Working voltage of TS100 soldering iron

[kat]

Hi,

I just got this popular soldering iron, and I was wondering if it could be powered by a Makita 18V battery?
In the specs it says the working voltage is 11V-18V, but the Makita battery can have up to 21V when it's fully charged (4.2*5). Would that 3V difference damage the soldering iron?

tx

[wraper]

Dunno where you got those specs, it's rated for 12-24V.

http://www.miniware.com.cn/downloads/TS100%20soldering%20iron%20instruction%20manual.pdf

[bitwelder]

Here (allegedly) are the schematics for the TS100:
https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/blob/master/Development%20Resources/TS100%20V2.46%20Schematics%20V1.0.pdf

where are those voltage limits coming from?

[chickenHeadKnob]

yes your power brick should be fine. I also don't know where you saw 18v limit. Mine is happily running off of a 24 volt supply. When I got it i briefly tested it out of the box, as a person normally would. I found the operation with the stock firmware fine and thought I don't need to upgrade to the open source firmware. Then I had the chance to use it away from my lab, in a proper 1 hour repair session. It became unusable as it  would go to sleep every few seconds. In desperation searched the internets, found other reports of the same problem, then downloaded the opensource  firmware in desperation. I only had an iMAC available at that location but the firmware update was painless, and it solved the underlying problem! Yay! opensource for the win. I finished what I was repairing and have since used it for about 3 hours on time in my lab without any further drama. Recommend changing firmware before doing anything else

[kenneth1212]

I have mine running from Makita 18V batteries.  Works a treat.

Skickat från min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

[ThomasCee]

I run mine off a LiPo battery while in the field. Super super handy.

[MacMeter]

I’ve read all the GLOWING (pun) reviews. At work I’ve used the Hakko 888 (approx $90 U.S.), but wanted to get into the newer tech tips. Hakko’s next model up with new style tips and sleep stand is approx. $250 U.S.  And since is for my own home use, I can’t justify that cost right now, for infrequent use.

New TS100 for about $65 on (Amazon), I can try these new style tips, and the TS100 also has sleep mode. So it looks like a logical purchase for me at this time. I do have a question though.

All the units, including the one on the main manufacturers site, include and or sell the AC power supply brick, RATED at 19 volts. The spec sheet, shows that the iron can deliver 40 WATTS, at 19 volts, but at 24 volts, you get the MAX power output of 65 watts. Wondering WHY, would, even the original maker only include a LESS powerful power supply. I would assume everyone would want the ability to use the maximum power this iron can supposedly handle, especially one this small. Just wondering if perhaps the sellers themselves are a bit concerned about either safety or product longevity, since they don’t include a 24 volt power supply? Just seems odd, if not a bit suspicious?

Also odd that for $57 U.S., listed on Bangood, with no power supply, I can get one for $65 (Amazon) WITH power supply (only 19v), and get it much sooner, but unfortunately it comes with the standard 19 volt power supply. I may go that route and then get a cheap 24 volt power supply anyway (approx $15) to get the full 65 watt output. Even with the small extra cost of a real 24v supply, I’m still way under the cost of the newer style Hakko. Does this sound logical and reasonable? As always appreciate the excellent feedback. THANKS!

[Gyro]

I think the main reason is that 19V is a common laptop adapter voltage whereas 24V isn't. The sellers (MiniDSO themselves don't supply one) are re-purposing them - and cheap ones at that!

I think you're better, quality wise, sourcing your own decent quality (grounded) 24V supply.

[MacMeter]

I think the main reason is that 19V is a common laptop adapter voltage whereas 24V isn't. The sellers (MiniDSO themselves don't supply one) are re-purposing them - and cheap ones at that!

I think you're better, quality wise, sourcing your own decent quality (grounded) 24V supply.

Thanks for the advice! I’m probably going to get a 24v power supply as you suggest, even though the current Amazon offers include the 19v ones. Still the price difference is so small versus the IRON only Chinese sites, the 19v would be a 40 watt backup version, and I don’t like waiting 2-6 weeks with difficult return issues.

MiniDSO has them listed, all 19 volts, NO mention or offer of a 24 volt supply, that’s what I thought was odd. I know they don’t make the power supplies, but I wonder how many folks just see and read that the iron can do 65 Watts, and then wonder why they only get 40 Watts from the kits that include them. The ones they list are cheap for sure, but it’s hard to believe there is much of a price difference between cheap 19 & 24 volt supplies, as the cheap ones I’ve found so far on Amazon are less then $20. I may end up buying a used “name brand Sony” 24 volt laptop supply on EBay, rather then a cheapo no name Chinese one.

I’ll certainly get a US 3-prong grounded supply, but don’t you still have to ground the iron using the screw on top of the TS100?

Sure pays to do some easy online research. Thanks again.

[Gyro]

That sounds like a good plan, as you say, minimal price difference and no return issues. The iron can do a lot with 40W too, given the close element thermal coupling (as people using LiPos will probably attest).

An excellent idea to get a second hand brand name supply off ebay, they are a much safer bet than generic replacements. Get a length of decent quality silicone cord and terminate it close to the supply - fit a good quality high current laptop style (yellow insulation with forked inner contact) 2.5x5.5mm DC jack too.

With regard to grounding, yes the screw provides direct tip connection. The tip is decoupled to the outer barrel of the DC jack by a 100nF capacitor internally (C26). On mine, with grounded power supply output -ve I have bridged C26 to provide tip grounding. This results in a small voltage on the tip (around 100mV on mine) relative to mains ground, due to voltage drop across the cord - low enough not to be an issue for me. You have the choice.

[MacMeter]

That sounds like a good plan, as you say, minimal price difference and no return issues. The iron can do a lot with 40W too, given the close element thermal coupling (as people using LiPos will probably attest).

An excellent idea to get a second hand brand name supply off ebay, they are a much safer bet than generic replacements. Get a length of decent quality silicone cord and terminate it close to the supply - fit a good quality high current laptop style (yellow insulation with forked inner contact) 2.5x5.5mm DC jack too.

With regard to grounding, yes the screw provides direct tip connection. The tip is decoupled to the outer barrel of the DC jack by a 100nF capacitor internally (C26). On mine, with grounded power supply output -ve I have bridged C26 to provide tip grounding. This results in a small voltage on the tip (around 100mV on mine) relative to mains ground, due to voltage drop across the cord - low enough not to be an issue for me. You have the choice.

Ha, you brought up my only other concern, replacing the cable from the power supply with a nice silicone wire!

There is another thread here, something like “TS100 ...testing”, it’s a little dated, and I thought this thread was a good fit for my questions. Anyway, I believe it was in that thread, someone suggested a “Mean Well” model GST90A24-P1M, Regulated Switching Table Top Power Supply, 24 Volt, 3.75 Amp, 90 Watt. It has the proper DC plug 2.5x5.5x11mm. Doing some quick reading, seems Mean Well is a fairly well respected Taiwan (some models Chinese) maker of power supplies. $26 new. I’m almost ready to dive in. THANKS again for you help and advise!

[MacMeter]

Get a length of decent quality silicone cord and terminate it close to the supply - fit a good quality high current laptop style (yellow insulation with forked inner contact) 2.5x5.5mm DC jack too.

@Gyro
If you get a chance, post a link or photo of the “yellow” connector you recommended. I thought most barrel connectors were the same, design wise.

Also what gauge silicone wire would be safe to buy for the 65 watt max output of the iron? Lighter the better I’m thinking. THANKS!

[Gyro]

I can only give you links to the UK ebay listings I used I'm afraid, but at least the connector one shows a picture of the connector. The difference is that cheap barrel connectors only have a hollow cylinder for the inner contact (they rely on side pressure on the jack to make contact with the center pin) whereas the high current ones have a sprung fork contact which actively grips the center pin, as shown in the photo. As I say, they always seem to have yellow insulation.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Socket-Male-Female-Barrel-Connector-Multiple-Sizes-Available-/292033926253?var=&hash=item43fe94146d:m:mUesRQQNWhwM4BtX-0CbALg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord-/152000411964?hash=item2363ee393c:g:eBcAAOSwll1W1cRU

[MacMeter]

I can only give you links to the UK ebay listings I used I'm afraid, but at least the connector one shows a picture of the connector. The difference is that cheap barrel connectors only have a hollow cylinder for the inner contact (they rely on side pressure on the jack to make contact with the center pin) whereas the high current ones have a sprung fork contact which actively grips the center pin, as shown in the photo. As I say, they always seem to have yellow insulation.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Socket-Male-Female-Barrel-Connector-Multiple-Sizes-Available-/292033926253?var=&hash=item43fe94146d:m:mUesRQQNWhwM4BtX-0CbALg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord-/152000411964?hash=item2363ee393c:g:eBcAAOSwll1W1cRU

Thank you, now I know what to look for!

[fenugrec]

I'm temporarily resurrecting this thread to add some info in answer to

where are those voltage limits coming from?

I had the same question, wanting to operate from 24V Pb batteries which are a bit higher than 24 when full.
The limitations I see are :

- RT7272 dc-dc, rated for 36V input (not a problem)
- dcdc filter caps C8 (1uF, ?? V), C9 (22uF, 25V)
- clamping diode (20V Zener) : draws around 20mA at Vsup = 24V; that's a lot for that tiny zener (over 400mW) ! Increases by around 133mW per volt above 24V...
- power PMOS : VDS 30V for the typical HM / CJQ 4953. Gate is driven at Vsup/2 via resistive divider, so VGSmax should always be ok.

[Gyro]

You're clearly pushing your luck if you go past 24V supply, as your analysis shows. I run my TS100 regularly at 24V (regulated) without any issues.

The maximum open circuit voltage of a fully charged 24V Lead acid battery (assuming that it hasn't just come off charge) should be 25.2V at room temperature. It could well take a while to drop to 24V, maybe around 50-70% capacity.

The supply voltage will drop a bit due to cable resistance when the element is on, but that's not going to help while the iron is in standby, sleep, or up to temperature.

I doubt if it would be worth the effort of building a 24V LDO regulator, this would have a dropout voltage loss and quiescent current too.

I'd suggest putting 1-2 rectifier diodes in series with the supply to drop the voltage to <24V. You could add a switch to bypass these if you want to maintain maximum output for more of the battery discharge curve. You shouldn't let the battery discharge below 22V in any case.

One other thing. Don't forget to include an in-line fuse in the battery supply, this is vital - a Lead acid battery can push an awful lot of current into a circuit fault.


EDIT: I'm not sure if you're working from the same schematic as me (attached). Mine shows a 24V zener (D3) in series with a 1N4148 (D4) and 150R resistor (R30).

[fenugrec]

I run my TS100 regularly at 24V (regulated) without any issues.

Nice, have you checked just how hot that zener gets ? not easy as it's on the "back" side of the PCB. Pretty sure it's running a bit beyond its 17mA "max admissible"...

P.S. I'm not sure if you're working from the same schematic as me (attached). Mine shows a 24V zener (D3) in series with a 1N4148 (D4) and 150R resistor (R30).

Nope, same : ( https://www.scribd.com/document/342086141/TS100-V2-46-Schematics-V1-0 ) which shows a BZT52B20  , 20V.

[Gyro]

Hmm, I never noticed that - my eye must have been drawn to the 'C24' next to the zener (of course that's the ident of the capacitor next to it!), maybe that and the voltage spec in the manual.

No, I've never actually checked the temperature of the Zener. I guess it is helped by the amount of ground pour on the (admittedly small) PCB. I wonder why they picked a 20V Zener, they have quite a lot of headroom on the regulator spec.