Maxlor,Update? What more do you want to know? The only thing I can add now is that I periodically checked its DCV and Resistance readings against a reference for a couple of months to see whether it'd drift like some other Uni-T meters. It doesn't, I get the same reading every time.
Do you have any update for us? It was more than 6 months ago that you posted your very detailed initial review of the UNI-T UT210E.
The only thing I can add now is that I periodically checked its DCV and Resistance readings against a reference for a couple of months to see whether it'd drift like some other Uni-T meters. It doesn't, I get the same reading every time.
Other than that, I don't use it terribly often, mostly when trying to figure out what some battery is doing without having to disconnect it. In those instances, it's certainly a nice to have tool.
As with any clamp meter in DC current mode, zeroing is important but can be finicky. I rested the meter on the table and tried not to move it when changing ranges or pressing the zero button. This way, zeroing was good for up to a minute, at which point it started to drift more than 2 or 3 mA.When I first got mine I put a pair of AAA NiMH batteries in it because that was all I had lying around. On the 2 amp range, after zeroing, it would drift maybe 40 mA in 1 minute, then zero again and it would drift again. Then just today I replaced the batteries with normal alkalines and unexpectedly the drift has reduced by a factor of 10 or better. The alkalines would be a higher voltage than the NiMHs I used so that may be a factor to consider. The low battery indicator was not coming on though.
There's the UT211B which costs nearly 3 times as much. None of their other clamps have 1mA DC resolution.Thank you, you saved me some time.
Any idea what the three blue components next to the PTCs are? They seem to be labeled DT1,DT2,DT3 ?
Hello, included with the button held down blue and yellow, huddled all settings become vrat.Servis manual for configuring found. :'(
Press the blue and yellow button, and turned on. Reset calibration. :-//
I have purchased the said meter and I believe I got my money's worth. Most valuable feature for me on this meter is 1mA current resolution.Should be simple to probe around the input stage and find what you're looking for.
What I am wondering now, is there a way to tap into the current signal somewhere on the meter and display it on an oscilloscope?
I have purchased the said meter and I believe I got my money's worth. Most valuable feature for me on this meter is 1mA current resolution.Should be simple to probe around the input stage and find what you're looking for.
What I am wondering now, is there a way to tap into the current signal somewhere on the meter and display it on an oscilloscope?
Yes, 1 mA resolution DC and AC. But you have to keep in mind that simply moving the meter around in free air can on DC introduce +/- 10 mA easily, from earth's and other stray magnetic fields.Yes, I expect that, given that at this level, DC fields are quite significant. It is the "noise" level for these measurements. Unless they make a clamp with a smaller loop, this is as far as it goes. Still, it looks impressive.
Still a great low current DC clamp meter for the price.
Awesome work joeqsmith. That signal look pretty clean. I hope once you perfect the hack you will post the steps for newbs like myself. Thank you in advance.
The CP-05 is missing the 400mA range and the highest resolution it has is 10mA compared to CP-06 with 1mA resolution.
The CP-06 I have is within the specs listed, therefore I would not hesitate to get CP-05 if it meets your requirements.
I love watching/reading reviews so if you do get CP-05 please make a post. Perhaps making a CP-05/CP-06 thread and moving our posts there wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't want to disrespect the OP by cluttering up the UT210E thread.
The spec for CP-05 a bit confusing to me. It says Min resolution is 1mA then below that it says Output sensitivity on 4A range is 10mA/1mV. Can it measures low Currents below 10mA?
The magnetic core is actually insulated on the business end of the clamp, which surprises me. I thought, especially for a clamp that can measure down to such low currents, you would have to make sure your magnetic loop is as much closed as possible.I expect that if the core was completely closed, that is to say, the metal ends were touching, it would saturate very easily when measuring DC currents. Bit of a compromise between low end sensitivity and high end range. But then, there must be another gap in the core where the sensor is sandwiched.
Took at look at mine and the data sheets. Seems like we could add RS232, which for me would not be very helpfulAu contraire! Fitting a BLE module would make this already excellent meter way better. Why? Because getting the bastard to perfectly sit and read DC current AND be visible while working on a loom of cables in the cramped footwell of a car, for example, is a nightmare.
Op-amps made it in yesterday. Won't be too much longer and we can see how well this is going to work.
Op-amps made it in yesterday. Won't be too much longer and we can see how well this is going to work.
Took at look at mine and the data sheets. Seems like we could add RS232, which for me would not be very helpfulAu contraire! Fitting a BLE module would make this already excellent meter way better. Why? Because getting the bastard to perfectly sit and read DC current AND be visible while working on a loom of cables in the cramped footwell of a car, for example, is a nightmare.
A remote readout is a perfect application for this meter! I did it with a Vichy 99 but this one is far better! .. off to read the datasheets... :-+
PS how do I use the emotes ?
PS how do I use the emotes ?
Unless you're on Tapatalk, you should just be able to click on the emoticons above the reply box and they'll insert automatically into your reply. :)
Based on the information at Kerry Wong's website, I was able to make a little modification to this meter: 6000 counts instead of 2000. Pics or it didn't happen? See below. I didn't show pics of clamp meter current measurement, but they get 6000 counts too.
....
The details of the 6000 counts mod are pretty straightforward. The EEPROM contains data at specific locations to tell the meter when to auto-range up and down. These are set to 2200 and 190 respectively. I simply set these to the default of 6200 and 580, so that the meter stays in the lower range until over 6000 counts are displayed. Simple. Refer to the translated data sheet on Kerry Wong's site. Note that I found that I needed to remove the EEPROM to write to it, since it is connected directly (no series resistor) to the DTM0660, and it was preventing me from driving the signals to talk to it in-circuit. Note that UNI-T does sell a 'better' version of this meter with 6000 counts, and at over twice the price. ;D
2000 counts is one thing I did not like about this meter and now I see a 6k mod :-+ thx macboy.Yes, I tried, using a bus pirate connected to the 5 pin header on the PCB (see photos earlier in the thread). The BP could snoop the bus and see valid transactions whenever the unit was turned on or function was changed. When trying to read or write, the BP always complained about the lines not going high. Unfortunately the microprocessor seems to drive those lines low when not actively talking to the EEPROM... It does not float them like it should. So I pulled and reinstalled the EEPROM (a few times). I used a TL866 and a SOIC test socket to read and write it.
macboy, I am hoping I don't have to pull the eeprom :scared: Confirming, you tried attaching external 5v to VCC and through 10k resistors to SCL/SDA and it didn't work?
I'm concerning about maximum current capability. I normally don't measure more than 50 amps but little times I want to measure the consumption of some high power car audio amps in the range of 150 amps.
Did you test with more than 100 amps?
There appears to be a small catch the the 6000 count mode. If you are using the DC current mode and zero out the offset, the range appears to revert to 2000 counts. A quick glance over Kerry's translated data sheet, I do not see a way around this.
There appears to be a small catch the the 6000 count mode. If you are using the DC current mode and zero out the offset, the range appears to revert to 2000 counts. A quick glance over Kerry's translated data sheet, I do not see a way around this.
Does it revert back to 2k temporary and power cycle gets you back to 6k?
I wonder whats at 10h, 11h. Maybe it uses that when you zero out?
Very thanks joeqsmith for your help. :-+
Maybe if the clamp becomes magnetized we can degaussing it simply measuring AC current, it makes sense this?
It's a good idea to hack the PROM to avoid the limitation on the 100A scale. If someone find the correct value to write to the EEPROM please post it.
I see, at the manufacturer web, there is another model (LT210D http://www.uni-trend.com/en/product/2014_1127_1026.html (http://www.uni-trend.com/en/product/2014_1127_1026.html) ) can measure up to 200A but did not have the 2A scale and we lost the 1 milliampere resolution. May be the current sensor is different or the UT210E has a better opamp.
I'm going to order one unit, I think it would be very useful to me and the price is not too much.
Wow, those crazy Russians extended it to 9999 counts :-DMM They say "inclusive of 2 A mode". So maybe they worked out the bug with the zero on 2 A mode which reverts to 2k counts. I'll need to try this one out. They are changing lots of stuff in the 0x80 to 0xBF region which is not documented in the DTM0660 datasheet.
Here (http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1010548&postcount=197) and here (http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1010682&postcount=200) I find some information about ROM data for modding the UT210E.
But sorry, I don't understand this language.
I hope it will be useful for you.
| Addr | OLD | NEW |
| 10 | 70 | 10 |
| 11 | 17 | 27 |
| 12 | 98 | 0F |
| 13 | 08 | 27 |
| 87 | 17 | 16 |
| 8B | 19 | 18 |
| 8D | 1B | 1A |
| 8E | 04 | 03 |
| 97 | 16 | 17 |
| 9B | 18 | 19 |
| 9D | 1A | 1B |
| 9E | 05 | 04 |
| FC | 0F | 00 |
| AE | 00 | 05 |
| BE | 00 | 06 |
I don't remember if there was a millivolt range in either DC or AC previously, but there is not now (0.000 V to 9.999 V is the lowest range). Can someone check?
As above, I lifted the front (pins 4-7) of the EEPROM a little, just enough to remove the solder bridging the pins to the board. Then I soldered 5 cm long wire-wrap wires (30 ga Kynar) to the leads, soldered those to a 5-pin socket. Then I use breadboard jumper wires from that socket to a 8-pin DIP machine pin socket placed in the TL866 ZIF. It's less complicated than it sounds.I have not tried but here is what user alvadep wrote:
In regards to programming the EEPROM in this device. Everything is provided, there is a place for the installation of the connector, pitch is 2mm. The pinouts: GND, VCC, TEST, SCL, SDA. You can directly connect TEST to GND. VCC taken directly from the programmer PICKIT2. The only thing you need to remember to switch UT210E selector to any position except OFF.
As above, I lifted the front (pins 4-7) of the EEPROM a little, just enough to remove the solder bridging the pins to the board. Then I soldered 5 cm long wire-wrap wires (30 ga Kynar) to the leads, soldered those to a 5-pin socket. Then I use breadboard jumper wires from that socket to a 8-pin DIP machine pin socket placed in the TL866 ZIF. It's less complicated than it sounds. I reprogrammed the EEPROM with the Russian hacker's data deltas (as below) and ... boom! Well, no, no boom, just a 9999 count meter. The issue of 2000 counts on the 2 A range (only that one) when using ZERO remains unfortunately. Besides the 9999 counts, the other change is defaulting to DC for all volt and amp measurements.
Addr OLD NEW 10 70 10 11 17 27 12 98 0F 13 08 27 87 17 16 8B 19 18 8D 1B 1A 8E 04 03 97 16 17 9B 18 19 9D 1A 1B 9E 05 04 FC 0F 00
Note address FC is the backlight timeout, and 00 means do not time out (never turn off automatically). Otherwise, the value is in seconds. I set mine to 1E (30 seconds). Make sure to archive a copy of your unmodified EEPROM data.
I don't remember if there was a millivolt range in either DC or AC previously, but there is not now (0.000 V to 9.999 V is the lowest range). Can someone check?
With selector in V range order is: V(DC) - V(AC) - V(DC mV) - V(AC mV)
AE: 00 05
BE: 00 06
I tried to enable the frequency counter and temperature measurement - but they do not work.
In conclusion, - these are the most mods that you can safely do to UT210E:
1) Selector on V, ranges: V (DC) - V (AC) - V (DC mV) - V (AC mV)
2) Selector on R, functions: resistance - connectivity- diode - capacity
3) Selector on 2A: A (DC) - A (AC)
4) Selector on 20A : A (DC) - A (AC)
5) Selector on 100A Switch: A (DC) - A (AC)
6) Change/Remove the Automatic backlight off
7) Extended range up to 10,000 counts. This means that up to 9,999 counts in any mode(including 2A) comes with three characters after the decimal point, then it switches range. The lower limit left as is, down to 1.90 will be two decimal, then switch range. Most of the time this allows more convenient to work with similar values, without changing the range.
Excellent. Now could you please upload some pictures that we can actually see? If Dave's crappy forum limitation is stopping you, I highly recommend imgur.com (http://imgur.com) - no signups, adverts, limits, or other nonsense.As above, I lifted the front (pins 4-7) of the EEPROM a little, just enough to remove the solder bridging the pins to the board. Then I soldered 5 cm long wire-wrap wires (30 ga Kynar) to the leads, soldered those to a 5-pin socket. Then I use breadboard jumper wires from that socket to a 8-pin DIP machine pin socket placed in the TL866 ZIF. It's less complicated than it sounds.I have not tried but here is what user alvadep wrote:QuoteIn regards to programming the EEPROM in this device. Everything is provided, there is a place for the installation of the connector, pitch is 2mm. The pinouts: GND, VCC, TEST, SCL, SDA. You can directly connect TEST to GND. VCC taken directly from the programmer PICKIT2. The only thing you need to remember to switch UT210E selector to any position except OFF.
"UPDATE"
user kDnZP also wrote:
In addition to switching selector in any position other than Off,
My device had no pull-up resistor - took me about three hours, with attentive observation and trying to understand - what is not right. I soldered an adapter for usbasp <-> clip (used SMD pull-up resistors , so to small to see). So clip on a chip, selector switch in something other than OFF, and you can be read / write.
Excellent. Now could you please upload some pictures that we can actually see? If Dave's crappy forum limitation is stopping you, I highly recommend imgur.com (http://imgur.com) - no signups, adverts, limits, or other nonsense.
Addr 24H: 25H "base" (default 0064H - 10.0mV), in Addr 26H: 27H "resolution" (default 0096H - 15.0mV). NCV has 5 levels (four dashes and EF symbol). The levels are calculated according to the formula LEVEL = (X - "base") / "resolution", where X - the input signal (AC, mV). The result is rounded to the nearest whole. For example, if the input signal is 50.0mV, then the level=(50.0 - 10.0) /15.0 = 2.666 ... is rounded to 2, which corresponds to "-". If less than 1, then 'EF" is displayed.
With this Information you can fine tune the NCV function.
For current limit, I am thinking perhaps Address 1C: 0Ah could be a multiple of 10 upper 100A limit? What do you think?
Also, just tried another quick test. At least in AC 100A range, it still limits at 100A.
For current limit, I am thinking perhaps Address 1C: 0Ah could be a multiple of 10 upper 100A limit? What do you think?
Also, just tried another quick test. At least in AC 100A range, it still limits at 100A.
Hmm. Maybe the pullups of the Bus Pirate (10 K + a CD4066 switch) were not strong enough. I'll try re-programming at the 5 pin connector again with the TL866 as a programmer. I had wanted to use the BP since it can write single bytes, but the TL866 can only write the entire device. In the end I used the TL866 anyway.As above, I lifted the front (pins 4-7) of the EEPROM a little, just enough to remove the solder bridging the pins to the board. Then I soldered 5 cm long wire-wrap wires (30 ga Kynar) to the leads, soldered those to a 5-pin socket. Then I use breadboard jumper wires from that socket to a 8-pin DIP machine pin socket placed in the TL866 ZIF. It's less complicated than it sounds.I have not tried but here is what user alvadep wrote:QuoteIn regards to programming the EEPROM in this device. Everything is provided, there is a place for the installation of the connector, pitch is 2mm. The pinouts: GND, VCC, TEST, SCL, SDA. You can directly connect TEST to GND. VCC taken directly from the programmer PICKIT2. The only thing you need to remember to switch UT210E selector to any position except OFF.
"UPDATE"
user kDnZP also wrote:
In addition to switching selector in any position other than Off,
My device had no pull-up resistor - took me about three hours, with attentive observation and trying to understand - what is not right. I soldered an adapter for usbasp <-> clip (used SMD pull-up resistors , so to small to see). So clip on a chip, selector switch in something other than OFF, and you can be read / write.
| Locations | Selector switch position |
| 0x87, 0x97, 0xA7 and 0xB7 | 2A |
| 0x8B, 0x9B, 0xAB and 0xBB | 20A |
| 0x8C, 0x9C, 0xAC and 0xBC | NCV |
| 0x8D, 0x9D, 0xAD and 0xBD | 100A |
| 0x8E, 0x9E, 0xAE and 0xBE | Volts |
| 0x8F, 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF | Resistance/Continuity/Diode/Capacitance |
All this was to say that I recommend leaving the maximum counts to 8000 or less.
Cool. Which clips did you get for that?
All this was to say that I recommend leaving the maximum counts to 8000 or less.
What values I should change/use to get the 8000 count setting? I'm a "little" confused with those 10-13 location values...
Btw. I used a cheap CH341A programmer and test clips from eBay, programming worked just fine. Only needed to turn meter's mode switch to voltage position, didn't work in the off position.
10H, 11H 1770H Default full range 6000d (10H stores low byte 70H, 11H stores high byte 17H)
same low byte/high byte arrangement below
12H, 13H 1838H Range switch upper limit 6200d (for full range of 4000d the upper limit is 4200d)
First you need to convert 8000 decimal to hex. Using Windows Calculator in programmer mode, Make sure radio button is on Dec. Type 8000 then flip to Hex and you get 1F40.
My device had no pull-up resistor - took me about three hours, with attentive observation and trying to understand - what is not right. I soldered an adapter for usbasp <-> clip (used SMD pull-up resistors , so to small to see). So clip on a chip, selector switch in something other than OFF, and you can be read / write.
Haven't read the whole thread (so sorry if this has been asked previously), how easily does it pick up interference from nearby cables for DC current? Would you at all be able to get a reasonable reading from one of the wires in a ribbon cable? If you have one cable through the clamp and one just outside - but next to it - do you get an additive reading?No problem taking readings with the return wire nearby. Conductors outside the clamp, even touching it, do not affect the reading.
Some testing for this would be very much appreciated.
Haven't read the whole thread (so sorry if this has been asked previously), how easily does it pick up interference from nearby cables for DC current? Would you at all be able to get a reasonable reading from one of the wires in a ribbon cable? If you have one cable through the clamp and one just outside - but next to it - do you get an additive reading?
Some testing for this would be very much appreciated.
A conductor should induce a magnetic field in the core of the clamp indiscriminate of being in the loop or outside.
Could you explain why?
[/quote
Nope, I'm wrong :-+
Why are you wrong?A conductor should induce a magnetic field in the core of the clamp indiscriminate of being in the loop or outside.
Could you explain why?
[/quote
Nope, I'm wrong :-+
That is impressive, thanks!Actually it's about what you'd expect, and roughly the same range as the errors you get when you just rotate the meter and thus change its exposure to ambient magnetic fields. There won't be anything in the meter to counteract these types of fields specifically.
Anyone know how they achieve this?
A conductor should induce a magnetic field in the core of the clamp indiscriminate of being in the loop or outside. Are they somehow using the radial nature of the magnetic field being induced?
Just wondered how much drift and stability this little tool has on the 2A DC setting?This has been answered in the very first post in this thread, and several later ones as well. Or are you asking about anything other than very short term drift? If so, realize that this is not a precision instrument, it can drift a fair amount and not get anywhere near its accuracy boundaries.
I just found that there is a brother model called the UT210'D' that has an AC/DC amp range to 20/200Amps with a resolution of 10mA. Also comes with frequency and temperature readings.I don't see the point in the D model. 1mA resolution is a lot more useful than just twice the max range. Or in other words, if I didn't need 1mA resolution, I'd pick one of the many clamps that go into several hundred to 1000 Amps.
Anyone used it or can comment on what's likely to be more real world usable for testing low current draw for vehicle battery drains etc
Just wondered how much drift and stability this little tool has on the 2A DC setting?This has been answered in the very first post in this thread, and several later ones as well. Or are you asking about anything other than very short term drift? If so, realize that this is not a precision instrument, it can drift a fair amount and not get anywhere near its accuracy boundaries.I just found that there is a brother model called the UT210'D' that has an AC/DC amp range to 20/200Amps with a resolution of 10mA. Also comes with frequency and temperature readings.I don't see the point in the D model. 1mA resolution is a lot more useful than just twice the max range. Or in other words, if I didn't need 1mA resolution, I'd pick one of the many clamps that go into several hundred to 1000 Amps.
Anyone used it or can comment on what's likely to be more real world usable for testing low current draw for vehicle battery drains etc
Battery drain and charge currents in vehicles is usually on the order of a few amps, so you'd use the 20A mode for that most of the time. So either device would work. Don't leave the clamp on when starting the engine though as the current will be in the several hundreds of A; if I understand Joe's post earlier in this thread correctly, this overcurrent might magnetize the ferrite.
The extra features don't matter to me much, I have them in other, better multimeters. Imo they might as well have simplified the device and left out the jacks and associated modes. We like this meter because it's pretty much the only clamp at this price point that measures high res DC current; for anything other than measuring current other meters are easier to use, more accurate and generally better.
When measure current, unplug test pen to avoid electric shock.I get that the accidental contact with the test leads may disturb the current clamp measurement, but is there really a risk of electric shock if somebody touches them?
I don't have data about batch variation, and I doubt others here have tested enough of these meters to make a statement about that with any confidence. Lacking that, your next best thing is the stated accuracy, which is 2% +- 8 counts for the 2A DC range, and 2% +- 3 counts for the other DC ranges.What i was asking for was 'how many mA's do your meter's drift' to get a real world feedback from you guys, to get a picture of average/min/max variation between ones actually used.
Magnetizing might happen when you go above 100A, switch setting doesn't matter.
I was wondering how much zero drift different ones had (batch variation?) as my primary use for 1 would be Parasitic battery drains when cars 'shut down' , like joeqsmith commented on.
...
Have you guys any idea what limit's the UT210E will handle before this 'set' magnetism happens? Is it dependant on the setting your on? i.e. 2A and you measure 150% of this........or 150% of it's 100A maximum value (does that make sense?) Basically if you overload the hall sensor? or is it the clamp core that becomes magnetised?
If this 'set' condition happens....what is the resultant behaviour and what was your degauss tool to fix it.
Thanks Guy's :)
The instructions for the UT210E warn in the AC/DC current measurement section:QuoteWhen measure current, unplug test pen to avoid electric shock.I get that the accidental contact with the test leads may disturb the current clamp measurement, but is there really a risk of electric shock if somebody touches them?
What are the voltage levels induced in the instrument while using the clamp?
So a clamp for DC= useless?:-DD
Thanks joe & Maxlor but i think you misunderstood what i was trying to establish?
Car trunk lights etc 'stuck on' is easy stuff that my Lem clamp will find easy even with 100mA resolution.
I'm after confirmation that this UT210E is stable for periods of time when watching for small intermittent active drains from body modules etc switching.
Some cars can take upto an hour to shut down (tho i haven't yet found any)
If this meter is up and down like a fiddlers elbow (like a few i've tested) it is of no help :--
What i'm asking you guys is can you tell me by how much does 'YOUR' UT210E drift over 10/20/30 minutes.
Hope you understand my question now
If you set it down in 2mA mode and watch the meter without touching it, expect it to drift beyond 10mA in about a minute. I haven't done any testing beyond that, but I've seen offsets of a few hundred mA while setting up, just moving the meter around. So I don't expect prolongued measurements to be very useful; zeroing is an essential part of the measurement. If you need to track power consumption ever time, you should use this procedure: zero, clamp on, read value, clamp off, repeat after a couple of minutes.
Mind you, this applies to DC measurements, which are difficult to do with a clamp because of $physics. Any DC clamp will have the same problem. It's much easier to get good AC readings :)
So a clamp for DC= useless?Hell NO.......i'd be lost without using my one for car current draw. Stable = Brilliant. Unstable = Useless!!
Well Joe....what can i say.....apart from 'Brilliant' :clap: :-+ :-DMM
That was just what i was trying to find out :)
Your scientific approach now makes me understand why you are a 'SUPER Contributor'.....Great Stuff 8) :-+
4-6mA drift is an excellent result and 100% usable.
Have you any idea if your others (ones not modded) are similar in performance?
Do you think the firmware mod that make it read to 6 or 8000 counts(but no zero :-- ) might affect it's drift/accuracy? 6 or 8 amps down to 1mA would be ultra useful 8)
I'm actually looking to get the UT210E with the 1mA resolution, the info about the UT210'D' (with 10mA) was just to make people aware/give them the option.
Thanks again for your Excellent help :-+So a clamp for DC= useless?Hell NO.......i'd be lost without using my one for car current draw. Stable = Brilliant. Unstable = Useless!!
If you start pulling circuits, you just make more problems. Amp clamp is THE only way to go.
No.Is that technically possible in a DMM?
Yeah it is, it's actually a pretty common feature among more expensive clamp meters.What ones? How do they do it?
Is it possible to hack cheap ones to provide at least such features?UT210E chipset itself does have support for MIN/MAX.
Jumping back a bit in the discussion, I'd like to see what the low current measurement drift is like with the meter running on an external regulated supply rather than it's own batteries, and also if the drift changes much with different but constant supply voltage.
I was using my UT210E on the bench yesterday and after 5 minutes or so it would beep, then a short time later it would shut down. Nothing unusual about that, just saving the battery. The thing is, I would have to turn it off, turn the DC current I was monitoring off, turn the meter on again, put it to DC, zero it, then turn the DC current back on again! It would be so much better if when it beeped I could simply push one of the buttons and make it continue another 5 minutes. Any way to add that facility? Or does it already exist and I haven't seen it?
Yes, 1 mA resolution DC and AC. But you have to keep in mind that simply moving the meter around in free air can on DC introduce +/- 10 mA easily, from earth's and other stray magnetic fields.The DC reading on my new UT210E varies as much as +-120mA just from moving it around in free air. Is this typical, or does the meter have a problem?
Still a great low current DC clamp meter for the price.
Do not move the meter when taking a measurement with the clamp, especially for small DC currents. Zero the meter and read the measurement as soon as possible without changing its position and orientation. When you move the meter, you change the way any magnetic fields in the environment act on the clamp, and hence affect the measured value.Thank you. I understand. But is +/-120mA typical for the meter? Rotating my meter by 180deg can change the reading by 240mA. Thats 1 1/3 mA change in reading per degree of rotation. If that magnitude is typical and expected due to the earths magnetic field, then I've learned something and I'll keep in mind that a very steady hand is required to get 10mA accuracy, and that it's probably not possible to get better than 5mA accuracy by hand. On the other hand, if it indicates that the meter has a problem, I'll return it for a better copy.
That's a pretty high variation, but consider that the Earth isn't the only source of magnetic fields. You may be picking up something from other electronic devices, power lines, large metal objects (desk/workbench?), etc.Thanks for the suggestion.
See if you get the same behavior outdoors. It's possible the issue is with the meter, but it'd be the first I've heard of it for the UT210E.
7 pages is a lot to read. Pg 4 post 96 may be of interest.I ended up sending it back. Even when I was careful, as often as not it would read out of spec when measuring low DC current. If I understand your post 96, I may have been able to tweak the trimpots to bring the offset down and reduce the variability by adjusting the null, but after doing this the 'range calibration ratio' may have still been off, and I don't see how to adjust that yet. Today was the last day I could send it back. If I had more time I might have tried adjusting the trim-pots. I'll order another and see if it behaves a better.
7 pages is a lot to read. Pg 4 post 96 may be of interest.I ended up sending it back. Even when I was careful, as often as not it would read out of spec when measuring low DC current. If I understand your post 96, I may have been able to tweak the trimpots to bring the offset down and reduce the variability by adjusting the null, but after doing this the 'range calibration ratio' may have still been off, and I don't see how to adjust that yet. Today was the last day I could send it back. If I had more time I might have tried adjusting the trim-pots. I'll order another and see if it behaves a better.
Those things are a switch mode power supply with no output rectifier or filter capacitor. They output a square kind of AC wave at maybe 50-100kHz so probably the meter cannot respond to this high frequency.
Last day! :o Yeah, good thing you sent it back. No need to mess with it if you can get it exchanged. Hopefully, the replacement will be fine. Let us know.My replacement ut210e got here. It's better than the one I returned, but still varies quite a bit more that yours. I set it for 2A DC and zeroed the meter. Rotating it up and down by 180 deg can still cause the reading to vary by 145mA. That's two different meters from two different vendors, so I'll assume that this amount of variation is typical, and I'll just ignore the least significant digit when reading in the DC mA range.
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
7A 98 06 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 5A 02 09 A0 FF 0A 3D 13 0A 5D 03 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
83 75 EC 70 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 48 7E 01 00 BA 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
C2 7F 00 80 0A 80 E0 7C 07 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 49 02 E5 03 59 05
4A 02 EB 03 6E 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00
Finally I cracked open my ut210e to mod the eeprom. I am using Arduino wired directly to the header next to the chip. At first the chip would not respond. I then disconnected the WP pin 7 from GND and now I can dump the eeprom. But as soon as WP is grounded the chip will not respond. I noticed when WP is grounded the SCL and SDA drop to ~2.5volts.
Any ideas?
VCC=4.90V
WP=4.90V
SCL=4.70V
SDA=4.85VVCC=4.84V
WP=0.01V
SCL=2.34V
SDA=2.40VSomething very odd going on there. First I've heard of this. :-//
//Dotless mode calibration data, copied from 0x50, 0x51
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x56, (byte) 0x83);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x57, (byte) 0x75);12: 98 38
13: 08 1816: 3D FF
17: 3D FF
18: 3C FF
19: 3C FF
1C: 0A FF56: 00 ??
57: 80 ??
87: 17 1C
97: 16 1D
A7: 00 16
B7: 00 178B: 19 18
9B: 18 198D: 1B 1A
9D: 1A 1B
8E: 04 03
9E: 05 04
AE: 00 05
BE: 00 069C: 00 02
AC: 00 1D FB: 0F 1E FC: 0F B4Wow, flywheelz, you've been busy. Good to see you've had success. Has this not come up before or do I just not recall it? It makes sense, though, as putting processors into reset is a common method for freeing up a bus when snooping.
old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
old new
19: 3C 0B
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.
Remember that problem when you Zero the meter in 2A mode and it reverts to 2000 count. Well, in the dotless mode you get 6000 count or whatever you count you set in eeprom. So you will see say 5670 which means 5.670amps.
The firmware in the OTP memory hasn't been programmed to make these modes revert back to 2000 counts after zeroing, because these modes are not used in the meter, unlike the lower ranges. The IC doesn't actually know if it measuring 6 or 6000 amps, rest of the circuit will handle scaling the input... Tell IC that you are measuring higher range, but don't change anything else -> decimal point moves, making reading 10x, 100x, 1000x higher/lower.
Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
That group is really digging into it. So is the decimal gone as they suggested?
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC, the decimal is shown. Now select DC, the decimal goes away. Don't zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter now starts beeping at about 600mA.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC and then DC. Zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
So it's not a real clean setup IMO. Maybe I missed something.
...
However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
In post #182 I wrote some info about beeping. Perhaps you can try set FFh at address 19h. Are you sure its starts beeping with 600mA or 6000 which is actually 6A?
...
However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
In post #182 I wrote some info about beeping. Perhaps you can try set FFh at address 19h. Are you sure its starts beeping with 600mA or 6000 which is actually 6A?
Correct location would be 0x1C. That sets the alarm limit in hundreds of milliamps for "dotless 2A" mode. Value is originally 0x0A or 10, making the limit 10*100mA = 1A = "1000" on the display.
So you can have the alarm in volts mode when measuring mains, without having ridiculously low alarm limit in current mode. It was probably just coincidence that original value was so close to the value you set for voltage mode.
Thanks for clarifying it. I test the address 19h is for V mode. Now I wonder what 16h to 18h affect.
...
However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
In post #182 I wrote some info about beeping. Perhaps you can try set FFh at address 19h. Are you sure its starts beeping with 600mA or 6000 which is actually 6A?
Correct location would be 0x1C. That sets the alarm limit in hundreds of milliamps for "dotless 2A" mode. Value is originally 0x0A or 10, making the limit 10*100mA = 1A = "1000" on the display.
So you can have the alarm in volts mode when measuring mains, without having ridiculously low alarm limit in current mode. It was probably just coincidence that original value was so close to the value you set for voltage mode.
I spent a little time playing with modifying the EEPROM.
First, a comment about setting up 9999 counts. This absolutely works fine for DCV and resistance measurements. For ACV (or ACA), there is an issue. The problem is caused by the fact that this meter uses fast sampling and DSP to calculate the RMS value of an AC input, rather than using the traditional approach of an RMS-to-DC converter (e.g. AD637). The peak value of a sine wave is 1.414 the RMS value. So to get an RMS reading on the meter of say 9.999 VAC, the meter needs to sample instantaneous voltages up to 14.141 V. It can't. The ADC tops out at roughly 12000 counts. This means that, for AC, the maximum displayed counts should be limited to around 8000 count. This allows enough headroom in the ADC to sample the peaks of sine waves (and clipped sine waves which you will likely see on AC mains). Still, any waveform with a higher crest factor may show a RMS reading below actual, when the reading is reaching the top of a range. A workaround might have been to manually range higher, but this meter has no range button, so you can't do that. All this was to say that I recommend leaving the maximum counts to 8000 or less.
I have also used what I learned here (big thanks to hugatry) to modify another DTM0660-based meter (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/canadian-tire-mastercraft-dmm-new-and-old-revision-teardown/msg927276/#msg927276) that I own. On that meter I added a mV range with high impedance input.
There appears to be another difference with the dotless mode. Curious if this is normal.I would have totally missed that, if you hadn't mentioned it!
Using a fixed current source of 2.0A. Power up the 210E. place into DCA 2A scale. Zero as normal and attach the clamp. Write down your reading. Remove the clamp and set to dotless mode. Zero and attach the clamp and write down this reading.
Now power cycle the meter and go back to 2ADC range. Don't zero and attach the clamp. Take the reading. Now without disconnecting the clamp, switch to dotless mode and take the reading.
It appears there are different calibrations for dotless and normal. With dotless mode and 1A applied I get about 38mA of error.
There appears to be another difference with the dotless mode. Curious if this is normal.I would have totally missed that, if you hadn't mentioned it!
Using a fixed current source of 2.0A. Power up the 210E. place into DCA 2A scale. Zero as normal and attach the clamp. Write down your reading. Remove the clamp and set to dotless mode. Zero and attach the clamp and write down this reading.
Now power cycle the meter and go back to 2ADC range. Don't zero and attach the clamp. Take the reading. Now without disconnecting the clamp, switch to dotless mode and take the reading.
It appears there are different calibrations for dotless and normal. With dotless mode and 1A applied I get about 38mA of error.
Copy bytes from 50h and 51h (locations of 2A calibration data) to locations 56h and 57h (2000A/ dotless 2A calibration data). That should fix it.
Joe, what's that cool-looking shiny thing in the background (two handles, several buttons)?
Joe, what's that cool-looking shiny thing in the background (two handles, several buttons)?
Visit here often? :-DD
Joe, what's that cool-looking shiny thing in the background (two handles, several buttons)?
Visit here often? :-DD
Still not enough, apparently. :-DD
Thanks, Joe. Beautiful work. Going to check out your other vids too.
Curious how you people are doing it or if it's not been a problem yet?
To match the pulse gen? :-+:-+
Why does the current waveform go non-sinusoidal when it is tapering off?The power here is pretty poor so I never see a nice looking wave looking at the line. However, as the flux decays the wave does have a double hump thing going on. It's always there but just not as pronounced.
Looking good.
That's a deep finish alright. Are you going to give it a metal faceplate too?
Oh man, this range mode seems very appealing. But what about the strange behaviour joeqsmith was writing about? Has it been corrected?Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
That group is really digging into it. So is the decimal gone as they suggested?
With my programmer working again, I tried these changes. Currently I have the meter default to DCA/DCV.
If I turn on the 210E, then select the 2A mode, the decimal is shown. Zero out the meter, the decimal is still shown. Putting more than 2A through the meter will over range it.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Don't zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC, the decimal is shown. Now select DC, the decimal goes away. Don't zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter now starts beeping at about 600mA.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC and then DC. Zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
So it's not a real clean setup IMO. Maybe I missed something.
Oh man, this range mode seems very appealing. But what about the strange behaviour joeqsmith was writing about? Has it been corrected?Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
That group is really digging into it. So is the decimal gone as they suggested?
With my programmer working again, I tried these changes. Currently I have the meter default to DCA/DCV.
If I turn on the 210E, then select the 2A mode, the decimal is shown. Zero out the meter, the decimal is still shown. Putting more than 2A through the meter will over range it.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Don't zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC, the decimal is shown. Now select DC, the decimal goes away. Don't zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter now starts beeping at about 600mA.
Turn the meter back off and on, then again select the 2A mode. Select AC and then DC. Zero out the meter and place more than 2A through the meter. It does not over range and reads the correct value. However the meter still beeps at about 600mA and there is no decimal.
So it's not a real clean setup IMO. Maybe I missed something.
For each of those, limit = value * 10V.
From what I understand it does not behave properly. I mean, for proper use the meter must behave the same way no matter what settings or functions you used before you rotated to DCA/ACA and selected DCA with the Select button.
Read posts 193, 195 and 199. The only problem with dotless mode is in fact that it is dotless! :-DD Well, that and it even needs to be there in the first place.Why is this a problem? It is simply reading in mA instead of A. So what?
Read posts 193, 195 and 199. The only problem with dotless mode is in fact that it is dotless! :-DD Well, that and it even needs to be there in the first place.Why is this a problem? It is simply reading in mA instead of A. So what?
Am I missing something? In what way is the hacked UT210E is misbehaving?
I thought all the issues have been worked out now.
The only issue we really had was with 2A reverting to 2000 count when zeroed out. But now You can simply put Dotless mode in place of default Dot mode, just don't forget to copy the calibration data. If you need the OL alarms just adjust it to your liking.
@joeqsmith, btw how did you disable all of the alarms?
:-DD :-DD If you want a meter that is proper, hacking the 210 is not for you. I would suggest getting a name brand or not hacking it. Personally for the $40 they sell it for and the added value of the hacks, I can live with it's few improper properties.OMG, this crap again :wtf: When some of those "proper" (=overpriced) brands come up with meter which is more accurate, let me know. I regularly check shitloads of brands inluding japanese and who knows what else, each time incl. new brands (for me) I have not even known before. None of them comes even close to this, and the meter is already on market for over 2 years. So you may just as well realize all those Tektronix'es, Flukes and other "proper" brands of yours have serious competition kicking their ass with each new device they come up with. I am just in the process of getting their wattmeters here as there is nothing else in Europe for such price with such functionality on the market.
Calibration data are relevant for that 38mA (IIRC) drift he has been experiencing. How exactly can it affect strange behaviour he has previously described? So, are YOU mad or what?
OMG, this crap again :wtf: When some of those "proper" (=overpriced) brands come up with meter which is more accurate, let me know.
I regularly check shitloads of brands inluding japanese and who knows what else, each time incl. new brands (for me) I have not even known before. None of them comes even close to this, and the meter is already on market for over 2 years. So you may just as well realize all those Tektronix'es, Flukes and other "proper" brands of yours have serious competition kicking their ass with each new device they come up with. I am just in the process of getting their wattmeters here as there is nothing else in Europe for such price with such functionality on the market.
The meter with factory settings works just fine, no matter how exactly you dial DCA and how you start measuring. According to your own post, after this mod it behaves like crazy and totally different each time depending on the procedure you choose to dial the function and start measuring :horse: If this can not be fixed than the mode is as well as useless. I won't use that even for myself, not to mention for my customers :-//
Calibration data are relevant for that 38mA (IIRC) drift he has been experiencing. How exactly can it affect strange behaviour he has previously described? So, are YOU mad or what?
I would also prefer to create correct code the first time (instead of experimenting) as I expect I'll have to remove the chip to write to it. Removing it several times exponentially increases the chance of screwing 40buck meter. :-BROKEI can fully understand that hacking products like this is not for everyone. You just want something you can easily copy without any effort. Again, I suggest you wait.
:-DD :-DD :-DD I can understand your response as I explained the operation of the two modes using the selector. To you it seems crazy, strange and not proper as you put it. It's just too complex for you to follow along and this makes you upset as you want something that is polished. You must realize this is work in progress and it is a hack. Rather than reacting as you have which really adds nothing to the thread, you could just wait a while and see how thing progress.You said yourself
So it's not a real clean setup IMO.so what the heck are you arguing about. I think I asked pretty clear questions, you are sending smokescreens instead of a clear answer. This is what I hate!
In the first video I made, I show the difference between dotless and normal as it stands today with Hugatry's input on the calibration.I won't be reacting to those crap statements of yours, but on the topic, what video exactly? All I found is about degauss of the clamp. If there is something which may clear up the situation, I'll gladly play that, but I see nothing.
To be honest, removing the chip seems a bit stupid. I just use the clip I have shown. Again all documented.I always count with the worst case scenario, try that sometimes, maybe you'll find that better. I have not yet studied the full potential of my programmer, however even if I won't have to remove the chip, having everything ready right away is still better than the other way around.
[..]And what does the doctor say?
And don't start on me with that "adding to thread" crap ever again. I am not a "herd of sheep" type of person who always blats with the herd in common symphony how everything is great when it is actually not. Besides, while you may not be able to perceive that, summing up the progress (or lack of one) is an added value…most of the folk does not enjoy reading hundreds of posts to collect crumbs of information. I did not, but it is good that I've read this through and pushed you so we now know the current status.
[..]
I think I asked pretty clear questions, you are sending smokescreens instead of a clear answer. This is what I hate!
And don't start on me with that "adding to thread" crap ever again. I am not a "herd of sheep" type of person who always blats with the herd in common symphony how everything is great when it is actually not. Besides, while you may not be able to perceive that, summing up the progress (or lack of one) is an added value…most of the folk does not enjoy reading hundreds of posts to collect crumbs of information. I did not, but it is good that I've read this through and pushed you so we now know the current status.
Maybe sou should put some ice on your head to cool down. It is pretty much obvious you have no idea as you are clearly just copying something what somebody else did. That is OK for sure, what is not OK is when instead of being honest and saying so you try to make idiots of people who are asking questions you have no answer to. If you do not understand the question just say so, it is ofc possible they are not clear. But I have the feeling you do and this is just a part of the play.
All just because you have made tons of posts and think of yourself as some miniguru while you have no idea and you are afraid people will find out. Well, you do not even reach the ankles of ppl like Bud (e. g. here (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/project-yaigol-fixing-rigol-scope-design-problems/)), those actually bring some huge stuff to that "community" of yours. Anyway, since I am getting no information here, guess it's time to blow of the dust from my russian and go straight to the source. If I find anything of use, I'll think about sharing here. It is exactly because ppl like you that some others are actually discouraged to share so I might as well decide to keep it. I run into this kind on many forums, and the result is always the same - ppl who would otherwise think about sharing just don't give a damn and left that wonderfull "community" rot in their small pile of dung.
But hey, you might think how great you are when you pushed me into going to search for my own. The drawback is you won't get anything from it :clap:
Maybe sou should put some ice on your head to cool down. It is pretty much obvious you have no idea as you are clearly just copying something what somebody else did. That is OK for sure, what is not OK is when instead of being honest and saying so you try to make idiots of people who are asking questions you have no answer to.
......
But hey, you might think how great you are when you pushed me into going to search for my own. The drawback is you won't get anything from it :clap:
^^ Can you lock individual users out of a thread instead of locking it completely?
I have no issue with anyone here, just a general question.
No, I have to either lock the thread or ban the user.Simon, this is not a troll or shit post thread. It has lots of very good info and uniquely sourced stuff from joeqsmith for the fairly unique super cheap Uni-T UT210E. It would be absurd to lock it because of a troll attack. If this works then you will end up cutting the nose to spite the face. All of us UT210E fans will have to go to Russian boards perhaps instead. Meanwhile this strange creature gets to win his shutting down stuff that offends him because he is a special snowflake.
And I am indeed doing my best to keep the topic open.
Hi guys,
Newbie question. I am new to EEPROM reading.. and I was wondering if someone can double check
the attached BIN file I read off the UT210E before proceeding with the writing of the modified version.
Does this look like a legit UT210E EEPROM binary? :-/O
Also, will I be able to revert to the original bin if I mess up with a wrong bin file?
Thanks.
I think you should change 12H and 13H as well. They are range-up threshold. On the VC921 multimeter I use 12H = 4A and 13H = 1F. This gives range-up at 8010.
I've tried the 8000 count mode by changing 10H --> 40 and 11H --> 1F
by it is still in the 6000 count mode! I've only tested Volts and Resistance.
Do I have to change any other byte as well for the 8000 count mode?
Success!
Just did the mod and the little UT210E got a lot better!
I love the new functionality and the NCV mV mode.
Had to ground WP and Reset in order to write to the EEPROM.
I am using the MiniPro programmer.
I've tried the 8000 count mode by changing 10H --> 40 and 11H --> 1F
by it is still in the 6000 count mode! I've only tested Volts and Resistance.
Do I have to change any other byte as well for the 8000 count mode?
I've also changed 19H to 3C because the alarm was a bit annoying...
I will wait for you feedback before doing anything else.
Thanks!
George.
Guys thank you!
8000 counts now and working fine. It has also survived a 1 meter drop onto concrete... ::)
I don't know if you've noticed but this thing has one of the best continuity functions as well!
With the proper leads off course.
Minor thing is that when you measure for example above 8.100Vdc and then the voltage starts
decreasing, it will revert back to the 2000 count mode until you reach 2.000Vdc. Minor though.
Best 34 euros spent on a multimeter/clamp.
Thanks again!
Guys thank you!
8000 counts now and working fine. It has also survived a 1 meter drop onto concrete... ::)
I don't know if you've noticed but this thing has one of the best continuity functions as well!
With the proper leads off course.
Minor thing is that when you measure for example above 8.100Vdc and then the voltage starts
decreasing, it will revert back to the 2000 count mode until you reach 2.000Vdc. Minor though.
Best 34 euros spent on a multimeter/clamp.
Thanks again!
Yesterday had a little poked around with both devices. Experimentally found that when placing 8200 - "count" output from APC300 behaived as 10 thousand count, measured 7.5V.
With 7700 counts - is a stop on the second iteration, the result is 73V.
But with 7200 counts - it shows the normal 220.
We can assume that the increase in the number of samples from 6200 to 7200 in most cases acceptable. This is how I left it.
From the Russian forum a user posted some tests results that caught my eye. If I understand correctly then anything over 7200 counts shows false reading measuring 220ACV. So if you do set 8000 or 10000 count remember not to use with AC high voltage.If the APC300 is an UPS it makes sense since the output from that is a stepped/modified sinus. The TRMS converter is an DSP believed to handle a maximum of 12000 counts. 8000 counts should be OK for sinus, but a different waveform can exceed 12000 counts and give an erroneus result.
Link (http://kazus.ru/forums/showthread.php?t=112135&page=50#)Quote from: shaman1010Yesterday had a little poked around with both devices. Experimentally found that when placing 8200 - "count" output from APC300 behaived as 10 thousand count, measured 7.5V.
With 7700 counts - is a stop on the second iteration, the result is 73V.
But with 7200 counts - it shows the normal 220.
We can assume that the increase in the number of samples from 6200 to 7200 in most cases acceptable. This is how I left it.
Is there some benefit to have it range down at a different value than range up value? e.g. 1900 vs 2200, 5800 vs 6200
Is there some benefit to have it range down at a different value than range up value? e.g. 1900 vs 2200, 5800 vs 6200
When you are testing from zero going up in range, you still get the full 6000 count but when going down, you only get 2000 count.
example: when reading a changing voltage (charging cap etc) it counts from 1.000 to 2.000 .... 5.000 - 6.000 then 07.00 - 08.00 but when going down, it had to go 08.00 - 07.00 .... 04.00 - 03.00 - 02.00 then 1.000. I hope you get what I mean. ;D
Update with mains voltage.
Again, values on the left were fluctuating because of unstable mains voltage.
The measurements on the right were from a crappy UPS with a modified 'sine'wave.
Virtually spot on with the Brymen.
I don't see a problem with the 8000 counts. :-//
If it does have a problem with higher voltages like 400V and above I wouldn't mind
because I am not using anything close to that.
I only need to fix the down ranging.
Update with mains voltage.
Again, values on the left were fluctuating because of unstable mains voltage.
The measurements on the right were from a crappy UPS with a modified 'sine'wave.
Virtually spot on with the Brymen.
I don't see a problem with the 8000 counts. :-//
If it does have a problem with higher voltages like 400V and above I wouldn't mind
because I am not using anything close to that.
I only need to fix the down ranging.
It may be fine with sine waves, try higher crest factor waveforms.
Re. down ranging - have you tried what I suggested? It worked for me.
400Hz and how many volts?I understand that the error will increase when you are closer to end-of-scale. Try the same waveform and close to 8V and see if you get trouble.
I've tested the previous 22.6VAC waveform up to 2Khz with similar results.
So, did you check the down ranging? Does it stay at 8000 counts when the voltage starts decreasing?
That was the highest I could go with such a high crest factor waveform.If you can get 22.6VAC you should be able to get a lower value of the same waveform too?
22.6V was the peak to peak value of the waveform, not the RMS which was 2.4V.
I can raise the RMS voltage but then the crest factor will decrease which was the
point in the first place.
I might give it another try to see if I can get a crest factor of 3 and RMS of around 8V.
Just tried to do it but I got strange behavior in the mV range from the UT210E and the Brymens.:wtf: I was so close to ordering the BM869s as a successor to my 25 year old Metex M-3650B (3 1/2 digits (or less by today ;)), 2000 counts) ...
The waveform was just a pure sinewave at 60hz.
The reference multimeter that was agreeing with the oscilloscope was the UT136C... :)
Probably because of its mV auto ranging. But have a look at the other multimeters.
(sorry for the bad image quality)
[...]
The UT61E was the most well behaved which is to show that its still one of the best
low budget multimeters for low voltage electronics. That accuracy drift though... :)
The thing to note was that the Brymens displayed false readings without any warning.
* FAIL * for the expensive Brymens... :--
Do the Brymens only behave wrong like that in AC Mode?Yes, only in mVAC mode.
Wow big fail for the brymens, to high input capacitance?? :-//
VB is the bias current input in IC. The increase off R1 reduce the current in IC,
but the shortage of bias current will affect the input range of AC measurement.
QuoteDo the Brymens only behave wrong like that in AC Mode?Yes, only in mVAC mode.
I don't know if a fix is possible.
I tried to contact them for schematics and they did not even reply...
I have been unable to recreate the results you are showing
hgg in this case to you it is possible to use such mode of measurement, as on a photo
There are three presets marked VR4, VR+ and VR-. Does anyone have an idea what they do?I disagree. These guys are hacking the "settings" of this meter, or the artificial limits. The ones pre-programmed to allow the seller to charge much more for a different model using pretty much the same hardware. I think this is a common theme lately.
You guys have been hacking the firmware, so surely three little presets are not such a mystery? :)
Sent back... :-[Was shipping back more than the cost of the meter if you sent requesting Canada Post tracking/signature?
I left a small wire still connected.?? connect to what ?
What good does 6200 count hack do if the UT210E is ±?2%+3) DC Current (A).
The hack does increase accuracy from ±?2%+3) DC Current (A). ???NO ! Watch the Video again.
What good does 6200 count hack do if the UT210E is ±?2%+3) DC Current (A).Accuracy is very different from Resolution.
According to this:
https://www.electronics-related.com/showthread/sci.electronics.basics/62666-1.php (https://www.electronics-related.com/showthread/sci.electronics.basics/62666-1.php)
There are 2000, 3200, 4000, 6000 etc count meters on the market that all
use 4 digits.
The really important difference is in the accuracy built into each model
- there is really no point in having more than 2000 counts shown if the
basic accuracy is only 1%.
Generally, 2000 count meters have 0.5 % DC accuracy, 3200 count meters
0.3%, 4000 count 0.25% and 6000 count 0.15%.
I believe this is a K-12 High School video on the subject
Send it back to Amazon.ca and was fully refunded, no shipping costs, That's was good at least.Sent back... :-[Was shipping back more than the cost of the meter if you sent requesting Canada Post tracking/signature?
*SUCCESS* :-DMM Man, I like this UT210E so much more now with these mods. It defaults to DC(v)(a), 6000 count, 3min backlight, 30min Power-off, full 6000 count 2A Dotless mode and NCV extra readings, WoW :-+
...
...Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
44 98 8A 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 EF 01 09 01 FE 0A ED 15 0A F2 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
82 89 B6 83 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 5B 7F 01 00 A9 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
55 80 00 80 5C 80 E0 7C FA 05 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 F8 01 65 03 B8 04
FA 01 69 03 C5 04 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00
...Flashing EEPROM...
...After EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 38 18 BE 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 40 FF
44 98 8A 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 EF 01 09 01 FE 0A ED 15 0A F2 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
82 89 B6 83 00 80 82 89 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 5B 7F 01 00 A9 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
55 80 00 80 5C 80 E0 7C FA 05 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 1E 1A 03 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 02 1B 04 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1C 00 00 00 00 1D 00 05 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1D 00 00 00 00 00 00 06 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 F8 01 65 03 B8 04
FA 01 69 03 C5 04 00 80 5A C7 EF 1E B4 80 00 00
I believe this is a K-12 High School video on the subject (I'm from the UK and far to old to remember if K-12 would be 4th or 5th year secondary comp. science lessons)
It's the nature of the DC clamp.. 200mA does seem a bit high. I've posted about how to trim the pots and degauss them if things get really bad to where you can't zero them. Assuming the meter reads correctly as you sweep the current, I would just leave it.
Hello,
I recently bought a UT210E - when I want to measure Amps DC I always have 200mA on the meter (without a wire in it).
Everytime I have to push the zero button - and after that I can measure correct DC amps.
Is there a trick to zero amps DC permanent?
Thank you very much in advance!
With kind regards,
Michael
It's the nature of the DC clamp.. 200mA does seem a bit high. I've posted about how to trim the pots and degauss them if things get really bad to where you can't zero them. Assuming the meter reads correctly as you sweep the current, I would just leave it.
Does it work fine with NiMh rechargeable batteries?Mine drifted a bit on DC current ranges with them.
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 B0 04 E8 03 FA 00 00 BB 03
70 17 98 08 C3 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF 16 14 FF 40 FF
26 98 19 81 AD 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 F3 01 09 1D 02 0B AE 15 0A EB 00 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
C2 92 E3 77 78 7D AB 7D 00 00 00 00 F7 FF 00 00
E4 7F 2E 7F 01 00 AD 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
A1 7F 00 80 23 7F E0 7C 79 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 18 00 00 00 19 13 1E 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 00 1F 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 05 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 90 01 BC 02 E8 03
90 01 BC 02 E8 03 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00miksu,the DTM0660 chip also has the firmware which differs for each specific model of the instrument. ;)Yea I was kind of hoping they would use the same layout and firmware, or at least leave some extra functionality in there but so far there is nothing. Now I wonder what would happen if you'd transplant a fully featured chip or firmware from another multimeter :D
miksu,the DTM0660 chip also has the firmware which differs for each specific model of the instrument. ;)Yea I was kind of hoping they would use the same layout and firmware, or at least leave some extra functionality in there but so far there is nothing. Now I wonder what would happen if you'd transplant a fully featured chip or firmware from another multimeter :D
I don't need better than 2000 count resolution and the accuracy..........U need it so do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beXnFpPPwg4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beXnFpPPwg4)
I don't need better than 2000 count resolution and the accuracy..........U need it so do it.
Check out Joe's channel, than you understand why you have to hack it. :o)
Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
I did some earth leakage tests with mine. Seemed stable enough to see what was going on. I made a short extension cord with the earth wire long enough to pass through the clamp centre 10 times for X10 sensitivity.
Hey guys, in case it hasn't been covered, does this clamp (not modded) give true RMS readings in the AC milliamp range,
or only applicable to the volts input?
How well does it work from 0 to 100 ma AC? solid readings or 'all over the shop' ? :o
I want to pull the trigger on a cheap small clamp to hunt down electrical earth/ground leakage issues that trip RCD/GFCIs etc.
My other leakage clamp works great but it's a monster to lug around and use when travelling light on small jobs.
I suppose asking if UT210E does min/max is pushing the expectations for such a low price? :-//
and hey, it's a Uni-T, so I gotta ask if it's a goodie, or borderline sledge worthy ;D
yeah, I got that in my bag of tricks too ;)
My other clamp leaker reads any AC waveform straight up from 0.300 ma to 30 amps rock solid
But I'd be cool with anything small that does 5 ma to 100 ma AC, without digit walkabout...
Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
Hi , I finally picked a 210E , having read this thread a while back and thanks to FlyWheelz's pic of the Hookup and his .ino file , I now have a Modded 210E . :-+
However I noticed the post above has different hex codes for A7 and B7 than the .ino so I am wonder if the INO was ever updated so it's correct or I need to make these changes too ? though looking at the INO or the post on page 8 these addresses seem to be for the ALARMS , not for adding modes to 2A mode ?
Earlier in the thread on Page 4 I also notice some of Macboys' changes are different than Flywheelz too...or was that just personal preference?
Did I perhaps miss something on the thread ? or was there a finalized list of recommended Changes perhaps?
Thanks for any help....
KB
Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods? It gives two new functions in 2A mode. Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000). The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.
Update: Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out.Code: [Select]old new
A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4
Hi , I finally picked a 210E , having read this thread a while back and thanks to FlyWheelz's pic of the Hookup and his .ino file , I now have a Modded 210E . :-+
However I noticed the post above has different hex codes for A7 and B7 than the .ino so I am wonder if the INO was ever updated so it's correct or I need to make these changes too ? though looking at the INO or the post on page 8 these addresses seem to be for the ALARMS , not for adding modes to 2A mode ?
Earlier in the thread on Page 4 I also notice some of Macboys' changes are different than Flywheelz too...or was that just personal preference?
Did I perhaps miss something on the thread ? or was there a finalized list of recommended Changes perhaps?
Thanks for any help....
KB
The post above one you quoted, the one with .ino, is more recent. I made the 2A dotless modes be in SELECT slot 1 and 2 and the original modes shifted to slot 3 and 4. The other differences could be with alarms snd timeouts, these are personal preferences.
Did you ever try using Pin 8 for WP like Kerry Wong did in his sketch ? it worked fine when I modded my Uni-T 139C,
after my initial wiring error admittedly as I had WP to GND at 1st and was getting the beeping.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035)
Did you ever try using Pin 8 for WP like Kerry Wong did in his sketch ? it worked fine when I modded my Uni-T 139C,
after my initial wiring error admittedly as I had WP to GND at 1st and was getting the beeping.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035)
Yes, I tried Pin 8 to ground but that alone was not enough for my UT210E to be able to Write eeprom (maybe read too, can't remember :-//). After few rewirings, I realized the MCU was waking up and screwing things up, so grounding its reset pin 55 did the trick :-+ On 139C there is a nice Reset pad.
I read this nice thread because I bought a Uni-T UT210E. Some of you had access to read/write the eeprom with the minipro TL866A programmer. How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?
First I used this clamp. No data received. Then I tried to connect the 5 wires from the EEPROM in the programmer. I put WP also on ground, no difference.
Is ICSP/ISP for microcontroller only?
How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?
How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?
Switch the UT-210E on. OFF position does not work.
Yep, the problem was the wrong lower limit range (190x), changing to 580x works very well.
Tomorrow I will do some tests and compare the values with the HP3478A.
... What did you change exactly? I'd like to check mine , thanks.kbird, I changed the values in registers 0x14 and 015, related to the lower limit range.
//Count 6200 - Lower limit
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x14, (byte) 0x44);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x15, (byte) 0x02);
Now I wonder if all the up / down ranges are correct?Yes, now it's working very well
... What did you change exactly? I'd like to check mine , thanks.kbird, I changed the values in registers 0x14 and 015, related to the lower limit range.
The original value (BEh) force to lower the range when the reading is bellow 190x (190mV, 1.900V, 1900Ohm, etc). Changing to 580x (244h) will correct it (580mV, 5.800, 5800Ohm, etc).
Changing in the Arduino SketchCode: [Select]//Count 6200 - Lower limit
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x14, (byte) 0x44);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x15, (byte) 0x02);Now I wonder if all the up / down ranges are correct?Yes, now it's working very well
First of all, thanks to everyone for all the information and inspiration shared so far! :-+
Following information is about modifying features of you meter. Take backup of eeprom's content if you are going to modify it's content. You are doing possible modifications at your own risk!
There has been some talk about reordering the modes, for example to make DCA come before ACA. Unless I've missed a post or few, there hasn't been English information about what those bytes actually mean and how to possibly make other similar changes.
Knowing what bytes need to be swapped to swap places of DC and AC modes is nice, but wouldn't it be great to have information how to reorder the modes the way YOU want (within some limitations)?
For quick reference, check out first attachment image to see where modes of each selector switch are being set and second attachment to see what the bytes on those locations mean. Second attachment also mentions some jumpers... You can switch places of modes only if they have same set of jumpers mentioned.
The longer explanation:
Chinese datasheet of DTM0660L (Here's a link (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6fbSrbAyU1lUlhBQXY3bS1RLU0/view) to that datasheet in PDF format. Link was shared by user Puomjw on the thread of Russian forum that has been discussed earlier.) explains the EEPROM content at 0x80 - 0xBF, which is where order of the modes is set. Least significant nibble of address on that area represents the selector switch position and most significant nibble represents the mode selectable by Select-button.
For example bytes in locations 0x8F, 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF set all four modes of one specific selector switch position. 0x8F contains default mode, pressing the Select-button cycles between that and the modes set in 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF. See the first attached image for clarification.
UT210E's eeprom has 0x07, 0x09, 0x0A and 0x0B in those four locations that were mentioned as an example. The datasheet has a chart (Section 11.3 in the datasheet I linked in this post, also in second attachment of this post) which tells what modes each of the bytes represents.
Comparing those bytes from eeprom to the chart on datasheet: 0x07 = Resistance, 0x09 = Continuity, 0x0A = Diode and 0x0B = Capacitance. Looking at the UT210E, there surely is a selector switch position which has resistance, continuity, diode and capacitance modes. So, now we know which four byte section sets modes of that selector switch position. Doing similar comparisons to rest of the four byte sections on that 0x80-0xBF area of UT210E's eeprom results this:Rest of the four byte sections include only 0x00 and aren't used (not selectable with selector switch).
Locations Selector switch position 0x87, 0x97, 0xA7 and 0xB7 2A 0x8B, 0x9B, 0xAB and 0xBB 20A 0x8C, 0x9C, 0xAC and 0xBC NCV 0x8D, 0x9D, 0xAD and 0xBD 100A 0x8E, 0x9E, 0xAE and 0xBE Volts 0x8F, 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF Resistance/Continuity/Diode/Capacitance
Limitations
There are some things that limit the possible modifications you can do to order of the modes: In second attachment there is column with jumper names: J1A, J5 etc. Selector switch also shorts or opens these jumpers, modifying the way input signal travels inside the meter.
You can only replace a mode with another one, if that new mode has exact same set of jumpers mentioned, as the old one. For an example: Looking at second attachment, you can move continuity before resistance, but you cannot replace NCV with continuity.
There aren't too many things one can do, but I hope this helps!
A am sorry its about RM101/ZT101/AN8001 that video: youtube.com/watch?v=xx_CbRkbI04
Another option is to combine mA and uA in the eeprom and put the switch in the other banana terminal.
>:(
GRRRRRHHHHHHH. Who said aaa batteries are better than 9V, I just grabbed my ut610e to check my car battery charging and nothing, it would not power on. Took battery cover off and what do I find?
Battery leaked. :palm:
Had to clean it up (vinger, water and isopril alcohol) and wait for it to dry out.
Thankfully, it is still working.
Have not had that from 9V batteries (yet). Much prefer 9V batteries in dmms.
my ut210e is now 10,000 count too!! >:D
According to the manual, the UT210E has frequency units on the LCD display, but nowhere does it show that it will measure frequency. What are the Hz units for on the display? And if it does perform Hz measurements, how is it activated? Thanks
some meters with that chipset can show the frequency and duty-cycle of an AC signal.
also they have a frequency counter mode.
i have no idea how to activate the first one, the aneng 8002 has it, but i cant see anything in the eeprom.
the second mode may need extra components and usually has it's own switch position. - i'v not looked
i dont think you will get 200A
infact with the 10,000 count mod it should be 1000A, but i think the 100A is hardcoded in software.
question:
why does it matter? the clamp is a bit small for putting over 200A+ cables anyway!!
hardcoded in software.:D
hardcoded in software.:D
so what exactly do we change for 99.99A mode?
;D
@ceut
did you check in both AC and DC modes?
i just noticed the value you changed also exists in the next 2 bytes (09,0A)
:-\
Did anyone get the TX pin activated?
I edited the EEPROM on my AN8002 but the pin was not bonded under the blob. I don't own a UT210E but with logging capability I would buy it.Did anyone get the TX pin activated?
I have tried to activate the °C and the Hz+% without success: I think some hardware components are missing.
For the TX pin, on the DTM0660, it's the pin n°20 which seems not to be used on the board (not far from the 3.999 quartz, near the 01A resistor).
There are also some options bits to check in EEPROM (adresses #FAh, #FDh).
Good luck :)
Hi, just registered and now write my first contribution.
Yes, I have a UT210D since today! I received it drectly from China, payed 32$ = 27,78€. I'm gonna use it on motorcycle electrics, so the 2A range ist not necessary, but having 200A is nice to measure starter currents.
After a thorough check of the instrument in the next days, I promise to post some photos (inside!) here.
best rudi
Hi, just registered and now write my first contribution.
Yes, I have a UT210D since today! I received it drectly from China, payed 32$ = 27,78€. I'm gonna use it on motorcycle electrics, so the 2A range ist not necessary, but having 200A is nice to measure starter currents.
After a thorough check of the instrument in the next days, I promise to post some photos (inside!) here.
best rudi
Great news!
We can finally compare the inside of both ^-^
Could you extract and post your 24c02 content too? I think the D model is also unlockable 8)
some doubts"Dotless" mode is the 2 A range without decimal point, so it is showing units of mA directly instead of A (e.g. 2000 instead of 2.000). The reason for using dotless is that the normal mode has a significant issue: If you use Zero then the full scale count is limited to 2000 regardless of other EEPROM settings.
...
i really dont understand wat is the dotless mode mentioned in the previous pages kindly help me out.
Ahh the millivolts also works with 10k counts ? and does it have a very high input impedence for both dc and ac ? can some one measure and let me know ? thanks.
can it be set like in V First it starts with DCV and DCmV and ACV and ACmV ? just curious :D thanks ;D
...
Thanks! :box:
When making the 400A measurement, did you notice a large residual offset afterwards (requiring de-gaussing)?
Given the increasing error I think i'll keep mine at 100A for now, but do some of the other mods.
I got my meter in March from here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MD14GTM/ (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MD14GTM/) and it came with the 1106 chipset
some doubts"Dotless" mode is the 2 A range without decimal point, so it is showing units of mA directly instead of A (e.g. 2000 instead of 2.000). The reason for using dotless is that the normal mode has a significant issue: If you use Zero then the full scale count is limited to 2000 regardless of other EEPROM settings.
...
i really dont understand wat is the dotless mode mentioned in the previous pages kindly help me out.
Ahh the millivolts also works with 10k counts ? and does it have a very high input impedence for both dc and ac ? can some one measure and let me know ? thanks.
can it be set like in V First it starts with DCV and DCmV and ACV and ACmV ? just curious :D thanks ;D
...
Thanks! :box:
For mV, there are two different type of measurement mode.
One type of mV mode has 10 MOhm input impedance, measures ###.# mV full scale, and works with the dial in a Voltage setting. So this can be combined with DCV and/or ACV.
The other type of mV has high input impedance and works only with the switch in specific positions. In this meter that is only the Resistance/Capacitance position. This mode has two ranges: ##.## mV or ###.# mV full scale.
This mV ranges are explained (in a very obfuscated and confusing way) in the chipset documentation found earlier in the thread.
Don't know if I'll have time to verify this post (http://"https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1313616/#msg1313616") today regarding the resistors for the op amp, because in order to do so, I would like to verify the sensors used for the meter.
Everyone is assuming that Hall Effect sensor(s) are in play, but my initial findings so that AMR/magnetoresistive sensors are actually employed. There are 2, 4-pin, ~1.3 mm x 2.1 mm x 0.55 mm SMDs under the nubs in the fixed jaw with the package marking of 'D'. The leads are on the long sides. Using a ziplock, boiling water, and some ice-cold cold packs, I opened up the jaw to see what was what since Joe Smith doesn't want to share his high bandwidth hack.
I have 2 UT210E's, one being donated to this hacking, both with the DTM0660 controllers. The EEPROMs are stock atm and so are the meters, but hacking in SMA connectors on each and upping their bandwidth is the intent.
I digress though, as AMR/magnetoresistive sensors are Wheatstone-based sensors. Digikey shows 2 parts that are physically close match with similar "resting" resistances of ~260 ohms, the HW105A and the HW108A, with the 105 being the one that matches physical and electrical checks. I'm looking for similar/equivalent parts that are still in production to see if I can get more details specs such as identifying if they have particular qualities that would limit bandwidth. If not, then it is solely up to the OPA4330 and the circuit design that is the bandwidth limitation, yes?
Pictures will arrive when I have time to take them and have looked into the op amp channels and associated gain on all 4. Oh, one more myth to dispel, the ground/guard lead that goes into the fixed jaw, solder point 'A1' is for NCV. It is not a guard.
Thanks but still it just is kinda normal right ? we get like 1.999 amps when it was 2k counts when its 10 counts still we get 1.999 Amps right or can we even get like 5A (4.567A) in the 2A Range ? so its like a 10A Range ?
Don't know if I'll have time to verify this post (http://"https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1313616/#msg1313616") today regarding the resistors for the op amp, because in order to do so, I would like to verify the sensors used for the meter.I have access to some of the AKM semiconductor sensors and can confirm that the letter code on top marks the "Rank" (i.e. sensitivity) of the part. They are hall effect based but without any further conditioning/power supply/amplification circuitry, so offer a lot of flexibility in how they are driven, but also a lot of pitfalls to go with that flexibility (have a look at the temperature dependence!).
Everyone is assuming that Hall Effect sensor(s) are in play, but my initial findings so that AMR/magnetoresistive sensors are actually employed. There are 2, 4-pin, ~1.3 mm x 2.1 mm x 0.55 mm SMDs under the nubs in the fixed jaw with the package marking of 'D'. The leads are on the long sides. Using a ziplock, boiling water, and some ice-cold cold packs, I opened up the jaw to see what was what since Joe Smith doesn't want to share his high bandwidth hack.
I have 2 UT210E's, one being donated to this hacking, both with the DTM0660 controllers. The EEPROMs are stock atm and so are the meters, but hacking in SMA connectors on each and upping their bandwidth is the intent.
I digress though, as AMR/magnetoresistive sensors are Wheatstone-based sensors. Digikey shows 2 parts that are physically close match with similar "resting" resistances of ~260 ohms, the HW105A and the HW108A, with the 105 being the one that matches physical and electrical checks. I'm looking for similar/equivalent parts that are still in production to see if I can get more details specs such as identifying if they have particular qualities that would limit bandwidth. If not, then it is solely up to the OPA4330 and the circuit design that is the bandwidth limitation, yes?
Pictures will arrive when I have time to take them and have looked into the op amp channels and associated gain on all 4. Oh, one more myth to dispel, the ground/guard lead that goes into the fixed jaw, solder point 'A1' is for NCV. It is not a guard.
To be perfectly pedantic, dotless mode can go to 5999 milliamp (with 6000 counts setting). Of course this equals 5.999 A but the reading is 5999 not 5.999 after all. ::)Thanks but still it just is kinda normal right ? we get like 1.999 amps when it was 2k counts when its 10 counts still we get 1.999 Amps right or can we even get like 5A (4.567A) in the 2A Range ? so its like a 10A Range ?
2A range in dotless-mode will go to 9.999Amps
or with the older chip - 5.999Amps
so what is the most i can read in the 20a range ? and with how much decimal places (10k counts)
and is it possible to set the dc counts more like 15k or 20k( :scared:) and get accuracate reading ?
yes, that's why although it's 10,000 count, i often call it 9,999 count.
not enough digits to show the last 1.
Cheers, a quickie - I'm in need for an advice for last minute Christmas shopping.
This one vs UT204A http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1986_1109_1109.html (http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1986_1109_1109.html)
204A is hall sensor, is this using hall effect sensor too?
Which is better?
Can anyone video the normal ncv function and switching to ncv MV function and testing stuff on walls and near wires please becoz I need to convince my father in to buying it :DThere's something, on them interwebs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loj97SsnwBM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loj97SsnwBM)
9C: 00 02
AC: 00 1D
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 00 00 00 00 FA 00 00 BE 03
50 96 38 18 44 02 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 3E 05 9E FF
7B 99 DD 81 1E 00 1E 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 16 01 09 DC FF 0A B5 16 0A 85 03 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
0A 7C E2 70 71 76 00 80 00 00 00 00 EF FF 00 00
32 80 E0 80 01 00 90 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
50 7F 00 80 28 82 E0 7C EA 04 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 80 00 00 00 00 19 00 00 00 1B 07 04 1E 17
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 18 00 00 00 1A 09 1F 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 05 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
A7 E8 0B FF 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
CC 7E 00 80 00 80 00 80 5A C7 ED 0F 0F AF 00 00
UT21x Dumper and config Tool partly written by RDOB
Function Description:
[1]: Select local EEPROM Backup Bank (1 | 2)
[2]: Dump Local EEPROM Content [3]: Backup Meters EEPROM to local Bank
[4]: Restore Local EEPROM Bank to Meter
[5]: Show Diff between Meter and local backup
[a]: Enter Meters EEprom address to read/write; [r]: Read Byte from Meter
[b]: Enter Byte Data (to write to Meter); [w]: Write Byte to Meters EEPROM
[d]: Dump Meters EEprom to screen [?]: Print this Help!
[s]: Scan I2C Bus for available Devices
Scanning...
I2C device found at address 0x50 !
done
Enter 1 or 2 for local Backup EEPROM Bank: 1
Selected local EEPROM Bank: 1
Data @ Address 0xFC Local: 0x0F Meter: 0x4C
1 Bytes Different between local and meters EEPROM!
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 00 00 00 00 FA 00 00 BE 03
50 96 38 18 44 02 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 3E 05 9E FF
7B 99 DD 81 1E 00 1E 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 16 01 09 DC FF 0A B5 16 0A 85 03 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
0A 7C E2 70 71 76 00 80 00 00 00 00 EF FF 00 00
32 80 E0 80 01 00 90 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
50 7F 00 80 28 82 E0 7C EA 04 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 80 00 00 00 00 19 00 00 00 1B 07 04 1E 17
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 18 00 00 00 1A 09 1F 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 05 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
A7 E8 0B FF 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
CC 7E 00 80 00 80 00 80 5A C7 ED 0F 0F AF 00 00
Enter Data Read/Write Address (HEX): fc
New EEPROM Read/Write Address: 0xFC
Enter Data Byte (HEX): 4b
New EEPROM Data: 0x4B
Enter "1234" to confirm writing:
No Data Entered
Enter Data Byte (HEX): 4d
New EEPROM Data: 0x4D
Enter "1234" to confirm writing: 1234
Data Written!
Data @ Address 0xFC Local: 0x0F Meter: 0x4D
1 Bytes Different between local and meters EEPROM!
Hi,the UT210E does not do min/max. Other models might.
Uni-T says in its tech specs (http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1999_1111_1111.html) it does min/max value but I only see "hold" on the pictures.
Can you actually display the max current?
(Say you want to know how much your starter motor draws when you crank your engine)
On one hand, I think there are way too many multimeter references, and on the other I can't find what I'd like (cheap, decent DC clamp and min/max).
Not bad. I was hoping to spend 25-30€, though.On one hand, I think there are way too many multimeter references, and on the other I can't find what I'd like (cheap, decent DC clamp and min/max).UNI-T UT-213 C
none of what you posted matches my experiences of unitrend products.
the DC current measurement is quite sensitive to outside influences from metal objects and magnetic fields. This is due to the very wide gaps between the cores (plastic between the cores plus additional gaps from a crappy fit), leading to a very leaky magnetic circuit. My proper current clamp adapters have milled recesses at the contact points to mount the hall sensors so the cores can fit together without any gap.The next hack for someone here to try should be making the open ends of the jaws fit together more closely and see if that improves the situation. On the 2A DC amps range it is a bit of a pain having the reading wander around all over the place if the clamp orientation is changed.
UNI-T UT210E Modifications
--------------------------
ADDR : OLD | NEW
================
10000 Count (DM1106 chip ONLY, check it!)
---------
10: 70 10
11: 17 27
12: 98 D8
13: 08 27
14: BE D4
15: 00 03
2A Dotless Calibration (Copy values from 50 to 56, 51 to 57)
---------
56: 00 ??
57: 80 ??
2A Modes (1. Dotless DCA, 2. Dotless ACA, 3. Dot DCA, 4. Dot ACA)
---------
87: 17 1C
97: 16 1D
A7: 00 16
B7: 00 17
20A Modes (1. Dot DCA, 2. Dot ACA)
---------
8B: 19 18
9B: 18 19
100A Modes (1. Dot DCA, 2. Dot ACA)
---------
8D: 1B 1A
9D: 1A 1B
Expand 100A To 1000A (DM1106 chip)
---------
07: E8 10
08: 03 27
Extra Modes (1. Continuity, 2. Ohms, 3. Diode, 4. Capacitance)
---------
8F: 07 09
9F: 09 07
AF: 0A 0A
BF: 0B 0B
V Modes (1. DCV, 2. ACV, 3. DCmV, 4. ACmV)
---------
8E: 04 03
9E: 05 04
AE: 00 05
BE: 00 06
NCV, NCV mV
---------
9C: 00 02
AC: 00 1D
Power Off 1 Hour
---------
FB: 0F 3C
Endless Backlight
---------
FC: 0F 00
Low Battery Warning 15Sec
---------
FD: 80 8F
the software for the deviceWhich is...?
the software for the deviceWhich is...?
Thanks.Oh sorry, its called exactly the same as it says in the screenshots, "CH341A Programmer". You can find it here:the software for the deviceWhich is...?
https://tosiek.pl/ch341-eeprom-and-spi-flash-programmer/
This is not a case of the ExTech and the UNI-T sort of looking similar - the molding of the body, the display, the clamp - its all IDENTICAL.99%
(https://i.imgur.com/nTOtbr6.jpg)
The specs seem slightly different - note the Hz function on the Volts place on the dial for the ExTech. And the Amps ranges are different. What is the chance that the main board and processor is the same, and all the capabilities are being varied by software?
99%
Envoyé de mon HUAWEI NXT-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk
You got your answer. You asked what is the probability bla bla bla, I said 99.what's unclear? Rebranding sounds familiar to you? Same shape, same LCD, same switch. No need to be aggressive if you don't know, put questions on the table without even putting together q and a.It is not the same. Look more carefully. The Extech has a 600 mA range for AC only (0.1 mA resolution) plus AC/DC 6 A and 60 A ranges. The Uni-T has AC/DC 2 A (6 A with mods), 20 A (60 A with mods) and 100 A ranges.
Envoyé de mon HUAWEI NXT-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk
I can't justify spending the $200 to find out, but I'm curious.If only Amazon allowed you to send a unit back within 30 days to get a refund...
If only Amazon allowed you to send a unit back within 30 days to get a refund...Ha! I can't bring myself to do that.. :(
.... Or maybe i'm using it wrong? ...Correct :-) You HAVE to separate the Pos and Neg (return) wires, and only clamp ONE of them !! Either one (usually).
After reading this great thread, i decided to buy a UT210E. However, my UT210E doesn't work properly. I'm not able to measure DC current from my cellphone charger. According to the USB tester, i should have around 1.1 A, but the UT210E only read 0.005 A. Do you I got a lemon? :palm: Or maybe i'm using it wrong? :-//
Here is how i clamped the meter on the wire:
- Leave the clamp meter next to the wire
- Select DC current
- Hit zero
- Clamp the wire
It is not the same. Look more carefully. The Extech has a 600 mA range for AC only (0.1 mA resolution) plus AC/DC 6 A and 60 A ranges. The Uni-T has AC/DC 2 A (6 A with mods), 20 A (60 A with mods) and 100 A ranges.
YesThanks. Maybe one day I'll learn to use topic search before asking. It seems that it's only doable through firmware update which seems complicated, though. I would have preferred a simple one-wire solder job.
There is talk of using Arduino for modding the multimeter. Do I understand correctly that you can only read the current configuration with Arduino, but still need a dedicated piece of hardware to flash it back after editing?
NO the Arduino does both... Uno or Leonardo work , I have done my 210E and 139C ,( same Chip) both threads contain the how too with pics....Thank you very much. My bad, I didn't notice the commented "writeByte()" lines in the Kerry Wong's sketch.
Page 8 I think is flywheelz mods....
and
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/)
You apparently skip read :)Not really, I've read that post and even skimmed through the video which demonstrates a different multimeter so not applicable here. But I have missed the tiny pic thumbnail in the end of the post which shows our UT210E. Yes indeed, that's it, thank you!
After reading this great thread, i decided to buy a UT210E. However, my UT210E doesn't work properly. I'm not able to measure DC current from my cellphone charger. According to the USB tester, i should have around 1.1 A, but the UT210E only read 0.005 A. Do you I got a lemon? :palm: Or maybe i'm using it wrong? :-//
Here is how i clamped the meter on the wire:
- Leave the clamp meter next to the wire
- Select DC current
- Hit zero
- Clamp the wire
However here are my notes I made from this thread and others, during the mod and some pics....
#include <Wire.h>
constexpr int I2C_ADDR = 0x50;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
Wire.begin();
Serial.println(F("Dumping EEPROM..."));
dumpEEPROM();
Serial.println(F("Dumping complete."));
//writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xFC, (byte) 0x1E); //Backlight time 30s
}
void loop() {}
void dumpEEPROM()
{
for (int i = 0; i < 256; i++) {
byte b = readByte(I2C_ADDR, i);
Serial.print(b, HEX); Serial.print(F(" "));
if ((i + 1) % 16 == 0) Serial.println();
}
Serial.println();
}
void writeByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr, byte data) {
Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
Wire.write(addr);
Wire.write(data);
Wire.endTransmission();
}
byte readByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr) {
Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
Wire.write(addr);
Wire.endTransmission();
Wire.requestFrom(i2cAddr, 1);
while (!Wire.available());
return Wire.read();
}writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x00, 0xFF);
...
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD7, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD8, 0x41);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD9, 0x00);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDA, 0x03);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDB, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDC, 0x0D);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDD, 0x00);
...You can copy and paste it into MODeeprom() to restore the original data. Seems convenient to me. I'll share the final sketch after I'm done in case someone else follows my footprints.
FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0
Okay guys, I managed to get my EEPROM dumped...Code: [Select]FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0
I'd like the usual mods (8000counts, longer backlight, DC v first, etc.) but not sure how & what to modify from the dump and how to write it back.
Okay guys, I managed to get my EEPROM dumped...Code: [Select]FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0
I'd like the usual mods (8000counts, longer backlight, DC v first, etc.) but not sure how & what to modify from the dump and how to write it back.
I'd double check that is a full dump , it maybe how AudioNoobs .ino prints? did you use his .ino Sketch? , as the dump should be 16x16 double digit characters....it almost looks like mine did when I had trouble with the Pin55 >wire>CAP not connected well or connected to GND instead.
Mine :
..Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
3B 98 8A 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 D6 01 09 94 00 0B 43 16 0A EC FF 09 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
A0 74 EB 6F 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
C2 7F 48 7E 01 00 A5 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
FA 80 00 80 54 81 E0 7C 05 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 51 02 F1 03 6C 05
50 02 FC 03 8B 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00
some other PICs attached too I saved from the Thread....
don't forget you need to copy YOUR location 50/51 to 56/57 to , should be mentioned in the .ino file.
Unfortunately I am no real expert on this , the count 6000/8000 depends on the Chip you have , mine is only good for 6000 for example.
KB.
Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.
I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.
The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e :)
#include <Wire.h>
const int I2C_ADDR = 0x50;
void MODeeprom() {
Serial.print("\n...Flashing EEPROM...\n");
//Dotless mode calibration data, copied from 0x50, 0x51
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x56, (byte) 0xA0);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x57, (byte) 0x74);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xFB, (byte) 0x1E); //Power off after 30min
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xFC, (byte) 0xB4); //Backlight time 3min
//Count 6200
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x12, (byte) 0x38);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x13, (byte) 0x18);
//Alarms disabled
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x16, (byte) 0xFF);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x17, (byte) 0xFF);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x18, (byte) 0xFF);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x19, (byte) 0xFF);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x1C, (byte) 0xFF);
//With selector in 2A order:
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x87, (byte) 0x1C); //Dotless DCA
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x97, (byte) 0x1D); //Dotless ACA
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xA7, (byte) 0x16); //Dot DCA
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xB7, (byte) 0x17); //Dot ACA
//With selector in 20A order:
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8B, (byte) 0x18); //Dot DCA
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9B, (byte) 0x19); //Dot ACA
//With selector in NCV Display in mV
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9C, (byte) 0x02);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xAC, (byte) 0x1D);
//With selector in 100A order is: (DC)A - (AC)A
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8D, (byte) 0x1A);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9D, (byte) 0x1B);
//With selector in V range order is: V(DC) - V(AC) - V(DC mV) - V(AC mV)
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8E, (byte) 0x03);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9E, (byte) 0x04);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xAE, (byte) 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xBE, (byte) 0x06);
}
void printHex(int num, int precision) {
char tmp[16];
char format[128];
sprintf(format, "%%.%dX", precision);
sprintf(tmp, format, num);
Serial.print(tmp);
}
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
Wire.begin();
Serial.print("\n...Before EEPROM Dump...\n");
dumpEEPROM();
delay(10);
MODeeprom();
delay(10);
Serial.print("\n...After EEPROM Dump...\n");
dumpEEPROM();
}
void loop() {}
void dumpEEPROM()
{
for (int i = 0; i < 256; i++) {
byte b = readByte(I2C_ADDR, i);
//Serial.print(b, HEX); Serial.print(" ");
printHex(b, 2); Serial.print(" ");
if ((i + 1) % 16 == 0) Serial.println();
}
Serial.println();
}
void writeByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr, byte data) {
Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
Wire.write(addr);
Wire.write(data);
Wire.endTransmission();
delay(5);
}
byte readByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr) {
byte data = 0x00;
Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
Wire.write(addr);
Wire.endTransmission();
Wire.requestFrom(i2cAddr, 1);
while (!Wire.available()) ;
data = Wire.read();
return data;
}Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.
I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.
The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e :)
Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere. I used this code to successfully flash the mods...
Hi Jay , that is My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969)
I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.
Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location in My Meter.
KB.
Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.
I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.
The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e :)
Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere. I used this code to successfully flash the mods...
Hi Jay , that is My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969)
I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.
Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location in My Meter.
KB.
Yes, I realized what I did wrong late last night. I totally flashed it with your calibration data. I tested just about everything and the only thing that wasn't very accurate was (go figure) dotless mode. I will do a little more research on going beyond 6200 counts with the 1106 chip and when I'm ready for that, I'll fix my calibration data. Can I see your before and after eeprom?
Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere. I used this code to successfully flash the mods...
Yes, I realized what I did wrong late last night. I totally flashed it with your calibration data. I tested just about everything and the only thing that wasn't very accurate was (go figure) dotless mode. I will do a little more research on going beyond 6200 counts with the 1106 chip and when I'm ready for that, I'll fix my calibration data. Can I see your before and after eeprom?
Hi Jay , that is My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969)
I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.
Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location in My Meter.
KB.
That's whats in the PDF Note attached to my last Post , before , after, and the changes ....for my Meter.... since I may have or want different backlight and auto off times too etc , but if you are fine with that then the Calibration Data is the only one you need to change.
There are also two or three threads on Modding the Uni-T 139C which has the older Chip too but lots of good info as well, the thread by FrozenFrogz was helpful for me for that Mod.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035)
KB
...Before EEPROM Dump...
...Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 39 01 09 D3 02 0B 58 14 0A DE 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
DE 78 B4 73 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 48 7E 01 00 FE 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
97 80 00 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 3D 02 D4 03 51 05
44 02 E4 03 6C 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00
...Flashing EEPROM...
...After EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 10 27 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
10 27 0F 27 D4 03 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 39 01 09 D3 02 0B 58 14 0A DE 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
DE 78 B4 73 00 80 DE 78 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 48 7E 01 00 FE 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
97 80 00 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1C 00 00 00 18 1E 1A 03 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1D 00 00 00 19 02 1B 04 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 00 1D 00 05 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 00 00 00 06 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 3D 02 D4 03 51 05
44 02 E4 03 6C 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 1E B4 80 00 00
Hi , great !.... glad I could help a bit with your Mod , my guess is you know know more than I do :)
especially about the 1106 Chip.....
make 10,000 count <<< only DM1106 chip, will fuck AC readings on DTM0660 chip
10 = 10 (normally 70) default count:6000??? 2000>10000
11 = 27 (normally 17)
12 = d8 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>10200
13 = 27 (normally 08)
14 = d4 (normally be) lower switch point 190>980
15 = 03 (normally 00)
12 = d8 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>10200
13 = 27 (normally 08)I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.
So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.
Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?
I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.
So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.
Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?
yes, you need to set the upper limit to 9999. I've set my lower limit to 980.
I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.
So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.
Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?
The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on. This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle. I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.
I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.
So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.
Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?
The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on. This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle. I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.
Typically you can't do that for automotive stuff. By pulling power every module goes through a hard reset and if there is some issue where a module eventually stops going to sleep it'll then look like there is no issue. You really need to get a clamp that can read mA accurately without disturbing the vehicle.
I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.
So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.
Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?
The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on. This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle. I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.
Typically you can't do that for automotive stuff. By pulling power every module goes through a hard reset and if there is some issue where a module eventually stops going to sleep it'll then look like there is no issue. You really need to get a clamp that can read mA accurately without disturbing the vehicle.
How much precision is needed for automotive use? At low currents it must be difficult to exclude the effect of the Earth's magnetic field.
Edit: do much smaller jaws help at low current?
Okay Folks, I compiled a final version of the arduino code. It's compatible with BOTH 0660 and 1106 chips! As the code is, it will only work for the newer 1106 chip, you MUST uncomment and comment out certain lines for it to work with the older 0660 based models(notes in the code itself on how to do this). Also remember to replace the calibration data from YOUR dump. Otherwise you will have my calibration data.
You can copy/paste directly into IDE from here https://ghostbin.com/paste/6akt4
..or you can download the attached file.
This file does just about every mod to the meter. Simply comment/delete out what you don't want to use.
It would be good if someone could give it a once over for accuracy.
Also remember to replace the calibration data from YOUR dump. Otherwise you will have my calibration data.
I would have thought an accuracy of a few dozen amps was enough to troubleshoot a car.
Also remember to replace the calibration data from YOUR dump. Otherwise you will have my calibration data.
Suggestion: change the code that set 0x56 and 0x57 as follows so that they copy direct from 0x50 & 0x51, rather than using hardcoded values.
//Dotless mode calibration data, copied from 0x50, 0x51
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x56, readByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x50));
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x57, readByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x51));
I wonder if any other bytes can be examined to determine the chipset to selectively run the 0660/1106 specific code?
I haven't yet opened up any of my 3 units to do this or see what chips I have... but soon!
//Dotless mode calibration data, copied from 0x50, 0x51
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x56, readByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x50));
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x57, readByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x51));
Milliamps, I meant milliamps!I would have thought an accuracy of a few dozen amps was enough to troubleshoot a car.
Well, you learn something new everyday.
Also did the eeprom mods to my ut210e.
6200 Counts works fine, the lower switch point must be changed too as mentioned before. Some interesting stuff in the datasheet.
0x14 -> 0x44
0x15 -> 0x02
I hoped to add Hz measurements to some functions, but this must be set using hardware links i think.
The most interesting thing is the ncv function. I added AC and DC mV measurements. The DC function is not very practical, but you can measure strong static fields. Very interesting.
0x9C -> 0x02 for AC mV ncv
0xAC -> 0x01 for DC mV ncv
The AC mV Function mentioned in the original post is awesome to locate cables and noise sources. Much better than the old 4 bar ncv function :)
You can add up to 4 measurements per function. But sadly not a Hz or Duty Cycle measurement directly via eeprom settings. If someone has any idea if it might be possible anyways let me know.
Is there a good way to tell which chipset you have if there are no markings on the chip?
I got interested in these clamps a little over a year ago, and went ahead and bought one in either May or June of 2017. It was shortly after that that I started seeing posts about the new chipset, so its possible it could be either. I had bought it with the idea of hacking it for fun/learning, but never got around to opening it up until a few days ago. I had tried shining different lights at different angles, with and without magnification, with and without spit, but I just can't see any markings on the chip. It doesn't look rubbed/scratched off, I just don't see anything on it. I applied the non-chipset specific modifications with no issues, and was thinking maybe a way to tell would be to try to apply the chipset specific ones and see which worked, but wasn't sure if doing this could cause any issues (probably not, but figured better to ask before trying).
no, both chips are 10,000 count, but the 0660 AC RMS calculations fail after about 7000 counts - the 1106 chip this was fixed/improved.
every function other than AC-volts can run at 10,000 on either chip.
the 0660 is always true-rms, it's an internal function of the chip.
no, both chips are 10,000 count, but the 0660 AC RMS calculations fail after about 7000 counts - the 1106 chip this was fixed/improved.
every function other than AC-volts can run at 10,000 on either chip.
no, both chips are 10,000 count, but the 0660 AC RMS calculations fail after about 7000 counts - the 1106 chip this was fixed/improved.
every function other than AC-volts can run at 10,000 on either chip.
What if I have a meter that is the older chip but not TRMS, can I just jack it up to 10,000 count?
For example, this meter http://a.co/blshU3d (http://a.co/blshU3d)
I've recently flashed it with some of the mods but stopped at 8000 count because of the AC readings bug, I didn't even realize it only affected TRMS AC readings.
no, both chips are 10,000 count, but the 0660 AC RMS calculations fail after about 7000 counts - the 1106 chip this was fixed/improved.
every function other than AC-volts can run at 10,000 on either chip.
What if I have a meter that is the older chip but not TRMS, can I just jack it up to 10,000 count?
For example, this meter http://a.co/blshU3d (http://a.co/blshU3d)
I've recently flashed it with some of the mods but stopped at 8000 count because of the AC readings bug, I didn't even realize it only affected TRMS AC readings.
That Meter looks similar to the Uni-T 139C I have , which also has the 0660 Chip , I think you have probably done everything I already did but this is the Thread for that one and my .ino
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035)
PS what is the Voltage regulator you are using in some of you Pics ? or did you make it ?
KB
PS what is the Voltage regulator you are using in some of you Pics ? or did you make it ?
KB
Which chipset do you have in your 210E?
Does anyone know (or could measure) the value of the resistor R7 (where we get the current signal to the analog output)? I think I damaged the resistor and it does not pick up solder. |O |O :palm:470 ohm
I could not calibrate mine using this method. It says error 0 at the end. If i press select button while its calibrating it goes to volts option and volts start changing randomly. Kindly help me reset the calibration
have you actually read the chip datasheet??
you need voltage and current references of a specific value!
Backlight only works down to about 2.6V where it is fairly dim.
Meter works down to 1.7V where meter turns off, battery symbol show at 2.5V.
Backlight fades with falling voltage, but works down to meter turns off
I run into problems flashing the chip.
I followed instructions from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX-Fhq9R4uY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX-Fhq9R4uY)
got a programmer, test clip, reading of data was ok and was exactly the same the examples.
When trying to flash there was a message " chip main memory with the contents are in disagreement"
Software version used was 1.29 on Windows 10.
I tried different other older and newer software versions without success.
erasing and verifying even without test clip attached gives the same positive feedback.
I assume test clip should be ok, as reading was without problems.
There are rumors that 1,29 could not write, but other software versions did not help.
Any ideas?
edit:
Solution: checked the continuity between the pins at the flasher and the pins at the PCB with attached test clip. Turns out test clip is crap. I had to push it directly to the PCB, otherwise it either looses contact on pin 4 GND or pin 7 WP.
Does anyone has a link to better test clip available?
Did you make sure you don't have the older chip? It can't do 10000 count. Before and after dumps would help us determine if anything is wrong.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
actually it can do 10,000 count - just not in AC volts - the true-RMS function cant handle it above 7,000 counts.
Did you make sure you don't have the older chip? It can't do 10000 count. Before and after dumps would help us determine if anything is wrong.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
I got it fixed :phew:
My configuration had somehow gotten completely messed up, luckily I backed it up beforehand.
This is what the dump looked like when it didn't work yesterday, compared to my backup: https://pastebin.com/qx7DVERZ (https://pastebin.com/qx7DVERZ)
I didn't know how I could upload the entire backup.hex so I had to write it byte by byte in the arduino ide, like this: :horse:
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x10, (byte) 0x70);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x11, (byte) 0x17);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x12, (byte) 0x98);
...
I bought my UT210E a few weeks ago, because in its stock configuration it already seemed like a tremendous deal. But I was annoyed by the default AC selection behavior, so I went looking for a simple solution... and stumbled upon this diamond encrusted goldmine instead.
First I considered using the solder-less method with the clamp and EEPROM programmer, but since I'm cheap and impatient, and had an Arduino on my desk anyway, I decided to go with the Arduino approach. And since -- in addition to my wonderful character traits above -- I'm also lazy, I just broke off five precision pin headers, rammed them haphazardly into the through holes on the meter's board and stuck proto board cables in them, while holding a sixth one to the cap on pin 55. Shockingly enough this super-ghetto approach worked, and somehow I even managed to avoid frying the meter with the loose cables. I'm happy to say that the mods have elevated my new toy to a whole different level...
Thanks to all the contributors for building up this wonderful resource!!!
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 F0 C3 03
10 17 38 18 44 02 6E 4B 64 3C 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
C7 97 C8 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
4E 02 09 D6 FD 08 5A 06 0B 9F 12 0A 10 07 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 74 04 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
4D 7D CC 6F 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
B1 7F 15 80 01 00 F1 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
83 81 00 80 76 82 E0 7C 08 07 00 00 00 00 00 00
FC 1C 01 98 18 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
F8 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
0D 00 02 10 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 20
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A C7 CE 0F 0F 40 00 00
kill backlight timeout
change location fc to 00 (normally 0f)
dc mode first:
make 2A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
87 = 16 (normally 17)
97 = 17 (normally 16)
make 20A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8b = 18 (normally 19)
9b = 19 (normally 18)
make 100A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8d = 1a (normally 1b)
9d = 1b (normally 1a)
make Vdc>Vac(with mv) instead of Vac>Vdc
8e = 05 (normally 04)
9e = 06 (normally 05)
there is no attachement.Now added, sorry
Hello !
I looking for modify firmware of UT210E (6000 counts, DC first, order of mode, timer of backlight, APO...).
What is difference between these CH341A programmer ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html)
Hello !
I looking for modify firmware of UT210E (6000 counts, DC first, order of mode, timer of backlight, APO...).
What is difference between these CH341A programmer ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SOIC8-SOP8-Test-Clip-For-EEPROM-93CXX-25CXX-24CXX-CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS/32898599200.html)
Why not just use an arduino?
no difference, the more expensive option has an extra cable adapter.Thank's ! :-+
Why not just use an arduino?
because it's an expensive pain in the ass, and you still need to buy an smd socket or clip.
why not use the correct tool for the job??
I got my meter in the mail today, however, I should really have bought it from a reputable source and not from banggood.
The clamp doesn't work in any range, ac nor dc, so I'm now waiting for a response from customer support. I took a peek inside, to see if there's an obvious fault. Well, the whole row of capacitors along the side of the board is missing. As in, they were never there. ;D
the caps are related to the lcd drive,Makes sense.
maybe to supress noise from the scanning - they may have changed the display
I asked both commandtab to merge plumbum's fixes (https://github.com/commandtab/ch341eeprom/pull/7#issuecomment-473652918) and the AUR maintainer to switch to plumbum's version (https://aur.archlinux.org/packages/ch341eeprom-git#comment-685678). As a quick fix until either of these happen I made a modified version of the AUR package which uses plumbum's version (https://github.com/thierer/ch341eeprom-git/tree/master).
On and off over the past few weeks I've been playing with the UT210E, and have just cleaned up and published my notes on the thing.Thank's for your work ! :-+
https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E
This doc is the result of explorations into modding the Uni-T UT210E Clamp Meter; it's what I'd wish I'd had before wading through pages and pages of forum posts and datasheets, all in at least three languages. It includes an example of modifying a UT210E using a Bus Pirate.
Ben
100A to 1000A
It is possible disable beep sound when changing mode ?
Make μF default range for capacitance ?
El Coyote are making quick experiment to 400A.Quote100A to 1000A
Hmm...makes it any sense except you can set it to...
I mean DMM display capacitance measurement only in μF.It is possible disable beep sound when changing mode ?
Make μF default range for capacitance ?
stop the beep? no.
set the range switch to start with capacitance before resistance/diode - yes.
My UT210E's current measurement are way off (around 300mA on 20A range and 150mA on 2A range) after I did the calibration (by pressing blue and yellow buttons while turning on the meter) .I did realize that I shouldn't have done that after reading the whole thread :(. Is the calibration is the main reason that gives the inaccurate reading.I did clean the contacts of the selector wheel but the readings are same.
could somebody help me out whats wrong?
here is my eeprom data
Have you tried the zero button?
Have you demagnetised it?
When testing, are there any other magnets near by?
Are there any large ferrous object near by?
My UT210E's current measurement are way off (around 300mA on 20A range and 150mA on 2A range) after I did the calibration (by pressing blue and yellow buttons while turning on the meter) .I did realize that I shouldn't have done that after reading the whole thread :(. Is the calibration is the main reason that gives the inaccurate reading.
VFC mode engages a low-pass filter for use when measuring variable frequency drives. Hold the Select button for 2 seconds to enable it.
My UT210E's current measurement are way off (around 300mA on 20A range and 150mA on 2A range) after I did the calibration (by pressing blue and yellow buttons while turning on the meter) .I did realize that I shouldn't have done that after reading the whole thread :(. Is the calibration is the main reason that gives the inaccurate reading.I did clean the contacts of the selector wheel but the readings are same.
could somebody help me out whats wrong?
here is my eeprom data
I hacked UT210E DM1106EN multimeter.
I set :
9999 counts
2A ACA / DCA / ACA dotless / DCA dotless
Hello,I hacked UT210E DM1106EN multimeter.
I set :
9999 counts
2A ACA / DCA / ACA dotless / DCA dotless
Is it possible to get 9999mA range instead 2A?
Is it possible to get 9999mA range instead 2A?
Hello,
Yes, you can mesure 9.999A on 2A range. But DMM set in 2200 counts when zeroing, dotless mod fix this.[/list]
The suggested 9.999A range with "dotless mod" is showing reading in mA. Limits are +-9999mA.
Is it possible to get 9999mA range instead 2A?
Hello,
Yes, you can mesure 9.999A on 2A range. But DMM set in 2200 counts when zeroing, dotless mod fix this.[/list]
No. I mean 9999mA! You misunderstood me
The suggested 9.999A range with "dotless mod" is showing reading in mA. Limits are +-9999mA.
Is it possible to get 9999mA range instead 2A?
Hello,
Yes, you can mesure 9.999A on 2A range. But DMM set in 2200 counts when zeroing, dotless mod fix this.[/list]
No. I mean 9999mA! You misunderstood me
If this isn't what you mean, please clarify what you want. What is the difference between this solution and your requirement?
Given this uses a hall-effect magnetic sensor for current measurement, it's probably basically impossible to kill it with excessive current
I recently picked up a Uni-T UT210E clamp meter. It's an interesting device for electronics use, since its clamp can measure DC current, it has a 2A range which gives you 1 mA resolution, and it only costs 35 USD.@RavenManiac I do not understand your question.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/?action=dlattach;attach=121226;image)
Are all UT210E's the same? (i.e. same internal components) I see that Amazon U.S. has a few different suppliers and manufacturers of these meters, some with better availability than others. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UT210E&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UT210E&ref=nb_sb_noss_2)
Also, I'm assuming that a lot of the UT210E's are simply rebrands. Which manufacturer is the primary brand? Also, need I be concerned about fakes?
Thanks!
Try to buy from one Fullfilled by Amazon so you don't need to wait for it from HongKong or further a field and can return easily if not the real deal. plenty of PCB pics etc here to compare too etc.
Does anyone have a good way to demagnetize the sensor? Was thinking of 3D printing a drill insert with 4 alternating magnets.
Unfortunately I have never seen a tape eraser in my life, not that I remember.
Hi Joe, I bought the UT210E based on your videos :) Unfortunately I have never seen a tape eraser in my life, not that I remember.
RoGeorge: I gave all those chunky soldering irons away a long time ago :)
I'm 3d printing right now a 1/4" toolbit insert with 4 slots for 5x1.75mm magnets, hopefully this will do the trick.
How is the UT-210E able to be used to capture data at higher frequencies, say for capturing control loop signals? How fast can it capture signals?
I've ordered the Amazon demagnetizer - from a direct overseas reseller, it will take 1 month to get to me but it's not that critical.
I've designed and 3d printed this part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4524771 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4524771) - which I've used on the meter. It took a bit of practice on a magnetized screwdriver to get it to work. I've then adjusted the trimpot on the back. Not sure in which order it should be done, bur now I get about 100mA variation depending on meter orientation while it was only ~20mA a few months ago. I don't think the Earth has changed that much since then. That means, I get -60mA in one orientation and up to +60 or even 100mA on other orientations.
For relative measurements it's perfectly fine, but the annoying thing is that I always have to subtract that offset mentally. As soon as I zero the meter using the button, I lose the 6000 count and it reverts to 2000 counts with the "O.L." display. But it's a minor issue.
I've also slowly nulled out the meter using a magnet but was looking for something more reliable. I might resort to the transformer trick if the newly ordered demagnetizer doesn't do the job.
For other people, please see my post above about decreasing the continuity latency, it really improved on the meter's usabilitu.
I've modified the firmware on the meter, one of the improvements is now that it reads up to 6000 on the 2A scale, so up to 6A. This means the milliamp resolution is kept up to 6A. Not sure how linear the response is, but I don't expect it to be unusable.
One of the limitations of the chipset is that, pressing the zero button "resets" the maximum to 2A. So you have to choose between having an absolute error and 6A range or a relative zero and 2A range.
I believe this limitation is baked into the ASIC, as there is no register to control it.
Hi,
I hope this isn't too far OT. I'm in Australia (Melb) and I'm looking to buy a UT210E. The local stores that I'm aware of either don't stock (A & J) or are out of stock until September (RP & Rockby). Does anyone know of a vendor with stock in the country before I order from the Uni-T Direct Shop Store on AliExpress? (My last order of one of these was from AliExpress and after AusPost lost it in their Dandenong processing facility I've had to wait over 100 days from order to refund.)
Thanks, Brian.
Nobody have answered my question about Ali scams. I'll take one for the team.
I've taken a risk and made an order with Aliexpress. Waiting shipping and hoping this isn't a scam.
Will report on how it all went.
Shved
<snip>
...is now selling these under the name Voltcraft VC-330.
Excuse my ignorance I'm but a simple spark. I am trying to understand a problem with the use of RCD's on 230VAC/400VAC supplies. Type AC RCD's do not work when DC current leaks in to the sensing coil, Type A RCD's can cope with <6mA DC current, Type F <10mA DC current and Type B can manage >10mA. This leakage current can come from various sources found in domestic and commercial properties Photovoltaic Systems, EV chargers etc. I bought this clamp meter thinking I could measure this low DC leakage current at the output of the RCD while the load was in place. I am now not sure whether I will get an accurate result when the load is drawing AC current and the leakage is DC current at the same time. :palm:
That said, it is worth noting that this meter isn't really suitable for measuring leakage currents as although it has 1mA resolution, the accuracy is +/-(2% + 8 counts) in DCA mode and +/-(3% + 10 counts) in ACA mode.
I have 3 UT210E and current measurement accuracy overall on these is pretty poor in my experience, even at currents of 100's of mA and with careful zeroing. A no-name clamp meter I bought on ebay years ago is way better. One day I might try adjusting them.
Seems odd you can't get a decent readings at 100's of mA. I would have pitched them or ran them on the transient generator.
So 2A scale, 200mA low? That's even worse. The very first post is more what I would have expected.Seems odd you can't get a decent readings at 100's of mA. I would have pitched them or ran them on the transient generator.
Yep, I never got around to checking further as I noticed the inconsistency and just stopped trusting them. I think all of mine read low by something near 10%.
Another thing I will put back on the TODO list - maybe something my new assistant technician can look at when he is out of assembly tasks.
Hi,
This is what the german ut210-e manual describes :
"Frequency measurement up to 60 kHz (V.F.C. = Voltage Frequency Conversion, e.g. for electronic
actuated drives)"
I have a question, not technical, but question nevertheless:I think the reason they don't respond is because they are likely brokers with no access to spare parts, nor any inclination for dealing in them. You can probably locate a cheap case online with adequate dimensions; that's what I'd do.
I've got a broken zip on the case(bag thing), how to fix it?
Aliexpress seller doesn't respond.
It would be interesting to know if the regular 210E could be fitted with the Pro firmware, so it could be able to also measure frequency ::)The UT-211B can measure frequencies, and measure mA in 6000 counts with dot. Maybe different hardware.
EDIT: Or the 210E be changed to do it. What's the Pro controller chip?
Recently there have been a few extremely cheap uni-t 210e's on ebay, for around $13.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT210E-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-Handheld-RMS-DC-AC-Mini-Resistanc/373344607659? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT210E-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-Handheld-RMS-DC-AC-Mini-Resistanc/373344607659?)
This seems absurdly cheap, considering that they are normally sold for more than $40. So I am wondering if any of you guys bought that meter and are experiencing any problems, or have a similar counterfeit meter
Is there a reply with "the best EEPROM" changes for this chip?
Hi folks.
I would like to share a method I discovered to calibrate without need to read and write the flash memory.
Sorry if it is not new fou you, but I searched for it and did not found the procedure explained like this.
1-Simply hold pressed the HOLD+SELECT buttons while you turn on the meter to the ohms/continuity/diode option (second position). Then release the buttons.
I am not sure if this wheel position is really mandatory, but it is described in some places as the correct method.
The meter will show "CAL" and will do some auto tests. You can abort this tests pressing select 2 times. If you let it run over, it will end the auto-tests after some minutes.
(note: after change the count config to reach 6200 counts the aut-test take much more time, then I gave up waiting).
2-Now put in the function/scale you want to calibrate (rotate the wheel and press select until you reach there), can be DCV for example.
I tested only for DCV (all ranges) and DCA (all ranges) but most probably it will work for others, like ohms and capacitance. The ACV seams to share the calibration of DCV. I did not tested ACA.
3- Now comes the main part (apparently undocumented). While you are in whatever function you chose before, you can calibrate the zero point by pressing the ZERO button (once per function/scale calibration procedure) and the gain by pressing the HOLD button (short press to decrease the reading and long press to increase the reading). However, to do so you need to feed the leads with a known integer value, once each press in HOLD will jump the reading to next integer above(long press) or below(short press). So, for example if you feed 12.00Vdc but you read 11.82Vdc, than long press HOLD while you are sure the correct voltage is 12.00Vdc and the meter will adjust the reading to 12.00Vdc (first integer above 11.8V).
-Therefore, each long press will jump the reading to next integer above, while the short press will make jump to the next integer below.
-Depending the scale you are the jump may not be an integer, however you will figure it out while doing the process.
-Pay attention to the scale you are. As DCV is autoscale you need to adjust when you are at 0.000, when you are 00.00 and when you are 000.0. You need to change the scale by changing your voltage source. The point in each range to calibrate is a personal choice. I noticed that the linearity is not so good, than I prefered to calibrate at 17.00Vdc the 60Vdc range once I will be reading values mainly from my battery bank between 12 and 24Vdc.
4-After the procedure for all functions and scales you are interested to calibrate just turn off the meter. In the next turn on the new calibration is used normally.
In the attachment you can see my flash content before(left) and after(right) calibration. Differences are highlighted. I calibrated DCV and DCA only (all ranges).
It seems that some different memory positions were changed compared to the documented positions (devydd post). My meter use the DTM0660 chip.
I just got a UT210E Pro (the one with the black clamps). the chip inside is the same DM1106EN as in the non pro version.Hi,
I attached the original bin file if anyone is curious.
I was able to modify this the same way as the original non pro version (10k count, start on DC, endless power on and backlight) by flashing it. I used a clamp programmer.
If anyone wants to look at the bin file I provided and compare it with an original from a non pro version, I'd be curious to see what the differences are :)
.... How modify for adding Frequency...
Hi everyone, I'm trying reading the content of the EEPROM on Linux using flashrom and I get the error "No EEPROM/flash device found".
I tried also on Windows 7 with CH314A Programmer (I followed this video (https://youtu.be/fX-Fhq9R4uY)), but is only reading "FFFFF". The programmer is connected and recognized.
I'm using this programmer from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=3011565481970335&productId=32793476447)
What could be the problem?
Thsinde 210E, seems an improved version.Very similar to BSIDE ACM91:
.... How modify for adding Frequency...
Mine has a 24C08 in it. So its 1024 Bytes instead of 256Bytes in a 24c02 used in the normal 210E.
There are some additional entries from 0x160 to 0x175 .(http:// (Attachment Link) )
Maybe ... ;)
Hi folks.Did anyone else verify this method? There are some docs and blogs suggesting NOT to do it. Why?
I would like to share a method I discovered to calibrate without need to read and write the flash memory.
Sorry if it is not new fou you, but I searched for it and did not found the procedure explained like this.
1-Simply hold pressed the HOLD+SELECT buttons while you turn on the meter to the ohms/continuity/diode option (second position). Then release the buttons.
I am not sure if this wheel position is really mandatory, but it is described in some places as the correct method.
The meter will show "CAL" and will do some auto tests. You can abort this tests pressing select 2 times. If you let it run over, it will end the auto-tests after some minutes.
(note: after change the count config to reach 6200 counts the aut-test take much more time, then I gave up waiting).
2-Now put in the function/scale you want to calibrate (rotate the wheel and press select until you reach there), can be DCV for example.
I tested only for DCV (all ranges) and DCA (all ranges) but most probably it will work for others, like ohms and capacitance. The ACV seams to share the calibration of DCV. I did not tested ACA.
3- Now comes the main part (apparently undocumented). While you are in whatever function you chose before, you can calibrate the zero point by pressing the ZERO button (once per function/scale calibration procedure) and the gain by pressing the HOLD button (short press to decrease the reading and long press to increase the reading). However, to do so you need to feed the leads with a known integer value, once each press in HOLD will jump the reading to next integer above(long press) or below(short press). So, for example if you feed 12.00Vdc but you read 11.82Vdc, than long press HOLD while you are sure the correct voltage is 12.00Vdc and the meter will adjust the reading to 12.00Vdc (first integer above 11.8V).
-Therefore, each long press will jump the reading to next integer above, while the short press will make jump to the next integer below.
-Depending the scale you are the jump may not be an integer, however you will figure it out while doing the process.
-Pay attention to the scale you are. As DCV is autoscale you need to adjust when you are at 0.000, when you are 00.00 and when you are 000.0. You need to change the scale by changing your voltage source. The point in each range to calibrate is a personal choice. I noticed that the linearity is not so good, than I prefered to calibrate at 17.00Vdc the 60Vdc range once I will be reading values mainly from my battery bank between 12 and 24Vdc.
4-After the procedure for all functions and scales you are interested to calibrate just turn off the meter. In the next turn on the new calibration is used normally.
In the attachment you can see my flash content before(left) and after(right) calibration. Differences are highlighted. I calibrated DCV and DCA only (all ranges).
It seems that some different memory positions were changed compared to the documented positions (devydd post). My meter use the DTM0660 chip.
What's its minimum detectable AC value? I mean the value based on your real experiences, not based on specs, better if in comparison with other more accurate instruments/gauges to see how "effective" is its lowest detected value :)
so we can answer the question: can this clamp measure down to 8-10mA in those domestic conditions with enough reliability?
we know the conditions: 50-60Hz, 220-230V AC (here in Italy) and a 1.5mm (= 0,059 in) diameter ground wire "many" meters (don't know) long. So could you please test this clamp on 2A scale in these conditions and tell me what's its minimum and "reliable enough" detectable AC value?
I mean it'd be fantastic if you could compare its minimum value with a more reliable tool (eg. fluke)
The PSG9080 only allows the output set in Vpp
As shown by the results of radiolistener's tests the readout of the UT210E at low AC currents is pretty ordinary (i.e. useless)I've heard quite different opinions about this ut210e: someone says it's able to measure down to 10mA, someone else says it's not. Look at the pic in my attachment taken from another forum and posted by a final ut210e user. The forumers say: 1) this clamp is not reliable enough measuring only one lead on 2A scale; 2) if looping the wire 10 times this clamp measures 20 times the real value. Consider that I asked them if this clamp will be good enough for my specific goal in my scenario. Maybe that user/forumer/buyer was just unlucky and got a "defective" ut210e?
1) this clamp is not reliable enough measuring only one lead on 2A scale; 2) if looping the wire 10 times this clamp measures 20 times the real value. Consider that I asked them if this clamp will be good enough for my specific goal in my scenario. Maybe that user/forumer/buyer was just unlucky and got a "defective" ut210e?
I've just tested mine on AC current and it is completely off the scale. Another series DMM measures 137mA AC, while the UT210E shows zero A on AC.
If you want to detect 5 mA, UT210E can do it.Aren't these statements in contradiction? Can you explain me please?
Aren't these statements in contradiction? Can you explain me please?
Aren't these statements in contradiction? Can you explain me please?
It can detect 5mA when its clamp is de-magnetized.
Demagnetized -> great sensitive clamp, that on DC can even sense the Earth magnetic field.
maybe I have a different version (the plastic on the clamp is red on mine, yours seems to be black plastic in the photo).
Apparently it self-magnetizes by itself.
Can you tell what offset (in DC Amps) your UT210E Pro displays before pressing zero on the DC 2A current range, and no wires, please?
-0.014 ... -0.070 Amps [DC] depends on orientation in the space
I demagnetized it last time about 2 or 3 months ago :)
I recorded video of process of resetting to zero of the current indications in the DC mode at UT210E. This method allows to reduce residual indications in the mode of measurement of a direct current (DC 2A Dotless, 2A,20A,100A) without the need for EEPROM correction without the programmator. Thanks of kDnZP from a Russian-speaking forum!
ATTENTION! To do only if there is a backup copy of EEPROM!
1. To switch off device.
2. To clamp HOLD+SELECT and to switch to the "resistance, ring-up, diode, condenser" mode.
3. To see a text of "CAL", to release the HOLD+SELECT buttons
4. To wait. To wait long and not to hurry. To wait so far there will pass all self-tests until squeaks, then still to wait and wait for the moment when there are changing indications of the millivoltmeter. I.e. when the self-test will be completely passable, it will take ~ 2-3 minutes.
5. Further it is possible to switch the selector on 20A, to press the ZERO button and to nullify indications. At the same time the instrument in hand not to hold, give time for that that indications calmed down, to place the instrument where least of all el./magn. noises and the more so far away from magnets.
6. To switch the selector on 2A and to repeat the same as in point 5.
7. If necessary it is possible to modify values on other interesting ranges
8. On the end of calibration - to transfer the selector to "OFF"
9. To switch on ut201e and to check indications, if necessary - to repeat.
The link to video which explains this process.
https://yadi.sk/i/bu8eS8uF3ZfK3E
Can you tell what offset (in DC Amps) your UT210E Pro displays before pressing zero on the DC 2A current range, and no wires, please?
So it seems that I have a contact problem with the selector switch. Did not use the meter too much, almost no sign of wear on the traces. Cleaned up the grease a bit, which made it a bit better, but not really perefect. Is any kind of proven method aviable to solve this? Not much info on this forum about this, so maybe I am the only one affected?
Would be nice to know whether new meters come with or without grease.Just got one. I see some sort of grease. See pic.
Also would be nice to know if the new ones got fast protection diodes, becose these old ones don't seem to have it, so it might wouldnt survive the grillstarter. Not sure about the other generators though.Ha! Hadn't read this far when I had mine open. Can't be arsed opening it again, sorry.
On the other hand: DC amp in the lower ranges are quiet good but it is linearly getting worse as I am measuring higher amps with like hundreds of mA off at the end of 20 Amp range.Odd. Mine actually measures low in the sub 200ma range.
DC offset is 85mA, so I don't think that it is the root cause.Pressing the "Zero" button should get rid of any offset. Offset could be due to magnetized jaws or a prevalent magnetic field in your area. Does changing the orientation of the meter change the offset?
On the other hand: DC amp in the lower ranges are quiet good but it is linearly getting worse as I am measuring higher amps with like hundreds of mA off at the end of 20 Amp range.Odd. Mine actually measures low in the sub 200ma range.DC offset is 85mA, so I don't think that it is the root cause.Pressing the "Zero" button should get rid of any offset. Offset could be due to magnetized jaws or a prevalent magnetic field in your area. Does changing the orientation of the meter change the offset?
Could that be the reason, why Joe was not able to get it to an even higher frequency? How is that made with higher bandwith current scope probes?
Hi everybody.
Have a clamps UT213C, very similar in schematic with UT210.
By negligence, was measured the voltage on a high-current capacitor in a microwave. The device immediately passed out and does not turn on anymore, in all modes it writes "ErrE", if you press SELECT, then in all (except A) it writes "----".
There are no obvious burned-out elements on the board.
The first thing that came to my mind was the varistors at the input and the posistors, soldered the new varistors - it didn’t help, replaced the posistors (although when measured -+ it matches the nominal value of 15kOhm) with a resistance of 15kOhm, it also didn’t help, the protective resistor at the input, according to the measurement, matches the marking ...
I removed the EEPROM, the data is being read, but I tried to write others, when I read it again, it writes again as it was before... (maybe it's the case?)
Where to dig further, tell me, please. :-//
What do you think the voltage was about what you tried to measure?I think approx 2kV.
Are the V sense input pins of the micro a dead short or what is the resistance?
I mean the microcontrollers pins directly after the MOVs and PTC's. But actually what you just measured is also strange, as in voltage mode the resistance should be around 10 Mega Ohm.Ouh, can you tell me the pin on micro?
And of course I suppose the micro is the same as in the ut210-e.
I don't have your meter, but if you follow the trace through the protection devices you will end up at the input pins of the microcontroller where it senses the voltage. If it is zapped I suppose some change of its input resistance there.(I can check it on mine a bit later) IF it is the same micro but I suppose it is. What's written on it?Micro is same DTM0660.
So did you measure it?Still not, I don't know what number of the pin...
Try between 48-40-39. Do you see dead short or open circuit?between 48-39 is 4,64MOhm, 40 is free on pcb....between 48-40 is 4.79MOhm.
But it seems that the amps range is working properly as you mentioned. Is it so?NO. A - and ~ don't working too, some times writes "ErrE" or "----"..
There could be small transistors as well, and one of the legs of your ptc looks also strange.Yes, but I tryed to replase it on resistors of 15kOhm - NO results.
Amps range is working sometimes, but sometimes not?Doesn't work at all.
You could also check the traces of the switch.Looks like is good.
And maybe trying the calibration method with the buttons, which also does some self test.Calibration method with the buttons don't work. I tried it.. Nothing happens at all when the buttons are pressed...
Interesting that it seems you didn't even find any damaged components.Yes, very strange...
With a fully charged? big capacitor I would have expected some burn marks.I thought too.
Or was the PTC leg damaged in the accident?I think it happened during the installation process on the board...And as I told I tried to replace it on resistors of 15 Ohm - NO results. :-//
I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.
I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.
Ah yes you may be right.I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.
I interpreted "read it correctly" as after removing the memory chip from the meter elman got a non-zeros reading.
New opamp in my UT210E, GS8334.