Author Topic: A look at the Uni-T UT210E (Read 439773 times)

stj · « **Reply #625 on:** January 15, 2019, 04:14:42 am »

the patches are for a 210e,
i dont have a datasheet for the chip in yours.
you can still do the backlight mod, but your switch matrix is visibly different.

btw, a 210e dump looks like this:

TheGrave · « **Reply #626 on:** February 06, 2019, 08:18:55 am »

While trying to figure out some issues caused by improper measuring technique I went into calibration mode without knowing what I'm doing (not sure on which position the dial was turned)? Got the Err0 message, turned it off. Stupid, stupid, stupid...Could I have screwed something?

Stinger · « **Reply #627 on:** February 21, 2019, 04:01:53 am »

Hello !

I looking for modify firmware of UT210E (6000 counts, DC first, order of mode, timer of backlight, APO...).

What is difference between these CH341A programmer ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html

stj · « **Reply #628 on:** February 21, 2019, 07:13:12 am »

no difference, the more expensive option has an extra cable adapter.

jayjr1105 · « **Reply #629 on:** February 21, 2019, 01:59:06 pm »

Quote from: Stinger on February 21, 2019, 04:01:53 am

Hello !

I looking for modify firmware of UT210E (6000 counts, DC first, order of mode, timer of backlight, APO...).

What is difference between these CH341A programmer ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html

Why not just use an arduino?

stj · « **Reply #630 on:** February 21, 2019, 02:59:10 pm »

Quote from: jayjr1105 on February 21, 2019, 01:59:06 pm

Quote from: Stinger on February 21, 2019, 04:01:53 am
Hello !

I looking for modify firmware of UT210E (6000 counts, DC first, order of mode, timer of backlight, APO...).

What is difference between these CH341A programmer ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html

Why not just use an arduino?

because it's an expensive pain in the ass, and you still need to buy an smd socket or clip.
why not use the correct tool for the job??

jayjr1105 · « **Reply #631 on:** February 21, 2019, 05:56:38 pm »

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016D5KOOC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_PxUBCbWE0H20P

$9 is expensive? I just soldered a few 22 gauge solid wires. Took 10 minutes

stj · « **Reply #632 on:** February 21, 2019, 07:15:34 pm »

$9 is double the cost of the real programmer that also handles 3.3v logic - unlike the arduino.
AND you get the soic clip.

Stinger · « **Reply #633 on:** February 23, 2019, 12:40:32 am »

Quote from: stj on February 21, 2019, 07:13:12 am

no difference, the more expensive option has an extra cable adapter.

Thank's !

Quote from: stj on February 21, 2019, 02:59:10 pm

Quote from: jayjr1105 on February 21, 2019, 01:59:06 pm

Why not just use an arduino?

because it's an expensive pain in the ass, and you still need to buy an smd socket or clip.
why not use the correct tool for the job??

Nice Answer !

I'm neewbie and Arduino necessite time and skills.

------------

Why dotless mod when screen can display dot in good place ?

Deveraux · « **Reply #634 on:** February 28, 2019, 01:09:18 pm »

I got my meter in the mail today, however, I should really have bought it from a reputable source and not from banggood.

The clamp doesn't work in any range, ac nor dc, so I'm now waiting for a response from customer support. I took a peek inside, to see if there's an obvious fault. Well, the whole row of capacitors along the side of the board is missing. As in, they were never there.

stj · « **Reply #635 on:** February 28, 2019, 05:08:16 pm »

zero the clamp, i think it only works after you zero it.
that's how DC works anyway.

jayjr1105 · « **Reply #636 on:** February 28, 2019, 05:13:34 pm »

Quote from: Deveraux on February 28, 2019, 01:09:18 pm

I got my meter in the mail today, however, I should really have bought it from a reputable source and not from banggood.

The clamp doesn't work in any range, ac nor dc, so I'm now waiting for a response from customer support. I took a peek inside, to see if there's an obvious fault. Well, the whole row of capacitors along the side of the board is missing. As in, they were never there.

Remember you can only clamp one wire. If you clamp, say a lamp cord, they cancel each other out and you won't get a reading. You need an AC line splitter to measure AC wires. With DC just clamp the red or black wire by itself.

Also, let's see a picture of the inside of yours. I have a couple hi res photos of mine we can compare.

Deveraux · « **Reply #637 on:** February 28, 2019, 07:37:13 pm »

D'oh! Don't I feel like an idiot!

Yes, it indeed works with a single strand.

I need to quit jumping to conclusions so often, it's a really bad habit.

The fact that all the capacitors are gone is still quite weird, though. All the pictures I've found have the whole row populated. Attached a photo of my board.

Zeroing is indeed needed. Every time. A bit annoying that.

jayjr1105 · « **Reply #638 on:** February 28, 2019, 07:51:25 pm »

WTH? that is odd they are all gone. Maybe someone with more knowledge can explain why 20 some smd caps are missing.

Martin72 · « **Reply #639 on:** February 28, 2019, 07:56:13 pm »

Hi,

Are there any further information ?
What exactly was done to get more bandwith and where the coax output is connected to ?

stj · « **Reply #640 on:** February 28, 2019, 11:51:34 pm »

the caps are related to the lcd drive,
maybe to supress noise from the scanning - they may have changed the display

Deveraux · « **Reply #641 on:** March 01, 2019, 09:46:04 am »

Quote from: stj on February 28, 2019, 11:51:34 pm

the caps are related to the lcd drive,
maybe to supress noise from the scanning - they may have changed the display

Makes sense.

bdlow · « **Reply #642 on:** March 10, 2019, 10:24:51 pm »

On and off over the past few weeks I've been playing with the UT210E, and have just cleaned up and published my notes on the thing.

https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E

This doc is the result of explorations into modding the Uni-T UT210E Clamp Meter; it's what I'd wish I'd had before wading through pages and pages of forum posts and datasheets, all in at least three languages. It includes an example of modifying a UT210E using a Bus Pirate.

Ben

bitseeker · « **Reply #643 on:** March 10, 2019, 11:41:27 pm »

Welcome to the forum, bdlow. Excellent documentation work you've done! Thanks for pulling it all together in an easy-to-consume format.

eslavko · « **Reply #644 on:** March 16, 2019, 07:56:35 am »

Hello...
I have my UT210E working years and I'm happy with results. But one day when battery dies and I replace it the meter stop working. When I switch it on I got text "CAL" in display. So does someone know how to callibrate it? I assume that flashing eeprom should help but is it there some other way to do it without programming eeprom directly?

thanks

thierer · « **Reply #645 on:** March 17, 2019, 10:59:33 am »

First of all, thanks to everybody involved for all the valuable information in this thread. Made my UT210E so much more useful!

Also, I'd like to give a quick heads up to anyone trying to do the modifikations on a linux machine (browsing the thread I haven't found any evidence of such a person, but anyway

)

I planned to follow Johnex's excellent walkthrough for a solderless method using a CH341A adapter and a test clip. I'm on Arch Linux and so I was happy to find an AUR package for commandtab's CH341A programming tool that claims to support the AT24C02A (it has a command line option to select it). Except it doesn't work... I then found danman's post which pointed me to plumbum's patches, that make the tool actually work for the AT24C02A.

I asked both commandtab to merge plumbum's fixes and the AUR maintainer to switch to plumbum's version. As a quick fix until either of these happen I made a modified version of the AUR package which uses plumbum's version.

stj · « **Reply #646 on:** March 17, 2019, 01:19:06 pm »

i am using Linux,
all my machines are free of the devil's o.s. (m$)

thierer · « **Reply #647 on:** March 23, 2019, 08:11:33 am »

Quote from: thierer on March 17, 2019, 10:59:33 am

I asked both commandtab to merge plumbum's fixes and the AUR maintainer to switch to plumbum's version. As a quick fix until either of these happen I made a modified version of the AUR package which uses plumbum's version.

Update: plumbum's fixes got merged, so no need to change the repository any more.

Stinger · « **Reply #648 on:** March 24, 2019, 01:13:10 am »

Quote from: bdlow on March 10, 2019, 10:24:51 pm

On and off over the past few weeks I've been playing with the UT210E, and have just cleaned up and published my notes on the thing.

https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E

This doc is the result of explorations into modding the Uni-T UT210E Clamp Meter; it's what I'd wish I'd had before wading through pages and pages of forum posts and datasheets, all in at least three languages. It includes an example of modifying a UT210E using a Bus Pirate.

Ben

Thank's for your work !

I wait CH341A programmer for mods (noob inside

).

Mortymore · « **Reply #649 on:** April 18, 2019, 11:18:42 pm »

Did the mod today with an Arduino Uno and the sketch provided by jayjr1105, on reply #550 (pag23)

WARNING: Don't try this at home

I didn't solder any wires or used a clip. Just poke the pins into the 5 holes (they made good contact) and secured the one for reset, firmly against the capacitor (that goes to pin 55 of the DM1106)

You have been warned.

One thing that I've not read anyone talk about is about capacitance measurement (I read all the 26 pages, but sure some of the replies "in diagonal"). I didn't done any thorough test on accuracy. It seem fairly OK, but I was surprised by how fast the big capacitance as measured. An Amprobe AM-530-EUR take ages to measure the mF range. This got the job done for 40mF in few seconds.

Thanks to everyone that has given any kind of contribute for this mod to be at this stage.

I'm still thinking about Joe Smith's hack that stretched this probe up to 100KHz BW. Didn't quite get how it was done, but someone here (sorry I don't recall the nick) suggested a replacement of the quad op-amp OPA4330 for a AD8630. It has much higher BW. Despite the high cost of the op-amp compared to the low cost of the clamp, anyone has tried something like this?


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Author Topic: A look at the Uni-T UT210E (Read 439773 times)

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