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Offline GEuserTopic starter

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station
« on: September 05, 2012, 03:20:14 pm »
Q
« Last Edit: August 30, 2016, 11:57:44 am by GEuser »
Soon
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2012, 03:50:46 pm »
Lucky you, YiHUA seems to make a little better quality stuff than the rest but the design failure is a bit appalling

I had a 858D ( it's in pieces now ) that blew it's triac by overheating (3.33amps!) with a too small heatsink probably about 30C/W in a town with 34C amb. average and 82% avg humidity

Disaster recipe, it works well in china but not here

The real reason it's in bits now is that the previous the 858D fired up without a mica insulator went without glitches but after replacing one with a mica insulator (from YiHUA themselves!) it stopped working ... checked resistance and everything it just sits there flashing at 1Hz like a idiot
I can find Atten AT8586's at 44SGD
I could have better used that 35SGD i spent on that crap ...

So this is the real reason why OHLJ cannot really improve or make decent products, their tools from YiHUA are not cheap and they break down all the time, Atten's the next bet

OH speaking about desoldering stations, there's a reason only Aoyue and CT (god knows who's that but their stuff looks pretty highend as well as the price even in china) makes them, they can offer high quality even at the same price (Well just not with CT)
Feast your eyes on these:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.10.15&id=5128347983 This is the first time i've seen cheap hot air rework PENS outside of xytronic (IIRC, isn't cheap)
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2012, 06:29:57 am »
I thought anodized are supposed to be better for heat transfer? The most important thing was that yihua lacked any sort of thermal paste on the heatsinks themselves and had a too small heatsink in a too small space, so the next bigger size heatsink i had was making it lie on the 0.1uF X2 snubber cap

PS: Use google translate, although i only wanted to show the pictures, i don't know chinese either
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2012, 05:40:40 pm »
The ones i found on mine were supposed to be BT151 but it got replaced by a BTA16
At least they do over-rating
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2012, 10:05:42 am »
You made me take the covers off again to take a look , yes there is a BTA16 for the gun heater , and whilst i was there i used the gun and today is a 28c ambient here and it was just slightly warm  , i think that will change when its 35+c ambient though , also a larger heatsink will be difficult to get in between those 2 board sockets yes.....

But lol , i also went to shorten the supplied molded mains lead and found out it was wired incorrectly , active and neutral were transposed making the fuse in the neutral side in a mens system , so i wired the now 12" lead with new plug correctly for here and it's as it should be , i missed that when i looked about the first time but who would have thought ? ...

Welcome to yihua's epic flops!
Decent quality board but a shitload of flops!
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2012, 04:16:26 pm »
While reading your post, a fuse popped so loud and hard i could feel it 60cm away ...
Turns out to be my solder feed machine  :'( that fuse went so hard the wires totally disintegrated


Anyway, so the other day i fired up the 858D for a final test and it tripped the mains. I've had it with YiHUA
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2012, 05:19:53 am »
Snubber cap shorted out ... crappy caps  ::)
In my case it is a dual supply transformer, 30V and 10V no center tap
 

Offline T4P

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2012, 09:43:41 am »
Err ... the sleeve? some sort of teflon? I guess?
The same stuff you find in a iron cord
 

Offline ajasmin

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2013, 01:06:38 am »
I noticed a problem with my 853D. Even though the power supply is switched off from the front panel, there's voltage applied to the power supply binding posts for a brief moment when I switch the unit on or off using the switch on the back.

Something to watch for.
 

Offline ajasmin

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2013, 06:38:49 am »
Was your mains lead swapped around? (the active/neutral) ...

I just checked and... Yes the fuse is connected to the neutral lead.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2013, 06:42:32 am by ajasmin »
 

Offline ajasmin

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2013, 05:34:39 am »
Mine here , the socket is/was wired correctly with the fuze in active , but the lead that came with it was arse about/swapped  :-//, look at post 3 or 4 (7) here in the thread ...

It turns out that when I checked how the fuse was wired, I did a continuity check through the power cord as I'm not sure where the neutral and hot contacts are supposed to be on the C14 connector.



And it's really the power cord that's wired wrong. Just like yours. I compared it to a bunch of other cables and it's different.

Continuity test on normal AC power cords:


Continuity test on the YiHUA cord:




What are the chances of that happening? And wasn't yours an Australian power cord?
« Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 05:37:25 am by ajasmin »
 

Offline Harvs

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2013, 06:30:07 am »
I saw a recall notice this week on the notice board at work for incorrectly wired IEC power cords, same problem.  Don't remember what the brand was, but probably all came from the same factory...
 

Offline charlieb000

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2013, 03:38:33 am »
For the person wanting to know about replacement heating elements, ebay: A1321 (next time, please keep the sheet that comes with the replacement heater!)

As for the 150ohm resistor on the power supply, its supposed to be an "active resistor" to reduce power supply noise. I dont like it either but left it there (these things are in my old oscilloscope also). they also help when the device on the power supply tries to put power back into the supply.

-------

Now, I have my own little review, and after this much I am still happy with it. i guess if it quits on me and i cant fix it then i wont be happy, but i will probably continue trying to fix it - probably with new guts.

====
Here is a list of improvements i had to do to my 853D+.
Required tools:
another soldering iron.
dremel or the like (otherwise, a saw and chisel/screwdriver)
callipers (optional)
axial resistor for LED (220 ohm i think)
Drill and one bit (10mm or whatever)
spare thick and thin wire.

First impressions:
I noticed the soldering iron was not made quite right. But i could not determine the fix i needed to do.
I did take a peek inside and i did notice how underutilised the earth connection was.
The power supply would beep if i applied power to anything connected to earth.

==

It was not until after the soldering iron heating element did snap did i try to solve this, the ultimate solution was to shorten the metal collar that the tip rests against (around the heating element) so the sleeve that holds down the tip sits firmly on the threaded section that the nut screws onto. (i also extended the channel inside the tips with a drill bit, but that was a previous attempt at repair and i cant remember enough to say if it is necessary.) But do this first: the other tips may need some cutting so they extend the same length inside the sleeve (perhaps use calipers here, sticking the back end down the sleeve with the tip inside to determine the required trimming, and trim to the shortest one - i didn't do that, and mines not correct but will do)


recently,
the meter reading began to jump around and the RF meter would flash. I decided that it was time to go fix all the problems i noticed inside.

First i grounded the negatives of the rework, soldering and power supply. the reason why the thing beeped when i connected the power supply to ground was because the insulator under one of the transistors was breached by a burr from one of the holes. I used a drill to remove all the burrs and replaced the TO-3's. Good.  For good measure i connected dedicated wires to each one and bypassed the header. couldn't get rid of the 0.1ohm resistor as my new wiring didnt total that. (they have the resistors there because not all transistors are made the same. i should measure to see how equal the current gets distributed. Although 0.1ohm was also recommended by the guy that told me about it, it should work as well with less. At 3 amps, the voltage will drop 0.15V and they will consume 0.45W together)

Next, i didnt like how high voltage was so close to my grounded low voltage. i cut the tracks surrounding the HV area and connected these to earth and used wires to replace the tracks I cut. I also removed the tracks around one of the optoisolators for better isolation and used the resistor here. i could have completely removed these tracks that i have made earths for a nice dielectric gap (as seen on SMPS power supplies) but didnt want lead shavings (i would probably say i dont know enough to determine how much safer it is with the gap). Because the mains goes into the heater with the other wires that go into low voltage areas of the circuit, i couldnt think of any solution other than weaving the earth wire among these before it goes to the chassis.


All done! so i thought.

When i reassembled, the heater fan would stay on. then it went off but at the same time the meter began jumping around again. So there was lots of thought and wasted time over this co-incidence.

after trial and fail over these two problems, i got the pen and paper out and traced the fan circuit. seemed to be Q1. but there was nothing that could cause that to blow, oh well replace it. well it turned out that the vibration loosened it as it was not soldered properly.

That did leave the meter's intermittant fault. I had found during the fan episode that when the meter figures began jumping, U3 (s3e9454bzz, but for the datasheet search for: samsung 9454) would become HOT. The 5V regulator output would drop to 4.8V. When it was quiet again, I loaded the 5V heavily myself, the meter would jump but U3 would not heat. I considered making a special cable for U3 to measure the pin current but not having the parts i was trying to reseat the IC without different pins to remove the trigger. gave up on that. i then decided to measure the current on Vss and Vdd and routed dedicated wires from the unseated legs to the regulator and to the now useful ground. it behaved itself. i gave up on waiting for it to malfunction and soldered permanent connections to the regulator. Its been behaving itself for some days now with no repeat, so i guess i can say i accidentally fixed it.


the soldering iron funciton remains untested because its been misplaced at this moment, but with what i can test, there doesnt seem to be any incompatibility with my earthing fix.
i have passed on a summary of this to Yihua, who knows if they will acknowledge it.

Charlie.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2013, 05:00:49 am by charlieb000 »
 

Offline charlieb000

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2013, 08:45:02 am »
howd you set it right? just curious... i see only one adjustment but i dont think its for temps...

..... .... ... .. .

The iron temp was off by 40c but it was easy to set it right , the hot air temp was accurate enough .

cheers aye.....
 

Offline amyk

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2013, 10:41:10 am »
That did leave the meter's intermittant fault. I had found during the fan episode that when the meter figures began jumping, U3 (s3e9454bzz, but for the datasheet search for: samsung 9454)
Anyone else find it odd that a Chinese manufacturer would use an obscure Korean MCU in their product? Maybe they got a particularly good deal on them...
 

Offline charlieb000

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2013, 03:49:03 am »
Attached is the sheet I got with the element, kept it for the record to replace the spare (never got around to that), it says No.A1321. Now the iron is fixed, it should only take something harsh to break it, like a drop onto concrete from maybe a metre while you are carrying it (it was not hot), like i accidentally did with someone elses... I cant confirm if the rework heater is the same as yours, as there is no model number on the heater. If there are some descrepencies with the new iron heater, im sure you can easily adjust it using that temperature sensor pot.    I could tell you how to make a digital thermometer if you like. The plain silicon rectifier diode has a forward voltage that responds linearly with temperature. I made a circuit with a 200mV meter (or multimeter) to display it. Icalibrated it between the known room temp and boiling using formulas i put into a spreadsheet. it was Celcius but if you want farenheit thats doable to but your range will be significantly different (meter: +/- 200.0).

Also attached is the translation for the sticker on top of the 853D+ about the RF meter. unfortunately they had no idea why the message was counterintuitive, the transmitter being LESS powerfull when held further away with the meter reporting full input. "nexus" means "link" and probably means "the signal" in this case.

Lots of people buy samsung, it seems to not bother them. Corperations dont know ethics.

By the way, i did ask for the circuit diagram, but they declined, "because that is our company proprietary".

For the person wanting to know about replacement heating elements, ebay: A1321 (next time, please keep the sheet that comes with the replacement heater!)

As for the 150ohm resistor on the power supply, its supposed to be an "active resistor" to reduce power supply noise. I dont like it either but left it there (these things are in my old oscilloscope also). they also help when the device on the power supply tries to put power back into the supply.

Charlie.

Hi Charlie , I got no sheet for the original :-// so did not know what to replace it with , that ebay one you posted I looked , its there , are the ohmic rates the same as the original? (the ohmic rates are in another post earlier on) .

For memory as its been awhile , that resistor fixed up the connection between the power supply and the iron tip on this one , mine is the lower 1.5amp ps by the way ..
« Last Edit: April 02, 2013, 04:34:42 am by charlieb000 »
 

Offline amspire

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2013, 04:26:30 am »
re: Iron ceramic heating element , the first picture is the Generic one , the second pic is the YiHUA one see the notch on the pcb end its ceramic , i'm looking for some spares and i flogged the net to death  and all i've come up with is the first picture , whats under the  material type of stuff at the same end in the 1st pic? , any assistance would be appreciated , cheers....
They are not the ones you want. The photos look like Hakko A1321 clones and they have some kind of temperature sensitive resistor deposited at the bottom of the ceramic tube on the inner surface.

The ones you probably want have thermocouples instead. You can tell - measure the resistance between the two wires in the handle PCB furthest from the tip. If it is zero ohms, then you have a thermocouple version.

The replacements for my 952D plus rework station are the Kada A1322. They are probably meant to be a clone for the Hakko A1322, but I found the clone element seems to work well in the non-hakko station.  Just do an ebay search for Kada A1322. These elements are mechanically the same as your YiHUA elements. Cost something like $5 each.

Check your iron - do the first two wires from the tip have a resistance about 14 ohms, and the second two under 1 ohms? If so, the Kada A1322 will probably work.

I would also order some Hakko tips to replace whatever rubbish came with the iron.

« Last Edit: April 02, 2013, 04:48:30 am by amspire »
 

Offline amspire

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2013, 05:05:15 am »
This shows the internals of the A1322 clone element. Very different from the A1321 element which I gather has the heater element and sensor deposited on the ceramic. This one uses wires.



It actually still works! I used it for a couple of months like this until I got a replacement. The remainder of the element bit is frozen into the tip.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2013, 05:10:29 am by amspire »
 

Offline charlieb000

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2013, 05:40:47 am »
To try to answer the first question,
that will probably be fixed by grounding it properly. But i dont know how that could have crashed the chips. the iron tip would have been grounded, and if your power supply has the same problem that mine did, that would draw max amps (im not sure if yours beeps like mine did if you draw too much current. having the switch off at the front does not cut the power). if there was a surge from the current detector maybe that caused it. if your chips are sharing a transformer secondary with the PSU then maybe there was probably a problem from that.

i needed to have U3 plugged in for anything to come on the displays (but maybe it tells those other chips what to show).


Attached is what mine looks like inside now, although most of the work is under the board. the blue line is where the grounded tracks are.

I just received a new 853D the other day its the 1amp power supply one , i noticed yesterday that if one has a lead from the ps still connected to a "whatever" but the ps turned off and then went to solder something with the iron on the whatever the v digital lights went off and the hot air fan came on , no shorts or sparks but that was the symptom .
« Last Edit: April 02, 2013, 05:43:35 am by charlieb000 »
 

Offline subratri

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #19 on: February 10, 2014, 12:04:16 pm »
Hi!
I just bought an rework station YiHUA853D, and it brakes down after one hour of use :D
I can see yours boards are different then mine, but hopefully someone have  same unit as me.
I need to find out what is the L1 on the pix. It looks like resistor but is signed as L1. As you can see it is completely burned :/   
Can someone help me pls??
Thx a lot!
« Last Edit: February 10, 2014, 12:19:58 pm by subratri »
 

Offline subratri

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #20 on: February 11, 2014, 09:54:24 am »
Hi. Yes I'm talking with them but it is one email per day if lucky. It will take ages... Much faster would be just to fix it.
The IC is 723  voltage regulator and it have an short cut. That way the l1 is dead. And yes it is connected with the ground but it says nothing. It looks like an resistor but this L1 ... L is very far from R :)aboutthe board... After a lot of research I believe it is a board from 992DA ( or something... ) Unfortunately there is nothing about it in the Google...
I didn't have a chance to check if it can sleep :-)
 

Offline subratri

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #21 on: February 12, 2014, 06:47:01 am »
It looks like the old one, just the board is different. Unfortunately 992 is not close to mine :/
Will try to dismount this regulator, If will solve the shortcuts then I'm home ;)
 

Offline subratri

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #22 on: February 13, 2014, 08:42:56 am »
Hi again, finally i get the reasonable solution from them, they will post me whole circuit  board.  This time i will begin with taking pix of it :d will post it in hire too. In that case will be easier to solve problems like mine ;)
 

Offline hani93

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #23 on: March 09, 2014, 07:23:18 pm »
Hi!
I just bought an rework station YiHUA853D, and it brakes down after one hour of use :D
I can see yours boards are different then mine, but hopefully someone have  same unit as me.
I need to find out what is the L1 on the pix. It looks like resistor but is signed as L1. As you can see it is completely burned :/   
Can someone help me pls??
Thx a lot!

Got your board yet ?

here are some pics of working one...

(seems to be 2.2 Ohm 10% resistor)

« Last Edit: March 09, 2014, 07:25:56 pm by hani93 »
 

Offline subratri

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Re: YiHUA 853D rework station
« Reply #24 on: March 09, 2014, 09:34:09 pm »
Yes I get it but I haven't see it yet:) my girlfriend revived it on Tuesday. Unfortunately I'm away for a bit . As soon as I can will pix it... Ha. It is resistor :)
For now I can only say, this regulator is responsable not only for power supply. After I removed from the board only the iron was working.
Will do better report when will have a normal keyboard. Mobile is to ... Small?? :d
« Last Edit: March 09, 2014, 09:38:21 pm by subratri »
 


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