Author Topic: $20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project (Read 3439069 times)

Argiros · « **Reply #4375 on:** January 18, 2018, 03:10:31 pm »

Thank you madires ! Yes thats an ST7735. Sorry mate but I dont understand "So you would have to reverse engineer the pinout and configure the firmware accordingly"
If you can explain it a bit more...

I can restore it to "factory" settings because I saved: 1 the original flash , 2 the eeprom and 3 the fuse settings , IF I can delete it or "put" the chip in programming mode.

BUT HOW ?

perieanuo · « **Reply #4376 on:** January 18, 2018, 04:48:26 pm »

Quote from: Argiros on January 18, 2018, 03:10:31 pm

Thank you madires ! Yes thats an ST7735. Sorry mate but I dont understand "So you would have to reverse engineer the pinout and configure the firmware accordingly"
If you can explain it a bit more...

I can restore it to "factory" settings because I saved: 1 the original flash , 2 the eeprom and 3 the fuse settings , IF I can delete it or "put" the chip in programming mode.

BUT HOW ?

If you put wrong fuses maybe you need to rewrite chip with parallel programmer.

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Technobabble_ · « **Reply #4377 on:** January 18, 2018, 08:47:08 pm »

Hey all. Did anybody ever compile a list comparing the different versions of kits (barebones vs completed, smd vs through-hole models, etc.)? I understand each vendor may have its own part-of-the-week in theirs.

Thanks.

Argiros · « **Reply #4378 on:** January 19, 2018, 12:51:27 am »

Thanx perieanuo !
I can hook up directly to ATMEGA 328 OR to the board ISP interface from an LPT port ? And I can use the avrdude or avrdudes then ? Or I can use the USBASP USBISP AVR Programmer better ?

texaspyro · « **Reply #4379 on:** January 19, 2018, 12:53:36 am »

Or just spend a couple of bucks for a new AVR chip...

Argiros · « **Reply #4380 on:** January 19, 2018, 01:08:32 am »

I will make it work even if I desolder the smd ATMEGA 328 with my hot air gun, put it on a breadboard and reprogram it with arduino or whatever. I want this sh.t to work although I ordered a new rotary one 328A.
But I dont know how to make his flash and eeprom and what fuses I must use for the 328b. I dont know what constants I must change before compiling the source. Maybe someone make a precompile hex for the 328b models. (-;

Fumio · « **Reply #4381 on:** January 19, 2018, 04:18:48 am »

T3 s9014 is likely bad. Mine was bad and gave same symptom as you state. To check: before you start to unsolder the existing transistor run a ground from negative side of RED LED to ground. Doing this will create the ground that T3 should provide
Hope this is helpful
Fumio

perieanuo · « **Reply #4382 on:** January 19, 2018, 07:18:19 am »

Quote from: Argiros on January 19, 2018, 01:08:32 am

I will make it work even if I desolder the smd ATMEGA 328 with my hot air gun, put it on a breadboard and reprogram it with arduino or whatever. I want this sh.t to work although I ordered a new rotary one 328A.
But I dont know how to make his flash and eeprom and what fuses I must use for the 328b. I dont know what constants I must change before compiling the source. Maybe someone make a precompile hex for the 328b models. (-;

Search I posted myself compiled 1.28 hex/eep for ay-at longtime ago.

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Gregi · « **Reply #4383 on:** January 19, 2018, 10:42:04 am »

Hi guys, this is my first post here. Maybe a dumb question and maybe not. I want to buy one of those testers. Can you please give me some advice of which one is the best you can get today. What I mean is which one can be modded upgraded or whatever. I am kinda lost in these 170+ pages. I have seen that some of you ppl already made some modifications but I am lost anyway

So which one is the newest and what to look out for?

madires · « **Reply #4384 on:** January 19, 2018, 11:26:39 am »

The AY-AT is the most interesting clone at the moment. If you want a tester with all hardware options you would have to build one yourself based on the ATmega644/1284 circuit.

Gregi · « **Reply #4385 on:** January 19, 2018, 01:41:49 pm »

Great... Ty for quick answer. Btw anyone made atmega644/1284 based tester and if so does the firmware exist or I should start from scratch?

madires · « **Reply #4386 on:** January 19, 2018, 03:10:35 pm »

Karl-Heinz's excellent documentation includes a circuit for the ATmega644/1284 and I've posted a PDF of my 644/1284 dev kit a while ago. Both firmwares (k & m) support the ATmega644/1284.

texaspyro · « **Reply #4387 on:** January 19, 2018, 06:07:20 pm »

Quote from: madires on January 19, 2018, 03:10:35 pm

Karl-Heinz's excellent documentation includes a circuit for the ATmega644/1284 and I've posted a PDF of my 644/1284 dev kit a while ago. Both firmwares (k & m) support the ATmega644/1284.

Has anybody made any PCBs or a layout for a 644/1284 version available ? I have a bunch of 1284 chips.

madires · « **Reply #4388 on:** January 19, 2018, 06:20:01 pm »

Please see https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4yqyYy2DaakZzBVU3JDSXB6S1E

texaspyro · « **Reply #4389 on:** January 19, 2018, 06:31:44 pm »

Quote from: madires on January 19, 2018, 06:20:01 pm

Please see https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4yqyYy2DaakZzBVU3JDSXB6S1E

I did a little poking around there and did not see any layouts for a '1284 based board. What I'd like to find is a PCB for the '1284 chip in a DIP package.

Gregi · « **Reply #4390 on:** January 19, 2018, 09:55:41 pm »

What else you want to see on the DIP board? Lets call it like that. I have some experience with pcb making so i will look into it.

Edit: but hell its a nice looking board full SMD. Maybe it would be a blasphemy to modify it lol

texaspyro · « **Reply #4391 on:** January 19, 2018, 10:47:47 pm »

Quote from: Gregi on January 19, 2018, 09:55:41 pm

What else you want to see on the DIP board?

Support for all the new fangled features would be nice. Needs a nice color LCD. I prefer the DIP package because it's so easy to fry the processor with a wayward charged cap, etc. and changing a socketed DIP is a lot easier than SMD reworking a SMD package. Plus, I have a pile of Mega128's in the DIP40 package.

Gregi · « **Reply #4392 on:** January 20, 2018, 12:17:19 am »

It's like this... pcb is wide as DIP40, actualy a bit wider. It would look bad

but it is doable (draw the board from scratch)

Argiros · « **Reply #4393 on:** January 21, 2018, 07:54:54 pm »

Re: $20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project
« Reply #4383 on: January 19, 2018, 03:18:48 PM »
Say ThanksReplyQuote
T3 s9014 is likely bad. Mine was bad and gave same symptom as you state. To check: before you start to unsolder the existing transistor run a ground from negative side of RED LED to ground. Doing this will create the ground that T3 should provide
Hope this is helpful
Fumio

Thanx Fumio,
I see my board GM328B has q1 q2 q3 smd tranzistors Their values are: a19t , tl431a , 1am
When I power on the led is lighting..
Maybe the q3 is bad...

For the conversation about the new models and features, I have to say that a bigger screen will be much nicer and also the new features and better accuracy are always welcomed !

kelchm · « **Reply #4394 on:** January 21, 2018, 09:37:03 pm »

Is there any way to program a raw ATMEGA328P without an USPASP or equivalent programmer? I have several Arduinos available as well as a FTD1232 board.

madires · « **Reply #4395 on:** January 22, 2018, 11:08:51 am »

No, even a bootloader has to be programmed first. BTW, Karl-Heinz modified Optiboot to program the EEPROM also, in case someone is interested in ATmega bootloaders.

perieanuo · « **Reply #4396 on:** January 22, 2018, 11:55:07 am »

Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp

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vinceroger · « **Reply #4397 on:** January 22, 2018, 07:00:05 pm »

Quote from: kelchm on January 21, 2018, 09:37:03 pm

Is there any way to program a raw ATMEGA328P without an USPASP or equivalent programmer? I have several Arduinos available as well as a FTD1232 board.

maybe this way

kelchm · « **Reply #4398 on:** January 25, 2018, 02:24:27 am »

Quote from: perieanuo on January 22, 2018, 11:55:07 am

Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp

I ended up being lazy and just got a USBasp.

Has anyone else had issues with running a 20MHz crystal? I experienced really bad display corruption (missing/inforrect characters, random dots) and general flakiness after swapping the crystal and uploading the new firmware. I then swapped in a 16MHz crystal which seems to work fine.

I'm using 1.26M.

MDM3D · « **Reply #4399 on:** January 25, 2018, 02:37:32 am »

Quote from: kelchm on January 25, 2018, 02:24:27 am

Quote from: perieanuo on January 22, 2018, 11:55:07 am
Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp
I ended up being lazy and just got a USBasp.

Has anyone else had issues with running a 20MHz crystal? I experienced really bad display corruption (missing/inforrect characters, random dots) and general flakiness after swapping the crystal and uploading the new firmware. I then swapped in a 16MHz crystal which seems to work fine.

I'm using 1.26M.

Yes I thought it might have been from the long leads I soldered on for flashing but haven't had time to downgrade back to 16Mhz.

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Author Topic: $20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project (Read 3439069 times)

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