Suitable Solder wire. Thoughts please

[kPATm]

Im finally starting to get my gear sorted for home use. Mostly just repairs and such. I have most things I need but Im now looking at what some would say is the most crucial part...the solder wire.

I know less than nothing about this tbh but from what Iv read Im looking for 63/37 Leaded solder. Im in the UK so something easily sourced from here would be better.

So what are your recommendations please. I am on a tight budget. Thanks

[bd139]

I buy rolls of this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222265194619

Not too expensive in 110g quantities. Really nice solder. it's the proper multicore branded stuff, not cheap crap.

[Ian.M]

If you are repairing consumer electronics manufactured for sale in the EU after the implementation of the RoHS directive, it will be Pb-free, and you should use similar solder to avoid an increased risk of bad joints.   I would recommend getting some SAC305 solder (Sn96.5%/Ag3.0%/Cu0.5%) for such repair work.

Also get some flux - for many types of work its even more important than the solder.  Personally I favour liquid Rosin (R) flux, but many prefer gel fluxes rather than liquid fluxes or synthetics rather than natural Rosin, or a more active flux like a RMA grade one.  Avoid acid fluxes, chloride fluxes and water washable fluxes, as residual traces can corrode tracks and component leads.

[kPATm]

I actually found a roll in my drawer from god knows how many years ago. The label is mostly worn but I can make out Fry's Metal and I think its Leaded solder about .7mm?

[bd139]

As long as it’s got a rosin flux core you’re good.

[kPATm]

Hmm. How can I test that?

[bd139]

Melt some (quite a lot) onto something and have a look. Should be clear Coca Cola coloured and hard flux residue that powders when you scrape it  Also you know the smell if you’ve been doing it long enough

[kPATm]

I dont have any sense of smell. Will try the visual inspection

[sn4k3]

What kind of work you do?
For small SMD you need 0.2mm or 0.4mm diameter
For Through hole and large things 1mm is fine
I always have: 0.2mm + 0.4mm + 1mm + 2.5mm as i work with multiple things -- 2.5mm is to clean large bga

You have many good brands, but keep in mind there are a lot of cheap solder on eBay imported from china and thats not good.
Solder i use: Interflux Low Residue No Clean Solder Wire 1.0mm 500g - IF 14: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Interflux-Low-Residue-No-Clean-Solder-Wire-1-0mm-500g-IF-14-/263188284606

And some good japan solder (Wit): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Japan-WiT-Brand-500g-Solder-Wire-For-Solder-Iron-Low-Melting-Temperature-Non-halogen-Non-corrosive/32658991251.html

Different people will recommend different brands, most brands they experience and like. All of them is OK if the feedback is good.
Also don't forget some flux. Interflux have good ones (IF8000 series)
http://www.interflux.com/en/soldering-fluxes

Also grab flux depending on your work needs

[kPATm]

Its really on hobby stuff. I do some work on my 3d printer mostly

[sn4k3]

Its really on hobby stuff. I do some work on my 3d printer mostly

If hobby you can go 1mm solder it is ok even for medium SMDs
Get some flux, and some flux cleaner or IPA

[kPATm]

Been hunting about all day. I bought a good quality flux pen back in the day when I was messing with PS3's and XBox 360's

[KL27x]

many prefer gel fluxes rather than liquid fluxes or synthetics rather than natural Rosin, or a more active flux like a RMA grade one.

Liquid rosin flux is very versatile. For quickly spot-flooding pads, I use a syringe with a large diameter plastic needle plugged with a bit of cotton. For pin-point rework, I have a "rosin board" where I pick up solder among other things. On one corner of it, I squirt a little fresh rosin when I need some "gel."  The solvent mixes and softens the old rosin that has built up on this spot from repeated use. I can dab a sharpened stick or chisel right into it to get a tiny glob.

Rosin is a pretty good glue, too. It's like nature's hot snot.

[bd139]

To be clear you don’t need to use additional flux that often if at all if you’re doing through hole stuff. Some of the applications of flux seem to be semi religious as if the components need to be baptised before they work. In fact I can actually do SMD soldering without it. The point at which it makes things easier is rework.

[KL27x]

In fact I can actually do SMD soldering without it. The point at which it makes things easier is rework.

Anyone can do SMD soldering without extra flux... by cleaning off the tip of the iron, putting it on the joint, and then feeding solderwire into the joint. But then you have to tack a pin, somehow, because the SMD parts don't stay put by themselves.

The point at which it makes things easier is rework.

Sure, it can be useful for rework. But in general, the more SMD you do, the more you might realize it's not religion or personal preference. It's just a matter of efficiency. Using flux, appropriately, you can do certain things faster and with less effort. When hacking together a circuit one bit at a time, making things up as you go, adding one component every ten minutes, it doesn't matter as much. When you design a large board in CAD and populate it, flux might not be strictly necessary... but you might be doing it the hard way.

I can solder anything that I would ever need to solder with just a radioshack firestarter (and a file) and solderwire. I could take pride in that, I suppose. But to suggest to someone that they don't need to bother with flux is insanity.

Before I finally ponied up for my first bottle of proper rosin flux, I used the plumbers flux from the hardware store. (It took some years before I learned where you shouldn't use it; even cleaning with hot water and a toothbrush, you can't use it on steel/iron without causing rust!) You can buy 4 oz (or maybe 8 oz?) bottles of rosin flux from Alphametals or from MG Chemicals. That will last a good while for the average joe. But even a 1 L bottle of MG RA is only 25.00.

Cost is another thing to consider. Before I started using flux, I wasted a lot more solder, adding it to coldish joints just to get the flux out of it. Cleaning the iron tip from cold solder. A significant portion of the solder I used ended up going into the trash, either swept off the floor or out of my brass wool tip cleaner. At $12-20 per 1 lb roll of solder, and 25.00 for a liter of flux, flux ends up saving money. A liter of RA flux can get you through 10-20 lbs of solder, potentially saving more money than it costs. Unless you are buying the $30.00 syringes of special sauce.