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2015, 03:23:04 pm »

Quote from: Ian.M on May 31, 2015, 02:59:23 pm

The FX888D specs say 70W power consumption so for a significant increase in capabilities you'd want something that can deliver well over 100W at the tip.

A 40W Metcal will outperform an FX888D. It's not about how much power you use, it's how much you deliver, and the heater to tip connection in an FX888D is poor in comparison to a Metcal or JBC.

NiHaoMike · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2015, 04:51:15 pm »

Just get a soldering gun for the big stuff.

nanofrog · « **Reply #12 on:** May 31, 2015, 05:46:17 pm »

Given the situation described, an FX-888D should be able to handle that. So I'm thinking along the lines of tip quality, technique, and quality of supplies (wick, ...) sorts of things.

Definitely give the adding some leaded solder to the joints method a try (lowers the melting point of the lead-free stuff used to assemble the PCB).

A solder sucker can be useful as well.

Also make sure the tips fit the heating element (not sloppy); this is one of the reasons why you want genuine Hakko tips, and that you're using a quality wick (Chemtronics, Techspray, Multicore), not an eBay special made in China (genuine Goot is good stuff <from Japan>, but what's found in the US seems to be mostly counterfeit).

signal · « **Reply #13 on:** May 31, 2015, 06:46:56 pm »

Quote from: wraper on May 31, 2015, 08:36:23 am

Are the tips for FX-888D genuine Hakko? Non original tips are much worse than genuine ones. Did you bought FX-888D from reputable place? There are more counterfeits than genuine ones sold over the internet.

I had ordered this bundle from Amazon a few years back:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

signal · « **Reply #14 on:** May 31, 2015, 06:50:20 pm »

Quote from: wraper on May 31, 2015, 08:36:23 am

Are the tips for FX-888D genuine Hakko? Non original tips are much worse than genuine ones. Did you bought FX-888D from reputable place? There are more counterfeits than genuine ones sold over the internet.

These are the tips I ordered:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQARTRQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I fear they are probably not Hakko. If someone wants to link me a good Hakko bundle of tips I can get those to be sure.

wraper · « **Reply #15 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:05:29 pm »

Quote from: signal on May 31, 2015, 06:50:20 pm

These are the tips I ordered:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQARTRQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I fear they are probably not Hakko. If someone wants to link me a good Hakko bundle of tips I can get those to be sure.

They are cheap junk.

signal · « **Reply #16 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:22:46 pm »

Well I will quickly address my cheap junk tips. I am wondering if Hakko has a good starter pack of tips.

Can someone recommend a repuatable package or source so I know I am getting real Hakko?

On a positive side note, adding solder back into the pad worked GREAT! As soon as I got it hot and fed some solder back in, it pooled and liquified everything on the pad, I pulled the wire right out, and then followed up with a nice sized conical tip to go through the hole and cleaned it all up. So seems like my iron is good I just need to get some quality tips.

janaf · « **Reply #17 on:** May 31, 2015, 07:29:52 pm »

I've got a IKO Metcal PS-900 and can't remember ever needing more power.

Some things I like:
- No settings. The curie stuff takes care of that.
- The heater element is right out by the tip, ie not much power is lost and the tip does not cool down while soldering. I almost only use short tips. They may look a bit clumsy but are imo not. Never had problems with that.
- The solder headpiece is light
- My tips for lead-free solder temperature but I use almost only leaded solder. Heats up fast, maybe too fast for some...
- The 900 are decently priced, tips too.

The only thing I have against it is that there is no tweezers for it so I have to have another set for that.

I have a JBC too but almost never used because I'm happy with the PS-900 and have more tips for it.

nanofrog · « **Reply #18 on:** May 31, 2015, 08:00:11 pm »

Quote from: signal on May 31, 2015, 07:22:46 pm

Well I will quickly address my cheap junk tips. I am wondering if Hakko has a good starter pack of tips.

Can someone recommend a repuatable package or source so I know I am getting real Hakko?

On a positive side note, adding solder back into the pad worked GREAT! As soon as I got it hot and fed some solder back in, it pooled and liquified everything on the pad, I pulled the wire right out, and then followed up with a nice sized conical tip to go through the hole and cleaned it all up. So seems like my iron is good I just need to get some quality tips.

This should get you started.

Chisels: (T18 series)

T18-D16 (1.6mm)
T18-D24 (2.4mm)
T18-D32 (3.2mm)

There is one wider (T18-S3, which is 5.2mm), should you need it at some later date.

Drag soldering: (900M series, but they do fit; this shape isn't offered in T18)

900M-T-2CM (getting rather hard to find; only seller I know is still willing to carry them is located in Italy, and is a member here)
900M-T-3CM (if you get only one, get this one)

Others I find useful are a single fine point conical for tacking down corner pins on IC's, bent conical (for drawing out a bridge from drag soldering or very fine point-to-point on IC's <attaching bodge wire to IC pin>), and bent chisels. Not a massive number even added up (one of each conical, possibly two chisels).

Hakko's Tip Selection Page might also be really helpful.

PM sent.

signal · « **Reply #19 on:** May 31, 2015, 09:17:00 pm »

Quote from: nanofrog on May 31, 2015, 08:00:11 pm

PM sent.

nanofrog, I am showing no PM's

nanofrog · « **Reply #20 on:** May 31, 2015, 10:57:30 pm »

Quote from: signal on May 31, 2015, 09:17:00 pm

nanofrog, I am showing no PM's

Got distracted making a pot roast (mmm...

).

PM definitely sent this time.

LabSpokane · « **Reply #21 on:** June 01, 2015, 05:31:28 am »

Kimco has good prices on genuine Hakko tips and free shipping.

http://gokimco.com/specials-sales-free-shipping-new/free-shipping/hakko.html

pickle9000 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 01, 2015, 05:58:57 am »

Everyone should have a stained glass iron 80watt is common but you can get 250watt without much trouble. 1/4 to 1/2 inch chisel tips (beat that). and can solder wire as big as the tip. Not to mention stained glass. Heating time 5-7 minutes (yes minutes)

These things are a riot and they are good for stained glass as well. I have also done copper sheet and so on. If you need massive heat on a source these are the way to go.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=stained+glass+soldering+iron+watt&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=zvJrVY-GIMLaoAT04IOADw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1214&bih=631&dpr=1.25

RobertoLG · « **Reply #23 on:** June 01, 2015, 06:45:36 am »

Tomahawk soldering iron 320 watts

pickle9000 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 01, 2015, 06:49:29 am »

Quote from: RobertoLG on June 01, 2015, 06:45:36 am

Tomahawk soldering iron 320 watts

nice


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Author Topic: Recommend high power solder iron? (Read 9672 times)

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