ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14.

[hostname]

Hi, does anyone knows the differences between the an8001 an8002 and an8004? Spec looks the same, but price is diffedifferent... An8004 cheapest and an8001 highest... Thanks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122287079095?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=422773937425&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[hostname]

Thanks....

[sleemanj]

Has anybody come across a supply of the miniature 3.6mm fuses that the 101/102/8001/8002 variants of these meters seem to all use?  The only ones I seem to find are axial leaded fuses.  I guess one could snip off the leads, but feels a bit of a hack.

[BroMarduk]

Has anybody come across a supply of the miniature 3.6mm fuses that the 101/102/8001/8002 variants of these meters seem to all use?  The only ones I seem to find are axial leaded fuses.  I guess one could snip off the leads, but feels a bit of a hack.

If you look closely at the fuses, it looks like there is a small dot on each end where the lead was or would have been, so I don't think snipping the lead will be a problem.   I replaced with a Littlefuse from Mouser, part number 576-0874.500MXEP http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0874.500MXEPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-0874.500MXEP for the 500mA one (part number 576-0874010.MXEP for the 10A one) and with the leads snipped off, it works like the original.

That said, if you or anyone finds a source of cheap 3.6x10mm 250VAC 500mA/10A fast blow ceramic fuses elsewhere, I'd be interested.

[MBY]

Most sources claims that the AN8001 and AN8002 has µA-ranges, but pictures show only mA-range and my two AN8001 certainly only have the ranges 60/600 mA and 6/10A. My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is? Because, as an electronics meter, only a 60.00 mA-range is a showstopper, and we already know that fuses and input protection, while not totally bad and lacking, is a showstopper for an electrician uses.

One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons.

[BroMarduk]

The AN8004 has the uA range, but is only 2000 count and has no temp and no mV.   It's usually the cheapest of the set.

Aneng AN8000/Zotek ZT100 - 4000 Count/mV/mA
Aneng AN8001/Zotek ZT101 - 6000 Count/mV/mA
Aneng AN8002/Zotek ZT102 - 6000 Count/mV/mA/Temp
Aneng AN8004/Zotek ZT98   - 2000 Count/mA/uA

(Also under Richmeters and Kasuntest brands)

[sleemanj]

My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is?
One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons.

You are correct, there are only A and mA range selections and the minimum scale in the mA range is 60mA, so the best you can measure is down to 10uA, ignoring error.

It's a bit of a shame, just a few tweaks here and there would make it a much better meter still fitting into that small size, add a uA range, use 5x20 fuses at a minimum, expose the Min/Max and Manual ranging functionality.

[BroMarduk]

My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is?
One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons.

It's a bit of a shame, just a few tweaks here and there would make it a much better meter still fitting into that small size, add a uA range, use 5x20 fuses at a minimum, expose the Min/Max and Manual ranging functionality.

That is pretty much the general consensus I have been hearing on this (AN8002/ZT102) variant that with a few tweaks you would have a much better product worth charging a few dollars more and focused on electronics work.   In addition to the items mentioned above, the input jacks sometimes make a snapping sound when removing leads and could use some improvements - I don't expect them to last too long.   A longer backlight (or the ability to turn the auto light off feature) is on my list as well.   Better LCD contrast should be an easy fix.

Maybe someone will make a mid-range (relative) model that is more the size of the Fluke 107 instead of the 101 and use the space to add some buttons, fuses etc. or even improve the design of the already larger Aneng AN860B+.  You never know with China, since it seems to be about economies of scale most of the time.

[dseyst]

If you look at the back of the circuit board in an Aneng 8001, there is a range switch pad that actually works.

[Crumble]

To those who have not seen it yet, a video was made by joeqsmith about the AN8002, which is probably for a large part the same:


Consequently, I bought one as an extra, it often helps to have some extra monitoring of power rails and such. I guess as long as I don't use the thing on anything with a lot of energy I'd be ok. I think the worst thing this thing will see is an occational audio amp.

I think the µA range would require another place on the switch, because it will need another shunt. Right now I've got enough meters that can do µAs (I can't imagine me ever using more than 2 such meters simultaneously), so I'm satisfied with the 60mA range. It has shunt of about 1.3Ohm, so it won't upset most systems (78mV burden voltage).

I also did a few measurements with power consumption, and it seems to be only about 1,5mA (depending on range, but I only tried a few ranges). I'm running it on NiMH now, but this is troublesome because the backlight gets dimmer and you will not be able to light most LEDs anymore. It does send out 1,5mA in the diode check, which might be a lot.

edit: The automatic power off option does work, but the unit keeps on bleeping if you activate it, which I consider to be quite annoying. Sometimes I'm just doing measuring with a few meters while tweaking working on a schematic and I just want it to display whatever it is set to QUIETLY until told to do otherwise. Especially because I have a Gossen meter that beeps when an overcurrent (and probably overvoltage too, haven't tried 600V yet) occurs.

[necessaryevil]

Hmmm, the only thing genuine about that 600V Cat III rating is the ink it's printed with. 

It's fine to sell a cheap multimeter for low voltage, low energy use, what's wrong is to deliberately lie about it's safety rating.

What's even worse is that some of the better brands which you can buy in local shops do some lying too. OK, I have to mention the fact that those are mostly minor violations (e.g. 250v fuses in a device with a 500V CAT rating)

What I don't get is that the DT102 manual mentions that the current input is only for low voltage input. What does that mean?
 
I agree, they shouldn't print the CAT rating on the multimeter. That being said, the ZT102 is a fun meter!  I bought it to play with and because of the temperature converter which I bought for my Fluke 87 III isn't that accurate. It is an old type thermocouple converter, based on discrete parts, it's accuracy is only +- 5 deg C (it is probably meant for measuring high temperatures).

[Crumble]

Ok small update: I had previously suggested the max voltage you could detect in diode check mode was limited by using NiMH batteries due to their lower voltage. It however seems to contain a charge pump or so making it possible to measure LEDs up to ~2,96V (2x red LED) while its supply voltage was about 2,55V. The light from the LEDs drops quite noticably while doing so, so the current is probably in the low uAs, but it does display the value.

[sleemanj]

I bought two PM18C and two HP-890CN last week.

PM18A seems to be maybe a fairly new auto ranging version of the 18C - NCV, Freq, Temp, Capacitance, uA range, and 6000 count.

Don't know how long this has existed for but there seems to be only Peakmeter themselves on Aliexpress selling it, nothing much on google.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PEAKMETER-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-PM18A-with-True-RMS-AC-DC-Voltage-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency-Temperature-NCV/32817940143.html

[crazyguy]

I bought two PM18C and two HP-890CN last week.

PM18A seems to be maybe a fairly new auto ranging version of the 18C - NCV, Freq, Temp, Capacitance, uA range, and 6000 count.

Don't know how long this has existed for but there seems to be only Peakmeter themselves on Aliexpress selling it, nothing much on google.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PEAKMETER-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-PM18A-with-True-RMS-AC-DC-Voltage-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency-Temperature-NCV/32817940143.html

PM18A should be a new model. I cannot found this model on their website or taobao store.

PeakMeter DMM
http://www.peak-meter.com/product/6/p1

[colorado.rob]

Don't know how long this has existed for but there seems to be only Peakmeter themselves on Aliexpress selling it, nothing much on google.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PEAKMETER-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-PM18A-with-True-RMS-AC-DC-Voltage-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency-Temperature-NCV/32817940143.html

I think I'm more impressed by the silicone test probes they are selling for under $7.  I'd love to know if they are any good and hold up to their CAT rating.

[Crumble]

[...]
I think I'm more impressed by the silicone test probes they are selling for under $7. I'd love to know if they are any good and hold up to their CAT rating.

That is interesting indeed, especially when they actually are ~70mOhm as they very obviously show on one of the pictures.

[Fungus]

I think I'm more impressed by the silicone test probes they are selling for under $7.  I'd love to know if they are any good and hold up to their CAT rating.

I bought some of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252361778216

I was so impressed I bought some more after they arrived.

[Crumble]

Ordering one now! I do not own a Fluke, but they seem to be a pretty good match for my Gossen Metrawatt Metrahit One.

[ModemHead]

I think I'm more impressed by the silicone test probes they are selling for under $7.  I'd love to know if they are any good and hold up to their CAT rating.

When those oddly-cheap "Fluke TL71" probes started appearing I bought a set from eBay to see what they were like.  The black one had a serious defect, it looked as if the tip had been chopped off with cutters.  The material the probe handles are made of feels oddly soft and "plastic-y" compared to a much older pair I have that came with a Fluke 289.  The wires and plugs seem okay.  The wire insulation is a bit slicker and less rubbery than the old set, but it does not melt with a 300C iron.  The new set and the old set measure 62 and 65 mOhms, respectively, so I have no reason to suspect the copper and the connections.  But the tips are definitely nothing special.

Does Fluke have anything to do with the manufacturing of these leads, or did the Chinese just start counterfeiting them?  I don't know.  But test leads labeled "Fluke" are all a bit suspect nowadays in my opinion.

[WhichEnt2]

The new set and the old set measure 62 and 65 mOhms, respectively, so I have no reason to suspect the copper and the connections. 

Thanks for sharing the measurement results.

About a week ago I measure one pair of $9.58 Fluke TL71 chinese test leads with XJW-01.
25 mOhm each with kelvin clips directly applied.

[ModemHead]

The new set and the old set measure 62 and 65 mOhms, respectively, so I have no reason to suspect the copper and the connections. 

Thanks for sharing the measurement results.

About a week ago I measure one pair of $9.58 Fluke TL71 chinese test leads with XJW-01.
25 mOhm with kelvin clips directly applied.

I guess I should note that my measurements were with an HP34401A in 2-wire mode, both leads together, with the tips securely shorted by two tip jacks joined with 12ga copper.

[WhichEnt2]

As far as I know any common methodic for measuring resistance of test leads is not exist.

[Fungus]

As far as I know any common methodic for measuring resistance of test leads is not exist.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

[WhichEnt2]

As far as I know any common methodic for measuring resistance of test leads is not exist.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

Do you have any links that may provide some information in a few steps above an entry level? Specific measurement procedures, for example.

[Fungus]

As far as I know any common methodic for measuring resistance of test leads is not exist.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

Do you have any links that may provide some information in a few steps above an entry level? Specific measurement procedures, for example.

It's just Ohm's Law.

You pass a current though the lead (eg. with a current-limited power supply) and simultaneously measure:
a) The voltage drop across the lead
b) The amps passing through it

You can do it with two handheld multimeters.

This measurement technique is the reason why we say "one multimeter isn't enough".

(well, one of the reasons we say that)