station

[hani93]

Nice pictures hani93 .

I just say that I have seen Inductors that also look very much like it , a coincidence its called L1? and not R1 

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=through+hole+inductors&FORM=HDRSC2

Hello, thanks for info , i have never seen/used inductors. (i'm just taking electronics as a hobby)
So, sorry , my bad. 

Anyway, here is color code of it:   Red Red Gold Silver

and yes, it is marked as "L1"

[hani93]

here are some more photos, of that "Power Supply Board" , if interested...
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/urmas98/library/

[hani93]

picture in attachment

and yes, it seems to be inductor, lifted 1 leg, and measured.. result:   0 ohm

[hani93]

it connects to pin 7 & 9 on LM723CN   (V-  & Vz) 
http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/lm723.pdf

for me it seems more like it is connected to ground on both sides of conductor.

isolates grounds ? (sorry if dumb question)

[hani93]

ok, here i'm really interested, that, what are differences between 5A/3A/1A versions.

maybe there is some "hack" to unlock more amps out of this "1A" beast ?

google-ing here for lm723 schematics...

[hani93]

ok, here i'm really interested, that, what are differences between 5A/3A/1A versions.

maybe there is some "hack" to unlock more amps out of this "1A" beast ?

google-ing here for lm723 schematics...

Ha Ha , first would be a extra pass transistor on the back , a TO3055 , then there would be needed a modification to the current sense network near the IC to allow for 5a or so instead of the 1 amp , then a new meter , for me it was not worth the hassle ..

But go for it if you have the inclination but I can be of no assistance there as my board is different 

ok, thank's for help anyway ;-)

[subratri]

hi again. i have finally time to say about my happy and
In the end, they sand me booth boards. Im so glad
i have connect it together and... the hot air didn't start:/
after quick check - all correct   
then i have open the blower and i realized that the "potential connector" (no idea how to call it in English or any another language  ) get brake. In the end i have tune the blower by micro switch.  Every think works now almost like new
So this inductor have nothing to do with another parts of the unit. It is only connected to the voltage regulator.
In the same time the inductor show me a judge resistance in 100 of MOhm. Do not remember now how much exactly but as long as it have nothing to do with the soldering station i do not care about it at all.
THX a lot for help and sorry for my unreadable (probably ) english.   

[subratri]

HI.
Yes it it reed switch;) I knew how it works, just didn't know how to call it
On the pix is how i have solved. Unfortunately the micro switch is micro and the spaces between connectors in it are micro too. So after i switch it on the magnetic fill doesn't let him to switch off  by it self. I need to switch off by the main switch on the box. But it is not an issue for me. So i will left it like it is.
The board witch is on the pix few topics before is exactly the same as mine, so no reason to do pix again.
More interesting is the 2nd board. There is kind of antenna on it and i had external antenna in the box. I have no idea for what it is? how i can use it? 

[subratri]

And 2 more pix.

[subratri]

And one more as the size limit is very small

[subratri]

misunderstanding i did not send back the old one, so i the end i have 2 complete sets of them.

[powerslide]

Hi,
I have got a Yihua 853D+ rework station.
I bought it without a soldering iron, but I ordered from Ebay.
I connected the station and in the soldering side tempreture display show only 003 Celsius and does not heating up.
When I connected first time heated up aroun 200 Celcius and after the temperature was going down.
I checked both resistor measure between 1-2 legs 0 ohm and between 4-5 legs 2.1 ohm in my room.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/390711831688?txnId=420917901026

I bought a new soldering Iron but still not working it has a same issue.

Thanks

[powerslide]

Hi,
I have got a Yihua 853D+ rework station.
I bought it without a soldering iron, but I ordered from Ebay.
I connected the station and in the soldering side tempreture display show only 003 Celsius and does not heating up.
When I connected first time heated up aroun 200 Celcius and after the temperature was going down.
I checked both resistor measure between 1-2 legs 0 ohm and between 4-5 legs 2.1 ohm in my room.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/390711831688?txnId=420917901026

I bought a new soldering Iron but still not working it has a same issue.

Thanks

Hi , with mine the sensor ohms is 16.2 and heater ohms 1.3 (original) , see reply#17 on page 2 .

The handpiece will not work correctly if it has incorrect sensor I guess , so apart from voltages and correct heater there it's the sensor that will turn it on or off , I would measure the resistance at the actual handle first then follow it back checking if wired correctly right to pcb <unplugged from mains of course>.

Good luck ...

PS> 2 months to go and this unit has lasted 2 years so far!

Thank you so much. 
I want to buy another original iron. Please help me what can I choose?
Which one the best one?

Thanks

[YankeeSierra]

Hello Guys, another electronics hobbyist here, I also got the 853D, it was working great, I even used it to charge some 12v8ah lead acid batteries, and fried it when I tried to recover an old battery that was ready for the recycler, so, dont try to desulfate batteries with it,  hehehehe, anyway I have located the issue  , and resistor R56 is shorted, but it is a 5 band resistor and I have no idea on what the value is, all online value checkers fail since it has a black band on one edge, if any of you can give me some advise, it would be much appreciated.

Best regards

P.S. by the way R56 is the big blue resistor, 2 or 3 watts to the right of the picture.

[TheBay]

First band shouldn't be black, check it again, it might be Blue or Violet (possibly even brown), it's hard to see in your picture, have a closer look in some good light.

Hello Guys, another electronics hobbyist here, I also got the 853D, it was working great, I even used it to charge some 12v8ah lead acid batteries, and fried it when I tried to recover an old battery that was ready for the recycler, so, dont try to desulfate batteries with it,  hehehehe, anyway I have located the issue  , and resistor R56 is shorted, but it is a 5 band resistor and I have no idea on what the value is, all online value checkers fail since it has a black band on one edge, if any of you can give me some advise, it would be much appreciated.

Best regards

P.S. by the way R56 is the big blue resistor, 2 or 3 watts to the right of the picture.

[YankeeSierra]

Thank you TheBay for your prompt reply, sorry for the picture, I am sure the band is black, here is another picture. thank you.

[Andy Watson]

Definitely looks black! I've never encountered a resistor that starts with a black colour code, but could it be 0.33 ohms? This would fit with the silver band indicating x0.01

[YankeeSierra]

Thank you very much Andy, you were right, first i thought that resistor was shorted but a closer inspection with the element disconnected shows .33 ohms on my meter so I will have to keep looking for whats wrong with the power supply.

Thank you very much, have a great day.

[ffp]

Hello,
Sorry to revive old topic but here a lot of information.
I bought Unbranded 853D but inside it look exactly as YiHUA 853D. Except minor detail that there is no RF. So I am thinking to add it my self as it look missing few items.
I have a solder blob on R55 on main board, and on front panel D12, C12, C10? (next to C9), R51 (solder blob with component look like 100 ohm)

I am also trying to make partial schematic on voltage regulated circuit. I will post my work once I figure out some parts.

[ffp]

Scary soldering station. Look like they do everything backwards. Like power switch for supply have +5V and when you flip it it become ground. I thought it would feed 5V but not... Well  for me the impression is they brake Ground connection instead of braking positive.
PS: You can see how poorly board is made. I might try to clean it....

[ffp]

Took me toooo long to draw simple circuit.  I made errors, and I hope all fixed and no mistakes. I use multisim to draw and test but it did not work. May be due that it is not complete circuit or multisim not working property. In the past long long time ago I did use it and it did not work...
Attached pdf and multisim files.
PS: I redraw everything to make it more neat.

[ffp]

That why when I draw that it did look funny to me. I even go online to see what type of circuits based on LM.. and I was hoping Q3 and "Q0" would be set as darlington pair...
The variable resistor "R0" on mine is close to 6K ohm and on YiHUA is 3K ohm (I wonder if I have some where 3K variable resistor to see if i will get smooth voltage adjustment. (I hate that from close to 11 o'clock it start changing voltage)

I hope there is a way to make a sleep function for solder station.. I wonder what CON16 for...

Here is images of boards. I took a lot of pictures and did not really sort them. (Good bad and ugly all there)
https://mega.nz/#!PtFGXbCC!OdqIuLRJvPa_0PPv4FJmyPoMnh-AZqjbbPlnw6F4IUs

PS: I did try add digital volt/amp meter board that I bought few on Ebay (Big mistake) those boards very inaccurate. Voltage is off and I knew that current will be off but did not expect that it show inaccurate voltage. If I adjust correctly to 1 volt and when go to 15 volt it will be off by 1-2 volts. So I install back original analog amp meter... Had to install through negative (Originally the amp meter was hookup to positive. I guess it was done so you can measure voltage... That idea is stupid due that if you use power supply why measure voltage? You need multimiter just measuring voltage give you nothing, nada, zilch....)

PSS: Off topic but I like this DIY power supply: http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/ps3010/ps3010a.html

[ffp]

Quick update. Today I took of pot out and it's 10Kohm so I install 5Kohm and voltage regulation work like a charm. So for those unbranded 853D that is easy fix for regulated power supply. 1 Amp is perfect protection. If it go more then 1 Amp then there would be and issue....
Here info on tips. The original that come with my station look too dip and wider. I have bad Hakko original tip and it fit better. I took metal insert from Hakko tip and it reduce gap between unknown tips.. so I hope it will transfer better heat. The only downside is heating element slightly shorter for unknown tips. I look for Hakko tips and they pretty pricey, so will use that unbranded junky tips and see how it go.
PS: I have Hakko 939 with 903 handle and I like that heating element come with tip but after a while tip and heating element separates... The only downside that there not fine tips for micro-soldering.
Edit: I clean both boards and due that I took most of it apart I will take more pictures of the boards, just in case if something go bad I have references where is what. Also it would be possible to draw schematic and get idea how solder station works. I think I will not draw more schematic of this board due that it take huge amount of time.

[ffp]

After washing board in 99% alcohol in ultrasonic cleaner. It look funny white... I will try get flux off to clean that out now... I did take a look at 2nd board and what I learn there 2 8-Bit Microcontrollers (One for iron and other for air) I guess if there would be a way to read and write program then there might be easy hack to add sleep function... It also scary if one of the chip fry then this unit become useless...

So I will try clean boards again and only 1 idea left add a fan as there only holes at bottom and nothing on sides or top. I think adding a fan would be good idea just need build a board that will convert 15 volt to variable 12-5 so it will be easier to adjust speed of a fan.

One more thing I need to do after cleaning add silicon thermal paste for heat-sinks as there none.. oops forgot. Need scrape clean case where ground is used. Also on board there ground connector to that connects to capacitor...

More ugly pictures if some one need it.
File>https://mega.nz/#!gRdmAYyJ!keHDcG-9cbzggwgkz3siQYgNnB4Ows78YGTsHDRiVyQ

PS: I am attaching all data sheets for ic, transistors...etc. I think I got all of them..
Files>https://mega.nz/#!5RFFwLwZ!QZwG0BHpwfsRYqBr4E1YCSimOsqfpunbQkdvCjlcew8

[TonyL]

I recently bought one of these - well a 853DA 1A (Diaphragm Pump Type) from eBay

What I didn't notice before buying was the fan in handle model is ~110L/min and the diaphragm style is ~24L/min

The iron temp at tip (cheapo multimeter w/ thermocouple shakingly held at end of tip) is about 120c out - assuming the Yihua display is actually Celsius
PSU Display is missing a few lines, haven't checked whether the voltage output is correct

Tried to use the hot air gun with the smallest tip (2mm) and most of the air is leaking out the top of the handle instead of the tip - anyone found a fix for this?