T12 Soldering Iron Clone Kit

[don.r]

Just received my AliExpress KSGER T12 soldering iron clone kit. Has anyone else built this kit? I may post some pictures up if there is interest. I noticed already that the PE connection has no Y caps to N or L and that it basically stops at the PSU input (case is plastic). The PE connection on the iron is just NC (although I haven't confirmed with continuity yet, it looks most likely that it is not connected).

[pigrew]

I have a similar unit (pre-assembled). I just verified that it doesn't have a good ground connection. They tried at grounding the aluminum case, but paint on the case prevented an electrical connection.

I'll edit this post later and add photos of my unit.

Don.l, perhaps you could post photos of your kit?

EDIT: Photos added of pre-assembled kit (with modifications: Extra ground wire to the iron connector's shell, and ground off the coating from the case in order to allow electrical contact)

[don.r]

PSU shows no Y caps on inputs and ground connection ends at input where its connected to the plastic case. Front panel board has a ground connection going to the tip but is unconnected at the board. 

[pigrew]

I added photos to my previous post. My board is a "F Wxk T12-D". It's correct that there is only an X cap and no Y caps. The power-board GND terminal isn't connected. There's an extra wire going from the power-input's GND to the controller PCB's COM. Through that connection, the tip is earthed. I added an extra wire to ground the shell of the connector. The unit has a sheet of plastic insulator at the top of the case (prevents shorts if the power supply becomes loose in the unit?).

The COM/GND connection on the controller PCB is just a solder-blob. There were not enough pads for all of the COM wires so they just solder-blobed it together. Even still, I measure less than 1 ohm (approx 0.95?) from the end of my power cord to the soldering iron tip.

My unit has just a basic power-connector on the back, though I've seen photos of a "T12-A" model with an integrated power-inlet that has a fuse.

Also, the ring-connector at the back of the unit was soldered together (I think that it's supposed to be crimped?). There was so much paint/annodization that there was no contact to the aluminum case. I ground off the coating so that my case now has a good ground connection.

Overall, the soldering iron works well enough, though the OLED display is quite dim through the plastic front-panel. I may 3D-print a new front-cover with a simple cutout for the display.

[stj]

unless it uses a 3core cable with earth on it, you dont want Y caps because it will make your iron live at 50% of line voltage!

[pigrew]

unless it uses a 3core cable with earth on it, you dont want Y caps because it will make your iron live at 50% of line voltage!

The unit comes with a 3-conductor power port (IEC C6 Mickey-Mouse type). Since I got mine on Taobao, it came with a Chinese-style plug.

Perhaps they assumed that the grounds would not be wired properly, so they didn't want to provide the Y capacitor? However, I would imagine that the parasitic capacitance in the transformer may create the same effect to some extent.

The power-supply does have a position to install the Y-capacitors, they just didn't load them. Though, they share a pad with the fuse, so I'm not sure that both a fuse and pair of Y-caps could be installed simultaneously.

[don.r]

I just installed a pair of Y caps under the board. Just to be clear, there is already an existing Y cap going from secondary negative to primary neutral. I really like the PSU actually. Lots of good clearances, spark gaps on the board and parts where they need to be (apart from the missing Y caps which is not a big deal) like a dual input choke, an NTC thermistor inrush limiter and an X cap on the input. Lots of filtering including a coil on the output. Ripple seems very low. The proximity of the caps next to the heatsinks isn't the best. My IEC has an integral fuse and switch.

The lack of PE to the iron tip is just stupid. I added a wire from earth on the PSU input to the tip E wire (green wire). The fit and finish on the plastic case is a joke, stick to the metal case for a few dollars more.

Mounting the iron socket to the front panel is proving to be a challenge as they soldered the connector on and its too big to fit through the opening and to take the mounting nut and washer off. At any rate the mounting hole is too small for the socket anyway. Dremel time. The knob is also too tall and when the board is rotary encoder is mounted, the push button no longer works because the knob stops at the face plate. Minor niggles but still irritating.

[pigrew]

I just installed a pair of Y caps under the board. I really like the PSU actually. Lots of good clearances and parts where they need to be (apart from the missing Y caps which is not a big deal). A dual input choke and an X cap on the input. Lots of filtering including a coil on the output. Ripple seems very low. The proximity of the caps next to the heatsinks isn't the best.

The lack of PE to the iron tip is just stupid. I added a wire from earth on the PSU input to the tip E wire (green wire). The fit and finish on the plastic case is a joke, stick to the metal case for a few dollars more.

Mounting the iron socket to the front panel is proving to be a challenge as they soldered the connector on and its too big to fit through the opening and to take the mounting nut and washer off. At any rate the mounting hole is too small for the socket anyway. Dremel time. The knob is also too tall and when the board is rotary encoder is mounted, the push button no longer works because the knob stops at the face plate. Minor niggles but still irritating.

How do you choose the value of the Y capacitor?

I might not add them since I don't want to deal with digging all the potting compound off of the board. I'll definitely design a new front panel. I have the version without the two LEDs. I think the new "T12-A" boards have the extra power light. I wish the firmware would allow brightness adjustment, but mine doesn't (at least in English; I didn't check the Chinese menus....).

[don.r]

Since they are on the inputs before the choke its not too critical and only to suppress noise. I had some 220nf 400V ones kicking about so I used those. They properly need to be after the choke but meh...

[don.r]

Kit is now all together and works fine. Plastic case has really poor fitting of boards. Had to snip off a corner of the front panel circuit board to make things fit. Bottom line, stick to the metal case. Other than that the iron works great. Heats really quickly. Temp comes in at about 20C below reading but I probably have to run the tip in for a few minutes to get a more accurate reading. Iron goes to sleep (200C) and wakes up with a shake. Its 300C in about 5-10 seconds.

Good:    - PSU
             - Iron itself
             - Price (I paid about US$40 delivered, kit + 4 tips, no power cord)

Bad:      - Tip grounding. Tip earth and negative are connected on the front panel board but with no ground connection to PE, this is pointless. Clearly they designed this with a metal case in mind so that the rotary encoder would ground everything.
             - Case fit/finish and plastic quality.
             - Pre-wiring of pencil socket makes assembly more difficult.
             - Rotary encoder knob too deep.

tl;dr: decent product but get the metal case version.

[kt315]

I was looking at this kit at some point as well. The thing that left me really puzzled is that all those listings show 220v as input. Does the power supply work with 120v or is it a different kit? If so, can you send the link.

[pigrew]

I was looking at this kit at some point as well. The thing that left me really puzzled is that all those listings show 220v as input. Does the power supply work with 120v or is it a different kit? If so, can you send the link.

The one I have (prebuilt and purchased in China) works fine with 120V. These all use switching supplies that will adapt to the full range of input voltages.

Worst case, you'll need a larger amperage fuse (120V will use more current than 220), but mine came with a plenty high rated fuse (soldered to the board, of unknown amperage).

[ciccio]

I built a similar kit, bought on Banggood.
I did not include a power supply, so I got one from Banggood.
The supplied palstic case was too small, so i put everything inside an Hammond case I had on a shelf.
The soldering iron works very well, but if I wire the the tip's ground pin  to PE (and the case) the display become unstable.
The instruction provided are not up-to-date: they show two wires for powering the board, but in effect there are three wires: red (positive) black (negative) and a green one that is connected to tip ground pin.
I presume this is intended for tip grounding.
In any case if I ground the tip I have an unstable display.
I tested again with my bench DC power supply, thus replacing the Chines board, but it is still unstable.
I see that the OP reports that TIP and negative are connected on the main PCB. It is not my case, they are separated.
If I connect them togheter, the display is unstable.
For now I have no time for further testing, and I'll keep the station with ungrounded tip...

[Chris56000]

Hi!

Is/was the T12 an O.S.H.W. project with documentation/gerbers available, and can you get blank PCBs, or have the Chinese made them so cheap it's not worthwhile to "roll your own?"

Chris Williams

[stj]

there are many T12 projects / controllers.

the best are open-source.
th TS100 and this:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175#p61175

[sn4k3]

there are many T12 projects / controllers.

the best are open-source.
th TS100 and this:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175#p61175

+1 for that opensource station. but BOM is hard and not so cheap

[sn4k3]

I built a similar kit, bought on Banggood.
I did not include a power supply, so I got one from Banggood.
The supplied palstic case was too small, so i put everything inside an Hammond case I had on a shelf.
The soldering iron works very well, but if I wire the the tip's ground pin  to PE (and the case) the display become unstable.
The instruction provided are not up-to-date: they show two wires for powering the board, but in effect there are three wires: red (positive) black (negative) and a green one that is connected to tip ground pin.
I presume this is intended for tip grounding.
In any case if I ground the tip I have an unstable display.
I tested again with my bench DC power supply, thus replacing the Chines board, but it is still unstable.
I see that the OP reports that TIP and negative are connected on the main PCB. It is not my case, they are separated.
If I connect them togheter, the display is unstable.
For now I have no time for further testing, and I'll keep the station with ungrounded tip...

Recently i got a kit that does same thing as you and i think we are using same kit STC 2017.
But if i use a external DC adaptor it work well.
My tests are:

Green -> AC Earth (Unstable Display)
Green -> AC Earth + GND (Stable, but temperatures not good if set more than 350ºc, ex: 400ºc turn in 360ºc real)
Green -> External Adaptor GND (Stable, temperatures seens to work a bit better, but not in the point)

Tomorrow i will test more
Heres my connections:



I also test for amp consumption. Just 2.5A max at 24v... should be 3A if we follow the specs

[sn4k3]

I was able to fix the problem, in my case the default wires are not good enough...
I used thick wire for AC and 20AWG to DC connections, get away from 3 pin header and all other headers and solder directly to the boards.
It fixed all problems, unstable LCD was from wires and connections.

I shorted Earth to GND, all good now and temp go up to 450ºc. Before just 360ºC-380ºC max

[stj]

so the element caused volt-drop?
interesting - that could cause problems over time in other similar units if the connectors start warming up!

[sn4k3]

so the element caused volt-drop?
interesting - that could cause problems over time in other similar units if the connectors start warming up!

Probably but there are other factors too, provided cables can be enough for 24V and 3A it looks to me a AWG24. But i suggest to replace it anyway to a better and thick cable like AWG22 or AWG20 for a lower resistence and use quality ones. I also replace because i need more length.
For AC i used a pure cooper thick cable, maybe AWG18, may be overkill but it also have good isolation.

The main problem is the XH2.54 connector, it seens a bit loose, and renember they don't solder wire to clips, they smash wire against the clip, so is a bad connection all the time. Get rid of it and directly solder everything like me 

[stj]

2.54mm pitch connectors are not suitable for high current, they should have used 3.96mm stuff.

[sn4k3]

2.54mm pitch connectors are not suitable for high current, they should have used 3.96mm stuff.

Yeah, but the problem would continue even if they use bigger terminals, the copper wire smashed against the clip is not a good conductor.
I will post a image latter

[sn4k3]

My setup:














Last image is provided cables for connectors

[ciccio]

Thanks sn4k3: I follower your advice (partly) and the station  works really better.
I actually soldered two pieces of 0.75 mm2 wire, one to the + and the other to earth an minus pads (shorted)  of the board connector (as per your photo), and kept the original 3 thin wires, two (red + black)  in parallel to the new ones, wired to the power supply and one (green) to metal case and PE.
Now the display is stable up to more than 400 °C.
I also shorted the negative and earth pads inside the handpiece, to get a lower resistance (-25%) of the wiring to the heater.

Maybe the circuit tracks to the handpiece connector are too thin, but I do not want to disassemble the board for checking, and eventually solder thick wires over those tracks...

[sn4k3]

Thanks sn4k3: I follower your advice (partly) and the station  works really better.
I actually soldered two pieces of 0.75 mm2 wire, one to the + and the other to earth an minus pads (shorted)  of the board connector (as per your photo), and kept the original 3 thin wires, two (red + black)  in parallel to the new ones, wired to the power supply and one (green) to metal case and PE.
Now the display is stable up to more than 400 °C.
I also shorted the negative and earth pads inside the handpiece, to get a lower resistance (-25%) of the wiring to the heater.

Maybe the circuit tracks to the handpiece connector are too thin, but I do not want to disassemble the board for checking, and eventually solder thick wires over those tracks...

I'm glad to help 
If you want futher improve you need a better cable to the handpiece, the cables are to thin, but if you go thicker cable will be heavy and bulky.
I think PCB is OK, they may develop that to meet the specs, even provided cables are thicker than handpiece cores, and they are ok to support the current, you just need to direct solder and get rid of connectors which you already done. Now the bottleneck is on handpiece cable.
I don't have a proper metter to test the cable under stress and it resistance but i suspect the results will not be that good

But with all that improvements i think it's already good, stable temperature up to 400ºc. Fast recovery. Don't need more than that anyway. Also the price we pay for these things are a bless

EDIT: I will get detailed picture of control board and post for track inspection

[stj]

why do you have what looks like a low-voltage power inlet on the back??
btw, those cant handle more than about 2a before the contacts burn - i learned that the hard way.

[sn4k3]

Control Board:

[sn4k3]

why do you have what looks like a low-voltage power inlet on the back??
btw, those cant handle more than about 2a before the contacts burn - i learned that the hard way.

What is the connector you talking about? the AC IN connector?

[stj]

next to the mains inlet.

[sn4k3]

next to the mains inlet.

The DC jack?
It's a standard DC jack, i have cut and bent the pins to better fit. Still i don't use external psu. Is just there to fill the gap.

[thm_w]

2.54mm pitch connectors are not suitable for high current, they should have used 3.96mm stuff.

JST XH is rated for 3A, 10-20mOhm, it should be OK.
Of course that is assuming they used the correct gauge wire, crimps, and properly crimped them..

[leonerd]

I've just built up one of these kits - mine was from AliExpress -
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T12-KU-ILS-B2-BC2-STM32-2-1S-OLED-Station-Case-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-220v-70w/32788177785.html and came with a PSU and metal case, including a custom milled aluminium front panel.

I have to say I'm impressed with the build quality of this one. I haven't suffered any of the issues people further up mention about bad fitting of the plastic case. I did have to drill mounting holes for the PSU myself, but I kindof expected that out of a DIY kit. I'll get some teardown (or are they buildup?) photos and attach them here tomorrow.

Mine does seem to suffer the same problem that everyone else cites, with the lack of earth connection through to the metal front panel and hence to the rotary encoder or the PE line of the socket to the soldering tip itself. This does make it fail electrical safety so currently I'm not actually using it yet. I'll probably get around to adding a link cable directly onto the back socket - though I've seen some people put a 1M resistor in there so it's ESD-safe without being a direct short to earth, thus making it much less problematic to work on powered-up equipment. What does anyone think?

[sn4k3]

I've just built up one of these kits - mine was from AliExpress -
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T12-KU-ILS-B2-BC2-STM32-2-1S-OLED-Station-Case-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-220v-70w/32788177785.html and came with a PSU and metal case, including a custom milled aluminium front panel.

I have to say I'm impressed with the build quality of this one. I haven't suffered any of the issues people further up mention about bad fitting of the plastic case. I did have to drill mounting holes for the PSU myself, but I kindof expected that out of a DIY kit. I'll get some teardown (or are they buildup?) photos and attach them here tomorrow.

Mine does seem to suffer the same problem that everyone else cites, with the lack of earth connection through to the metal front panel and hence to the rotary encoder or the PE line of the socket to the soldering tip itself. This does make it fail electrical safety so currently I'm not actually using it yet. I'll probably get around to adding a link cable directly onto the back socket - though I've seen some people put a 1M resistor in there so it's ESD-safe without being a direct short to earth, thus making it much less problematic to work on powered-up equipment. What does anyone think?

Did you measure real temperature with a external device?
I still see connectors and crimped wires, so i still recommend to direct solder everything. Even if you think it's ok you will improve your equipement futher by do so

[leonerd]

Did you measure real temperature with a external device?

I'm not really sure how is best to make precise measurements of it - I don't have one of those dedicated solder tip thermometers. I have a K-type thermocouple and a meter that's itself waaaay past calibration, and I have a non-contact IR thermometer that isn't so good for fine points, more just areas.

[sn4k3]

Did you measure real temperature with a external device?

I'm not really sure how is best to make precise measurements of it - I don't have one of those dedicated solder tip thermometers. I have a K-type thermocouple and a meter that's itself waaaay past calibration, and I have a non-contact IR thermometer that isn't so good for fine points, more just areas.

K-Type will do:

• Clean iron tip well
• Tin tip with a good amount of solder
• Put the head of the probe in the tip where the melt solder is
• Wait utill temperature stabilize
• This should gave you a good temperature value (It work for me with same temperature as tip meter equipement)

Test under 300ºc, 350ºc and 400ºc with a medium tip, don't use round tips or small ones.
If your measure are correct at 300ºc and 350ºc but can't reach the 400ºc you need to improve your station wires, you can even try at 450ºc but not important to reach that temperature

As calibration try to find the offset of it and see if offset is always the same in different temperature ranges

See this for cheap meters: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/(tip)-best-budgetcheap-soldering-stations-and-tools/
Is always usefull to have them and not break your bank, never trust DIY default calibration, even expensive stations sometimes need calibration, my ersa come with a offset of 10ºc. Thats huge for me.

[TT_Vert]

Hey guys I have a quick question for you on this.  Can anyone tell me what the purpose of the bottom right temp setting is (See my pic)?  It is tied to the thermistor in the handle but I have no idea what value this provides, if any.  Also what does changing the tip setting in the software accomplish?

[sn4k3]

Hey guys I have a quick question for you on this.  Can anyone tell me what the purpose of the bottom right temp setting is (See my pic)?  It is tied to the thermistor in the handle but I have no idea what value this provides, if any.  Also what does changing the tip setting in the software accomplish?

That temperature should be the ambient temperature, please check.
Tip selection is usefull because different tips have different masses, and heat performance will vary, so you can set offsets per tip, eg: you set station to 350ºc but with offsets you can change temperature just for that tip +5ºc because you know 350ºc will be like 345ºc using that tip for example. Usefull for large tips and tiny tips.

Also i notice you working with 480ºc? That will kill tips very fast... If 350ºc can't do the job you may need to calibrate the station

[TT_Vert]

What is the purpose of ambient temp?  I have confirmed that the bottom right temp does change when I apply heat to the thermistor but does it serve any purpose?  Just to tell you that the ID of the handle may be a tad warm?  It'll never be as high as the tip temp in fact I think it probably will only sway 10C or so from being stationary to being held. 

So there is a setting within this unit to set temp offset on a per tip basis?  Do you have a tip temp measurement device so you can accurately set this?  I see no other way to modify any temp offset.  Have you, or anyone else, come across a manual for this thing and what all of it's settings do?

BTW, that's just a stock photo I modified to display what I was asking.  My iron is not working as they sent me a tip holder w/ a broken + tab at the heater element so I'm waiting for that.  And also looking for one local but no luck there yet.

Thanks much

Dave

[Nusa]

Do you have a tip temp measurement device so you can accurately set this?

Look for "solder tip thermometer" on your favorite sites if you want a purpose-built device.
Or you can use a meter that has a thermocouple probe.
Or you can use the known melting point of whatever solder you use to calibrate at that temperature.

[TT_Vert]

Ah yes I do have a temp probe for my meter I forgot.  I'm unsure how accurate that is and itf it'll accept that hot a temp but i'll give that a go.

Dave

[labjr]

Has anyone compared the T12 iron kit to the TS100 portable iron. Thermal performance etc. I've read good things about the TS100. I'm wondering if the T12 works as well. I'm also wondering about tip life and quality. Seems like the TS100 tips are good quality. Not sure about the T12 tips?

[TuxKey]

Hi everyone ..

Wanted to know if anyone has any experience with this T12 cloon unit..
(i felt this could be a good second option that fits in this topic)

What i like about it is the following:

1) no assembly required , simple unit looks like the control board and that's it.
2) providing your own good quality power supply feels much saver then using a cheap one from China.
3) the seller assures me that the connection is 5.5*2.5 so you could use the same power brick of a TS100
4) seller assures me the unit is esd save / the tip is grounded..
5) seems to be compatible with original Hakko T12 tips .. (if i understand the Russian vid correctly)

Main problem i have with the TS100 is that the TS-D24 chisel tip is to big. i have seen people use T12 tips on the TS100 but i'm a bit unsure about doing this as i heard the mosfet of the TS100 is sensitive..

here is the product link on AliExpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KSGER-Aluminum-Alloy-Handle-T12-STM32-OLED-Soldering-Iron-Station-V3-0-DIY-Electric-Tools-Stings/32878522554.html

[sn4k3]

Hi everyone ..

Wanted to know if anyone has any experience with this T12 cloon unit..
(i felt this could be a good second option that fits in this topic)

What i like about it is the following:

1) no assembly required , simple unit looks like the control board and that's it.
2) providing your own good quality power supply feels much saver then using a cheap one from China.
3) the seller assures me that the connection is 5.5*2.5 so you could use the same power brick of a TS100
4) seller assures me the unit is esd save / the tip is grounded..
5) seems to be compatible with original Hakko T12 tips .. (if i understand the Russian vid correctly)

Main problem i have with the TS100 is that the TS-D24 chisel tip is to big. i have seen people use T12 tips on the TS100 but i'm a bit unsure about doing this as i heard the mosfet of the TS100 is sensitive..

here is the product link on AliExpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KSGER-Aluminum-Alloy-Handle-T12-STM32-OLED-Soldering-Iron-Station-V3-0-DIY-Electric-Tools-Stings/32878522554.html

3) That is almost always true
4) That is not so true, you always need dissemble and check, but with that unit you will not have grounded tip, because you lack of earth connection, DC jack only have + and -, seller is maybe refering to GND, tip is connected to GND but that is not the same as earthed. At best you need to connect GND to Earth on the PSU
5) They are.

You can use T12 tips with TS100 with a small 3d printed part. Don't know if recent units have the mosfet problem but so far i haven't seen any on the units i use or sell.

I don't know why that station is so expensive, maybe because of the handle? Never seen or tried that handle but it can make the difference.

Please note that TS100 is not earthed either at best they are connected to GND, and is only ESD safe if you use the screw and a power supply with the earth connected to GND.

About TS100 tips you can try the 2mm conical tip B2, or TS-I, they are good for small things

[TuxKey]

3) That is almost always true
4) That is not so true, you always need dissemble and check, but with that unit you will not have grounded tip, because you lack of earth connection, DC jack only have + and -, seller is maybe refering to GND, tip is connected to GND but that is not the same as earthed. At best you need to connect GND to Earth on the PSU
5) They are.

You can use T12 tips with TS100 with a small 3d printed part. Don't know if recent units have the mosfet problem but so far i haven't seen any on the units i use or sell.

I don't know why that station is so expensive, maybe because of the handle? Never seen or tried that handle but it can make the difference.

Please note that TS100 is not earthed either at best they are connected to GND, and is only ESD safe if you use the screw and a power supply with the earth connected to GND.

About TS100 tips you can try the 2mm conical tip B2, or TS-I, they are good for small things

Thanks for your help sn4k3.
a while back i saw Louis Rossmann review the TS100 and he mentioned the Grip for Hakko tips.
but i was afraid i would damage the mosfet.. still there is a way to replace it if it does.. but then i would need a second iron hahaha..
here is the thingverse link for the 3d printed part.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2739632

i downloaded the file and uploaded it to shapeways.com because they also ship from The Netherlands..
so that could be an option.

about the grounded part. i just returned a power supply i bought for my TS100 because it was not grounded.
i heard people call it "floating psu". i'm going to order a new one from Mean well "GSM90A24-P1M" that one should be ok..
the spec sheet says "-V connected to AC FG" it's a 24V 3.75A.. so the - minus will be grounded in that unit.

so this unit has a minus that goes to the dc jack i'm ok..
for my TS100 i was planning to follow the example of Rooster.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-doesn_t-function-properly-when-earthed/msg1493014/#msg1493014

about the price of the unit.. i could get the one with the plastic blue handle that one costs €32,22 instead of the €48,42 but i thought €16 for a nice handle why not..
here's the plastic one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32850601075.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.221a2e0ealCBe5

To make the TS100 compatible with T12 tips i would need the following.
1) Hakko sleeve  in the Netherlands  that would cost me €7,50 + €9 shipping = €16,50 (second option would be via china)
2) 3d printed part shapeways $5 plus $6 shipping  = €11

So in total i would spend €27,50 for that upgrade..i'm afraid that ordering the sleeve from china (aliexpress) it would not fit as good

[sn4k3]

a while back i saw Louis Rossmann review the TS100 and he mentioned the Grip for Hakko tips.
but i was afraid i would damage the mosfet.. still there is a way to replace it if it does.. but then i would need a second iron hahaha..
here is the thingverse link for the 3d printed part.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2739632

I don't know the both tip resistance, but if they are the same or T12 have a higher resistance that would not be a problem.

about the grounded part. i just returned a power supply i bought for my TS100 because it was not grounded.
i heard people call it "floating psu". i'm going to order a new one from Mean well "GSM90A24-P1M" that one should be ok..
the spec sheet says "-V connected to AC FG" it's a 24V 3.75A.. so the - minus will be grounded in that unit.

Carefull with fakes, if buy from reputable source then no problem.

so this unit has a minus that goes to the dc jack i'm ok..
for my TS100 i was planning to follow the example of Rooster.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-doesn_t-function-properly-when-earthed/msg1493014/#msg1493014

Thats a good thing to do, flexible cable is the best mod  you can do on ts100.
I'm selling ready to use power unit for 2 TS100 but maybe out of your budget: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183179397286
It's also Earted with V- but i can deliver with that clip to attach to TS100 ESD screw and T12 adaptor

about the price of the unit.. i could get the one with the plastic blue handle that one costs €32,22 instead of the €48,42 but i thought €16 for a nice handle why not..
here's the plastic one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32850601075.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.221a2e0ealCBe5

Go with op handle, i have that plastic handle and other clone and i don't really like it, don't fells good for me and sometime tip not good inserted in the socket, give a try to that metal handle.

To make the TS100 compatible with T12 tips i would need the following.
1) Hakko sleeve  in the Netherlands  that would cost me €7,50 + €9 shipping = €16,50 (second option would be via china)
2) 3d printed part shapeways $5 plus $6 shipping  = €11

So in total i would spend €27,50 for that upgrade..i'm afraid that ordering the sleeve from china (aliexpress) it would not fit as good

Hakko sleeve from china will do, maybe they are the same (Clones)
I can send you that printed part for 7€ using normal post (no tracking) with tracking cost will be the same as shapeways so stick with the nearest solution

[sn4k3]

so i did it ..i just payed €62 

got this fancy unit.. as a nice second soldering iron..
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32878522554.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.31b62e0eyBBcqN

added a stand.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Hakko-T12-Soldering-Iron-Tips-Holder-With-2pcs-Sponge/32801890334.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.31b62e0eyBBcqN

and a nice tip:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T12-D16-high-shaped-tip-T12-Series-Soldering-Iron-Tips/32800374536.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.31b62e0eyBBcqN

Try stand out, if it sucks so much go hakko original: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hakko-633-01-Iron-Holder-Official-products-from-Japan-New/121773102946?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[TuxKey]

@sn4k3

The power supply actually looks good.. and to be honest with you ..i just canceled my order will think it all true.. ahhah..pff

i already got sum nice silicone cable.. from ebay 3m i only need 1m.. wanted to get sum spare..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord/152000411964?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


my wife just called me crazy .. for the 3 projects i have lined up , she told me to try using the big TS-D24 see if i can manage..
if Wodan can use it to build a keyboard i should be able to manage..
https://youtu.be/ygq3XDGLGuE

[sn4k3]

Well i still don't know what you tring to make or what need to be soldered, but sometimes is more a question of pratice and a large tip can still be used for small jobs. But don't worry, the more tools you have the better 

[TuxKey]

thanks sn4k3...
the order  still stands hahah ..well i don't care.. your right a spare iron won't be a waist...

i want to assemble mechanical keyboard kits ..and have fun with a couple of electronic kits to start of with...
later on will see..just have fun basically.probably overkill.

[stj]

i prefer conical tips - aka spikes.

you can solder small stuff with the end, and big heavy stuff with the side of it.
my most used tip is type "BL"

[TuxKey]

i prefer conical tips - aka spikes.

you can solder small stuff with the end, and big heavy stuff with the side of it.
my most used tip is type "BL"

i think the TS100 comes with the conical one.. i dismissed that one just because of all the negativity about it 
time and time again i was bashed with the phrase "why conical your soldering flat stuf pcb and mostly thru hole soldering"...was i misinformed ?
i'm going to buy a few practice boards and try my hand soldering them with chisel and then with a conical to see the difference myself.
Perhaps that's the way to go..


for now i ordered a new station that accepts the T12 tips i can get from aliexpress..and use the T100 as a spare iron or sell it later on.. what ever will see.
one problem i have solved with this second station that is fixing problems hahaha.. chicken & egg ... or better put.. if one iron has a problem how does one fix it if it's your only iron 

[sn4k3]

i prefer conical tips - aka spikes.

you can solder small stuff with the end, and big heavy stuff with the side of it.
my most used tip is type "BL"

i think the TS100 comes with the conical one.. i dismissed that one just because of all the negativity about it 
time and time again i was bashed with the phrase "why conical your soldering flat stuf pcb and mostly thru hole soldering"...was i misinformed ?
i'm going to buy a few practice boards and try my hand soldering them with chisel and then with a conical to see the difference myself.
Perhaps that's the way to go..


for now i ordered a new station that accepts the T12 tips i can get from aliexpress..and use the T100 as a spare iron or sell it later on.. what ever will see.
one problem i have solved with this second station that is fixing problems hahaha.. chicken & egg ... or better put.. if one iron has a problem how does one fix it if it's your only iron 

conical are usefull, each tip have it purpose. You should use a tip size that fit your solder joint, not bigger than pad nor smaller. Conical is very usefull to small smd, pin by pin soldering, conical is the most universal because can do almost everything.
Also you should use what work for you, there are people who hate conical and who only use them, so never follow like no other path exists, always make your tests

[stj]

conical tip can heat the pad and wire together and still have a small space to feed the solder nicely.

i have used the main 3 types a lot.
i started with an Antex iron for many years - they only have a wedge shape tip.
then i got a xytronics iron for a couple of years and used a "screwdriver" style tip.
now i use T12 conical for almost everything.

btw, i get the tips from banggood.

[TuxKey]

conical tip can heat the pad and wire together and still have a small space to feed the solder nicely.

i have used the main 3 types a lot.
i started with an Antex iron for many years - they only have a wedge shape tip.
then i got a xytronics iron for a couple of years and used a "screwdriver" style tip.
now i use T12 conical for almost everything.

btw, i get the tips from banggood.

i got the TS-D24 from Banggood together with my TS100. That's the smallest chisel tip sold for the TS100.
My TS100 came with the TS-B2 conical tip.

Two days ago i ordered the KSGER T12 STM32 soldering station. (the mini one without a power supply).
That station has way more tips to choose from..
i asked the seller to send me the T12-D12 with the station.. And i bought the T12-D16 XA High Grade.
According to the Hakko site there is one more size that is smaller hahaha.. T12-D08 that one is so small it looks like a conical tip 

The price difference between the regular T12 tips vs the high grade is €3 so the regular  cost around €3 and the high-grade ones cost €6.

btw a TS100 tip costs between €7 to €9..

[stj]

i'm not sure what "high grade" means,
the ones i have are already very nice and show no signs of pitting or anything.

[LeonR]

Quicko sells some T12 "high grade" tips. Dunno if it is snake oil or actually better quality.

[danco]

My KSGER T12 after fitting a boost DC-DC converter to be used also portable from 8-20V. Takes 6A at 12V only for 10s upon start-up, 240mA with short spikes of 2A after that.

[Zimphire]

The “High Grade” ones that have the silver tipped black ones from Quicko?
I ordered two. Still using the first I got. It’s SOMEWHAT better..

[danco]

Hi, i recently complemment my station with several new tips from Quicko and find that, at first use, the temperature reading is all over the shop and for some of them doesn't stabillise even after prolonged use. What is your experience inthis matter? Are those tips defective or it is normal?

Sent from my MI 5s Plus using Tapatalk

[Technobabble_]

Hey all. I just purchased one of these stations, and am planning on ground the chassis. Which of the following is the best option to ground/earth the case?

1. Wire the aviator terminal to the soldering iron to earth pin on the back of the unit
2. Sand off some of the paint on the bottom of the case, and connect a wire to there.
3. Sand off some of the nonconductive coating around the rotary encoder, and wiring the rotary encoder to the earth pin on the back of the unit.

Will one of these options be enough, or to ensure proper case earthing should I do all of the above?

[ciccio]

I've done done this way:
1 : wire the earth pin of the IEC connector to the case
2 : wire the earth pin of the iron's "aviation" connector to the same point of the case.
It seem that some newer models are already grounded, but it is easy to check continuity  from iron's tip to earth terminal.

Best regards

[stj]

i would connect the iron through a 1meg resistor.

it will ground static, but you wont damage the tip by accidentally discharging a large capacitor etc.
(i have seen this done btw - the bang/flash was impressive)

[Technobabble_]

I've done done this way:
It seem that some newer models are already grounded, but it is easy to check continuity  from iron's tip to earth terminal.

I verified that there is continuity between the soldering iron tip and the earth pin on the IEC connector.

On a more interesting note, my soldering iron has a relay that frequently clicks when temperature is stabalizing. the "R7" led on the microcontroller board also flashes. Do your stations do this as well? (see photo). Initially, the iron would crash when I entered "boost" mode, but after I took it apart and inspected it, I couldn't recreate the problem. Maybe the connector was loose from the power supply to the microchip board?

Also, the Quicko stations have a four pin aviator, while my KSGER one has a five pin. What is the extra pin for? Or is it a dummy pin?

Thanks for the responses.

[stj]

4pin vs 5pin is probably just to make you buy their iron handles if you need a spare.
BAKON uses a 3pin.

[ciccio]

Bakon has 3 pins: one is for ground, the other two are for the T12 element (which includes heater and thermocouple
KSGER and others  have two more pins, used for the connection to the vibration switch inside the handle and sometimes for the cold joint compensation for the element's thermocouple.
I have seen  different connections styles from different T12 clones manufacturers.

best regards

[Zimphire]

Yes, the two other pins are not just for show..

[Ride the Lightning]

The “High Grade” ones that have the silver tipped black ones from Quicko?
I ordered two. Still using the first I got. It’s SOMEWHAT better..

Any opinions now that some time has past about the XA "high grade" tips. Any more durable? 

EDIT:
Found some info about how black chrome is being used in robotic soldering. Whether it is the same and/or the benefits carry over is another question.
https://www.leisto.com/blog/use-black-chrome-robotic-soldering-tips/